timcalhoun

Not in any particular order: Dan Bedell (Bedell Custom) Bob Londrigan (Brazos Custom) Derek Janowicz Limcat Custom EGW I'm sure there are more.........but I have had my hands on and shot all the above gunmakers guns, and they were all fantastic.

Basically, it comes from the left and center leaf on your sear spring. The left puts pressure on the sear itself and the middle is for your trigger reset.

Derek is one of the 5 gunsmith in the USA that I would want to build me a competition gun. His work is impeccable. He is in Florida and is one heck of a nice guy and an amazingly talented shooter. I detail stripped the gun last night and was amazed at the attention to detail with every single part. I'm very impressed with him. Here is his website... http://www.mcguns.com/

I just got this yesterday. Derek does great work. http://i589.photobucket.com/albums/ss334/tcdvc/100_0713.jpg

7 for 10.......I just got lucky:) It was hard.

RCBS seating dyes will do a taper crimp (you set the crimp first then the OAL) . I just prefer the Lee FCD.

All my RCBS seating dyes do not crimp (I use them to seat the bullet only and I crimp them with a seperate die). BTW, I really like the Lee factory crimp dye. Lee Precision, Inc. Reloading Tools and Equipment: Lee Crimping Dies

Do yourself a favor......chamber the same round a few times from a magazine and then measure the oal again. Just to make sure you won't have bullet push back. I don't want your gun to blow up.

If you are shooting a production gun (xd/glock etc..) you can only put 10 rounds in your mags. If you are shooting a SS you can only carry 8 in 40 or 45 or 10 in a mag for 9mm or 38super. I would try to take 4-5 mags. I'm shooting SS with 8 rounds per and I'll have 5 on my belt and one in the gun. But 95% of the time I will only use 3-4 mags per stage. Go here and click rules and you can find everything you need to know about your holster etc..... National Range Officers Institute

What time do you think last shot will be fired? I have to work that night and would have to be able to get back to Nashvegas in enough time. I would love to shoot this if I can.

Here is a really good interview with Rob Leatham. You have to register to hear the rest but it is really cool and it is free. Action Shooting Podcast Episode #2 | Action Shooting Podcast

Yeah, I wouldn't go in that direction. I've seen primers pushed back into firing pin holes when the softer primers are used in higher pressure rounds. This is what I referred to as primer flow in my first post on this thread. A real mess for semi autos in particular.

I sure hope so. Before long I will have to resort to pointing my finger and saying bang, bang.

Also, y'all probably know this but just in case: You can use small pistol magmum as a substitute for regular small pistol as well. They will add roughly 10fps (on average) to your load. In most pistol loads I will just bump the powder down a tenth or two to compensate. However, if you are pushing a max load I would start even lower with the powder just as a precaution. A good thing to know if primers are hard to come by. LIKE NOW!!!!!

Small rifle primers can be used for small pistol all day long. The only difference is that small rifle has a harder anvil. So the potential for a light strike is possible. IPSC shooters have been using them for 20+ years for 38 super because they would prevent primer flow in very hot rounds. Try them and if you have no light strikes you are good to go.

This gun really is not a 1911. Particularly the way the barrel locks up and tilts. And the way the thumb safety works. And the ejector is not the same. I guess it is more of a hybrid.

Mine runs great. Only 200 rounds through it but so far it has been rock solid.

This has been posted here a while back. http://www.tngunowners.com/forums/general-off-topic/19522-guy-genius.html

A very interesting read on SS barrels. http://www.schuemann.com/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=3zZ4oir3t50=&tabid=67&mid=445

21 this year too. October 8th.

My father in-law builds high end race engines. Mostly for sprint cars and late models. I asked him the same question and he told me that it really just doesn't matter which brand of reputable oil you use when it come to manufactured low compression engines. It is just important that you change it regularly 3-5k. I have always used castrol. My GMC had 286K on it when I sold it and it still wasn't using oil. Loved that engine. I just changed oil every 3-5k and maintained it well.

My pleasure. There are few things on this planet that I like more than fast and accurate shooting.

Most of the time it is a grip issue. Here is a great video that can really help. He even comment on this typical problem you are having hitting low and left. The only thing I will add to this is to keep your elbow slightly bent and don't lock them (they are shock absorbers like the way skiers keep their knees bent). Also I can't remember if he tells you to hold the gun with more pressure with the weak hand than the strong hand. It should be something like 60-40 with your week hand doing most of the work. This really frees up your trigger finger.

Well, in my experience they have proven to be WAY more reliable than any standard extractor that I have used through the years. After an extractor is made it will always want to go back to its original shape. So, if you have an extractor that when it is first dropped in, has the proper tension on it, it will run and run for a very long time. However, most all need some tweaking. And those will eventually get back to where they were originally after some time. The only way around this is to tune it and then temper it again. The aftec just doesn't need all that and just runs and runs as long as it is installed properly. I'll drop new springs in them between 5-10k but that is it. But to each their own.

BTW, if you are going to replace the extractor I would really recommend an Aftec extractor. The Ed Brown and Wilson are good too but the Aftec really eliminates the need for future tuning because of the design. Aftec Advanced Competition Extractor