glockster157

Picked up an interesting rifle. It is a Interarms Mark X mauser in 300 Win Mag. Caliber is not my favorite and one I do not reload for so I was not that excited about the rifle. But when I got to cleaning it up I found some things of interest. It is a Whitworth model with a Yugoslovian action. It has been bedded in the locking lug area and it has the fully adjustable trigger. It has sights on the barrel and came with the high/low rings but I am not a big fan of those. I have lots of rings so I need to dig out some steel bases for them. I temporarily stuck some talleys on it but I am saving those for another project. It has some nice wood and a 24" barrel. I may have to get some dies and brass and load some up. This is NOT my rifle but it looks just like it minus the butt pad...mine has the plain black one. May have to replace that. Ouch.

I may just try and find and 1100 trigger group to replace this one. It might be easier. LOL!

Here is a link to an article on how to install with pics. I guess I will take it apart and start here. http://www.xdtalk.com/forums/shotgun-talk/143794-install-daves-metal-works-easyloader-remington-1100-12ga-56k-beware.html

The original carrier is still there, This part just fits under it and kind of hangs out, It is my understanding that they use some kind of tube loader to speed load these shotguns in 3 gun competition. This is obvilously going to take some study. I need to learn more about shotguns anyways.

I finally got my account activated over at HK pro forum so I am sure I will get schooled on it. First one I have ever owned and shot. Really cool pistol. DA only, about like a revolver, 18 round mag, straight blowback, built like a tank. Weird front sight but it works.

I have a Remington 1100 I am redoing. I got it mostly right except when I actually shoot it with live shells the bolt hangs back in the open position. I can push the bolt with my thumb and it will close. I have another 1100 and you cannot push the bolt forward on it when it is locked back. Now, this shotgun has had an extended carrier added...looks like this http://www.midwayusa.com/product/786587/daves-metal-works-easyloader-extended-carrier-release-bar-remington-1100-12-gauge-steel-silver When I pull it down it will lock back. So I have to assume it is not fitted properly. I do most of my own work but I have never really worked on the timing on an 1100. One other thing, it has a 10 shot tube, I need a new spring so I went ahead and stretched this one. Even with the extra tension it does the same thing. I don't mind ordering a few parts as I need to get that spring anyways so I am trying to figure out which parts.

I have had several and the only trouble I have had was on one the barrel nut came unscrewed. It was an easy fix, I just tightened it back up...no big deal. I had another with a loose forearm and if memory serves I had to rebend the rear sight base to fix that. Other than that I didn't have any other trouble. They were average plinkers, fun shooters.

I picked up a HK VP70Z the other day. Cool pistol from the 70's. Don't know much about these. It is in the box with the extra mag(18 rounders), It has the manual, test target and the mag separator cardboard. I have heard the triggers are bad DA only but I did not find it bad at all. What can you tell me about these? http://www.examiner.com/slideshow/hk-vp70z Not my gun but exactly like it.

Typically to tighten any revolver you would replace either the hand(pawl) or both the hand and the rachet(star). I would just shoot it first and see. It doesn't have to be perfect to shoot well. Keep your barrel cylinder gap at .006". I doubt you have 1/32" of play. That would be .031". That would be a ton.

Dan Wessons were noted for very good accuracy. There were several design factors that were responsible for that. The cylinder locked both front and rear, the barrel was stiffened by the barrel nut in the front, the cylinder pawl held the cylinder tight on firing(like a colt), triggers were decent. The downside was they could shoot loose if shot with a lot of heavy loads. they could be tightened back up rather easily with a few parts. I don't remember why DW went under. I think the auto pistol craze and Silhouette shooting dropped off probably had a lot to do with it.

I am not sure what year is was made but I had one just like it around 1984. I think I still have a compact wood grip for one somewhere.

NO, you will never be able to elimate enough variables to pull that off. Make a good warm load and learn to hold under with a 2 or 300 yard zero.

I have never been a big Taurus fan. I never thought of them as bad guns, just not great guns. I recently acquired a titanium ported 7 shot 357 mag model 617. Interesting revolver, only weighs 19.9 ounces and carries quite a punch. Timing seems good, barrel cylinder gap is a little iffy(has a little end shake there) trigger is stiff but smooth. Just curious if anyone has had any real experience with one of these? http://www.taurususa.com/product-details-include.cfm?id=262&category=Pistol

Since I am a big SW 3913 fan and keep one around, the thumb safety is not a big issue for me. Either don't use it or remove it. But if you also like carrying 1911's cocked and locked, keeping a thumb safety on the compact to keep up muscle memory is not a bad thing. I used to try and switch up between a Glock and a 1911 and I hate to admit that if I did not keep up with my practice I would sometimes fail to disengage the safety on the 1911 under stress. I am older now so it is either Glocks, revolvers or safeties off when holstered.Oh, I too want to check one of these out as I like the M&P's better than Glocks.

I don't understand why this is a Ruger problem? Many companies, like Davidson's/Talo/Lew Horton, take guns and make "upgrades" to them in finish or configuration. If Ruger did the finish for Talo then it is a Ruger problem. If not it is a Talo problem. Neither way is it really a dealer problem as he did not make or modify the pistol. All warranties revert to the manufacturer, though most dealers are glad to assist.

Well I think I should have spoken more to the attitude of the rep thought he product is unimpressive also. I am always going to stick to my Ohaus 10-10 scale....I might try a different brand digital again one day but it will not be a Pact or one made by them.

That is what I was using this one for...quick bullet weight checks on jacketed bullets but cast bullets in particular. I gave up on trusting it for powder charges about an hour out of the box....it is a joke. That is one reason I took so long to call Pact....as long as it was working good enough for generalities I had a use for it.

No, I have fought with the fluctuations. I don't have a ceiling fan, and I do not have a direct hvac vent in the reloading room. I would just call this scale defective as it will not calibrate, neither will it zero. It starts to climb and will keep going up until it starts flashing error. I tried to explain this to the Pact CS rep but he didn't seem to care. He just kept telling me that the scale is very sensitive and most of the time it is the environment it is in. And don't use the DC adapter and leave the battery out of the compartment and this and that.........I guess I should put my left foot in a bucket and my right elbow in my ear, it might work then.

Time for a rant. I have a Pact BBK 2 powder scale. It acts weird most of the time but if you don't breathe on it and stand back a few feet it normally works. Lately it has gotten worse. It will not zero nor will it calibrate. I even put up a special shelf for it so there would be no breeze or vibrations effecting it. Still no good. So I call Pact and the guy tells me these scales are really sensitive and that it is probably something in the environment causing the problem. He tells me not to use the AC adapter that comes with it as this can throw it off. Then he tells me to leave the battery out of the compartment as this works better. I am doing this stuff a he is telling me. Still does not work. Then he blames static on the shelf since it is plexiglass, so I move it back to my wood work bench....still dancing numbers. He says "I am sure it is something wrong there but if you want to send it to us we will look at it.".....I just told him that I had already read a bunch of bad reviews on this scale and that most people had the same customer service experience I just experienced. All I can say is there will never be another PACT product in this house.

There was a show on one of the shooting channels last week. Now they were supposed professional gunsmiths and they did all the warnings as I do also but they did all kinds of bad thinks to an old Spanish imported single shot .410 shotgun. They used a shooting vise and stood back some distance pulling the trigger with a string. They shot 444 Marlin in it, 30-30, several others and even a couple of 454 Casulls. It never bulged the barrel nor did it open the full choke up which stayed at .387. Of course this was a stunt and could be disengenious, it is TV, but it was interesting.

Saws one today at the Nashville show. Guy was walking it. One of the grip panels was sloppy loose but it looked good other than that. Guy was only wanting 750 for it.

And one other caveat, they don't recommend doing this in 9mm.....I don't know, if I had the Lee Crimp die and was going to resize it anyways, I would give it a shot.

Midway shows the parts. There is no reason to buy a bullet sizer just to get the ram as it come with the Bulge Buster kit. You will have to by the Factory Carbide Crimp Die(I called it a size die) for each caliber. Bulge Buster Base Sizing Kit (380 Auto 40 S&W 45 ACP) Here is the Lee web page link Bulge Buster Kit - Lee Precision

I wonder what these will sell for, I might be interested.

What you are talking about is a Lee Bulge Buster Kit, it uses a Lee Factory Carbide Sizer die and a special punch that will push the case all the way through the die. I made one out of one of My Lee Factory Sizers and a Lee bullet punch from one of the bullet sizers. Didn't really need to do it just wanted to see if it would work and it did.