DaveTN
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Posts posted by DaveTN
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Are there no shrinks on the forum??
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dosent the fmj rounds just go through?
No
i want to really do some damage when needed. without carring a bigger gun.A .380 is the gun you bring to a knife fight; not the gun you bring to a gun fight.
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does anyone have any good info on this...or bad info? lol
Call S&W Customer Service at 800-331-0852 and have a conversation with them about your problem. Since you bought it used it may not be under warranty, but these people just tend to do some pretty impressive things to take care of customers.
You can see what they tell you they think the problem is; what it would cost for them to repair it (if anything), and go from there.
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No it’s not a percentage. After you establish an account with Midway it will show you the regular price and then your dealer price. Some of the stuff has a pretty good discount, and some stuff (like ammo) has very little.
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were n frame revolver popular in the pre WW2 days.
Yes, the Smith & Wesson Army Model 1917 was an N frame.
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But I'm still kind of unsure why the design is so popular. It's good, but so are tons of other guns. And now I'm looking at something else to feed the gun habit lol.
Steve, You just need to get some trigger time on one.…. A good one.
The next time we have a get together I’ll give you a heads up, if you want to go.
WARNING: If you get into 1911’s or quality revolvers they will feed your gun habit. The problem is your wallet being able to keep up.
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My C&R FFL came in the mail today. I sent it off on the 30th, so less than a 3 week turn around.
The Feds are a lot faster that the State... aren’t they?
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Years ago I had several dreams (nightmares ) where I pulled my pistol on an intruder and fired but nothing happened. Both times I was so terrified I woke up.
That’s a common nightmare for cops. The shrinks say when you have those take your weapon to the range and crank off a bunch of rounds.
(I don’t think they mean right then, but …you get the idea
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Clean that up, bring it back into service and give it a new life. It won’t take away from the family history and you can hand down a functioning 1911 to your son.
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Now my question is; has this happened to anyone? and if it were to happen to you, would you be able to trust the gun?
Having a gun fail can mess with your head. I had the thumb safety on my 1911 fail. S&W paid all shipping costs and fixed it promptly. They didn’t tell me what happened or what they did to fix it; they just sent it back fixed.
I probably should have pursued it by calling them to find out what happened; but I didn’t.
I really like the gun, but because of that I won’t carry it. It’s probably fine and just in my head, but even at the range I handle it like it doesn’t have a thumb safety.
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Apples and oranges. 1911’s, Revolvers, pocket guns, and Tupperware; they are all different.
One doesn’t compete with the other and you need them all.
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The great thing about stainless is that you can do what you like with it. File it, grind it, polish it… whatever. It just depends on how much material you need to remove or blend.
Stainless is soft, and many people have a problem in maintaining uniformity of the surface. If you use a small wheel like a dremel and let it dwell in one place to long it will remove more material. You can look down the surface and see it, the more you polish it the more you see it.
If you can use a large buffing wheel (like a bench buffer) and make uniform passes it is easier to maintain a smooth uniform surface. If the surface is pitted or you need to remove deep scratches, you can blend it the best you can and then glass bead it. Glass beading hides a lot.
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That is sweet.
Congrats. -
M&P’s you can get with or without the locks, 1911’s don’t have them. Most new revolvers have them, but there have been some “special runs” without them.
I couldn’t find a used 617 so I had to buy new and it has one; but it’s not an issue because it’s not a carry gun.
You can find almost any S&W you want used in a “Pre Lock”; they just usually bring a little more.
I have thought for a long time they would be dropping the locks but now that I have bought one with a lock they probably will drop them.
They are left over from when the Brits owned S&W and they need to be gone.
Heres a link for all things Smith & Wesson...
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It is built in America by Americans working for an American company. I realize that Gunblast.com is read worldwide, and even translated in some Eastern European country to a Slavic language, so the previous sentence will mean little to some of you. However, to me, American made is important, if I have a choice.
Amen! It means something to me.
I bought one of the first M&P’s because I saw that this was an opportunity to put American made guns back in the hands of American LEO’s. I think S&W is well on their way to doing this.
I can’t buy everything American made but I can still buy Guns, Motorcycles, Cars, and Liquor (the most import things) that is made here and is in the #1 spot.
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I didn’t read all these pages but I’ll just add what they probably already said…. 870.
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Have you checked with Hero Gear or Gun & Leather? I wasn’t looking for 1911 stuff when I was in there but I know Joe had a bunch of 1911’s in Hero Gear; so did Guns & Leather.
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K-Frame was the S&W standard forever when LEO’s were carrying revolvers. But some claimed problems shooting magnums. They were shooting light (110 to 125 GR.) magnums and had forcing cone problems and flame cutting of the top strap. I never had any problems but I always used 158 grain. Some of the K-frames are the Model 19, 66, 10, 15, etc.
So about early 1980’s S&W came out with the L-frame (586, 686). Beefier frame, with a full lower lug. Then later they added an additional chamber; 7 shot. Of all my guns my 4†686 holds the place on the headboard of the bed. Easy to shoot for the wife, even with full house .357Mags.
N-frames are even bigger frames. Model 27, 28, 29, 625, etc. I never got into those. I carried one on duty and it was just too big and bulky. But they are very popular.
J-frames are the little guys. Extremely easy to conceal revolvers like the model 36 in my picture. 5 shots of .38 or .357Mag (in some models). The steel and stainless guns aren’t too bad, but the aluminum and titanium models are brutal to shoot with .357Mag. Probably the most popular of the highly concealable guns.
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One thing I can't stand on 1911s is the solid trigger. I don't think it looks so bad on this gun, but I'll probably replace it with a different trigger.
If I ever get back to having access to a Wire EDM machine I can cut your initials (or whatever) through the trigger.
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Dave,
Is that a 686 top right? if so how do you like it? I have been wanting one of those with a 2 to 2.5 inch barrel for a while, I am definately going with Smith and Wesson on my first wheel gun purchase as they are in my opinion the best on the market,
No, that’s a 2 ½†66. It took a long time to find that and I finally got it from a forum member here. It is a great shooter for a 2 ½â€. I love my L-frames but prefer the K-frames for carry.
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Kano, Sorry for there misunderstanding. I was reading about some of the groups posted here and I’m thinking
, there aren’t many people that can shoot 1 ½†groups at 50 yards (or even 25 yards). However… I am talking about standing. Offhand, no rests, slings, arm braces or other equipment; just you and the gun.
If you put a pistol in a ransom rest or a rifle in a sled; where’s the skill?
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Guns which are built from a bin of interchangeable parts have their advantages, but they simply won't have the precision of properly fitted, matched parts.
That’s the point that I am questioning. What parts of a Smith & Wesson or a Kimber are improperly matched parts? I have spent my life in the machine trades. This is 2008 not 1968, those parts in those bins could be made either by a company producing parts that are junk or they could be made by a company that can easily produce far superior parts than a machinist with basic machines can produce. I would guess that S&W or Kimber can produce high quality parts or get them from a supplier that does.
Again… I’m just questioning this; not arguing it. I truly would like to see how a high end production gun would compare to one of these “Custom†guns costing three times the money. How much smaller group does that extra money get you?
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Impartial, definately,I use to own a S&W 1911 ... don't waste your gas or your ammo...
If you think or any one on this board thinks a $1000 1911 is reliable and will group the same as a high end 1911 that's your right.
Wow….. Sounds impartial to me.
How many 1911’s have you owned in your long history of shooting?
I’m just curious to see the actual results. But as I said finding a shooter will be a challenge.
Old 6" .38 S&W
in Handguns
Posted
No, I wouldn’t risk destroying a family heirloom because of ammo.
Should be pretty easy to identify a Police revolver by the markings on it. Post them if you are unsure.