GlockSpock

  Portsmouth, VA   Currently at $.35 a pound.

Your mother was a hamster and your father smelt of elderberry!

I posted a while back about purchasing a push reel mower this Spring. Well, the grass is about to grow....a lot!   I am interested in the Scott's 2000-20 on Amazon, but since I have no experience with these mowers I'm mainly going by the number of reviews.   Any input or anything to steer me in a different direction?

http://www.tngunowners.com/forums/topic/76487-stainless-wet-tumbling/

All of my research shows that if you want clean, stainless is the way to go. It's expensive, but $48 shipped on Amazon is about as good as it gets. My setup gets here tomorrow so I will post pictures of it all.

For anyone interested, my SWFA price match request came in yesterday. I paid $110 to MidwayUSA yesterday for the scope shipped.   SWFA's price will be $104.54 shipped.   You would have to submit a price match request here: http://swfa.com/PriceMatch.aspx   I just jumped on the deal yesterday just in case their stock sold out and then SWFA wouldn't match. It should be here Saturday. I'm excited!

  I suppose I never followed up on this. Long story short, I paid $5.80 flat rate shipping to Trijicon so that they could inspect the broken screw/bolt that holds the front sight in. They call me and tell me that since they don't have the front sight, they cannot do anything but offer to charge me ~$55 if I ship my slide to them to install a replacement. I told them that for $90 I could buy a new set and install them myself. I even told them that I had quite a few Trijicon products and was contemplating an ACOG someday. Since I did not have the front sight, they could not warranty it.   I sent a long letter to their customer service telling them what I thought. A month or so later (maybe two), UPS alerted me that a package will be delivered from Trijicon the next day. I thought "WooHoo! That letter worked!".   They spent ~$1 or more to ship me back the broken screw.   I'll be trying Meprolight or Tru-Glo next time.   I was left with an extreme distaste in my mouth from every step I dealt with them. The kicker is that from the very beginning, I asked them before I sent the screw in whether they could do anything with it and without the front sight, all they could say was to send it in. Had they initially said "we cannot warranty a product based upon a screw" I would have at least been neutral.

Just for you to readup on:   http://www.tngunowners.com/forums/topic/56643-glocks-trijcons/#entry985375 (read the whole thread, but I linked specifically to the post of issue).

  Yeah I bought it. Don't even have a mount for it or any .22lr that I'd want to shoot. PS, I used the price match request on SWFA.com. If they approve it, the price will be roughly $105, even better! I bought it from MidwayUSA though so that I wouldn't miss out by accident.

  If the trigger on a Glock is not pulled it will not fire. How hard is that to compute?   Now, the better question is are you sure the draw string was the problem instead of the operator's finger?

Never got around to purchasing this scope, but I think I will now!   http://www.midwayusa.com/product/353448/product?cm_mmc=pe_weekly-_-hotbuy-_-full_nikon_20140319_1-_-Main_Image   $109.95 Shipped   I just wish Rimfire wasn't expensive! That's the only reason I've held off on purchasing it.  

I want to try a rechargeable Streamlight but I haven't found one I like. I haven't look too hardly at them, but do they have one that is easily pocketable for EDC, has a pocket clip that allows for bezel down carry, tailcap switch that does not switch modes, and hopefully a super duper "low" mode accessible in some fashion.   I had the Quark Pro QP2A and put a tactical tailcap on it. I liked it but I decided I disliked the mode switching because I kept strobing myself in the dark due to the long reset time. I sold in in effort to find something else and ended up just buying the Quark Tactical QT2A.   I think my next purchase will either be the Quark Turbo QB2A (mainly because I think it is slightly higher construction quality and I want to see which parts will "lego" with my QT2A head) or the Maelstrom MMR-X (because it supports USB charging and runs off of a single 18650). I think it would be too large for an EDC light but it would be nice for a chargeable home light.   The "Quark" line of lights is really nice, but their build quality is not as awesome as Surefire or Streamlight. However, I think the Maelstrom and Quark Turbo lines are a bit better. I felt of a friend's older Maelstrom, it felt as solid as a Mag-Lite and just as heavy too.   My QT2A gets here today alongside my BC-700 AA Ni-Mh charger. The package of Eneloops that I purchased came with a charger, but a charger such as the BC-700 has many options and gives you information on the battery as well. I figured that for $30 I would give it a try. Review on both items soon!

[quote name="jonathon1289" post="1126624" timestamp="1395183741"]Amazon has the TLr-1s for $93. Even with tax that is the best price I have seen and I think it is worth trying since it seems to fit my needs. I may save up and get a Surefire for my AR. Not sure yet, still comparing but leaning towards the TLR-1s.[/quote] You'll be happy with it. But when you upgrade to the Surefire, you will be happier. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

To put things into perspective, SAS does something (not as extreme) similar:   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Killing_House   http://www.mirror.co.uk/news/uk-news/day-princess-diana-joined-sas-147138  

[quote name="bersaguy" post="1126458" timestamp="1395166478"]I only have one auto pay bill and that is netflix. I pay all my bills either on line or with a check each month. I have never really put that much trust in the auto pay programs even though my bank has told me that they will protect me from any possible abuse of it I just don't have that kind of trust in utility companies and other people having access to my bank accounts.............jmho[/quote] The majority of my auto bill payments are setup on my bank's side. The E-Bill gets sent to my bank. There are settings on my online banking that I can set (pay when bill arrives, pay 10 days before due, pay 3 days before due, etc). I trust it more than making payments in the mail. In fact, the only issue I have had since adopting the strategy is one time my bank sent my rent payment via USPS (a it always does), and USPS lost it. It was taken care of though. Keep in mind, if you pay by check "they" already have your account information. It is printed on the bottom of the check:) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Magic Jelly Bean was what I used. I think I will try this on my wife's laptop. Running stupid OEM Windows. If I can successfully download one of the official .iso's I'll give it a go.

Surefire X300 Ultra   You could give me two Streamlights and I would sell them both to fund an X300 Ultra. I compared my Surefire to a buddy's TLR-1. The difference was astounding. The Streamlight will get the job done, the Surefire will excel at the job and ask for (and deserve) a promotion. I know it is a few more $, but save a little bit more for another few weeks and go for it.

So PalmSlap got slapped on the wrist?   EPIC!

http://www.fox5vegas.com/story/24914685/womans-auto-payments-hid-her-death-for-six-years   Now, I use auto-pay for all of my bills and love it. Since I use YNAB I have no worries of over-drafting, ever.   Buy wow, six years without being found? 

[quote name="Oh Shoot" post="1126042" timestamp="1395104516"]No mystery about the Lusitania, hundreds of survivors too. - OS[/quote] Sure. A passenger boat being sunk by a sub is going to leave more survivors than an airliner struck by a SAM. Same concept if need be. Not saying that is what happened but it has just as much possibility having happened as many of the theories floating around. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[quote name="TankerHC" post="1126033" timestamp="1395103087"]Hey, I am not a Pilot. Guess I'm going to have to come up with another theory. So here's one. This whole thing bears a great number of similarities to the USS Eldridge incident. I bet if a reporter were to ask the US Navy would deny this one also. Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 2[/quote] Interesting. I was thinking it was possibly quite close to the Lusitania. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  Buyers do not matter if there are terror plots in store for the plane or if a country wanted it done for political reasons.   Not saying that it was stolen or hidden, but think about this.   If the plane was indeed headed in another direction, that means that either the pilots or someone on the plane decided it was going in another direction. Were someone hellbent on suicide, why fly the plane in another direction for so long? Why not just crash the plane immediately? If they changed direction for a certain amount of time without intentionally crashing the plane, they were either headed somewhere or lost due to an equipment malfunction (I'm not a pilot but I assume equipment could fail and cause loss of precise direction). If they were headed to a specific location, they either got there or were shot down by a foreign government/crashed. Perhaps it was a flight 93 type accident; The pilots/hijackers were up to no good and the passengers became aware and put a stop to it by crashing the plane. If they arrived, that means that there is a conspiracy (literally, two or more people had to have been involved).   Or this is all fabricated to take the west's eyes off of what is going on in Russia and the Ukraine. Perhaps Putin is even behind it himself.   Or maybe it crashed into a vast ocean and it will take years to find it, but what is the likelihood of that?

Awesome. I did borrow his recovery discs that he had burnt. It is now up and running and downloading all one million Windows updates. It was on SP1 when it was first installed.   Thanks!

  That explains a lot. On the bottom of the computer there is a code for Windows. However, I use free open source software to export the key from his installation. They were different. They key I exported is a legitimate Windows key, isn't it?   And then of course, since I have never had to type in the key when installing from an OEM recovery disc, it's burnt onto the disc isn't it?   Thus, if someone could get one of the .iso's downloaded, you could install a 100% Microsoft version of Windows 7 with no added bloatware, right?

  I forgot to mention the coupon, but I did use it. So I went with the separator version. How do you get by without the separator?