GlockSpock

Pictures!

Yeah...something does seem off. Supposedly it is cooler outside (somewhere between 69 and 75). Thermostat is set to 76. Currently showing 80 on the indoor temperature and is down from 82 or so from 1.5 hours ago. I never really payed attention to heating and cooling time with the other temperature because I typically left it at around 74 all the time. What is typical cooling time per degree in an 800sqft house? 1 degree per hour? 4 degrees?

Well...honestly one of my first thoughts was that the air didn't seem as cool. However, I chalked it up to be one of those things you don't really notice much about until you really start thinking about it. Besides the meter and les than scientific method of feeling the temperature...any other ways to check this?

Yeah...I have been told I do this by multiple people.

How?

  I don't believe Rh and Rc need a jumper. I'll take a photo tonight of the manual, it says if your old thermostat had a jumper not to worry about it, that an R wire can be plugged in to either and I suppose it just knows to take current from either. In fact, I'd bet that there is possibly a built in jumper between Rh and Rc, however that's just a guess and perhaps there isn't just in case sometimes you would not want that.   I'll look more into the gas heating and whatnot. So this upcoming winter, you think I'd benefit financially from having gas heat when it is quite cold outside? There is a setting to use W2/AUX whenever it drops below a set temperature set by you. I think the default is 30F.

Ok, I think I figured out that I have an O wire, or else it would be blowing warm air when cooling and cool are when warming. Correct?

Also, here is the way the Nest interprets the wires: And of course here is how it is actually wired:

Ok, I entered into the settings and setup the * to use it for the Emergency heat. I also found a setting that asks whether I have an O or a B wire. It states that the O wire is more common. I selected "I don't know". How do I find that out? And am I correct in figuring out that the W2/Aux controls the gas?

Well, it will be pretty hard to give an exact number, but I will attempt to update this thread with as many statistics as possible and then allow you to draw your own conclusion based upon those statistics. Ultimately, I believe it would be up to the user as to how much they save. I just programmed this schedule in via my computer, it's easy peasy! Everyday at 1AM, 82F, Everyday at 6:45, 78F, Everyday at 5PM, 78F. I think that perhaps that schedule means less that it should because of the auto away function. However, it's just a starting point and we'll see how it works. Honestly, the other thermostat was programmable but I never fooled with it because I never took the initiative to do so. Keep in mind that you are also paying quite a pretty penny for the fact that it was created by Mr. iPod Engineer. Now, it does indeed look great and turning the dial to set the temperature and other things make you feel like you are turning the dial on a high end safe. I for one love the idea of the mobile app because it will allow for me to keep the house a bit more efficient whenever I am not home but also allow me to set that comfort level if I know I am going to get home early. So we'll see. There is a lot of information available on their website. They claim an average savings of 19.5%. If I reached that, I'd be more than thrilled. Claiming the highest reported savings at 36.1%. Honestly, 10% savings would save me around $15 a month, so a year and a half it'd pay for itself. Considering that I wanted the Nest also for the "smart" features, I'll consider payoff a bit earlier. If it goes above 10% energy savings, that's even better. I will try and get a spreadsheet of energy usage per month over the previous year and then start comparing it to once I installed the Nest. Hard to say, but I'll see what I can come up with.

Here is a snap of the manual: (Emphasis added my me) The * is, I suppose, a multi-use input by which it is accepting my "E" wire. So does that mean, I suppose, that the only other possible issue is the possibility of a needed jumper? I think I remember reading somewhere that either jumpers are not needed or not supported. I am looking for that right now. EDIT: Found it. Documentation suggests that an R wire can go into either Rc or Rh, and Nest does not need a jumper between the two. So what are your updated thoughts and input?

Another one being another Nest or another thermostat altogether? Also, what sort of issues were you having? Like I said...it hear and cools when I ask it to, maybe I am jus overthinking it but it seems odd. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

I decided to replace my older "Dico" thermostat with the "Nest" Thermostat. It's designed by one of the designers of the original iPod. It is pretty cool, integrates with mobile apps, etc. Supposedly super easy installation, which is was, however I always seem to be the one whom has a complicated setup when most people seem to have a simple one. Let me first state that it may be a dual fuel system, meaning gas or heat pump. However, we do not have the gas connected. It also *may simply mean that it is a heat pump and auxiliary/emergency heat. I do not know much about HVAC, a buddy of mine knows quite a bit, we think we wired it correctly. It does spit out cool air when cooling, and it does spit out warm air when warming, so it is working. However, and perhaps it is simply because I am messing with it more and thinking about it constantly, but it *seems I've noticed the following: Takes longer to cool Perhaps the sensor is off a few degrees I am going to get another thermometer to verify the heat sensor to see how accurate it is. And as far as taking longer to cool, perhaps not, but I just seem to think that. Anyways, here is the reason for this thread. Here is the wiring: Here was the wiring setup in my old thermostat: Here is the wiring for the Nest 2.0: Here is how the Nest 2.0 *thinks it is wired: What do you all think?

It's just all for show, nothing more. Of course you all know this. When you or I picture the weapons he is talking about blocking the importation of, we know they look like this: However, most of the people that are supporting Obama and generally think like Obama likes them to are picturing this: And even possibly this: (Not that there is anything wrong with those:) So, now you will have all sorts of people claiming that Obama saved us all because he blocked the importation of "military grade weapons" that would have been used by all sorts of madman against fellow Americans. Politics as usual. Interested to see what will become of trusts and whatnot. However, I have a question for the President, if this "loophole" was so little known, why is it such a big deal to close it? I guarantee that those registering NFA weapons to this "loophole" have caused less innocent bloodshed than a certain group of people that has watched that one movie with Vin Diesel and all those cars a few too many times.

If it's leather you want, then I would say that the Belroy wallets have always intrigued me. I doubt I will get one because of the price.   Currently I use a Spec-Ops Brand T.H.E. Wallet. I like it, but it is nylon. It is very tough, I've been using it for probably 5 years now.   http://www.slimfoldwallet.com However, I am curious about the Slimfold Wallets. They are made of Tyvek. I like how thin they are. I have been considering giving one of them a try vs. my Spec-Ops Brand. Roughly $20, so not a lot to lose.   I'm trying to stay away from leather.

Been thinking about the TFO's. I 100% love the look but have read so many stories about the fiber rods backing out. I just had a Trijicon fail me and they refuse to replace it, so I am heavily considering TFO's. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

Well, Nationwide countered and is offering a premium of $92.92 a month from ~$105. It is still a bit more than the $80 from Geico, but they did make an attempt. Also, to get the $80 from Geico the policy must be paid in full for 6 months. If not, they add a $5 amount to each monthly payment.   Thinking of Sticking with Nationwide because it's the easy thing to do, but still have a bit to change my mind.

MLK one? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

As a sidenote, every time I scroll down and see this title my eyes interpret it as "Bluetooth Bullets" and then I start thinking of these high-tech bullets that will interface with your phone and tell you things such as grouping, time between shots, and whether or not they hit your target based upon materials impacted.   It could be like a real life hit counter when set to "defensive mode". Your phone vibrates in your pocket every time one of the bullets hits flesh.   Of course, this would never work.   /That's what they said about flying  :squint:

  Well, I am just finding it conflicting that a lot of people are claiming "they will take you even if you aren't military now", yet it does not seem to be the case unless they are referring to allowing family members now.

  How do you get them if you are not military or do not have a family member that makes you eligible?

  I tried to, but I don't think that their insurance is for non military folks. My Father was USMC, but he is not and has never been a member of USAA. He isn't really the type to switch insurance to save a few bucks either. I may mention it to him.   Unless you have reason to believe I can somehow get it (I tried, but it said I was not eligible).

  Tried to find the course, perhaps it is easier to find when a member, but all I could find were courses that were roughly $20 a person.   I think it also depends on the state you live in.

A coworker seems to think that one should be careful when switching between insurance companies because one could end up uninsured because companies would no longer insure you if they see that you have a history of switching.   I don't see this as the case, but is there any truth to you? I've always heard it is smart to shop for prices every six months.

Well, I suppose that is something that could be an issue with any insurance company, and whether you pay extra for OEM replacements. Right?