vujade

Hello forum,   I'm going to try to be as specific as possible and hope that you can lead me in the right direction to solve this.    I'm reloading for my AR.  1/9 twist, standard m4 profile barrel, nothing special.  This is with a 50yard/200 yard zero shooting at 50 yards.  Front part of rifle benched and using iron sights and/or an Eotech.   It's eaten about 40 rounds of Federal (black box from Walmart), 40 rounds of Independence 5.56 and 10 Tula ammo.  No issues from my recollection.   I've since loaded about 300 rounds for it.   These are the loads I've made for it:  (while I have different brass, my group 5 shot groups with the same brass headstamps). I give it a failure strong crimp.  I basically made some dummy rounds with the OAL and cycled them in the gun and applied different crimps until the bullet barely or didn't move as it's pushed hard into the chamber.  OAL = 2.240-2.250.   Primers are CCI.     (I started with these) 55gr Hornady FMJ (bottom part has exposed lead).with cannalure + Federal or Hornady or Israeli brass.  + 23 to 26 grains of WC 844 (military surplus; equivalent to H335).   62 grain pulled "green tips" with cannalure + 23-26 grains of WC844   50 grain Hornady Amax + 24-25 grains of WC844   (I made several dozen of these just lately) 55 grain Hornady "Varmint" with cannalure + 24.3 grains of WC844   52 grain Hornady " Match HP + 24.3 grains of WC844   Accuracy seems to be the best right at 24.1-24.5 grains so I settled on 24.3 grains for all my bullet choices.  The 55 grain FMJ gives me about 1 inch groups at 50 yards.  the 62 grains slightly higher.  The different better quality bullets are all less than an inch pretty easily (I'm sure they can be better if I had a scope or better eyes.)  Half an inch if I do my part.  Shooting with just a sling in the prone position, I can maintain groups into a head size target at 200 yards pretty easily (love that 50/200 zero).   No chronograph (I shot it) so I can't tell the velocity/SD at the moment.   Here are my questions:   1. I load the magazines (Isreali e-Lancer? from Mako group) with 5 rounds for each group.  Every 2 or 3 shot groups will have the last round extract but instead of flying out, it just sits there on top of the magazine, inside the gun.  Once I drop the magazine, the case of course falls down but why it is not kicking out that brass like the others?   2. All rounds seem to have a 'lazy' extraction.  They just kind off plop out without much force (unlike the factory rounds).  Am I under charging them?   3. the 50 grain "match" HP groups well like the rest of them BUT I only got to shoot 1 group.  The rounds kept jamming.  The round attempts to feed but doesn't go in all the way.  I can see that the bolt isn't all the way forward.  I use the Forward Assist but nothing happens.  I also cannot pull the charging handle and extract the round.  They are just stuck in there.  This happened 2 times out of only 8 rounds I fired.  So i stopped shooting those.  We had to use a rubber mallet to push the charging handle back to remove the round.    Inspection of the round shows a few curved scratches on the bullet tip?  Does that mean my rounds are too long and the lands are scratching the bullet?  Shall I back the round a bit?  (the others use the same OAL (except for the Varmint rounds which I load to the cannalure and are much shorter than the others (they feed/work fine; OAL is closer to 2.20)   Any suggestions for the above?  What are some things I can check?   Thank you,      

Sig seems to have quite a following.    Their certainly clunkier than my 1911 and the trigger is more mushy/pushy.  I like the business-like looks though.  If it shoots like my p228, I know the accuracy will be sufficient.    To the big sig fans here, what gravitated you towards the Sig P-line?

Thanks for the comments guys.   I have a question - See the 3rd picture down?  Look at the front sight; it's got a white dot on the TOP.  It's likewise on the rear sights.  (2 dots)  What function do those dots serve?   (I hope I'm explaining this adequately - It's got the regular dots on the back of the sights but it also has the dots on the top (if you're looking down the top of the slide)   I can't wait for the range.  I plan to pit it against a sw1911 and a p228.  Of course this would have the edge over the p228 since I can reload 45ACP.  I intend to use my 1911 load to start it off with.  (they are pretty light loads so no where near max).

Hi, I just adopted a Sig Sauer p220 (1999). Here are some pictures. (This is only my 2nd 45. I look forward to seeing how she performs compared to a 1911.) What to you think of the pictures? I finally got around to learning to use the manual settings on my old SLR last weekend and so these are the first pics.

Murfreesboro Walmart has 2 Colt ARs also.  $1300 and $1400.  6720LE and 6920. 

Yes. I've even had to called in sick before because of it.

RL15 (or actually it's military surplus equivalent (Long Range Match )) is one of my favorite powders!    It's fantastic in 308 and I like it even more than the venerable Varget.   The hard part with 223 is that it's powder is in cylinder form.  It makes it harder to dispense through a powder meter.    I guess if you hand weigh each one, then that's fine.    I found it slightly more accurate than WC844/H-335 but only marginally.

I just wanted to update this thread.  Thank you for everyone's comments.   1.  I did some testing last weekend.  There seems to be no difference between the accuracy of the 12 vs 18 BHN 'hardness rating'.      2.  I did add Lee Alox per suggested to the bullets.  That thing got rid of my leading problem (it wasn't sever as I'm not pushing these too fast).  I highly recommend Lee Alox as well now.    3.  I finally 'turned on' the progressive part of my progressive press.  I installed the Powder measure. I then tested groups I invidivually handloaded (measured and weighed each) with the ones I made with the auto powder measure.  Wow.  the same!   (if not a little better).     I was doing 5 round groups but for several targets, I was doing 15-20 round groups in 5 round sets.  (it was too wet to keep going out there to change targets).    Reloading is fun.  I'm going to have to order more supplies now that I can chuck out the rounds so much more quickly now.

(if this is LEAD bullets) Thanks to Dolomite on this forum, I gave Lee Alox a try.  It virtually eliminated my leading problems.   Using the EXACT same load - I went from needing at least 20-30 passes with a brush/patches to get the leading out to 2 passes and the bore was like new.  I was utterly amazed!   After some load development, I use 3.8 grains of Bullseye for my 200 grain lswc.  It'll bring 2-3 inches at 25 yards using a sw1911.  (gun is somewhat 'benched' (I rest my arms on a towel))  I'm not a good pistol shooter.  (45 acp does seem to be more forgiving than other calibers to reload.  That's what took so long to settle on this load.  They all seemed 'good'.  I like it somewhat light but there were sub 3 inch groups all the way to 5.6 grains of Bullseye.  I stopped there but there were still no pressure signs).  3.8 is light enough that my groups print 2 inches low at 25 though.  4.5 and up's POI is right at POA at 25.    To check the OAL of the cartridge, I take my barrel out and slip the bullet in there to make sure they fit and the back of the cartridge is level.

thank you; watching it now.  Very good so far.

I like S&W's e-series 1911s.  I know the 'fish-scales' aren't for everyone but I like 'em.   I have their older model.  I had some issues (accuracy) at first but l got to judge S&W during the worst (when my gun wasn't performing) and they made me a believer in their customer service.  They took care of me (new barrel)  and now I love my 'Smith' 1911.

When I got my bolt action rifle (Savage 10FP in 308) about 4-5 years ago, I just thought it was only 'eh'.   That's when I was shooitng cheap ammo.  (7.62x51 ball ammo, Federal 150 grains from Walmart, PPU 'match' (they aren't really match) ammo).  (1-2 inches at 100 yards).    Then I decided to try some good ammo (Federal Gold and Hornady TAP) and I started to like it a bit more.  (1 Inch easily at 100 yards).   Fast forward to just last year when I started reloading... WOW!  When I was able to make custom ammo and get them all to under half or even under a quarter an inch at 100 yards, that's when I then fell in love with the rifle.  I've taken it out to 200-400 yards.  300 yard groups at about 2 inches with just a sling and a shooting mat.    My lesson/advice:   I see precision rifles like nice cars.   You don't put cheap gas in a BMW.  It's 93 octone from BP or Shell only.   If you put "Rotten Robbie's 87 gas in there, don't expect the engine to purr.  Likewise, Don't go cheap on the ammo.   Eventually, if you want optimal accuracy, you're going to have to reload.  Manage your expectations.  I almost sold this rifle when I first got it because it wouldn't keep a group under 1.5 inches using the Remington core-loct ammo from Dicks (what I thought was 'good' ammo); I'm so glad I didn't.   I say this because I think i shot that same ammo through my rifle a few years ago.  It was during the time my Savage was only "eh".  I couldn't get it sub MOA with that ammo.  Maybe it'll do better for you but you'll still want to find some better ammo later.   (re: scope - I had a Nikon Buckmaster on it a while ago.  Really liked it but I wanted one where I can easily adjust the rings (as commented prior - the target turrets are good) so I added a SFWA "Super Sniper" 10x scope on there.  Yep. Stupid name, good scope.  And 10x is good enough for 100 yards to 400 yards imho (although I'll probably upgrade to a 16x one day to be easier on my eyes.) 

  What I like to do is look for tiny writings on signs around a store and see if i can read it.  Or I look for something with vertical/horizontal thin black lines (like a bar code) and see how sharp the image is at some distance.    I like my Nikon.  It's a Buckmasters 4-14x.  clear, sharp (can see barcodes lines seperately) and the parallax adjustment is perfect per distance.

thanks Red.   To make sure I understand correctly - the software lead will therefore have a faster velocity than the harder lead.  (I wish I still had a chronograph).   I would then assume that the POI would be closer to the POA (higher).  That would be great.   The bullets are drying now (I just put some Lee Alox Bullet lube on them); I should get to loading some tomorrow and trying them this weekend.

Hello Forum, I just finished my first box of Missouri Bullet Company's Lead bullets. That means I have 500 rounds rounds through my 1911! These are the IDP #1, BRN hardness at 18 labelled for "major power factor". I'm using 3.8 grains of Bullseye. Sweet/soft shooting and after some accuracy testing, it's the more consistent of the lot. (average right under 2 inches at 25 yards (5 shot groups) Smallest groups when I'm my eyes cooperate are under right around an inch like this group here: ) The only thing is that it's a good 2 inches below my point of aim. There is another sweet spot as far as accuracy when i'm at 5.7 grains of bullseye but it's got a bit more kick to it (although at 25 yards, my group would be right in the center of that target unlike the lighter loads). (for the record, I shoot rounds in gradual progression of "hotness" watching for over pressure signs (and none so far even at 5.7 grains) I realized that the new Missouri Bullets I bought are labelled "bullseye for Target Velocities" BRN 12. I did some googling and supposedly, harder bullets/"Major Power" is for hotter loads while software/"Target Velocities" are for lighter loads. My Question - 3.8 grains of Bullseye is really working well for me. Do you think the 3.8 grains recipe will continue to work for these softer bullets? or should I start load development/testing again? (I know, I know - I'm going to make some and figure it out on my own but if I can learn some someone who has already compared/worked with hard/soft bullets - even better)

If only I was this good on deer:   http://www.tngunowners.com/forums/topic/54211-hornady-amax-armor-piercing/   (I'm a one shot, one kill with the chrony so far)

haha!  Great topic!   This just happened to me a few hours ago.  I just finished eating a big ole BBQ.  I decided to let the food settle by doing some reloading.  i had my cup of cookie dough ice cream with me as i started to make some rounds.  (I hand load each by weighing each charge).   Well, I must have been so in the zone that I mistook my ice cream cup with the cup where I have the powder and almost took a spoonful of H335 powder!

  good catch.  that's 'similar to CFE223 I believe.  (I was debating using 842 vs 844)

I'm using that powder also (wc844) and I'm also new to ARs/reloading 223.   I just got back from the range and cleaned the rifle. =)  so your thread was very timely.   I'm did some testing between 24.1 and 24.5; I'm going to settle on 24.5 which had some tighter samples.   I did test the lot for pressure.  I made loads from 23.0 all the way up to 25.5.  No pressure signs all the way to 25.5.  This is using 62 grain FMJs.   I'd suggest make a round of each and just firing them in sequence and look for signs of over pressure.  And then do an OWC or ladder test to finally find the sweet spot.  And then fine tune.

  That is awesome!

Like many things, it's easy to get into reloading. How far and deep you want to get is all up to your skill, passion and wallet.   Some will pick a safe/known good recipe and be perfectly happy that it cycles their firearm. Others won't rest until their groups are just a single hole, at further and further distances.   That's what I love about the hobby.  It's simple enough for a caveman but it'll 'keep intrigued/entertained' the most mathematical and analytical of us.

I like the clean holes on paper that a lead lead wadcutter makes too.

Alright. What a good morning at the range! I tested a few more loads, fine tuned some things and figured out some FTF issues (it's not the magazine, it's the rounds too long (2.26. The ones with an OAL of under 2.24-2.25 were flawless) I'm going to settle on 24.5 grains of WC 844. Both the 55 grain FMJ and the pulled 62 grains produced good results: The others were pretty good too but not as consistant as the 24-25 grains of wc844. (Varget is also a good choice but it was only marginally (if any) better than the surplus powder) They are both a little over half an inch at 50 yards. I then loaded 9 rounds of the same load and emptied them every 3 seconds (rifleman's cadence) and produced a group a little over 1.5 inches at 50 yards. All in a tight cluster center of target. I then filled the magazine and shoot standing at a bunch of clays at 50 yards and then i realized why Eotechs are so awesome. They are SO Fast. They may not excel in printing really tiny groups but as far as target acquisition - you can't go any faster. I just point the 1 MOA dot at even slivers of clay and they were gone as soon as I pull the trigger. As a note - my friend has a scope on his AR (Sig m400). He tried my reloads - they were cloverleafing at 50 yards. Either my loads are really good, his rifle is much more accurate than I am, he's a better shot (likely) or that scope really helps!

  unfortunately, the front sight is fixed.

  I'm using the eotech 522a65.