Mark@Sea

As I mentioned before, I'm headed home this weekend. If I can remember that long, I'll dig those grips out and write down the NSN, then run it when I get back to the ship. I never reloaded .40, so don't have any insights. .45ACP has been, for me, very forgiving to reload. I've reloaded some cases at least a half dozen times with no intolerable signs of wear (target loads, though). Tungsten, the glock v 1911 cage match has been going on since about 15 minutes after the first glock was sold in this country. No doubt 95 years ago it was the 1911 vs the SAA Neither pistol is perfect, but the glock has had some issues the 1911 has not faced. It is still a fairly new technology, I think, and there are still some areas where manufacturers need to learn a bit more. Still areas where shooters need to learn a bit more. Meanwhile, its' fun pulling Rabbis' chain .... If I offend anyone, I apologize.

Hey, Rabbi, I didn't mean to get under your skin. I'm annoying, you're annoying - we have something in common. Can't we be pals? I've also heard that the compact 1911's can have issues with FTF malfs. I have an early Springer Compact, and I'm hoping to be home for the shoot. I could put a couple hundred rounds of mixed ball and JHP through it (reloads) and report back...

Given whoever he's likely to pick as VP, and Nancy Pelosi being third in succession, it is very unlikely that it would make a difference. Not to say that some idiot wouldn't try it, but this election resembles 1860 more than it does 1960. He's all about hope and change, and I think thats' an accurate description of where we'll be two years in - hoping for a change.

Nice pistols I suppose, but I'd rather have one I can afford to shoot, price of ammo being what it is these days. I can't envision the bullet being able to twist enough to jam itself sideways in the lands (aren't these things pretty pointy?) but if it were really really loose, I think it might be able to jump forward of the case until it contacts the lands. I've heard a theory about some powders producing a pressure spike if the case has too much empty volume... but bullet inertia wouldn't begin to come into play until the cartridge is fully forward. Surely that wouldn't happen without the slide being in contact with the base of the cartridge; I.E. the pistol would be in battery at that point, give or take a couple of thousandths. I can't picture any way that recoil impulse or slide action would push the bullet into the powder hard enough to compress it to the point of self ignition unless, again, the bullet was loaded so far off center that it wouldn't chamber, but again that does not seem to be the case in the photos. Those are TINY cases. It'd be very difficult to miss seeing an overcharge if he were loading them one at a time. I'm gonna go with a combination of poor design and very possibly a poorly seated or very soft primer.

Great first choice, Mrs. T. Great only choice, if it had to be - luckily it doesn't (yet - but we may see what a couple years of the obamalama brings us - lets' hope not).

After reading several threads on it, and having little to occupy my evenings, I decided to try making paper cartridge black powder revolver loads. I'm definitely a beginner, but here are some first impressions; Don't buy your lead balls from Bass Pro if you can avoid it. Here, at least, a box of 100 .375 balls cost me $15 before tax! The .454's were $19.95 a box, which sort of decided which caliber I'd try this with. MTM Case Guard reloading boxes make dandy and inexpensive trays for this sort of thing, allowing you to both assemble in assembly line fashion, and store the completed cartridges. First time in my life I ever bought cigarette rolling papers. I had to ask which sort were the gummed variety, and the guy behind me at the convenience store got quite a chuckle when I bought 5 packs. JOB (or maybe it is J<> 1.5's are too wide for .36 caliber. You need to cut off at least 25% of the width (parallel with the gum line). Several threads mentioned using a wooden dowel as a forming tool for the cartridge. I don't have one on hand here, but found that a standard issue skil-craft govt. retractable pen works well. Remove the lower barrel of the pen, cut off the reduced diameter threaded portion, affix the remainder pointed up. The ball will sit on the pen barrel, allowing you to wrap the paper around it. The pen forms the paper into a usable diameter tube. Moistening the paper is best done with a damp towel or sponge. Moisten does NOT mean soak. More info later, and maybe some pictures, as I get this figured out.

Is FN another of those companies that warn that reloads invalidate the warranty? It really stinks that they won't make it right for this guy. I had guessed a high (poorly seated) primer, but releasing the FP that far out of battery is unsat, period. Glad the guy didn't permanently lose function. Lots of nerves and etc. in the hand, not much room for chunks of brass. Lucky guy, all things considered.

Ghostdog, thank you for the advice, but I have a 1911 already. I have a set of ivory stocks, too, how'd you guess!?? I don't use them, frankly they're too thick for me to get a comfortable grip. I keep them because they're the only set I've ever seen with an NSN stamped on the back. Colt emblems, too. Can't say for sure, but its' likely they're worth a buck or two. Got them from a retiring USN pistol team shooter, maybe 15 years ago. Clues welcomed if anyone can provide some provenance on these. Speaking of unsupported chambers, though, I have an honest question that just occurred to me. Does the bulge at the base of the brass make it difficult to reload?

Fascinating article Following a few links led me to this: http://www.thegunzone.com/glock/phase3.html This explains what I saw at an IDPA event years back. That incident is the primary reason I don't own a glock. One juicy quote: "This type of malfunction is non-reducible by currently trained methods." Yep, it required a hefty flathead, a hammer, and a 2x4. To be entirely fair, I feel sure they could have used a smaller block of wood, though. Glock, however, is constantly improving their products. Several articles concerning product improvements.

Yes, it would lower the value. Are you considering this for your own comfort, or for looks? If you've tried a pistol with a beavertail safety and you like it, well heck, go for it. Best thing you can do to tighten your groups is get a new barrel bushing - a tight one that will require fitting. You can do the fitting yourself, though. Tightening the slide can be done a couple of ways, both of which can ruin the gun if done improperly, even if done by someone who has a shop and a 'gunsmith' sign (ask me how I know that). If the barrel has excessive play at the rear when the pistol is in battery, you may consider installing a longer barrel link. Be mindful of the lockup of the barrel lugs with the cutouts on the inside of the slide at the top. Trigger and hammer are gonna require a good 'smith that can properly stone the parts for a safe, reliable trigger pull. Any graduate of the Wile-E-Coyote school of gunsmithing can get a light trigger pull (and thousands do, every year), but keeping it safe and functioning for more than 1 or 2K rounds requires a bit more expertise. As a certified WECSOG I know what I'm talking about, here. I've only got about 20 years experience with these pistols, no doubt an ezpert will tell you differently. Your pistol, your call. If you decide to try fitting some of these parts yourself, first thing you're gonna need to do is find your dremel tool, and throw it out the nearest convenient window.

Follow manufacturers recommendations? Dark, below 70 degrees, no ignition sources, etc. Just a guess, but I have watched this thread with interest.

Just trying to get a feel for how many use one. I picked up a garmin nuvi 200 for my wife. At first she hated the idea, now she's happy with it. Anyone have recommendations or comments?

I believe it is because if you use lead, in short order you are shooting a smoothbore. Polygonal rifling does spin the bullet, but doesn't have traditional lands and grooves.

Its' a long thing that makes loud noises, but thats' not important right now. Seriously, I've had it 10 years, I don't remember the make. Caplock. 45 cal, I think....

Nothing wrong with Berzerkely that a 10KT nuke in the harbor wouldn't fix.

Well, 6 revolvers, 2 flinters, whatever Marswolf is bringing, and if we need 'em I'll haul out the old brass remington and the squirrel rifle. That orta do it, don't you think?

??? I'm figuring others are going to want to try the revolvers, I'll have all mine (except the brass remmie) down at the range. I should have 3 + the one for TC + the two flinters and the cannon. By the way, Tower - thanks for the laptop. I'm sitting in this hotel room, without it I'd be bored out of what mind I have left.

Well, Mike, I have a box of 454's. You think you'll shoot that much? Found a place with 1 box on the shelf, looked lonely so I brought it home. Also have a 454 lee mold, double cavity round ball. You bring the lead, I'll light the fire. You can cast 'em up at the range, I guess.

Sounds good to me...

Thankee!

Mike, if you haven't picked up the balls can I change my mind? Balls for the .36's would come in handier than the .44's at this point.

Hi Brother. Good to 'see' ya. Hope you can make it to the shoot. We're planning on you and Julie having the guest room.

Want to try to find a few minutes to play with building the paper cartridges? I can pick up a pack of cigarette papers somewhere, I'm sure. Ought to be quick to reload those. That'n above, that I just mailed off the payment for, is a purchase from a private seller. .31 caliber in a small frame, so the loading lever is even shorter than you think. I doubt it will make it home in time for the shoot. This one will probably get the slow-rust blue/silver plate treatment. Sure am glad my wife doesn't read this forum!

See the 'Downsides of a Glock' thread, pg 6, in the pistol forum. Somebody else will have to answer that one. I haven't been to enough to know what is usual.

Dang it, Mike!