glockster157

Miracle of miracles, they actually showed up today. I am not going to retract anything I have said as I have filed complaints with at least 3 government agencies, PayPal, as many forums as I had time to get on and the BBB. So I am not sure I got them out of the goodness of his heart or he realized I was not going to stop. Regardless, I have them after nearly 4 months but my warning stands. "Caveat Emptor!!"

I have my wife digging through statements trying to find the charge, I have the date. If the kits are not in my hands by Friday I am going to dispute it. His MO has been to ship "IF" a transaction gets disputed. At least that is a pattern I have noticed from searching other posts. Let's see how promise #3 works out.

Miracle of miracle, after 3 months, I called Brooks one more time and he answered the phone. I asked him what does it take to get a trigger kit out of him? He promises to send the kits out right away. I am holding my bated breath. If I get them fine but I had this same conversation 3 months ago. I will keep you posted.

I have a 452 American, a 452 Silhouette and a 452 Lux in 22mag. I got the 22 mag at a ridiculous price so I had a friend mill off the rear sight, they are banded on the Lux model, I filed it down to match the barrel contour and cut the front sight off and put a 11 degree target crown in it. Sounds bad but came out great. I found some Fiochi ammo that will shoot a ragged hole at 25 and 50 yards. The first 2 in 22 lr will stack Wolf match target into the same hole at 25 with boring regularity.

I know that now but at this point I do not think I wish to line EB's pockets any further. YoDave I will give a try. I emailed him earlier. I have the triggers pretty good now, they are adjustable. I may get one of his and do one myself kinda like EB's. YoDave uses some kind if shims where Brooks uses tubes over the trigger retention pins.

Trigger kits for my CZ's. I have 3 CZ452's and I had heard good things about his kits. I may never know...actually, if you go to his website and look at the pics, I can probably make one myself. It looks pretty simple. I was just taking th eeasy way out and ordering kits.

There is a guy on line named Eric Brooks that runs a website called CZ452.com. All I can say is order from this guy at your own risk. I did not read some of the other forums before I did and I did not use Pay Pal so I have been burned. It has been 3 months and no parts. I have emailed and called repeatedly with no response of any type yet he is still selling to others, many report they do not get their parts either. The ones that get their disputes filed in time usually do, what does that tell you. I'm out 50 bucks and he is laughing all the way to the bank. I am challenging the charge, filing complaints, contacting local authorities but now it is just becoming my hobby to try to slow this guy down.

I'm a Dillon fan myself. They not only work well but have a real warranty. I have used it a few times, even after 25 years. I like the 550 though over the 650. I like to be in control of when the shell plate advances. One of the things I did not like about the Lee or the older Hornady progressives. And the Lee priming system gave me fits, I don't care what the guy in the article says. I would get a Lee if i needed lots of pistol ammo and could not afford one of the other two.

I have been shooting 231 for years in my 45acp's, 9mm's and 38's. I shoot 5.2 to 5.4 with a 225 lead truncated bullets. I don't think 5.5 is way hot, a lot depends on the gun. I have had 45's that I had to push the charge a little to get velocity. Brass and primer can also make a difference. If you are not getting any pressure signs, really flat primers, cratering around firing pin strike, brass flowing, etc. I would not worry about it. I have used 6.0 with my 200 lead semi wadcutters, As to length, pretty much best to keep it short enough to easily fit in a 1911 magazine not a Sig 220 mag. Or make it the same dimensions as a factory cartridge is usually a good fall back position. To really raise pressures you would have to seat the bullet pretty deep, one other draw back to deep seating is feeding problems and it can make it harder to crimp properly. BTW, HP38 is the exact same powder as 231. I verified that with Hogdon.

Now that just ain't right, :-\

What are you trying to sell the mini thirty for?

Same here, I am close to Briley PKWY exit 24 and Hwy-12/Ashland City Hwy. About 4 miles from the exit and I would be glad to let you use and examine my 550B. Email me at glockshooter@comcast.net

I picked up a set of these Durachrome dies many moons ago in one of my many trades and I have never used them. I know they are not carbide and I did not want to mess with lubing 357 cases. Curiosity got the better of me tonight and I stuck the sizer in my Rock Chucker to see what would happen. The little sucker sized a bunch of 38 cases with no lube and not much effort. I was shocked. Does anybody have any knowledge or first hand experience with these Hornady-Pacific dies?

Cool, I have always wanted to try these and I have a 308. I'll have to get me some...

Found this on Gunbroker Browning A5 Design 12 Ga. by Daiwa Neat Gun! : Semi-auto at GunBroker.com

Exactly, they vary in length and case mouth size for each caliber.

I have a 642, hard to beat for size and weight, it is my pocket gun. I have a Glock 27 with a clipdraw and a trigger block, it is my carry gun w/o holster. I have a SW 3913 9mm, it is my holster carry gun. Here is a interesting link/opinion on the 3913. http://www.thegunzone.com/3913nl.html these three guns are staying in my arsenal, everything else is fair game to get swapped around.

OK, a conversion kit comes in a little blue box and has 3 things in it. The shell plate is a round metal plate with 4 cutouts for each press station operation. To keep the brass case in each position but make it possible to remove the case if needed, 3 brass buttons/pins go into holes at the edge of the press plate the keep the cases in the proper position in the shellholder. I hope you can picture this, it is really simple. So, in the case of the 9mm, the 40SW is just a little larger in the rim so you can use the same shell plate but smaller brass buttons/pins to keep the case in place. Since the 45acp and any 06 based case are the same head size(same shell holder) you do not need to buy a complete conversion kit. Drop tubes come in two types. For a straight walled case, it does replace the expander/bell die and does this as it lifts the powder measure to drop the powder charge. For bottle necked cases, it just lifts the powder measure by hitting a lip the same size as the case mouth and causes the powder measure to lift and drop the charge. I hope yo can see now, if you have a 308 winchester and a 6mm remington, 270, 45acp, all you need is a conversion kit and the 3 drop tubes/neck expanders(if needed) for the other 3.

I would suggest building a nice AR lower with the parts of your choosing, then you can have several different uppers in various calibers if you wish. You can have a flat top scoped with a heavy barrel, a shorty with a quick sight or open sights, 6.8SPC, 223, 9mm or even 7.62x39. Plus, the ammo cost for 5.56 is a lot less than 7.62x51/308 Winchester.

Actually don't see a lot of difference in the trigger styles between the Glock and the M&P. I am carrying the Glock today as I did not want to use a holster, I have a belt clip and a trigger block for the Glock. I need to see if they make them for the M&P.

You have to specify what gun. There is so many different things to look for. Like on a revolver, I check timing on each chamber, the barrel cylinder gap, end shake, hammer push off, I look for buggered screws to see if hase been gone into, I like to take the grips off and check the main spring and strain screw if it has one and of course check the condition of the barrel, rifling, chambers and crown of the muzzle. On autos, it really depends on the type. A Glock needs very little inspection. Do the numbers match on the barrel, slide and frame? Look at the barrel and ramp, check to make sure it has not been dropped...never had a bad Glock. 1911's, a lot more complicated, same kinda thing, I would suggest reading articles just on the 1911 as it is too much to cover here. Most other autos, it is like previous poster stated, Check barrel ramp, overall wear, most modern guns are carried a lot and shot very little, I have rarely had a bad one.

Ran across a deal on a M&P 40c this weekend. Nice little pistol. About the same size as my 27. I like SW's magazine disconnect though I know many don't. I have had a lot of SW autos but that is just my preference. I like that it has regular rifling so I can shoot lead. Shoots well for the little bit I got to shoot it. I love the grip inserts....I might become M&Pster157 if this keeps up.

Nice Jewel, looks like your going to be crankin as soon as you get some primers. I just got a chance to fire mine up after I got it back from Dillon after the rebuild. Mine was a 1984 model. It has seen a lot of rounds over the years. Dillon completely rebuilt it to look just like yours for $44.95 after 25 years of use including a new powder measure. Great company. AS to caliber conversions. A lot of cases use the same shell plate. Like to do 40 SW when you have a 9mm setup, you need 40SW buttons and a expander/drop tube and a set of 40SW dies of course. That is it...same shell plate. Same for the 308 Winchester and 45ACP. Same shell plate and buttons all you need is a different drop tube. 308 is the same as 30-06, 25-06, 257 roberts, 243, 270, 7-08, etc, etc. Though I never load those rifle rounds in the Dillon, I use a Rock Chucker. But as I was telling Jewel, until you get one, you can use the first station on the Dillon like a single stage to do all the same operations as a single stage.

If the rimless straight walled case is to short and is being held by the extractor, then when the firing pin strikes the primer, the case can move forward and not receive enough force to fire. I have heard of folks shooting 40SW's in 10MM's if the extractor would hold the case tightly enough. If the case is roll crimped instead of taper crimped, then the case mouth can move past the chamber lip that the case is suppose to stop/headspace on. When the cartridge fires the case cannot expand at that point because the case has been jammed into the bullet, so it holds onto the bullet until enough pressure is created to push the bullet out of that case. Usually this can cause a severe over pressure situation. Admittedly, this is hard to do with a pistol case but it can be done fairly easily with bottle necked rifle cases that have not been trimmed and are heavily roll crimped.

I lucked into a SW 40c M&P today at the show. I will do a update/comparison down the road, after I have had a chance to really shoot it.