leroy

All:___________ This is good stuff here. I believe it is a universal truth for handloading for real ammo: Glockster quote: Glockster's observations in post #32 are exactly my experience too. You need enough "oomph" or impulse (...in both rifles and pistols; but especially pistols...) to upset the bullet to the bore and tighten the seal between the bullet and bore to get good accuracy and good powder burn. He is exactly right about unburned powder too. That's why you need a heavy crimp on revolvers and a pretty stiff charge on the semiauto pistols. It also works for rifles. leroy

I agree with spoolie and glockster here. We've got some old loads that came straight from the old lyman, sierra, and speer manuals from the early seventies that listed 7.5 grains of Unique with the old 225 grain JHC's. We used to regularly shoot 6.5 grains of unique with anybody's 230 grain hardball rounds. Remember, the semiauto pistol basically needs the same impulse that the original factory loadings develop. Softball loads will not cycle a standard pistol (...unless you change the recoil spring...). They are also right about the chronograph and pressure signs thing. I've burned a lot of Unique powder in a 45 ACP using these loads. More that that; the one i used is an old "frankenstein" military with a springfield armory slide and a colt frame. No telling what the barrel is or when it was made. The main thing is to use your head. There is plenty of "old" data out there that is good and looks to be way over the max for the litigation based "idiot proof" climate we now live in. Take it from me; there will be no problem telling when loads in semiauto pistols get too hot; you can look at the primers (...despite what others may say...) and the cases and tell. Look for bulged cases. leroy

Seaslug makes a great point in post 10 above ^^^^. The day of problems with parts interchangability in the semiauto pistol industry (...and the AR industry, as well...) was laid to rest with the advent of CNC tooling. That is why you have a bizillion manufacturers of semi-custom 1911's and 2 bizzillion parts manufacurers who make parts that are basically "drop ins.".. The equipment used to build parts like barrels, slides, and even the little stuff is so good today; it's no problem to swap whatever parts you want to swap; no matter the vendor. Bottom line-- Buy the parts you like and install them. The worst thing that can happen is the parts may need a bit of hand fitting (...think Barsto semi-drop in here...). Why, then, does Glock (...and lots of other OEM manufacturers...) recommend not using aftermarket parts...? Because Glock sells parts and competes against the other guys who are making parts just as good (...and, in many instances, better...) than standard Glock parts. Remember, they are in business to make money; its the capitalist system in action (...which i heartily endorse...). I would buy the barrel i liked and start shooting with it. I'm thinkin about a Storm Lake 357 sig barrel for a lightly used Glock 27 we recently acquired myself. I bet it will work like a charm. leroy

I think Eric hit the nail on the head here: Kahr makes an excellent firearm. It is basically a single stack Glock (...a great idea that Glock would have done well to implement...). I predict Kahr will make lots of money selling these "less costly" models. I would much rather have a Kahr than a Ruger (...as much as i like the company and their single (...and double...) actions...). I cant wait for them to become readily available and the "new" to wear of of them. Then i'll pick one up, stick it in my pocket every day to ward off any miscreants and thugs, and put up my trusty Sig 238 in the gunsafe. I say:..."Keep up the good work Kahr".... Leroy

Glockster:___________ Thanks for the great report. Looks like the Doublestar is a keeper. More that that; its a "backyard" product form Kentucky no less!! Thanks again, leroy

My guess is that WD 40 aint nothing but a high grade kerosene (...there is such a thing...) with some magic stuff to help the kerosene penetrate stuff like rust, assembly lube, and crud on assembled parts. It is principally a penetrating oil and a cutting lubricant for drilling and cutting. It smells suspiciously like the old varsol we used to use to wash parts down with in the "old days". Lifted this from the MSDS: 3 - Composition/Information on Ingredients Ingredient CAS # Weight Percent Aliphatic Hydrocarbon 64742-47-8 45-50 Petroleum Base Oil 64742-58-1 64742-53-6 64742-56-9 64742-65-0 <25 LVP Aliphatic Hydrocarbon 64742-47-8 12-18 Carbon Dioxide 124-38-9 2-3 Surfactant Proprietary <2 Non-Hazardous Ingredients Mixture <10 Over 75% old time oil and grease (...alphatic hydrocarbons=greases, oils....). Time (...and technology...) has simply passed WD40 by. The new synthetic stuff is just better. My guess is that the "gell and crud" that everybody talks about is the result of the cleaning action of the WD40. I suspect it cleans and that the "crud" appears to gell; but that's just me. leroy

reb:_____________ Looks like white lithium grease on the exterior of the barrel (...the stuff in the machining grooves on the barrel exterior...) and a bit of fouling in the barrel. Clean it up with some bore solvent and put some moisture displacing lube on it and see how it looks then. My guess is that the white grease was from the initial assembly and the powder fouling is from the proof firing (...i think they all get fired to verify headspace....). What you see as "gouges" in the barrel grooves aint gouges (...i think...). They are just flecks of unburned powder. The "residue" or "smears" at the back may be a bit of lead fouling from a real good lead bullet proof round. leroy

Check this out: Corn production: Grains corn production by country. Definition, graph and map. Soy beans: Soybean > Production statistics - countries compared - NationMaster Wheat (...we are third; behind china and india...): Wheat Production > Grains statistics - countries compared - NationMaster Interesting stuff. leroy

I think Dave is exactly right. See post #98 ^^^^^. Take the time to dig out and read "War is a Racket" by Smedley Butler. alibris link here: Alibris: war is a racket, butler. By the way, I paid about $6.00 bucks for my book; not $44!! Keep watching, they will get cheaper. Dave's point is exactly the point that Butler made in 1935. Interestin aint it?! leroy

Food for thought:__________________ I propose we vacate the middle east and make a radical isolationist decision to run our vehicles on ethanol. We can stimulate the economy by building ethanol processing plants and raising corn and soybeans. We also can get the benefit of telling the rest of the world to grow up, take care of their own interests, and we get the supreme joy of telling the arab pirates of the OPEC nations to starve. We can also do the most important thing i think we should do as a nation and people; we can stop the hemmoraging of the bravest and most dedicated among us by stopping the sending of our military folks to fight in foreign wars with one hand tied behind their backs to bleed and die for a bunch of thugs that view us as mercenaries and think they can buy and sell us as a people like cattle. If we have any corn or soybeans left over, we can sell it back to them at a base parity price of one peck of corn or soybeans to a barrel of crude oil. I, for one, would be more than willing to give about $4 per gallon for motor fuel if we adopted this philosophy. Whadda ya think!??? leroy the isolationist

Me too Brother!!!!.... Keep up the good work! leroy

Folks:________________ You may want to take a look at this. A brass deflector. It is inexpensive, well made, unobtrusive, and removable. Link here:TC Accessories Brass Deflector AR-15 A3 Steel Matte - MidwayUSA TC Accessories Brass Deflector fits Picatinny Rail Steel Matte - MidwayUSA . These will work with a tarp standing up or sitting at the bench. Hope this helps, leroy

mb:______________ When you do your next batch of reloads, you may want to run a chamfer tool around the outside of the case mouth as well as the inside. That will bevel the brass just a tad. Sometimes you will find new brass that has a small burr on both the inside and outside of the case mouths. It must show up from the factory trimming the cases to final length. All that being seid; I would almost bet that you've fixed the problem with "easing" the edges of the chamber. Hope ya got it fixed leroy

Greg:_______________ Is your mini glass bedded? thanks, leroy

Thanks for posting this good news! Keep up the good work. leroy

I like this car!!! Looks to me like Teutonic Engineering at its best!! keep up the good work! leroy

Sending up the prayers. leroy

We are blessed to have the moderators and "benelovent benefactors" we have here on TGO. I, like LINK, have noticed that several forums (...the one you mentioned and the 1911 forum...) are swallowed up with timidity and "political correctness" when "controversial" issues are discussed (...magazine ban, etc....). They seem to be obsessed with being like "Silent Sam the Service Man"; and jealously guard that anonymonity with an iron hand. I believe they have this strange idea that silence on "hot button" issues will somehow make them less of a target for the "anti-gun" crowd. I see this as incredibly naive thinking at best and downright stupidity at worst; but that's just me. I was called down on the 1911 forum for using too big a font. The moderator said it was akin to "shouting". When i replied that i couldn't see the default one; he essentially repeated the "shouting" pronouncement. I dont post there anymore. I think they are childish; let them have their delusion. Remember the famous words of Jesus; He said:"....Woe to you when all men speak well of you....". I'll close with the famous Churchill quote: "...You are known just as well by your detractors as you are your admirers...". There are simply some folks that you do not want to like you, and some forums you shouldn't be associated with if you are wise enough to have an opinion. Dont worry about the childish. Keep up the good work. leroy (...currently serving out a self-imposed ban from the "childish" forums...)

Glad to do it!! leroy

Pellisippi State does them on a regular basis too. You might want to check them out. leroy

Skindog:______________ No such sthing as "stupid questions". These are legitimate questions that need answering. RE: The bluing question. I wouldn't worry about the bluing being rubbed off. I think that is part of the charm of these old shotguns. I would never re-blue one of them. It won't hurt anything as long as you keep them wiped down (...i always use a moisture displacing lube like Birchwood Casey Sheath or whatever else is on sale...) and i think they look great that way. Every time you re-blue a gun, the re-bluing guy will try to polish them a bit. It rounds the edges of the weapon and lightens the engraving and stamping. It also lowers the resale value. Remember, these old shotguns are from 60 to 90 years old. That's a long time to be around. RE: The hunting question. The model 97 and it's later brother, the model 12 has probably killed more sporting game than any other pump shotgun in existence. They were made for hunting. If you like handling and shooting it; by all means hunt with it. You are having the privledge of experiencing what the old timers experienced and seeing for yourself exactly why these old shotguns are so great. The model 97 (...and the model 12...) are the "fathers" of the Browning BPS. RE: Similarity in manufacture. My guess is that the cimmaron is built exactly like the old guns using CNC tooling and better steel. The chinese guys are bad to "reverse engineer" things by taking them apart and making them exactly like the original; which aint a bad thing in my opinion. That is exactly how the italians did all the cap and ball colt copy black powder revolvers. I don't know that for sure; but i would almost bet a paycheck on it. This question may be answered in a Cowboy Action Shooting Forum or from this guy (...link here: CVV Home Page/ ...). You may need to check out a Cowboy Action Shooting forum for details. Just Google for it. RE: Any of the old winchesters should be ok shooting modern low brass (...standard velocity...) shells. We've shot the high brass buckshot loads thru our twenties model with no ill effects. All that being said, i would have a good gunsmith look it over if it looks a bit loose. Hope this helps. leroy

Skindog:_______________ If you are asking about the old Winchester 1897; they are (...in my opinion...) the finest pump shotgun you will ever handle or shoot. The problem is that parts are getting hard to find and the shotguns are becoming antiques instead of working tools. We have a couple of them; one from the 1920's and one from the mid fifties. They are riot guns and they work great. The 97 has no disconnector, so they will slam fire when you pump them while holding the trigger back; so be careful. The guns shoot great. They are all steel and have the usual steel shotgun heft. The stocks are always good; and the action is smooth (...if the gun is clean and it hasn't been mistreated....). The ones that "takedown easy" are the "takedown models". Be aware, there are some solid frame 97's that you cant take down. As you can see; i'm a near worshiper of the ole 97. All that being said; if you intend to shoot one much, i sugguest that you get one of the chinese copies that the cowboy action guys use. I really like the cimmaron model. Link here: Shotguns - Cimarron Firearms - Old West Guns and Cowboy Action Shooting Firearms,#. You can usually find them on Gunbroker for about 500 bucks. For more reading check this out: Winchester Model 1897 Riot Gun. In my opinion, the two greatest firearms that John M Browning invented were the Winchester model 97 and the colt 1911. Hope this little bit of cheering helps!! leroy

Excellent choice. Highly recommended. leroy

Being a bit suspicious; a phrase comes to mind here. That phrase is "...spread the wealth around...". I'm a pretty old guy, and been foolin with firearms since the early sixties. I've seen "revolutions in firearms" come and go. With the police and military industry; it's always about doing business with your friends; no matter what the buying agency says. They sometimes "cook the data" to prove a point and steer a contract (....imagine that!...). It has been my experience over the years that folks (...like Kimber, for example...) make real good stuff. That means most everybodys "stuff" is equally good. That causes you (...the interested buyer, contractor or supplier...) to "gilflirt" the data (...all very honestly, of course--complete with testing procedures, charts, diagrams, data, and hardware...) to make something look bad; say reliability with mags known to have problems, using ammo that will hang on anyone's feed ramp, ect -- you get the picture --- to justify your purchase to provide "enhanced reliability (...or whatever else you are seeking to prove...). I simply refuse to believe that one of the two companies (...springfield is the other...) that dethroned Colt (...as much as i love 'em...) makes an "inferior and unreliable pistol". I simply wont buy that notion. I am open to entertaining the thought that a feed ramp may need a bit of polishing or a magazine may need an $8.00 spring kit. I simply refuse to believe that Kimber is a second class vendor. Again, i'm a suspicious man. In the interest of full disclosure; I neither own a Kimber nor a Springfield. I own Colts. But if i was looking for another 1911 type pistol; i would'nt hesitate to buy one. I trust Springfield, Kimber, and Colt far more than i trust polititians, government purchasing agents, and political pals who sell guns; but that's just me. Food for thought. suspicious leroy PS ---Refer to the "Words to think about" section below for more thoughtful opinion on this matter

I love this!!! Keep up the good work! leroy