Jonnin

I love my sig p238, for pocket carry. I do not care for those DAO trigger pulls, just a personal thing. The sig's design reduces recoil too, as it has a locked breech while the L-copy-pistol and hellclone are a little bit more stout (but its just a 380 so thats still not too bad). The kel-tec may be a little rougher out of the box but it costs a lot less as well, so there is that to consider maybe. Also look at the diamondback and bodyguard designs for 2 more identical pistols to the p3at. The bodyguard has a built in laser sight, such as it is. As I do not like any of the DAO ones, I will not try to review them at you, but they are all fine, and I know a lot of people that carry them. Oh, and while the keltec is cheaper and possibly more likely to wear out or break etc, it does not matter: they will fix it for you, for free, usually with no questions asked unless you took a hammer to it. I just sent them back a p-40 that some shady dealer at a gunshow sold me, and while it looked and felt OK, after 3 shots it the trigger fell out. I Fixed it, same thing happened every time. I sent it back to kel-tec and they remade it from the ground up, every single part in the gun was on the work-list as replaced. I now own a band new p-40 that I am going to put in the safe (remember the DAO comment?) as they do not make them anymore.

A 9mm carbine and pistol set, with a solid 1000 rounds of ammo or so, cheap hollowpoints. A 22 is ok for hunting small game but you have hostile people and larger game to consider. A 9mm round out of a long barrel is pretty potent.

Yes, it says new orleans on the hard to read (in the images, its not bad in person) barrel text. They formed from some parent company "thomas griswold" and there is some info on that as well. They also appear to have been, at least in part, in importer that sold goods from england etc, and possibly (???) relabeled some goods with their own name (???). The pistol they talk about, the tarrent or something (sorry, stumbling to remember how to spell all this stuff) was one of the first multi shot designs, I think, and you rotated the barrel seperate from the hammer, if I understood it correctly. They are pretty, and the extra finger grip under the trigger is very interesting.

Yes. Or paint it (and by paint, I mean a paint designed for gun use, not just the hardware store's graffiti special spraypaint). There are some do it yourself finishing products out there, the only one off the top of my head is "guncote" or something like that. It comes in all kinds of funky colors too, if you want a pink or red or sky blue, or camo, etc, you can find what you want. Edit: maybe its called duracote. I am not 100% sure at this point, I was looking to have it done to one of mine but never did as it was more expensive than a funny color was worth.

and many rifles are sighted in at a distance, so they are actually aimed higher up close, so that gravity out there pulls it down to the point of aim at the proper distance. I didnt say it but the testing needs to be done at the desired sight in distance, of course, and that is true for a pistol as well (a pistol at 50 yards and one at 10 feet, you get the same effect as the rifle, just scaled for handgun ranges).

Lol the alabama company and another with a similar name is a coincidence: Griswold Arms was founded in 2007 because of the sheer love we have of hunting, fishing, and the great outdoors... there are smatterings on the web, a tidbit here and there, but not much. I have looked, but there is very little really -- and a lot of it is about swords, and pistols, nothing on the shotguns at all. The sword and pistol stuff is cool but I was looking to tie this gun into the story a little, and so far google isnt helping much. I called that number and they were a wee bit confused.

Good point. We had a water leak here, Ive been de-rusting pliers, screwdrivers, and such for a few weeks now and was not really thinking clearly. Dremel is for bigger jobs (hopefully no gun is this bad). Thankfully only a few cheap tools got wet, no guns!

does it hit what you aim at? Thats what really matters. Its not normal for a gun to have the sights way way off but its not unheard of either. There are 2 things to check before you monkey with it anymore: does it hit what you aim at, and is it consistent? If you put it in a rest (or tie it down, whatever) and shoot 10 or 20 rounds, and they are all over creation, then even if you put a 20x rifle scope on it, it wont hit anything, something else is wrong (ammo, barrel, or something). If it puts them in a nice group then leave it in the rest, and look thru the sights. Is it aimed at the group you made? If yes, leave it alone. If not, adjust the sights until it is aimed at the hole. Now test it in your hands, and it should shoot to your skill level, and only minor tweaking is needed from here. Oh, there is one more thing, are the sights secure on the gun? If they are on the extreme edge of the notch, and could fall out, that is bad and stuff.

The only way to get rid of rust once it starts is to polish it out, then refinish or at least paint it with something reasonable. To polish it out, use what is sensible for the damage in question. Here, it does not look bad, so a buffing wheel on a dremel tool (if you have steady hands) or a rag with polish (diamond dust is great, or a semisolid polishing compound). Try to not take off too much of the good blue as you do it. To refinish it, try one of the products that are for that, like guncote or whatnot, or get it redone at a gunsmith.

I am not a pro at this -- no matter what I did the text on the barrel would not show. It says "griswold & C new orleans laminated barrel" if I spelled it right! Cycle through the images here, should be 6 pictures of it to show details. Picasa Web Albums - youdon - gris

While a lot of these products work, its not a difficult thing to learn. If you are willing to spend a couple of weekends, you could do it the old fashioned way. What you need: about 3-4 whetstones, from rough/diamond (be very careful, takes off a lot of metal, only good for somethign so dull it is beyond hope), medium (the starting point for a work-knife that is not ruined), fine (the starting point for a new knife, or one that can already cut a little but isnt quite sharp), and surgical (optional, use this if you want to shave with the item). From here you need a soft rag and a bottle of 3 in 1 oil. Simple, you take the oil and put a few drops on the stone (if the stone is of the proper type to use oil. Non oil stones are the rough ones that tear up your metal fast). Spread the oil out thin with a finger and wipe off. Now, slice the rock as if you could cut into it with a sharp knife. Flip it over and do the same in the other direction. Over and over. Once you can "shave" the oil from the stone, the sound and feel change, you are ready for the next smoothest stone. Stop when it is sharp enough to suit you -- for most of my knives, I stop when I can shave my arm with them, but for cheap, soft steel like my swiss army knife or cheapo work knife, I stop when its able to cut into soft wood decently well, like a pencil or non-hardwood stick of some sort. Try it on a few cheap knives until you learn what not to do (scrape the backbone, scratch the blade, uneven sharpening, etc). After doing 2-3 blades of 3 inches or so, you will be good enough for most jobs. If you still prefer to use other methods, whatever you do, avoid diamond *anything*. Diamond stones and devices pull of metal at an alarming rate, wearing out the blade rapidly and in time you will need a new knife. Yea, its faster, and yea if you are really careful you can do good work with diamond, but if you are that good, you can do the real stone sharpening that I described too. Careless use of diamond products has ruined more good steel in this country than anything else I can think of. The ceramic v-shaped auto sharpeners are great, but take a while (thats ok, its better than ripping off 1/10 an inch of blade every month or 2).

I can do nashville if I must. Can you private message me his name & number, or if you prefer, ask him first for me? As I said, we are just starting out, so we should be low maintence after we get some decent gear. At our level, we would not need constant adjustments to the guns, as our skills are not to the level where we can blame the gun! (When I said mail it back and forth 50 times, thats the stuff that being local avoids, making sure the grip is correct and minor stuff where he can poke it, hand it to you, get feed back, poke again, etc... which is not fun to do via mail order). I honestly see it as being a setup then maybe a once a year checkup for some years to come barring major malfunctions.

Thanks. I will try to take some pics tonight or tomorrow. I will try asking the info group, thanks. Somehow, and I do not know what I did, but I missed that link in my search. All I found was that I probably needed an expert to appraise it (which I do not care about, I am not trying to sell it) and did not want to pay a big fee for basic info if I could avoid it (basic info is fine, I dont have to know the name of the soldier who used it sort of details).

I have a black powder shotgun, probably civil war era (?) from griswold, and havent found a darn thing about it on the web. Any resources out there? I can throw a picture on here if that helps, or some numbers, if anyone is an expert on the topic.

I like CZ but they have little that I do not already have. I do not like massive pistols, I like guns 6.5 inches or less so I can opt to pocket carry, and a lot of their stuff is just too big. They also have heavy triggers, which I do not care for. If my makarov ever fails or wears out I will get an 82, if I can find one. And they have a nice small platform, the RAMI, that I looked at for a couple of weeks before choosing the PX4 beretta instead. It was a close call though. So, hmm, maybe if they produce a lighter trigger rami like gun or a small, pocket makarov .... !

Is this it?? Llama Micromax Compact Pistol Reviews Forum and Reference Guide It appears to be 6.5 inches long, or a bit smaller than a 1911 for most 1911's (this has so much variety though). If this is the right one, maybe the details on the site will help you. Llama firearms - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia is loaded with info too. Llama .380 as a final running commentary. It agrees with what I had always thought: llamas are mostly junk. Avoid if possible. You want a nice 1911 380, look at sig's p238 model. Its a full on 1911 in minature, only 5 inches and change and a great pocket pistol that retains the full 1911 design and look. If you want a large 380, get a CZ maybe, but those are not 1911 styled. There are not a lot of 380s that are 8 inches long and 1911 style, I cannot think of any actually...

I have 2. Beretta px4 subcompact .40 cal. When that is too big (rarely), a sig p238 can be hidden anywhere. Before these I had tried a lot of different things, mostly carrying a makarov east german but never really happy with it (its a little wimpy, but reliable and accurate and small enough) but branching out to try a kel tec p-40 (trigger is too much really), and a variety of plastic 9mm (never found one I liked).

My wife is looking into the bullseye competition shooting, does anyone know a gunsmith in TN (prefer chattanooga/knoxville area, or even GA/atlanta / nearby alabama area) who does this type of work? It would be setting up a .45 1911 from scratch and some work on a .22 (or from scratch if needed)? We are really just getting started in the sport, but want to get set up decently and having someone localish is a big plus as it avoids the problems of mailing back and forth 50 times.

I would use a 44 mag, with hunting ammo (jacketed soft point) for deep penetration and expansion, hard hitting. A desert eagle would be nice here for extra shots, if you are not a marksman, but personally a long barreled (6-8 inch) revolver in 44 mag with good ammo will do all you need.

Those are totally different styles. You have to consider if you like a double action only gun (the kel-tec), a double action gun, a weak gun (makarov, the cz 82 is mak and like a 380 unless I tangled my model numbers?), and more. My wife has a tarurus slim. Its awesom, small and such, but it jumps around a lot when I shoot it due to no weight, its hard for me to manage the follow up shots. I have this same trouble on nearly every defensive 9mm out there though, its just something about plasic guns and my style. If you can handle the recoil, its a very nice piece. Internal DA style, nice safety easy to hit as you draw it. I have a p-40 which is the same as a p-11. Its trigger requires a body builder to pull: its almost 9 pounds over a long travel. If you can handle this, its an excellent weapon. If you cannot, its hard to shoot. Kel tec service is awesome, and it has to be, their guns are a bit cheap and prone to break after a few thousand rounds and are often in need of some dremel tool action out of the box. CZ has a moderat trigger pull, other than that their weapons are first class. The 82, again, is a makarov and thats a glorified 380, much weaker than a 9mm for self defense in a package that is too large (its a massive gun for so weak a caliber, the tarurus is no bigger!). If this is also found in 9mm, you can ignore that -- in which case, its a fine gun. I like the cz style best: hammer down, chambered, safety off, pull the hammer back as you draw and fire as you point to the target. This can be said of the tarurus though, instead of a hammer you draw and click off the safety, same idea. The extra weight and steel in the cz makes them easier to fire and control recoil. But you have to find your own balance of trigger pull, weight, and style before choosing one of these, because each represents a totally different set of personal choices. I mean, I hate double action only guns, but many love them, so its just a personal thing.