Ehunt

So, I built an AR Pistol with a PSA 8.5" Gov profile Barrel (link at bottom); it is Semi-Auto only. It does function fine, but I notice that my brass ejects at the 1:30 to 2 o'clock position. I have read several articles stating that they should eject anywhere between the 3 o'clock to 4:30 positions, or close to that. I am currently using an adjustable gas block and an H3 buffer with a SprinCo Red Extra Power Buffer Spring. Closing the gas block any further won't allow the carrier to lock open on a empty mag. I was thinking of purchasing an H3 buffer with a steel body, (some call this an H4 Buffer), to raise the buffer weight to about 6.8 ounces. Will this help, or is it even necessary? Current Barrel: https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-ar15-8-5-5-56-nato-1-7-pistol-length-nitride-barrel-5-56-nato-1-7-77932926.html I've been thinking of switching to a Rainier Arms 1:8 twist barrel to fire 55 grain in tighter groupings: https://www.rainierarms.com/rainier-arms-match-223-wylde-750-gas-block-pistol-barrel-8-5/

Winchester introduces a new cartridge intended for hunting. they call it the 350 Legend, introduced at Shot Show 2019. Basically they straightened a .223 case and fit a .357 round on it. Interesting .

Cool! Thanks!

Using Iron Sights at 25 meters on an M-16, 300 Meter Zero Target I was getting around 1.0" to 0.30" groupings from my 1:8 SS .223 Wylde 18" barrel. Widest group was with 55 grain ammo Norma Tac Ammo, and the tightest group was with 69 grain PPU Match ammo. 75 grain seemed to be less accurate, but that is probably my bad eyes. It was an indoor range and poor lighting with my astigmatism eye balls... so this convinced me that I most likely need some kind of optic to shoot more consistently.

Man! I wish I could afford one!

I'm just trying to test to see what the deviation from cold to warm shots will be. My Stainless .223 Wylde AR-15 has about 1.0" - 1.5" deviation from cold to warm shots (all shots thereafter are very good at 0.50" or less). I just built an AR-10 in .308 Win with a Faxon Nitrite barrel; I am hoping the "cold shots" will end up being a lot closer than they are with my AR-15. On my AR-15, I was using Iron Sights at 25 meters on an M-16, 300 Meter Zero Target I was getting around 1.0" to 0.30" groupings from my 1:8 SS .223 Wylde 18" barrel. Widest group was with 55 grain ammo Norma Tac Ammo, and the tightest group was with 69 grain PPU Match ammo. 75 grain seemed to be less accurate, but that is probably my bad eyes. It was an indoor range and poor lighting with my astigmatism eye balls... so I think I need some kind of optic to shoot more consistently. I just bought a 4-14x44 ACSS Scope from Primary Arms. I am hoping this will help also.

I am wanting to do Cold Barrel shot testing. How long should I wait in between shots for the barrel to cool off enough to produce another "cold barrel shot?"

Used a gas block and "tuned" it to where it would lock open with an empty mag. It was still ejecting too far forward (2:15). I added the H3 Buffer and SprinCo Heave (RED) buffer spring. This did the trick! It is ejecting at 3:00 now and functioning perfectly!

Sorry, I tired to edit that out. Thanks for your help.

I cited three quotes because I am experiencing 1:30 ejection, damaged brass, and considering the heavy buffer and buffer spring to help. I was going to try them with an adjustable gas block. I have a Sharps Rifle Company BCG, so it is quite stout, however I can replace the extractor spring as I have one from a previous order from SprinCo. I ordered a SprinCo RED Buffer Spring (see link below), an EXPO Arms H3 buffer, and a Superlative Arms adjustable gas block. My question is this: should I use all three parts (Adjustable Gas Block, H3 Buffer, and SprinCo RED Buffer Spring) together, or is the Adjustable Gas Block enough to solve the over gassing on its own? Link to RED Buffer Spring: https://bkingsfirearms.com/shop/ar15-spare-lower-upper-parts/tactical-springs-sprinco-buffer-action-springs-ar15-ar10-and-lr308/

A heavy H3 carbine buffer might compensate enough to tame it down into spec, but yeah, an adjustable block undoubtedly offers the most control. And sure, a combination of rifle buffer and Russian ammo may have run just about right before on your rifle. Rifle buffer is a bit heavier than even H2 carbine buffer. I shoot a lot of Russian steel, and find it quite satisfactory, but none that I tested has ever hit 3000 fps, so it's underpowered compared to military spec 5.56 or hotter commercial .223. - OS Half the ARs out there come with with biggest port possible within the (debatable) specs and are overgassed to some extent, as the manufacturers want to make sure they run period. What, though, is your solution for an oversized port, though, if not heavier buffer/spring, or often best, adjustable gas block? Weld it up smaller? What's the difference, you're making the aperture smaller before the gas tube either way. Buy a new barrel? When you get one that is so overgassed that it's throwing empties out at 1:00 and overrides the mag to where it doesn't even pick up the next round, and you put an adjustable block on it so that it slings them at 4:00 and runs 100%, I'd call the thing fixed, myself. - OS I have the same thing happening with my 8.5" pistol. Being that my barrel is much shorter, I am thinking an H3 Buffer and a stronger spring will bee what's needed to correct the over gassing?

I am having the same experience with my new AR Pistol Build (8.5" Barrel, standard gas block), but don't want it to become an issue. The bolt missed locking to the rear two out of ten times (first and third shots, was most likely the weak 10 round Mag Spring); ejection is approximately 1:30-ish. I only fired a total of 20 rounds out of it today for a Break-In, but it seems to be okay otherwise. I was thinking of adding a stronger buffer spring (SprinCo's RED) and/or an H3 Buffer to calm down the 1:30 ejection, and save on premature wear.

Finished Product.

Thanks!

Had a bit of a SNAFU during a Barrel installation. My barrel nut was too deep and was not getting to torque before the nut started touching the receiver. I am getting a new barrel nut from the manufacturer, but during the installation the barrel was loose to the point that the I didn't notice that the Barrel Extension had moved out of the 12 o'clock position and the pin was no longer in the Receiver Notch. Thought all was good and began torquing down the barrel nut. I noticed what was happening and stopped, but not before the Barrel Extension Clocking Pin had tried to make a new notch in the receiver. Fortunately the threads are fine, and other than the depressed point where the pin tried to make a new notch, there seems to be no damage to either parts. My question is this, could this affect re-installation or accuracy? I am not thinking so, but wanted to know if I was wrong or if y'all have had this problem before also. - Thanks

Alien Gear's Shape shift holster seems to be pretty good for several types of carry, IWB, OWB, etc. I am considering it or the Bravo Concealment holster for my EDC holster. For the range and competition, I use the Blackhawk Omnivore. I like the Omnivore for the retention feature it has, plus when combined with the Sherpa hardware, it can be quickly attached or detached to go from my pant belt, to a gun belt, drop leg, or chest rig carry configuration. Good luck.

Thanks for all of your input everyone, very helpful.

Thanks everyone, I greatly appreciate your input.

Those links didn't cover that specifically. Neither could I find an answer in the ATF FAQ section. While I trust what y'all have told me, do you know where I can find an answer on the ATF's or tn.gov's website?

I have been trying to find information about shipping a firearm part (stripped AR Lower), to a FFL shop in Florida, to have some engraving done. But I just can't seen to find the answer I'm looking for. I was wondering if I can ship directly to the Florida FFL shop, or do I have to ship from a FFL in TN to the Florida FFL shop? I have already bought the Lower, filled out the paperwork and everything. The Shop in Florida said to ask a TN State Police Officer, but short of stopping next to one on duty (which I would consider rude and potentially a bad idea), I'm not sure where to begin. Any help would be greatly appreciated! - Thanks in advance.

I agree that it seems to be excellent for competition shooting, not for hunting.

Oh-Rah!!

the ones I had were 5.56, not specifically designed for 300 BLK. That is probably why I was having issues.

Another reason to not visit Illinois. http://video.foxnews.com/v/5764996428001/?#sp=show-clips

Greetings! I am certain that all are welcome, so long as the rules are adhered to. I also am from the West Coast; born in said golden state and was raised in Washington since I was 11, (before the Liberal Invasion). The "Left Coast" is too expensive to live, and far to wacko! Tennessee is beautiful and God has been good to my family and I. Welcome and enjoy!