Headed decapping pins

[ANDERSON MEDIC]

Never thought it would be so hard to get something like this.... Everywhere is sold out of headed decapping pins for my .223 dies. I would greatly appreciate it if someone could point me in right direction to find some in stock. If anyone happens to have a surplus of them i would gladly reimburse for a few to get my .223 production back up and running

[Rightwinger]

Get the Lee universal decapper and resize without the pins in your dies.  Just decap everything you shoot and then tumble them.

 

https://fsreloading.com/lee-precision-decapping-die-90292.html?utm_source=google_merchant_center&utm_medium=datafeed&utm_content=CSE&utm_campaign=google_merchant_center&gclid=CPjz99Ku2LcCFRBgMgodtxgAHw

[ANDERSON MEDIC]

I tumble in corn media and it plugs the hole when i tumble after depriming. I usually tumble then deprime/resize and then charge and seat. I try to minimize the number of steps. I use the 2 die ar series small base with taper crimp. It seems a universal decapper would just be one more step to add

[Rightwinger]

I also use corn with some walnut shell mix.  You should be checking your primer holes anyway so clearing the few that pick up some media isn't that big a deal.  I generally decap the mix of brass coming back from shooting and sort.  One step at the front and the first observation looking for split or damaged cases.  Are you not cleaning your pockets?  If not, you'll start seeing some primers not seat fully and risk a slam fire.

[Dolomite_supafly]

Drop the corn cobb media and go with walnut. It you get the Kaytee Lizard Litter from the pet store it works a million times better than corn cob and is cheaper as well. The Lizard Litter is small enough that it falls through the primer holes. You can add some liquid car wax and it polishes as bright as any corn cob media I have tried. A 10+ pound bag costs about $7 and the car wax should already be in your garage.

 

I would get away from the "all in one dies" if you want your brass to last. I am talking about the single die that sizes the neck AND the body at the same time. They tend to really work harden the brass and I was only getting about 4 loadings per case unless I annealed the cases. Annealing was too much of a pain. And when I do use them I generally remove .002" from the expander ball so I have more neck tension and do not need to crimp. I do not crimp because it work hardens the neck as well.

 

I use a Lee collet die to size the neck only followed by a Redding body die to do the body and bump the shoulder. Then I am done. The brass doesn't grow as much and lasts so much longer. I have some that have to have at least 15 loadings on them now and you cannot tell. It is also easier physically when you seperate the steps. If this is for a bolt gun you only need to neck size everytime. Then body size every 4th or 5th sizing.

 

I even take the collet dies mandrel and chuck it into a drill and remove .002" to increase the neck tension. Using the whole neck to hold the bullet is more secure than just a crimp. It also doesn't deform the bullet like a crimp can either.

 

If all else fails you can use the universal decapping pin (then one without the expander ball) in the 223 die. It will leave your neck way undersized but the bullet will expand it as it is seated. I have ran into issues with a flat based bullet crushing the neck, and ruining the case, rather than going inside. Boat tails work most times. Another issue is sometime the bullets will not be concentric. But for blaster ammo it will work.