glockster157

After thinking about it, I still want a Navy and probably several others but I think I really want a Richards-Mason conversion repro. The shape and feel with 38 specials would be really cool. Still want the cap and ball guns too but then I could shoot when I didn't have time to go thru the black powder bath.

Careful now!, Large rifle primers are longer than large pistol primers and hotter. You should not be able to seat LR primers flush in a pistol case which means there will be some protrusion.

Y'all are making this way too complicated....I have a 45-70 and it is fun to shoot, I have a Polish Tantal and it is fun to shoot. If I didn't reload and cast bullets I would be able to enjoy the 5.45 Tantal but probably not the 45-70, factory ammo costing what it does for that caliber. Same with my 375 Win, 375 H&H and 458 Win, etc. So if you want to pay 300 per K get a 7.62x39 and if you want to pay 139 per K get a 5.45x39...or just get one of each and shoot them with both.

I will keep it in mind but don't get east very much.

The biggest problem I have had with my Tantal is I can't seem to stop pulling the trigger or get the pudding smile off of my face. It is a lot of fun to shoot and knowing the cost isn't horrendous really helps. I stick in a 30 round mag and before you know it, it's gone.

I just took an inventory and I have way too many large rifle primers and I am running low on large pistol. I have 1 to 5 K available.

Are EMF C&B guns any good? I am thinking of getting a steel framed 1851 Navy in 36 caliber and they have a good price on theirs?

As to ammo cost again, you can get 1080 tins of 5.45 for around 130-150 dollars. Check out ammoseek.com , the 5.45 is running .13 a round and the 7.62 is .18 cents a round. I bought the 5.45 in quantity so I know it has been holding at that price for a while. 7.62 seems to rise more easily. As to effectiveness, that is the same 308 vs. 223 argument we have about US ammo. One thing about the Russian military round though, they designed it with a hollow nose so that on impact the weight could shift forward and tumble. We redesigned the 5.56 in the M855 with a steel core so that it would not tumble and goes straight through. The 5.45 is more destructive to humans from what I have read and the anecdotal field reports from Afghanistan, mainly from the Russian occupation period.

One other thought, never ever under any circumstances buy American Ammo, head stamp A-Merc. I have never seen such poor brass, even from the worst imports. As to American makers, R-P is probably the most popular but I have never had a problem with Win, Fed, PMC, Speer, Frontier(Hornady), Norma, Star(usually thicker) or Mag-Tech. I think WW makes a lot of the brass for the others anyways.

Watch out for Berdan primed cases also. There is a lot of imported military brass cased pistol and rifle ammo, but if it is out of Europe it is most likely Berdan primed and not reloadable. Just shot up a bunch of 9mm yesterday that was like that.

Yes, there is a gun show in Knoxville this weekend...too far for me though.

If ammo cost is an issue then the 5.45x39 is by far the cheaper way to go. The Russian military is corrosive so if you pick a rifle without a chrome lined barrel you need to be aware and just keep it clean. I just spray Dollar store Windex down my Tantal before I leave the range and pull a snake through it, then finish cleaning when I get home. Probably not necessary as I could probably wait until I get home but it makes me feel better.

Thanks, I guess that answers that question.

All it says under the loading lever is A.S.M. Black Powder Only Made in Italy

I got this CVA 1860 Army but CVA was only the importer, they bought them from Uberti and Peitti. I think this is a Ubertie but I am not sure. The only marks on it other than CVA and made in Italy on the barrel are these stamps on the underside of the frame.

I have always wanted to try a cap and ball revolver and I finally got my chance. I picked up a CVA Uberti import 1860 army. I had to fake it a little, all I have on hand is Pyrodex RS with is 2F not 3F and I had some .457 round balls instead of .454 but they worked. I Have some number 11 caps and just used Crisco over ball for lube. Anyways, I was very impressed with the point-ability of the Colt 1860 model. I have read so much about it but I must admit I was surprised. I set a B29 silhouette at 15 yards and just did a quick cross draw, cock a fire by pointing at center mass. I was nailing the center of the target everytime. Out of 24 shots I only missed one shot and that one was the third group and I was aiming high intentionally to get a cleaner spot on the target and I pulled one just past his right ear. I will say that after 3 cylinders it gets pretty fouled and fighting with those spent caps was a pain. I would like to try that again with wads as I am sure it would be less messy than crisco. Clean up is a pain. I washed it in the sink in soap and water. Don't have a clue how to get those grips off. I am struggling whether to keep this thing or sell it but it sure is pretty.

I just picked up my first ever real Colt SAA. After 10 rounds I looked down and the base pin latch was gone. Found the base pin nut but the base pin screw and spring are lost forever I guess. Anybody got a spare they can bring to the Nashville show tomorrow? I will be by the roll up door on the right. reply here and I will pm my cell number. glockster157@comcast.net

I picked up a Colt SAA and I have a total of 60 decent 45 Colt cases but I have a bunch of 45acp, 40 SW, 357, 38, etc.

That probably happened in the store not at the factory...I doubt they are even produced on the same line or area, definitely not at the same time.

If I am not mistaken, In this state, even commissioned police officers have to do the background check unless they are buying the gun for duty use on official letterhead through their departments. At least they used too when the instant check started. When I had the FFL before instant check you could sell on with only the badge number and ID.

That was the first thing I did was measure the barrel with a ball gauge, it was .215". One thing I noticed was that on the Russian military surplus ammo, the bullet tapers from nose to tail and that it only measured .215" at the case mouth. I pulled a bullet and it measured .221" below the case mouth all the way to the base. So all these guys showing a loaded round inserted all the way into a new Century barrel's muzzle means nothing.

I had heard so much about bullet tumbling with these I was concerned. Not to worry, no tumbling here. It was 100 degrees out so I was soaked in short order, but I was able to shoot a few 100 yard B29 targets. I forgot tools so I couldn't lower the front sight but with the rear sight set to 500 yards I was able to keep my shots in the middle of the B29. My glasses were covered in sweat, my clothes were soaked, so I can't brag about group size, I was using the Russian military ammo, but I was hitting inside the 8 ring easily. I have to figure a way to get a rear peep sight on this rifle. I think I can do some really decent groups once I can see the targets better as it has a good trigger. The notched military sights suck. It was a ton of fun and it was hard to keep my finger from pounding the trigger, I think this is a good 200-250 yard minute-of-man rifle, equal at least, but in MHO, better than a mini 14, but no way this compares to a an AR. But with ammo costing under 150 per 1080 it is cheap to shoot.

Yep, I don't plan on following the Geneva Convention.

I am not much of a a shotgunner so I know I am speaking out of turn. I like CZ's and I am sure the Brownings and Berettas are good but I did buy a Yildiz one time. really clean, nice wood, did have a aluminum frame so was kinda light but I got it in 20ga, had a 3 year warranty from Briley's. Got it for like 350 at Academy. If you are not going to shoot a bunch it might be worth considering.

I would take a 3rd, if ain't broke don't fix it, I don't want to be someones guinea pig, and since the 4th gen is out and since you really can't hurt a Glock, find a clean used 3rd Gen one for around 400 to 450 depending on condition and accessories and save the bucks.