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One1

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About One1

  • Rank
    TGO Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Chattanooga
  • Occupation
    Welder

Miscellaneous

  • Handgun Carry Permit
    Yes
  • Law Enforcement
    No
  • Military
    No
  • NRA
    No
  • Carry Weapon #1
    Shield 2.0
  • Carry Weapon #2
    M&P 4.5” 45 ACP

Recent Profile Visitors

475 profile views
  1. Update: I repurposed this to carry my Elite SC so I cut off an inch and a half as well as curved the side that goes on the leg when you bend. Made a nice difference and is proving to be a comfortable holster. Also didn’t realize how thick the Kydex was until I compared it to another holster (factory Canik Elite SC holster). I think for what I paid I did well.
  2. I’ve bought several Guns there and they are good to deal with.
  3. Happy Memorial Day!
  4. There is nothing about 2mm that makes the slightest damn about that optic being on a plate. Either you have an optic or you don’t. The viper mini is one of the lowest profile dots on the market so let’s call it equalling the rest of the dots. since we are being fair for the sake of fair, you’ll notice all Caniks sit flush on the RMR plates. therefore i simply made the plate that is in the other canik kits. That makes it correct.
  5. We are shooting about ten yards on the last trip. I didn’t want to put anyone under the bus so i just gave three examples without names. My shots are more centered, i tend to shoot slightly high, but centered. I just wanted to get opinions on a more scientific way to center a red dot. Most of the shots i took on the target were high or low, but when i changed ammo and shooters they went right and left so i saw room for the red dot to be setup wrong by certain people. I’ve had a tendency to shoot slightly left of center if anything, but not low and left. My last target test was this one. I’m not a marksman, but I don’t really have issues that I’d be concerned about. That wasn’t always the case as my first shooting days I did the typical low left pull and changing guns made a bigger difference than changing techniques. One’s that fit better didn’t make me have to work so hard. i just feel like there’s gotta be a better way to get a non biased approach to centering the red dot with people’s natural tendency to pull or anticipate. I’m not completely convinced that I’m shooting center either because i have no reference when setting a red dot so my inquiry is also for my own shooting just incase maybe i am pulling, who knows..... there is no center point reference when setting a dot
  6. I put red dots where they don’t belong i like them so much. The Canik TP9SF Elite SC is only milled for a Shield Micro Dot, but I decided a Viper Mini would fit.
  7. Adding my new Elite SC to the thread.
  8. For my personal grouping I typically shoot a hole in the target instead of individual holes. It’s hard to see once the target is shot out, but I’d do about 4 shots and change the red dot. Most of the groups of 4 are about 1.5” to 2” but I can’t say which ammo was which or who was shooting. If I had wanted to rely on the results of the targets I’d have shot one by myself totally, but it was really just progressive as I didn’t expect to have issues once done. Actually as far as the zero is concerned I was pleased with the result in the end. I shot about 1.5” groups in the yellow and then packed up. I didn’t ever solve the question though of is it really zero or not because I could be pulling.
  9. Here’s a video that shows the group. Explained in more detail here.
  10. When I recently zero’d a couple red dots I noticed that I could shoot them great, but others couldn’t shoot them as well. What I determined was one of us was pulling, one of us was anticipating, and the other was not doing either. So depending on who set the red dot up, they were the only one that could shoot it well. This leads me to two questions. (1) if you don’t know you are pulling how can you set up a red dot to be at zero? And (2) does it matter if it’s your dot and you are the one shooting? I’m not aware of a way to set up a red dot with graphs in a room and not shoot the gun. That would get true zero. Anyone know of a better way than trusting grouping? Changing ammo, shooters, etc changes everything.
  11. After noticing striking similarities between these two optics I started to suspect they were out if the same sweat shop. TL;DR I’m now convinced they are. Viper - $249 ADE - $79 In terms of specs they are identical so no need to list them. They are in fact so similar I’ll just list the differences. The viper battery just sits on the bottom pressed against the optic via the mount. The ADE uses a screw cap with waterproof seal. I prefer the ADE on that because water still can get in the mount through the screw holes. The Viper is slightly smaller in height, but I didn’t notice a difference when shooting. They are both the same brightness with the exception that the Viper has 7 clicks and the ADE has 5. Where the Viper has an up and down button, the ADE has a single button that simply loops from dim to bright over and over. They both have the same polished lens and tint and the screws are in the exact same spots for adjustments. They both performed identically. Zero was set on both after a few adjustments and they both stayed there for the 500 rounds. Fit and finish, the material used, and the coatings on both were spot on dead wringers. I would suggest if you only have $79 and want an optic to check the ADE out. It’s definitely not one of those horrible optics that the lens blows out on after 3 shots. I’m comfortable saying it seems to be an unlicensed version of the Viper with subtle changes to avoid legalities. clickable hi-res thumbs below

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