LawEnforcementSalesTN

Check with Numrich (www.gunpartscorp.com) or Sarco (http://www.e-sarcoinc.com/sear.aspx)  ... just noticed Sarco has them listed but shows out of stock .. these places will buy them from you...  While a 249 sear necklace would be pretty cool, having seen the HK transferable sear necklace several years ago nothing now compares ;o)  

List them on gunbroker... may can get $20-$30 for them... not a high wear piece... now Kris may shoot his enough to wear one out but not a high demand. We're close, got one completed and running. Working on his now. https://vimeo.com/132889870

I'd assume once enforced every time as it is under individual. If Trusts have to do this I'd expect corps would now have to as well. Still a ton of unanswered whats and ifs though. The extended employee based of corps is going to be an interesting one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you know about Numrich? They sometimes have odd hard to find parts. I see some model D mechanism springs but not sure if they're the same. On my iPhone so I can't see the schematic. http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Search.htm?s=MAB%20spring

Very few decent cans in the $500 range .. a while back Silence Shop had the Tirant 9 for $400 .. steal, cost is over $600.  But I'm sure they're all dried up.   I personally like the Octane 9 now .. I have a Rev 9 in transfer and it's a neat can.. they make good stuff, not sure of the price though.  AAC just came out with a modular version too.   But Silencerco gets my nod, it is a little larger than the Tirant 9 just FYI. 

Little information about the upper...   1) Did you buy it new? Assuming you did given the break-in question.   2) Is it a complete AA assembled upper or just a piston add on kit?   I rank AA up there in quality.. it's not a tier 1 piston system but definitely in the tier 2 platform easily.  All of mine have shot well.  The casings should be knocking off the deflector a little more aggressively.   Accuracy is no different on DI or Piston, or shouldn't be.  I'd try to swap whatever you could spare - buffer springs, buffer, etc..  if the upper didn't come new be sure someone didn't put gas rings in on the bolt - hey seen it before ;o)   Good luck

Correct. Do not travel with an temp non SBR and an AR pistol, etc.

Keep in mind too in a crunch, a SBR is only a SBR when it has a short barrel on it.. it's perfectly legal to throw a 16"+ upper and you don't have to file anything.  If you do file and don't do the year, be sure to give the, 3-4 weeks at minimum.. they do approve quicker but can drag their feet sometimes.  You can also fax your 5320 to them for faster turn around.

Couple of things.. 1st off, Adam (HKParts.net) known him for years.. use to do some clipping and pinning for him back in the 90s when he was still wet behind the ears ;o)   He doesn't sell junk so I'd expect the barrel to be top notch.  That said, you should always install your can and where possible look through it and be sure you can't visually see anything that doesn't look right.   Thread wise I'd go with the more common 1/2x28 as that will provide you more host possibilities down the road.  Octane is a great can, I love them.  If you have any thoughts of doing a 40 or 45 later I'd suggest the 45 Octane.  I ran one for a while on my MP5s and can't tell any noticiable difference between the 9 and 45.. 45 is slightly longer so that may be a consideration on a pistol.   And I'd have no reservations running suppressed 300 through either octanes.   You will need a 1/2x28 piston mount for the octanes for the VP9 to cycle.  For your rifles I'd recommend a fixed mount.

Brandon is not any better. Just research and you'll see the flubs he's been involved in over the years.

  Sorry I didn't catch this until late.  Nothing wrong with Silencershop and you at least know you're going to get your item. Sucks though, all it seems they did was guarantee your LGS a hefty transfer fee AND they don't have to do anything for it execept sign the paperwork.. sweet deal, they should do that for all of us.  I do seriously push a lot of what would/should be my business to them b/c of the tax I have to charge.   But I at least feel better to know they have no secret.  Just smoke and mirrors.. no dual filing, no direct filing ...  

Was not aware ATF would approve a Form 4 from state 1 to state 2 .. I knew you could direct transfer to a FFL holder on a tax paid Form 4 ..   Sounds like they're treating it like a regular title 1 transfer ... all your dealer does is receive, log and 4473 to you locally ... I haven't seen any correspondence from ATF saying we could have NFA onsite without a Form 3 or in for repair (technically asked to be on Form 5) .. I'd be a little edgy having it in my safe and getting inspected and telling them I had your NFA waiting on you to simply pick up but if they do it I'm sure they have some approval to do so .. they're not shady by any means - got too much to lose.   If they're still doing a Form 3, then Form 4 just seems like hassle on their part to get the dealer's signature.. lot of form shuffling ... don't know they definitely sell more cans than anyone on the planet so they may have a Captain Crunch decoder ring ATF gave them... just another example of telling us one thing and doing something else at their discretion.    If it's straight to Form 4 to you I say hell yeah the $75 extra is worth the 2-3 months wait you'll have waiting on Form 3 to clear and then Form 4 start.  You'd only be saving maybe $50 total even if someone gave you a great transfer fee like me ;o)

So what will you be paying total? If advertised fee only then it sounds like their passing an incentive to your guy to use them. That's great just means they're eating your dealer's fee. They get less for the can but if your dealer pushes them heavy that very well may be and good for everyone. But if you're paying silencershop $75 on top of their advertised price your simply paying the transfer fee yourself really.

Price to YOUR dealer should be their advertised priced period. Then the dealer will charge a transfer/registration fee. Re-read and it sounded like silencershop was telling you it's $75 more. They may have simply been assuming what your LGS's fee is.

BS. They may be charging you $75 to transfer it. I charge $35. Silencershop you do save shipping and sales tax more importantly but it can take them a bit to get to your dealer. But I have stuff dropping weekly from them. I push my customers to the best price even if I can get the same thing. On a cheaper can I can normally beat their price even charging sales tax. But Like on a saker I'm about $60 more because of TN tax but I can normally get stuff here faster from my distributors by 3-4 weeks. They ship to me and I've never had to pass any charge along to my customers except my transfer fee. .just enough to cover insurance and the licenses I pay. Direct that fee is calculated in my price.

Not affiliated at all but a heck of deal...   http://www.sturmgewehr.com/webBBS/nfa4sale.cgi?read=171898   Someone had Specwars and Spectre II combos but I think they're out.

GP,   For reference, 3 thou (.003) is about the thickness of a sheet of notebook paper.  I usually engrave them a hundredth.  It's still super subtle.  If you know you're going to cerakote I highly recommend blasting before engraving.  cerakote if applied properly will not fill this however you can inadvertently spray it thick and it will dull it considerably.    Regardless, I engrave until I hit the base and then go the hundredth after. Your thickness needs to be from base not from top coat as that will vary product to product.   If you need someone to engrave and/or blast I do both.  NFA engraving is $35 and blast would be $20.  I'm in Oak Ridge west side of Knoxville if you're ever up this way or of course you can ship to me and I can ship back.   Good luck

Saker is nice too and Silencershop was running a special ... $899 is below dealer cost!! great time to grab if you're on the fence.

The YHM Phantom is an excellent can for the money.  You can get the can and pay the transfer tax cheaper than most other 30 cals start at. I like YHM a lot and recommend them to many in the budget line.  It's not going to be the lightest in the list but sound wise I'd argue few could tell any noticable difference.  The meter may pick up a few dBs but the human ear won't.  Price wise they're hard to beat.  I use to push their 22 line heavily too but AAC and Silencerco has since dropped their prices so the difference in benefits is not all that wonderful now.  But at one time they were less than 1/2 the price of the others.   The YHM Phatoms (M2 and LT/LTA) series will fit under most normal quad rail.  The Noveske NSR, Bravo KMR, Midwest G2, and other slims though are a different story. There's not much of anything will fit under those as the ID is 1.3" and smaller.  But another nod for the phantom is the mount itself contains the ratcheting components, not the can so it is a much better choice for recess mounting inside a rail.   If you're doing 308, the sligtly larger M2 may be a better choice.  The LT does well for 300 but I choose to run a M2 on my hosts more than the other.    I'm out at the moment but I normally sell the Phantoms for $585.  Silencershop may have some in stock and YHM just came out with a new ultra series.. we're all waiting on word on when they'll be shipping.    Good luck

  sure man

Mike, most barrels are machined for the shoulder to accept the old CAR handguard retainers.  While most GBs may still function with it butted up against, the best is slightly forward as you're finding.. it sounds close need to get the shells to eject around the 2-3 o-clock position .. What buffer are you using?   Usually the bleed from the pressure will create a little ring around the gas port hole... and you can start to see about where the GB's port is in relation ..   I'd try to move the block slightly forward a bit more... put a couple of rounds in the mag and be sure it's cycling.  Check your gas rings and be sure they haven't wandered around and lined up and/or broke, etc.. check your carrier key and be sure it's tight.   If everything is new I'd run up to 50 rounds through to see if anything simply loosens up.. you're welcome to come use by buffer, spring, BCG, etc... if you don't have a spare but that's the next step just start swapping out what you can.    Best of luck

Raildog nailed it!   Welding aluminum is a real BEOTCH by itself.  Welding an AR receiver is a true Mother *&(*&((* ;o) ... You can stick a lighter to the side of an AR reciever for 5 minutes it seems and that puppy will pull to the side a few thousandths ... it's not hard at all to jack one up in a heartbeat.   It could be repaired by those more skillful than me (I am not a welder by any stretch) but due to the aluminum and heat disbursment it would be a tidius job .. family heirloom maybe but short of a $25K registered receiver M16 I wouldn't worry about that level of correction.  I do have a buddy who helps me who can weld on water ...  he can fix it but you're definitely then looking at a refinish, cleanup, etc.   Back when John Norell (infamous C2 from the 70s/80s) did a lot of demil jobs (old M16 receivers cut in half), he used all kind of jigs to hold things together .. aluminum shrinks too so he had to compensate for heat and shrinkange .. a true master when you look at his work...but none of that really applies here as you're hole isn't in a location I'd be that concern with.   If it were me, I'd just mill the area a bit to clean it up and make it looks as nice as it could - as if it were meant to be ... there's nothing underneath that needs the hole filled up other than your pride ;o) .. the trigger will pivot on its horizontal pin .. so short of the aesthetic attributes, it won't hurt anything to remain.   If you're going to do this in the future, you can get pretty decent results using a mill bit in a drill press WITH a milling vise.... the kind with the X-Y axis handles... you can get an adeuate one on ebay for $50-$60...drilling lifting, moving over, drilling .. it's going to look choppy and that's a very nice receiver blank you have there.   But looks is all you hurt... as other have suggested you could epoxy something, cut a small piece of aluminum and put it inside to cover, options are endless...   I'll be happy to help you clean it up a bit unless you want to remain loyal to the post and use only common tools someone would have lying around.  I can cheat a bit with the equipment I have lying around ;o)   Best of luck though.. I'll be around next week if you wanted to drive down and let me take a closer look...happy to do so...  but seriously, if you had to go and blow a hole somewhere, you nailed the best sacrificial spot ;o) 

Assuming he's wanting to simply index the print?  If so try to find a peel washer/shim setup.  It will do better and give more adjustment ability. Have him check and see how close he is without the washer.  It's not necessary functional wise.   If all else fails, Tractor Supply or some nut/bolt warehouse may have small shims you can use... just some thoughts.

  :up:   90% done with a RPD kit now for a gentleman, my first RPD demil rebuild but it's been a fun project.. got to headspace the barrel and I'm ready for test fire....     Next, Kris and I have a box full of 249 parts ready on the table... just got the last few pins and stuff in last week so hope to have it rolling soon.   There's been quite a few M60 parts that have been sitting on top my HAAS mill since I got it.. but I already have one of those in the safe... love the belt feds... born, bred and beltfed ;o)     Stan, good to hear both Ralph and Jeff got ya fixed up ... nice videos..

of all the above, Cerakote is probably the best for the DIY .. I (still) use their ambient dry and it does well.. has a high heat threshold which for my suppressors, receivers and such work well (lot of things full auto get hot fast).  While it's used mostly for scopes and plastics, the ambient has held up very well on my ARs, pistols and skins on my bolt rifles.  The heat cure is the best for metal but you need a dedicate oven and it's a little more aggravating to deal with ... mixing hardener and such .. the ambient you just shake and spray... any left pour it back in the jar and it will last a good little bit.   Blueing is the worse.. several steps you have to do, flush tanks, displacement tanks, salts, etc.. it gets nasty and is dangerous and will rust anything metal within 25 feet ..don't ask me how I know ;o)  Parkerizing isn't as bad but still a PITA for a onesess twosees type of jobs ..   While you can use the cold blues, they do good for touch up type stuff but I wouldn't recommend using this as a complete refinish.   Unless you have several guns and/or just want to do it yourself regardless the cost, sending it off will be far less costly than procuring the compoments you'll need.