plinker4life

I have not given up......... I know that I can do a better job as the 1911 is new to me to tinker with. And like you said my main concern is it being safe. I have a CZ 75b that I converted to SAO and filled with Cajun Gun Works parts. It is just a new learning curve on the 1911 for me. And tinkering around with my guns is just a fun a shooting for me. Thank you again for all the help. Next time I tear it down I will try the WC sear and post a Video and maybe that will give you pro's some more insight on my problems.

Also I did notice as you stated above with all the WC parts in and the hammer cocked. I could pull the slide back but couldn't really see it making contact with the hammer in the full cock position.

I am sure you are right. You know 1911's inside out and upside down. It did seem like the disconnecter didn't move quite as much with the all Wilson parts. But it was hard for me to see what was going on. And once I saw the Remington sear would work I went ahead and stoned it just for the fact it was my first time on a 1911 trigger job and I would rather junked the Remington sear first.

I have no clue? Other than the profile near the sear edge on the Remington was slightly thinner. I have a hammer & sear jig and in the jig they both seem fine. But once installed in the gun the WC would not reset with trigger pulled. I tried different spring pressures. Nothing helped. The WC sear did sit taller in the Brownells cutting jig but I left it alone . One day I might try cutting and profiling it and see if works then.

Update....Tonight was the first night I have been able to get to my workbench without kids running around.   Conclusion is the Wilson Sear just will not work properly in my gun. I was able to use the WC hammer and Remington sear. I also added a Wilson full beavertail. I cleaned up the hammer and recut the Remington sear using the brownells sear jig I acquired from graycrait. Trigger is a lot better but not quite as good as my old Kimber.   Thank you all for the help.

I will check that also. I believe I have a spec trigger in my pile of parts and worse case I can try it also. Thanks for all the suggestions I am all ear's.

I did tweak the middle spring slightly to give more pressure on the disconnecter I will try tweaking the sear spring and check disconnecter as you stated. I already backed my overtravel screw on the trigger all the way out to insure I was getting a good sear engagement.

Ok...... Just stumbled on this thread... I just happen to be the friend graycrait is referring to. Disconnecter does not seem to want to work with WC hammer and sear. Take the thumb safety and grip safety out of the equation for now because they are not installed at this point. I can install WC hammer and sear rack the slide and the hammer will cock. I can pull the trigger let the hammer drop while still keeping the trigger pulled rack the slide and the hammer will not catch just follow the slide back down. I can reinstall factory hammer and sear and everything works great even with the thumb and grip safety uninstalled. At this point I am thinking I need to try a WC disconnecter. And new sear spring because it is cheap.?????

Every thing I have heard about the Titan stock is positive other than being a little on the heavy side.

I would say the best deal for the money would be a Boyd's pro varmint. That would be the green/black stock Graycrait posted above. One of my personal favorites is the Bell &Carlson Anschutz stock. Also the Titan stock mentioned above should be great also. I have not personally tried it though. At the moment I believe I have 8 10/22's in various custom configurations. I have tried just about every aftermarket part made. And if I haven't tired it Graycrait more than likely has.

B&C makes some nice stocks also.  Really depends if you want more of a tactical look and feel or something like a sporter. Then you also have a pile crazy looking stocks.   So are you planning tactical,sporter, or wild?

Yes that is my video.......The reset compared to before CGW parts was horrible. I should have taken a video before hand. The trigger pull is around 2#.  I agree the reset is not as nice or as short as a tuned 1911 by no mean's but it is a great shooting and pointing gun. It is a whole different gun now.

Check out http://cajungunworks.com/  .  I have a 75b converted to SA only filled with this guys stuff. I own a couple 1911's one Kimber and one Remington and this CZ shoots and feels on par with any hi quality 1911's.    Here is a video of after install. Only other thing I added were a set of VZ frag Grips.   https://youtu.be/nTinfkvoYJo

It would not have mattered if I had posted    " Horrible shooting video! do not watch"   all you guys would have had to watch it.  The bad part is it was just sitting there on my facebook feed.  Even worse the video was filmed in my hometown. 

That was kind of the point.......first video's like this give gun owner's a bad name..........then talk about how much better the Hipoint was over the Ruger........   I agree video is horrible.....but had to share anyway.

I hosted to photo bucket....... had to cut the length some.    Let me know if the new link works.

Let me try to figure this out....it works on my PC. But first time I have tried to link a video from FB.

Found this on Facebook........all I can say is bless their heart.   http://vid40.photobucket.com/albums/e232/plinker4life/hipoint_zpsbyioczen.mp4

[quote name="nightrunner" post="1171065" timestamp="1406066496"]This could be VERY useful if SHTF[/quote] If SHTF I will be using and reloading something way more powerful than the dinky .22lr. Heck you can reload .22 hornet fairly cheap and pack a good punch. Either way it is a neat idea.

Kieefer,    Check out this thread.    http://rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=543067

The stock flex due to the huge channel Boyds mill's out. Im sure they do it to save weight but it sure makes the fore end weaker.

LOL!!!   How many time's has someone said this exact phrase after Graycrait post's pic's of one of his projects? :rofl:

Looks Great!  :up:

This may also be your problem...Check hammer strut c-clip to make sure you reinstalled it in the right direction or else it could bind on trigger housing.   Video Here  http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=438521

Sounds like guide rod to me. Kidd makes a super slick guide rod and its only $12 with 3 different springs. A lot of people will tell you to polish your original guide rod but that can cause more problems with the charging handle binding "due to you actually making the rod smaller as you polish it" . Another trick is to either have your bolt reworked by Que. He will square up the bolt face, pin the firing pin, and radius the rear of the bolt where it contacts the hammer for smoother operation. Just google Que's bolt work.