DMark

Thank You, but they are all very happy and well taken care of where they are right now. Besides they have friends with Combat Grips to keep them company. S&W 24-3.

Thank You Sir for the kind comments. Here is another one for you. S&W 27-2 with the rare 4 inch barrel.

How in the world have I missed this thread for near two years and a chance to pip out one of my S&Ws. Here ya go - - - S&W Model 27-2 with 3.5 inch barrel.

OUTSTANDING Buy! Is that a vintage 1907 sling with it? That could make it even a BIGGER OUTSTANDING Buy.

Gerry has it now!

Yup..., Nothing better than a great day at the range. Too Bad I had to put up with all of those Wild-Eyed Kentuckians in my squad. Just kidding. Thanks to all of Green River Gun Club folks who helped out (and BTW - - - those boys can shoot).

Yeager........ In Before The Lock!

My normal Heavy Metal 3Gun "Right Arm of the Free World" will be staying home in the Ready Rack this time. I plan to shoot my little bullet AKM-74 in 5.45x39 - - - Just for the heck of it!

Oops! Reckon I need to do a better job reading Robert's post for the details. See Ya Saturday.........

Robert, How many rounds for the rifle stage? Thanks,

The anti-aircraft wings are held on by screws that come in from the bottom. I also checked Numrich, and it doesn't look like they have them.

Hmmmm...., Reckon this would be a good time to take my real BUG out of its ankle carry. I understand that the Commonwealth of Kentucky has reciprocity with the Great State of Tennessee.

GREAT Save!

luvmyberetta, you cleary know your way around the M92! I will say one thing my Langdon Elite - - - It has Never, Ever, Failed me in thousands upon thousands of rounds fired even during some long hot days in competition. BTW...., the Elite that phil357 sold you looks NIB. Well Done!

Since the M9 was my "Work-Gun" I shot the Beretta Elite in IDPA for several years. Erine Langdon was shooting for Beretta at the time and winning national championship with the gun. I had Erine do his Level II work to the gun which included his exclusive speed bump trigger with anti-backlash device. Erine's action job brought the double-action pull down to 7 pounds and the single action to 4 pounds. The speed bump trigger also made for faster resets. Its a shame that Erine no longer does any gunsmithing, non does he offer the speed bump trigger for sell. Seems Erine holds the design patent for the trigger, but Beretta has some sort of trademark claims on the part since Erine was under contract with them when he developed the trigger. If IDPA ever breaks out the Stock Service Pistol division into DA/SA and Striker Fired subsets - - - I'll be going back to this Elite.

Got his card!

Trust you'll have some business cards to hand out.

Got an email asking me how I did the cut for the bolt handle. Answer: Slow & Careful I used only handtools - - - round wood rasp, small round and flat files, and the super secret trick tool - - - lipstick. Yup, lipstick. You coat the bottom of the handle with lipstick and press it down on the wood. Where the lipstick marks the wood you rasp and file the wood. You repeat this several times until you get the handle to lock the bolt into battery. You also will need to remove the receiver and barrel in and out of the stock several times to make the cut. Again, the key is to go Slow & Careful. Remove just the amount of wood that the lipstick has marked. You have to get the angle of the handle correct or the depth and width of the cut will be all wrong. What made this cut a bit of a challenge was an existing scrape in the wood right where the handle needed to go. Had to be careful not to splitter it out.

Yes. Page 39 of the IDPA Rule Book. ..... Two full speedloaders/moon clips may be worn directly in front of the holster and they must be positioned as close to the holster as possible. One additional may be worn behind the centerline on either the right or left side for a total of three speedloaders/full moon clips on the belt. ..... In lieu of the use of ammunition carriers, spare magazines (2), speedloaders (3) and moon clips(3) used in a CoF may be carried in the contestant’s pockets......

I think whoever designed the stage mis-understood the term "limited Vickers."

Wish they had shown a better picture of the Battle Mug. The blog pic they had made it look like a 105mm grenade launcher......, not saying that would be a Bad Thing.

Yea I hear ya. That idea cross my mind about 20 rounds into the deal. The funny thing is I have an original National Match Sight Micrometer that I always take with me when sighting in any vintage rifle with a ladder sight, so having some sort of tool to mic a sight is my norm. I reckon I need to figure out something like that if I continue to shoot these old vintage scopes. What threw me at first with this scope was how far off the windage laternal was based on the boresight. I usally see a good group near my POA right at the start. Perhaps the D&T on the base wasn't centered lined as well as it could have been.

Sighting in this rifle with the old style Weaver was alot like working with a Russian scope, you have to adjust the base first. Since the crosshairs move within the field of view, trying to keep them as centered as possible can be alot of work. In order to do this you have to use the rear base adjustments for laternal left & right corrections and shim the front of the base for elevation. On the workbench I centered the crosshairs in the scope's field of view and then used a boresight kit to get me in the ballpark before heading to the range. I found that even with the elevation adjusted all the way up, the scope was at it max limits just above the boresight. I used two .020 shims under the front of the base to correct this. I needed that much thickest because the K2.5 scope has limited elevation adjustments and this rifle could see use in vintage sniper matches which shoot out to 600 yards, so I would need alot or "come-up" at that range. For the laternal boresight all I did was center the crosshair using the base adjustments. Then it was off to the range - - - Where I found out that it was a good thing that I always tend to have more ammo on me than needed. Elevation was just about spot on at 100 yards, but the laternal settings with just a boresight had me about 12 inches off to the right. So I started cranking on the rear base screws and soon found myself in a wild chase of 3-5 inch left and right movements of bullet impacts. Without any "clicks" to count my adjustments on the base screws I came to realize that I wasn't doing a good job of recalling how much correction I was putting in on the base screws while not using the scope's adjustments until I was near center of the target. Did I mention that it was a good thing that I had alot of 30.06 with me. What I finally did was draw a sketch of the left/right screws and note the adjustments using a clock method. That finally got the impacts near my Point of Aim, but it took alot of wasted rounds before I could do the final fine sighting in using the scope's internal adjustments. But it was worth it because I was able to keep the crosshairs centered in the scope. Here are the final results..., and best news of all is that the rifle is just about shooting MOA using CMP surplus Greek HXP M2 ball 1970 production ammo. The two shots within the red circle are before my final adjustment on the scope. The three shots in the yellow circle are the final shots. Happy with that final adjusted three shots (and just about being out of ammo), I took three shots at 200 yards. Not bad for 42 year old non-match, issued ammo being fired out of a 68 year old barrel.

Its a post-war Weaver K2.5. Its about as close as I could get to a Lyman "Alaskan" 2.5 without spending the big bucks. Its of the old style Weaver where the crosshairs move within the field of view. I had a set of Redfield one inch vertical split rings that mounted right up with the base. And you're right....., I need to look at that Unertl you have for another project that I'm saving up parts for.