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Patton

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Posts posted by Patton

  1. Most of mine has come from Academy in the last three months. I buy reloading supplies when I find them and at a great deal. The most I pay to reload handgun rounds is about .16 and 9mm is closer to .12 a round or .09 if I cast my own.

  2. On 2/13/2020 at 1:13 PM, xtriggerman said:

     Ejection issues "usually" comes from not enough time at the factory polishing out the cylinder walls. God knows, I'v fixed sticky ejection quite a lot on a variety of revolvers by repolishing. Tho I'v not seen how Charter has set up these particular extractors.  What I find interesting in the Link (thanks Glockspock) is the 74020 in .40....... hmmm. short cut in the frame with revolver grip comfort. I'v also been eyeing the S$W 60 in 357 as Dave. That's a top performer no doubt but the 40 is rather intriguing in its self in a nice wheel gun. Nice & Charter historically were not synonymous. Iv not handled a Charter in decades. Don't get me wrong, they work OK but just clunky is the only way I can describe their function.

     UPDATE.... Just found this guy's vid on the 40. Apparently he has paged my thoughts! One thing I found out is they use more rifling grooves in their barrels. That typicaly means shallower rifling to groove depth. Like the Marlin micro groove barrels, From what I'v read...not beloved by cast slugs. Cast slugs need groove depth to perform well in many cases. 

    I totally missed your conversation about the 40 Pittbull.  I owned one about two years ago.   I ran across it at a very reasonable price new.  Super tuff finish, very accurate, and not finicky about ammo.  It did feel every bit as stout as a 357; it has the same energy without the loudness.  It was a little slow to reload.  If it weren’t for a great friend waning it I probably would have held onto it.  

  3. If you already have a need for a commercial mower picking up some yards will make a little more sense. 

    I used a 42” Exmark walk behind in the late 90s for a few weeks, but other than that I have mostly used 48”.  I have seen a few 32-33” walk behinds used by some people I know and trust their judgements. I think I have seen more Bobcat brand than any. Their reasoning was entering backyard gates.  The absolute best mower I ever used was a 48” John Deer hydro walk-behind.  It gave over a decade of reliable service without many surprises. However, I am a huge Snapper fan but the new ones don’t have a attachment for a sulky and can be a little heavy.

    • Like 1
  4. Reefermac sounds like a man with experience. I hate to say it, teachers and preachers are the worst about stiffing you.  If it weren’t for the fact a lot of cops and firefighters do it on the side they would be bad too. Someone that works in a bank will have a check printed for you when you get started.  

    As far as specialty skills, I knew a few people that made good money only doing ornamental pruning and a few others doing irrigation. I heard the comment several times from them, “Leave the mowing to the rednecks and the kids”.  One of my favorite sayings is a fit, healthy person can make a living with a Toyota Tacoma, push mower, trimmer, blower, a garbage can, and basic yard tools like a rake and shovel. I’m not say to not buy a larger mower; it may be one of the last purchases I make. Push mowers cut grass and some of your reliable  customers want it push mower. I like to ride a z mower, at least some of the time, a good hydrostatic 48” walk-behind is so much more versatile and requires slightly less to maintain. 

    If I hear the comment, “I’m not push mowing anything”. I’m going to tell you find something else to go do.

    • Like 1
  5. I watch Yankee Marshal’s videos but he reminds me of a spoiled brat. I will actually disagree totally with auto caliber revolvers; they have a place. Forget about 9mm being out of stock everywhere right now but 9mm is between 38 and 357 energy wise. I shoot mostly 357 Golden Sabers because they are the equivalent of 9mm. The 9mm revolver just isn’t worth more in my opinion.

    A S&W 625 in 45auto is the cheapest new N frame; mine was $725 OTD. My S&w 625 auto is very fast and 45acp is the second most available pistol ammo at Sportsman’s Warehouse right now behind 40s&w. I do not require moon clips to shoot mine. I let gravity shake the empty cases out and stuck cases can be picked out with a fingernail or the rim of another cartridge. I actually wished my 625 was a 610 but the 610 is way too much money. I get free 40 ammo. My 625 is a great replacement for a 629 44mag. Most people that own a 629 would probably really be better off with a 625. The reason I say that is magnum loads for a 629 can be found fairly easy but 44 specials are expensive and not as easily found. A lot of 629 owners would probably shoot their 629 is 44 spl was as cheap and common as 45acp. I can load some really hot 45 which is fine for defense against everything in the 48. Speaking of loading, I keep meaning to get some 45 Auto Rim cases just because. 

  6. No one will cut it for the pulp alone. A tractor trailer of pines is worth less than $300 best case scenario. Most mills will not accept yard trees.  

    It’s probably the worst time in the last 50 years to be asking about tree work in the Chattanooga and Cleveland area. In fact, I referred someone to Chattanooga Tree Service, which is honestly the oldest and biggest tree service in the area, and they are not returning calls unless your situation is an emergency.  

  7. I agree with DaveTN.  Like I posted previously, the 9 is worth more but most would just assume have a 357.  IT may be a Ruger Revolver collector that will pay the most.  It’s not collector grade, in fact far from it, but it’s a 9mm which the collectors like. Most collectors want NIB. Many do like shooter grade.  The average gun buyer and shooter will prefer the Speed Six in 357. Now the 9mm is les scommon and really worth more but the 357 or 38 sells faster and for even less money.  I see it bringing $600 on Gunbroker very easily. I see 500 very easily as a private party sale on this forum or armslist. 

    • Like 1
  8. Once again, I wouldn’t talk anyone out of it.  I did it because I grew up around it and studied horticulture in school.   My dad did it and actually still does turf grass treatments. If you have a low stress job making more then $35k a year with benefits I would not mow full-time. For some people it makes sense. Like if they really want a justification to have a nice truck and they already need a good commercial mower for their own lawn. If I didn’t have a desire for the truck or already need a 48 or 60 inch mower for my own lawn I would deliver pizzas and make more money. 

    Speaking of which get ready for the 18 or 19 yo something who’s mommy and daddy bought them a new truck and new equipment to go out and compete with you. You know, the store bought rednecks. He gets to keep all the earnings for profit. These guys last two summers and get a real job or disappear.

    • Like 2
  9. 30 minutes ago, peejman said:

    Have friends or neighbors get quotes from existing services. Compare them to what you'd charge for the same work.  

    Always a good idea. I have found many companies or individuals will price something incorrectly and then just stop going or stop doing quality work hoping the customer goes away.  My in-laws have experienced this.  They had a very good reputable guy who started doing it after I told them I didn't want any part of it anymore. I recommended him.  They let him go to save $10 a cut and the new guy just stopped showing up except for when he was hurting for money. The customers he acquired after them he quoted them more and will now their yards no matter what. You honestly get what you pay for.

    It sounds strange but most people understand this. I found that when pricing a yard most people were ok letting you price it for a one time service to get an accurate  feel for what it will take.  Example: John Doe stops me and asks what it would cost. I would walk around and ask what they were paying their last guy and who it was. There were red flags I looked for.  If company abc was doing it, and they aren’t happy, I know me and this customer will never work out.  If company xyz is mowing it they are looking for the absolute cheapest price. I will tell the customer I am happy to cut it today for the $60 he was paying his last guy if I believe it’s a reasonable price.  If I think I can save him some money I will know after the first cut.  Truthfully, five or even ten dollars isn’t going to make or break anything. I have found the ones you price too cheap you will pay dearly for. They will be the first to owe you for several months or move and not pay you. Those that you mess up and price a little too high are hardly never late and never seem to bug you or blame you for something you didn’t do. 

    • Thanks 3
  10. 4 hours ago, hlb14 said:

    I'm trying to break into the business. Same question was asked by someone on a national forum and answers varied widely.  

    I will not talk you out of it. I would do it again before I starved. Some things you probably haven’t thought about. It’s hard to collect payments out of people, and when they pay late it messes up your whole scheduling.  If I collected every dime I was ever owed I would still be in business. Three or four days of rain will get you weeks behind with people saying if you can’t get here today I will get someone else. Probably the third biggest gripe is broken and stolen equipment.  I have pulled up on a lawn and had my blower missing;  I have no clue to this day what happened to it. I have been in the back corner of a huge lawn and had my front caster on the walk behind break; just a fluke. Talk about a messed up day. Some customers want one company to do every task and it isn’t worth you getting licensed for pesticides, buying every piece of equipment for pruning, and learning about irrigation. 

    The things you have probably thought about and are an issue. People undercutting you.  My average lawn was probably $40 but the guy next door will do it for $30 and he probably can and make money too. People pop up every day and do it for a year pricing everything at $30. They last a year, exhaust themselves, wear out their equipment, and two new under-cutters pop up to replace them. Everyone wants to know why you want $40, but they won’t listen to their own gripes about the guy that don’t care doing it for $30. Don’t anticipate finding good help.  People making $10 per hour without any benefits will leave you high and dry. I drove across town to pick a guy up to work for the day and he said, “I will not have to work this week because my brother’s student loan check came in.”

     

    However, I have had days where everything went right and made money. 

    • Like 3
  11. Most will aim for $35-40 per man hour labor for mow, trim, and blow.  That is assuming it’s a legitimate business. Understand that may vary depending on location to other jobs and or difficulty of lawn. I once had a lawn in the middle of three other stops that it just made sense to do it for the same $50 as the other three despite it being bigger; it just worked logistically. I had a much smaller lawn across town that would have cost me to mow for $50. You will make the most money off of other projects they ask you to do.  

     

    Why you ask?

     

    • Like 1
  12. The Speed Sixes are more popular than ever right now.  The 9mm is a love or hate relationship in a Speed Six.  About a year ago GTs had one that was three inch and stainless with I’ll fitting Pachmayr grips.  I thought the 699 price was a little high and it must have been because it hung around a few months. I looked at it and said I would rather have one in 357 for about a $100 less.  They said it was funny because multiple people had said the same thing. Typically a heavier bullet does better in a 9mm revolver. 

  13. One FTE out of the first 100 rounds is great odds.  Many of don’t consider 1911s broken in and suitable for carry until after 200-250 rounds and then we like too see 200 flawless rounds through it. 

  14. 1 hour ago, Grunt67 said:

    I go thru spots on different highways that put off a radar signal on my detector, out in the middle of nowhere sometimes, no one around, no place to hide. Alarm system, maybe, no idea, just happens. I ignore it.

    A radar wave can transmit for miles. While unlikely, some areas will have radar drones, and not the flying kind, but these transmit a radar signal for various reasons.  Sometimes the reason is to just give a false alarm.

    • Like 2
  15. I spent five years as a master RADAR and LiDAR Instructor. 

    First, I do not know of any laser speed measurement devices that are used with speed cameras. I am not going into details because it’s lengthy but it just wouldn’t work well.  Most of the speed cameras are not even radar but measure points; the time it calculates for a vehicle to travel between points. These points are often 20’ and depend on light to cast shadows. It’s strange but it works very well. That’s why some radar detectors do not alert to speed cameras; they aren’t radar. 

    Its been eight years since I worked at a department with speed cameras, but here is how it worked with our department.  At the end of the day we viewed the recorded violations and deleted any false, questionable, or unwanted violations. We, certified officers, signed off on each violation that we wanted to mail a citation.  We mailed the recording to a private company who downloaded the violations onto an internet link.  The company mailed the violations to the offenders via certified mail.  It provided a picture along with a link to view the violation in real-time. It stated your options. 1. Pay $50 and it will be dealt with as civil and not points or insurance reporting. 2. Appear on the mandatory court date provided. The disclaimer was payments not received in X amount of days would require a mandatory court appearance. Failure to appear on the mandatory court date could result in a FTA and a revoked drivers license.  They did revoke some license for failure to appear but some they did not for various reasons. I don’t really know most of the reasons.

    I was in court one day and a woman came in who said she committed the violation but couldn’t pay or wouldn’t pay.  The city attorney said there wasn’t a thing the city could do.  She appeared, but refused to pay.

     

  16. The paper faces down towards the vapor barrier and the pink insulation faces up towards the roof. I don’t know if that is what you are describing or not.  The plan is to have the insulation ripped out, and the wood sprayed with Borate. There is not any wood decay and very little fungus. Then the vapor barrier will be replaced.  I am wanting to avoid replacing the insulation.

     Is there a requirement for there to be insulation in the crawlspace?

  17. 7 hours ago, No_0ne said:

    If the house has central heat and air, with duct work under the floors, leaving the insulation off is the easiest solution.  Modern theory is to include the crawlspace as part of the conditioned area of the house, as such the outer walls are often insulated with rigid insulation, not fiberglass batts.  They will typically put some sort of vapor barrier under the floors to guard against moisture. In older homes, this isn't practical, so the next best solution is a properly vented crawlspace with no subfloor insulation.  This will prevent moisture accumulation such as you described.

    I have heard others say that too.  I appreciate it. The moisture in the crawlspace really isn’t bad but some of our closets would get mildew. Someone hinted that the insulation could be to blame.

  18. Is it required for there to be insulation in a crawlspace? I’m selling my old house, and I am going to get the crawlspace treated. They want to rip out the insulation; I believe it has caused moisture issues inside the house anyway. I am just trying to budget if I need to replace the insulation.

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