Luke E.

Eww That changes things all around huh. I didn't understand you were looking at multiple charges. I'll keep my eyes open for any of those parts for you.

I'm not sure of anywhere that would carry those bits of an LPK but i know with gas hovering around $3.50 it wouldn't take much driving around to make that $8 S&H charge look right nice. Good luck with the hunt.

  Also i completely agree with you on the pressing in most every case but this is one of the things that i've found that responds well to being jarred. If you can drill and tap it first and still leave yourself enough meat to drive against if the thread pull out then maybe you should go with that first.

   It is definitely a better idea to pull the decapping rod and use a dowel, rod or drill bit to drive it out but in my case i couldn't get it out. I wouldn't have suggested using the decapping rod if it had been anything other than a Lee die because they have a super heavy shaft. I've only been around Lee, Dillon and RCBS dies so those are the only ones i can speak to. I beat the piss out of my Lee decapping rod and after using the Dremel to clean up the bit of mushrooming the rod and die were no worse for wear. Was i lucky? Maybe but like you said, the decapping rod is better than a die.

   I'm glad to hear that your pleased with your purchase because in the end that is all that matters!

 I did this first on the last one that i had stuck. The problem i discovered with doing this first is that once i had done my drilling and tapping and the threads just pulled out and then moved one step bigger which also pulled out. At this point I thought hey this isn't working i just need to go to pounding it out, this is the point where i felt like an idiot for drilling and tapping first because the hole was now closer to the size of the case mouth which left me with almost nothing to drive the rod against.  There are many ways to skin a cat in most anything you do but this is why i suggest doing it the other way first because you can always go back and start drilling and tapping  

 I make no claims to know much on the subject but i believe i still have analog service at my place, or at least available. I say this because the lines haven't been updated in 15 years or more. AT&T doesn't offer any service other than standard home phone and old school dial up internet due to the old phone lines. They were about to update them about 8 years ago which would have allowed us to have DSL internet but the government started talking about subsidizing the running of the updated lines to provide rural areas with internet.. All this accomplished was A. the phone company froze most all new line updates and B. gave congress the opportunity to start up a couple new committees to make it look like they are doing something to help their rural constituents. Notice it did nothing to help the rural constituents but rather hurt us due to the phone company not wanting to spend money that they may get for free with a little patience.   Anywho back to my original statement/question, doesn't this mean i still have true analog? Or were you refering to something done within the phone company that makes it no true analog?

 !st i'd pull the decapping rod out and find a steel rod or drill bit you don't mind donating to the cause. Use as big of a rod or bit as willl fit in the case and drive the case out. You'll prolly need to set it up on a vise to do this and you will have to knock the piss out of it but this SHOULD get it out.. If you can't get the decapping rod out i did once use it to drive the case out but you want to hit it hard so you don't have to keep hitting it and mushroom the end more than absolutely necessary. Assuming this works you can clean the end of the rod back up with a dremel.  If for some reason this doesn't work you'll have to start drilling and tapping the primer pocket, next slide a socket over the case but smaller than the die, next stick a bolt with heavy washer through the socket and thread into the case that you threaded and start tightening.    I've stuck 2 .223 cases before and was able to pound out the 1st with the decapping rod but the 2nd i drilled and tapped until i ran out of brass then gave up and bought a new die. Good luck with the removal.

It came over as i was walking to the car after church. I wasn't 100% what it was but all makes sense now.

We just had ours cut off recently.If all you have is an analog phone line and you won't or can't get cable and/or internet through them they treat you like a steaming pile. At least with AT&T that's the way it is. I have never heard of such bad customer service, they spoke to my wife in a way that made me (and them) glad they were in another country and lied about the service they were selling us and we received 2 bills before anyone ever showed up to set the line up. Sorry for the vent but maybe it will save someone the trouble in the future. I've got a fax line at the office in Murfreesboro so if you don't get it cured tonight feel free to contact me in the morning and come on out and download to your hearts content.

I think checking with the sheriffs dept. is where you need to go. I know in Rutherford county (and the rest i believe but not sure) as long as you are outside the city limits and have a safe place to shoot, you are good to go. As far as the noise goes, as long as it is daylight hours when normally folks would be awake you should be pretty safe there. I have had a couple guys i know local that before firing the first shot at their new properties they called and had a deputy come out and look over the area and once he said he didn't see anything that concerned him they took off with no worries.

I very seldom do but mine get fired pretty heavy under two instances which are, 1- Sometimes i will lay a box of skeet all around a 3 sided pit and race through them and 2- I try to take as many "never shot before" people shooting as i can and they seem to love dumping a few mags through an AR pretty quick. My sister is engaged to an Irishmen and a couple weeks ago him and a friend were down from Toronto where they live and work. Now bear in mind Ireland has really strict gun laws and there is 1 non military owned 9mm pistol in the country and other than a few .22's that is not only the only 9mm but also the only non .22 pistol period!!! When i took them to the range they went through about 800 rounds of pistol, 300 rounds of .22lr, 400 rounds of .223 and about 200 rounds of 20ga. Needles to say it was a looong day! Anyways back to the point, After they shot the AR the barrel was some kinda hot and that on top of the normal bullet to barrel friction heat is what i was curious about. It seems you think this is probably a none issue and i tend to agree but thought i'd ask.

That's awesome! About the clean barrel I mean. I'm assuming the answer will be no or you would have mentioned it but, is there any chance for PC transfer to a really hot AR barrel? Like say you dumped 3-4 mags through it in short order.

 In the pint size (or whatever the large size is) yogurt container half or a bit more full of bullets i add about 2-3 drops of Alox which you can barely tell a visual difference in color. I'm not meaning goupy thick amounts kind of sticky but the gullets do transfer some lube to the inside of the seating die and it transfers to the case of the next one and the next to the next. It is more lightly tacky rather than sticky i suppose but putting any less and i may as well not use any lube because there won't be enough to get down in the grooves of each bullets. Also if i reduce the amount any further, leading starts becoming a real issue.   Also with the Blackout build drawing to an end, from what you said this process will allowing me to cast bullets for my supersonic rounds without leading problems.

Going to have to get on this pretty quick. I hate the alox and other lube for several reasons (it's nasty, the loaded rounds are sticky and nasty. It makes the inside of my magazines sticky causing dirt and grit to stick to them, just to name a few) but for lack of anything better i have been using them anyways. The fact that this may open up the use of pure lead is exciting as well not having to worry about POI changing to to varying amounts of lead in the barrel. Thanks for the write-up Dolomite!!

Enjoy your purchase!

I completely agree! Tri Green has been around for a minute and must being doing something right. I live and grew up in a rural area outside of murfreesboro and know a lot of the farmers as well as landscapers around and have never heard anything bad out of them. Sure helps to give a reason if you're going to give such a bad review.

Honestly in my opinion, most all of the big names in the commercial mower world are going to be more than adequate for most any homeowner. I'd say if your getting it at a large discount and you still have 3yrs warranty on it, it would be awful hard to go wrong with it.

A friend of mine has that same mower i believe. I know it has the same engine and from the google pics it looks the same. His isn't new but has been a great mower for him. They have about 220 acres between him and his mother (all part of the same farm) with full motocross track 3 houses on the property with decent size yards. The yards get mowed every week (6-8 acres) the track about once a month (5-6 acres) his mom mows all over the place with it probably adding on another 10 acres per month and some of that is pretty rough. To my knowledge theyve had no problems other than replacing the fuel lines and filter from our piss poor gas. I think it would serve your purpose well.

I've got a Toro Z Master with the Kohler engine and 60" deck but it's a carb model. I purchased it well used and it had a deck bearing rattling. I replaced that and took off and 3 1/2 years later it has cut countless acres of grass ranging from lawn grass to out in the waist and chest high fields (probably should have used the bush hog but the mower was quicker because of size). I've not been on any later model Skags so i can't really compare the 2 but i can say that the Toro is a great and very tough mower. If i was buying new, with my bad back i would have to take a look at the Skag with suspension. Good luck with the decision.

What barrel did you buy? Or did you have a custom one built to order?

Thanks! I'll go check that out.

Just curious what I would need to turn it down to. What brand gas block do you run and would you recommend it or something else?

Yea I've looked at that and if I go with CMMG I will turn the barrel down. What size is the pad on yours? I think you might have mentioned above but just curious what gas block I'm looking for.

I saw that they did but it said that they just do seasonal runs. I've got to start remodeling the upstairs of our house so this build may have to take a back burner for a bit unless I find stuff at a real deal. If I get just a bit closer to my birthday I might talk the wife into an early birthday barrel lol