Capbyrd

I'll try and remember to shoot it this week.

SBRs require a federal background check that the ATF sends to the FBI. If the shop sold you an SBR without sending an ATF Form 4, you and the shop are both asking for trouble.

No time? What target?

I made it through without having to go to any stores or rely on outside assistance for anything. I went to work most days. I'd say that I was prepared enough this time but that's about all.

I've never touched one so I can't say for certain. But I believe that the top half rides inside the bottom half so that probably helps to alleviate some of the possibility for slide bite.

That's the point of the thread. Do some research and find something you never knew existed. It's fun.

My original answer was and still is going to be the M1916 red nine broom handle. But the Webley-Fosbery autococker is too cool not to mention for a second place pick.

If you have to replace your EDC with a pistol that has not been in production since before you were born, what would it be? version differences don’t count.

You should do stand up.

What I mean is that local law enforcement from the state level down will never physically stop a federal law enforcement official in this state. That would be war between the levels of government and the state would lose every time. Sanctuary laws are feel good laws. That's it.

How did you buy an SBR in 45 minutes? I need to know your secret.

That's not how this works.

The state will never go to war with the federal government. So the language that already exists is your best bet. Now, several years back they passed the TN Firearms Freedom Act. It protects TN manufactured objects from local prosecution. But make a machine gun tomorrow and see how much that FFA actually does to protect you. These are feel good laws that don't actually accomplish anything.

A lawsuit is dispute filed in a court for adjudication.

I haven’t used sketchup but tinkercad is also free and very easy to use. A bit limited but quite powerful for a free web based program.

I thought I'd share a couple of my non firearm but firearm related projects as well. Here are a couple of simple rail covers. This particular pistol came with two uppers, one in 5.56 and one in 300blk. I wanted a quick identifier and this was a fun little project. I could have made them sleeker but I was going for fast and simple. This picture has some of my tools in it. The punch blocks in the back were the first thing I designed on my own and printed. It was really cool to take something that didn't exist and create it in the computer and make the computer spit it out as a tangible object. Plus I got to learn some really basic 3D modeling. In front of that on the right is a Glock sight pusher. I've used it on two slides with great success. It has held up really nicely. It's not a perfect design but for the 7 bucks that I have into it, it works really well. The front left is an AR15 bolt vise. This is one of the most used tools on my workbench. The ejector must be removed to use a standard headspace gauge in an AR. The screw pushes the ejector in while the rest holds the bolt still so you can drive out the roll pin. Both this and the sight pusher were designs that I got off the internet but on this one, I didn't like the original design. The original design has a solid screw to push against the ejector. I found that it always wanted to push the bolt out of the jig and sometimes was harder to use. So I modified the design of the screw. I made it so that I could use a threaded insert with a wobble head and that fixed the issues I was having. I really like this design but I'm working on my own. I want to redesign the vise body to better hold and support the bolt.

I wouldn't know where to tell you to start. There is a ton on YouTube and I do a lot of research on there. 3d Printing Nerd, Chep's filament Friday, and Teaching Tech are a few good channels I've learned from. Before I pointed you to any specific machines, I'd ask what kinda price range you were looking at to get started.

I'm paying 20 to 25 for a spool of PLA so it's double the cost but still not terrible. These were printed at .12 layer height so I'd have to adjust things to conform to their recommendations. "Layer Height: Ideal layer height is 60% of nozzle diameter. We do not recommend printing layers below 0.25mm with carbon fiber grades. Lower than 0.25mm may create too much back pressure in the hot end and result in poor feeding, jams, drive gear clicking, and eating a notch into the filament" Yeah. I'd love to have the ability to print with soluble supports but that's not happening any time soon. I'm doing this on a Creality Ender 3 V2. It's a $250 printer. I've noticed some big issues with the entire extrusion system so I'm going to be looking to change it all out in the not too distant future. I'd like a nicer all metal hot end and to move to direct drive and do away with the Bowden tube setup. Dual extruders is a level of complexity I'm not ready to deal with yet.

These are PLA. I haven't messed around with ABS at all. If these work out decently, I'm intending to upgrade my printer so that I can print in some stronger materials like Nylon.

I picked up a 3d printer last year and I've enjoyed some of the projects that I've made. It's been useful for a lot of stuff. I made an AR15 bolt vice that has been one of my most used tools. I made a sight pusher for Glocks that I've used quite successfully. I've printed up a few extended mag releases for 10/22s. It's been useful and fun. I recently got the files to start trying to print some guns. My first attempt was a 10/22. It took four prints before I got the kinks worked out and made a receiver that would actually work. The first several were undersized or I had extrusion issues that made them not worth trying to fix. Then I got this printed. This one was spot on for dimensions and the bolt ran great in it. But before I could test fire it, I dropped it and it cracked. The receiver split at the ejection port around to the barrel opening. I had it installed in a magpul stock and the muzzle end of the barrel hit the ground first. Without a barrel band, the chamber end of the barrel pushed up on the receiver in the right way to split it. I've been convinced that this can be fixed but I did print a replacement. The replacement is also too tight and I've sanded on it for days trying to get it to work and it's just not happening so I got back on trying to fix this receiver. Some black JB Weld two part epoxy has this receiver stronger than ever. I pulled the split apart as much as I could without making it worse and let the epoxy run down into it so that there is plenty in the split but also lining the outside. But of course now it won't fit in a stock. So I've been sanding it down to get it to fit. I know that it's lost a lot of color but a little heat brings that color right back. I'm hoping to test this receiver out this weekend. The other project that I've been working on is a Glock 17 clone. This first picture is of the frame almost straight off the printer. I removed a little of the support material before I thought to take a picture. The second picture is with the support material removed. This design uses a three piece rail system. One piece front rail and two in the rear. Here is a shot of the rails installed. As parts have trickled in I've continued to assemble this one. I'm unable to find a trigger pin right now so I don't know when this one will get finished. But this is in it's current state. I was particularly excited about how well this print came out. Not so much the print quality as the dimensions. Check out the fit of this light on the rail. I'm excited to get the rest of the parts in so that I can see if this will work out. I'll be sure to keep this thread updated.

I've been taking AR work a lot more seriously over the past year and I've invested heavily in better tooling. One of my favorite tools and bests investments has been the Midwest Industries URR. It's a great upgrade to the Geissele reaction rod. The spine on top makes a huge difference. Not only can you use it for barrel install/removal but it actually also acts as a gauge to make sure that the barrel isn't clocked inside the receiver. I used it recently in a Midwest complete upper and found the barrel extension was machined improperly causing the URR not to go into the extension. A couple of emails to Midwest and they replaced it. If you do any AR work, I highly recommend checking these out and picking one up. https://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/MI-Upper-Receiver-Rod-p/mi-urr.htm

I'd feel better about it if this actually meant anything.

NOPE!

The lesson that everyone needs to take away is that your ego is NOT that important. Learn to walk away.

Welcome! I'm working on paying off a life membership to NRA. The rest will have to wait.