Dolomite_supafly

I have emailed them several times with various questions about various products. All I ever get is the same form letter response, "Thanks for contating Magpul, yada, yada, yada". After about the 10th email I just quit asking questions. They do make some very innovative products but it seems they do not want or do not go looking for feedback from their customers. Dolomite

I will say I tried it and do not like it compared ot a VFG. I have both on my AR at the moment trying to force myself to like the AFG coolaid but I can't seem to. Dolomite

Bravo Company is 100% milspec in everything they build and then some. Spike's, although good, isn't as high of quality as Bravo Company. Most people are not going to see the difference or wear out a Spike's setup so for most it doesn't matter if it is milspec or not. What people seem to think is tht milspec is the highest standard but in fact milspec is the lowest standard. It is there to make sure a minimum set of standards is met by manufacturers. Milspec is good but realize it does not gurantee it is the best because it is a minimum standard and not the best standard. Think of it like school grades, just because D is passing doesn't make the student the best even though the student meet the minumum to pass. Milspec is the same way, as long as milspec is met they pass a certain standard. Is it the best standard, far from it but it is the standard the government chose as the minimum to keep our military safe. Bravo company is above the milspec standard on a lot of their parts as well as whole rifles. As a matter of fact Bravo Company goes above and beyond what Colt does because Colt builds theirs to meet the minimum standard as set forth in the milspec standards. There are several makers that fall into the same category, they go well beyond the minimum required to be called "milspec". And before someone jumps in screaming I am a Bravo Company fan boy, I do not own a single Bravo Company part. I never have but I may some day. I built my AR's from the ground up selecting components individually to ensure a quality rifle. Dolomite

Speaking of conversions, has anyone shot the Kimber 1911 with the 17M2 conversion? I found a dedicated SS Kimber chambered in 17M2 and was concidering getting it because it is a rare bird. But I would also have to shoot it some. Dolomite

This is what it is saying now: When I go to complete the order form they don't say what the gift actually is going to be. I do not want to pay for something I don't want or need. Is this is how yours went down? Thanks Dolomite

I carry lightly concealed. That is, you can easily see it if I reach into my pants pocket or if my coat is slightly open. The holster is butted up agains tthe fist belt loop on my pants. Also, I wear shirts that are rarely long enough to cover the muzzle either. And if I bend, even slightly, the pistol will be in full view of anyone looking. I have been asked about the pistol on a few occassions so I know there are plenty more people that are seeing it but don't seem to be concerned. I generally do look a bit rough around the edges but I think people are less concerned about how I look and are more concerned about how I act. I think most people who get into trouble while carrying do so because of their actions more so than how they look or if their pistol is able to be seen. I have made a decision to start dressing in a more professional manner and to clean my appearance up. Not because I have to but because I am just tired of looking like a scum bag. Dolomite

The Brownells Oxphoblue Creme I mentioned earlier works so well because it is a slower acting blue. With most of the cold blues out there they are fast acting and make it difficult to get an even finish. The Brownells stuff takes a little longer ot work but it seems to provide a darker finish. It also doesn't evaporate, dry out, liquify or run like most other cold bluing products. I have used it a lot over the last few years and have been very happy with the results. This gun was done with the Brownells Oxpho-Blue Creme. It has held up well. Any splotches is because of the oil on it. These were taken shortly after the gun was blued so it was still soaking up the oil in the blasted surface. Anyways, here are the pictures, enjoy: Front sight: A few views: Rear sight: Sight picture: BTW, it is a 45 ACP bolt gun I built for my wife. Dolomite

Walmart sells white rice for $6 for 20 pounds. It is the cheapest place I have found when you take into account shipping. I looked for a few months but eventually went ot Walmart and bought mine. I never thought about storing oatmeal as well. I like rice and so does my wife so that isn't that big of a problem even though we would get bored. Bored is better than starving though. I stille need to buy and store a few hundred more pounds but I also need to buy beans which are more expensive compared to rice. Use dry ice to remove the oxygen from the dry foods you are storing. Get some food safe buckets and then use dry ice to displace the oxygen in the dry food filled buckets. Fill the bucket up about 1/3 then add a few cubes of dy ice then finish filling the bucket. Put the lid on loosely then 24 hours later seal the bucket. The carbon dioxide is heavier than the oxygen so it pushes the oxygen out leaving only carbon dioxide. This will kill any critters that might be in the food as well as prevent the food from oxidizing. If you are talking long term survival there are plenty of other items you need to think about as well. Medical supplies, medicine (specifically antibiotics), water, fuel for warmth/cooking, as well as other items. I'll try tio finish this later as I have to run. I am by no means an expert but I am a little into the game right now. My wife and son are building a solar heater that should be able to heat a room using only the sun. I have less than $100 in it now and the most expensive part is the polycarbonate glass, had I found some scrap or even some old windows I could have cut the cost down to $30. Dolomite

With factory built pistol gripped shotguns there is not barrel length requirement but there is the 26" OAL length requirement. If you can extend the pistol grip more rearward then you can shorten the barrel even more. The reason for this is that pistol gripped shotguns do not fall under the rules for shotguns, rifles or pistols because it is considered none of them. They are there own seperate cetegory and as such are only regulated under the GCA and not the NFA even if the barrel is less than 18". Here are the ATF letters "legalizing" pistol gripped shotguns with a barrel of less than 18". http://www.nfaoa.org/documents/testttt20001.pdf http://www.nfaoa.org/documents/Pisto...hotgunLike.pdf Dolomite

Have you actully called about the price of plating? I called a local plating shop last year about doing some small parts and if I remember right it was less than $50. Dolomite

I would use Gunkote in an aerosol can. Prep is everything with Gunkote. I have used it dozens of times and has turned out great. The wear is good as well as one gun I did was carried everyday for about 6 months without any signs of problems. If you have a compressor, even a small one, you can buy small hand held media blasters for less than $15 at Harbor Freight or Northern Tool. If not most automotive shops have blast cabinets and would probably let you use it for either a small fee or free if they think what you are doing is interesting. If all else fails then, as you said, you can use sand paper to roughen the surface. Use gloves and safety glasses for everything. To keep your skin oils off the parts and to keep potentially harmful stuff off of you and out of your eyes. Here is what I do: Disassemble the parts to be coated as completely as you can Clean and degrease all the parts the best you can using non-chorinated brake cleaner Media blast or sand all the parts to be coated (I used medium aluminum oxide from Northern Tool) Bring a pot of 1/2 gallon distilled water and 1/2 gallon Simple Green to near boil As the bubbles start to form remove from heat, letting it sit for a minute or so to allow the temp to equalize Place the parts to be coated in the Simple Green solution and let it sit for about 15 minutes ***Do not breath the steam*** Stir the parts occasionally to help break any oils loose At the same time start boiling some distilled water and turn your oven on its lowest setting When it starts to boil remove from heat, letting it sit for a minute or so to allow the temp to equalize Remove the parts from the Simple Green solution and place in the distilled water for another 15 minutes ***Do not breath the steam*** Remove the parts from the water and place them in the oven long enough for all the water to evaporate Remove the parts one at a time, not all at the same time, and coat them according to the instructions **If you remove them all at the same time and the first ones will be warmer than the last ones causing them to look different** Make sure you spray outside though because it is some pretty nasty stuff, both smelling and bad for you. After all parts are coated with Gunkote place them back in the oven at the recommended temp for the recommended time. I normally put the parts in then set the temp to the 300 degree temp it requires. Once it gets to temp I time off an hour then turn off the oven and let the parts cool slowly in the oven over the course of a few hours. Because the finish is already dry when you begin the baking process it doesn't emit any nasty smells in the oven. This is the down and dirty way I have done it for the last few years and works great. I have only done handguns and small parts but I have went thru at least 4 cans of Gunkote so far. If you have any quesitons feel free to ask. Dolomite

I load 45 for less than 15 cents a round using cast bullets. It was a no brainer for me when I got back in 1911's. Dolomite

I use a single stage to load all my pistol ammo as well. I do own a Lee 1000 but never really used it. Dolomite

Now you need to come over and shoot it. I need to go look but I am pretty sure I have soem 7.62x39 laying around. Dolomite

All is good but over with. I'll PM a few of you for the next meet. Dolomite

In one word, yes. The lighting is better, there is more room between vendors, the facilities are better, and the crowd it draws seems higher class of people. The dealers are the same for the most part but there seems to be less flea market crap at the Expo Center than at Chilhowee. The only bad part to the Expo Center is their rent a cops who think they have he authority to steal your property. They steal hundreds of dollars worth of private property at every show under the assumption a sign makes it legal to do so. If that is the case I need to mark my drive with a sign saying trucks are not allowed and then seize them as they enter, pointing to the sign like the rent a cops as I take the private property. Dolomite

Seems my injuries are cooperating today. Barring anything catastrophic we should be good. Pm me for my number if you are planning on coming. Dolomite

It isn't that they wear out but they seem to develop cracks. Keeping them greased, not just oiled, can help buffer the bushing some. Mine developed a crack, another member has his basically disintegrate and spoolie had his crack as well. Mine was still shooting very good when it was cracked so it was hardly worn out. Dolomite

My wife mentioned there was a lot of people there with BO when we were there yesterday. There does seem to be a lot. The other is the person who either let one go or actually **** themselves and figured no one would know in the crowd. Those are the ones who really disgust me. I understand one might sqeak out but some of them clear isles and they should have know one was building long enough ahead of time to walk outside. I am not sure why but the Chilhowee show brings out a different group of people as well, kind of like a low budget version of the Expo show. There are the regulars who attend both shows, those that only attend the Expo Center show and then there are those who only attend the Chilhowee show. I have been to every show in Knoxville for the last two years and there are plenty of familiar faces at each as well as unique to each. I can honestly say I have seen and heard more BS talkers at the Chilhowee show than there ever was at the Expo Center show. Dolomite

PM me your address. I can help you out on everything but the 380, 40sw and 44 mag. It might take me a week to get them together but if you don't mind waiting I'll do it for free. Dolomite

A few things from experience. Chamber dimensions. If there is even a small chance you might actaully fire surplus 5.56 ammo then get the 5.56 chamber. If you always plan on shooting 223 or reload then get the 223 chamber. Firing 223 in a 5.56 chamber is not dangerous but it is not as accurate as firing 223 in a 223 chamber. Now firing 5.56 in a 223 chamber can lead to serious pressure issues because there is less throat in the chamber. The reason for this is to allow the 5.56 pressures to start to drop before the resistance spikes. If you have a 223 chamber, which has a short throat, and fire 5.56 you can have problems because the pressure scan not drop before the bullet hits the rifling. Another thing that contributes to this is that 5.56 pressures are spec'd at 62K psi while 223 is 52K psi. Do not be tempted to get a 14.5" barrel with a pinned flash hider. If you do there is a ton of work to do before you can change anything on the upper and it costs money. The gas block/FSB can not be removed without removing the flash hider unless you grind the gas block/FSB off and replace it with a bolt on one. And if you can't get the gas block off you can't swap the handguards for a free float tube if you decide later you want one. Trust me as well as anyone else who owns one, you will upgrade. Buy a new, complete rifle that is a brand name. Every manufacturer out there has sold stripped lowers and with that you have no idea of the other components used to build the used gun that is a deal. Used guns are fine until you get ti home and realize there was a reason it was being sold. Brand new, quality, brand name rifles can be had for less than $800. Chrome lining is good for longevity but not so great for accuracy. I would consider either chrome lined or SS barrel for long term durability. Both offer great resistance to corrosion and require little maintance. The SS tends to be more accurate over all than chrome lined barrels. Now individual guns that have chrome lined might shoot better than SS but as a general rule SS tends to shoot better than chrome lined. Chrome lined does last longer than SS but from most users they will never see the end of their barrel's life span. Both genrally cost the same so it comes down to aesthetics, whether you want a SS barrel or a flat black barrel. I media blast my SS to turn them a dull gray. Carbine gas system lengths are hard on the bolt parts but also offer the most reliability. Rifle length gas systems are easier on the parts but may not be as reliable as the carbine length system, especially with some of the imported ammunition. Midlength gas systems off the best of both worlds but lack the aftermarket parts that are available for the carbine or rifle length gas systems. If it were me I would go with a carbine system. Twist rates, the cool aid seems to be 7 twist barrels these days. They will shoot everything up to 80 grain bullets but on the flip side you will loose velocity and barrel life. Even a 7 twist barrel will shoot 40 grain bullets just fine without blowing them apart so all you need to worry about is the upper end. 9 twist barrels shoot everything up to 69 grain well and suffer less from the velocity losses and barrel life issues. The original design was a 12 twist barrel to shoot 55 grain bullets. Figure out what you are going to use the rifle for the most then go with the slowest twist that fits your bullets needs. 9 twist is what I always try to get because it works well with 55 grain bullets, the most common, without the velocity loss or wear of a 7 twist barrel. I am sure there are going to be some others who offer up their own advice on this. Take what I have said with a grain of salt and not as gospel but it does give you some more mind boggling things to research before purchasing that AR. Dolomite

Didn't know Les Baer's were in the same price range as Metro's . Nice looking gun, I am having a few people come out to my house tomorrow. If you want you are more than welcome to show up as well. We are getting together between 1pm and 2pm. I live about 20-25 minutes from Bass Pro. I have a 25 yard range with steel and barricades. Dolomite

Just so everyone knows, this is contingent on how my health is doing. It has been relatively predicatable this week so hopefully I will be good for tomorrow. With that being said don't be surprized or upset if my health throws me for a loop unexpectedly and I can't host. Dolomite

I have a 25 yard range at my house. Most targets are for pistol but I do have some steel setup so you can also shoot steel with a rifle. I also have barricades so you can practice shooting from behind cover. It isn't much but it is a place to shoot whatever you want and how ever you want to shoot it. I am about 20 miles east of East Towne Mall. Supposed to be nice tomorrow. As far as time we can all meet around 1pm-2pm at my house. I'll supply drinks, no alcohol. Dolomite

Try the local highschool that has ROTC. I know the standard for me was 1903, M1 Garand and M14, all demilled of course. The M14 was able to be completely disasembled and other than not being able to chamber a round was fully functional. We even practiced function checks on them after they were reassembled. Dolomite