glockster157

With straight walled cases no lube is required with carbide dies. However, I have found a light shot of a spray lube cuts the effort to size down tremendously. Required..No..Very helpful..Yes.

Sounds like you are being a little picky. If there is no cutting or gouging in the dent, then just resize it and load it normally. It will iron out in the chamber under pressure. Usually what causes those are the cases coming around hard and hitting the slide hard. I am not a 1911 smith so I am not sure if it is too much extractor tension or an ejector that needs to be adjusted. I suppose it could be fired in a carbine type gun like a Uzi or a Thompson but I have no experience with those.

You didn't specify what type of case or what type of ding. If it is a straight walled case I too will just run it thru a belling die. If the mouth is crushed down down on any case I usually toss it. If the mouth is bent closed I use a pair of needle nose as a tapered expander and open it up. If the dent is in the body of the case, such as a 223 or 308, and it is not cut, I will load it normal and shoot it normally. Trust me, the dent will come out. I have shot many shoulder or body dented cases with no ill effects. One thing to look for closely on bottle necked cases if a bright or burnished area in front of the case web. that shows it has been reloaded to the point the brass is stretching there and is going to separate. I have seen used brass in this condition for sale at gun shows. Not ethical but caveat emptor.

As stated, M19's are readily available if you have cash. I just picked up a 4" 19-3 (early 70's) in like new condition for $300. Last year I did the same on a 4" 686. Patience is one thing but you do have to hunt diligently to find deals. Dealers really ask high dollars for these guns and and those that frequent gun forums do as well. the going retail rate is about $450 to $550 depending on condition so when you can find them for $400 or less in exc+ to new condition is when you want to jump on them. There are some other factors. The original wood grips are worth quite a bit so if they have been removed that hurts value. You probably will not run into the cracked forcing cone issue as very few K frames were shot that much with light bullet 357 loads which is what caused that issue. Most people can't afford to shoot that much. You do need to watch out for guns that have been "worked on" as many have had shade tree trigger jobs. Check the screws on the side plate, if they are buggered up I would pass. Or have it checked by someone that knows SW revolvers.

My BIL just bought a Remington R25 in 308. It is a flat top of course. He wants to mount a set of BUIS's on it when he hunts. Will the AR15 sights and handles work on a AR10/R25?

Hodgdon's online data lists 22.0 grains as max in the 357 mag with 125 XTP bullets. In my experience you can (but don't do this) cram the case full of H110/W296 (same powder) and stick a bullet on top. About the worst you will do is flatten a primer or pucker it good. After saying that, follow the book data and drop the load 10% and work up. Most older loading manual would not even list reduced loads for H110 but went straight to max. So I wouldn't worry about reducing the load too much. 17.5 is more like 20% and that is a bit much to back off, Hodgon lists 21.0 as a starting load on their online data. Again just an FYI. I once did a big load development trial with a friend back in the 80's after he had bought a then new Oehler 33 Chrono. We tried many different powders including H110. Several things became apparent. Mag primers were not nearly as consistent as standard primers in the pistol loads. H110 needed mag primers and velocities were still quite erratic in the 4" revolvers. They should be fine in a rifle as you have much more barrel in which to burn all that powder. But if you plan to pick up a 357 revolver, I highly recommend a little faster powder with standard pistol primers. Alliant 2400, Accurate #9, Blue Dot being three that are fairly versatile in the magnum range, Unique, W231, Accurate #7 , Titegroup being faster for the service loads. Service loads being in the mid range of about 1000 to 1200 FPS depending on bullet weight. Then you would have a better load to share between the pistol and rifle, which is one of the big advantages of a rifle in 357. Also, pick you up a bunch of 38 spl cases, a lot cheaper to load, shoot and a heck of a lot of fun.

I have had several of these and currently have a 1894 Cowboy. I load 357's the same for rifle and pistol. For a plinking load, I use 158 grain copper plated bullets, not jacketed, with 5.0 grains of W231. Lot of fun, accurate and mild in a 357 revolver, carbine or rifle. For the magnum loads, I still use Alliant 2400 with standard primers. For 125's I use about 16.5 to 17 grains and the 140's I load 14.5 to 15. These loads will work in a rifle or revolver. Many will recommend H110/W296 but I have always felt this powder to be one speed rate too slow for these lighter bullets. Using mag primers, which I do not like as they do not seem to be as consistent, you might get better velocity, but I have never been able to get the accuracy that I have gotten from Alliant 2400 with standard primers. Look up loads by Elmer Keith, stay a little under his( he was a brave man) but I bring this up to say I have tested a lot of his loads over the years and found that he knew what he was talking about.

Cute, something like how much dirt is in a hole 1 foot wide, 1 foot long and 1 foot deep?

I still use Hoppes but if there is a lot of cleaning I break out the Ed's Red. Look it up, really good on carbon and a lot cheaper. I will go after the cylinders with the next size up brush. If it is a 35 caliber I use a 40. If it is a 44 I will use a 45 and in 45's I have some 50 caliber brushes. Oh, BTW, if you make up some Ed's Red, I leave out the acetone as it is only for plastic for shotgun fouling and I don't want acetone near my wood stocks or wood grips. I think the detergents in the ATF help a lot. Just a guess.

Great scopes for the money. I just picked up a really clean V7B 2.5x7 power. Don't know the objective lens size bit I would say about 36-38mm. Clear as a bell and all STEEL.

AS far as steel, I am not sure. I would have to dig thru the clips. I had so many clips floating on top of the pot, I just put a pan up to the edge and raked everything floating into it. Saw a few stick on WW in there and there may have been some steel but I didn't notice. I have several more buckets to do before I am finished so I am liable to run into some. Next, I have to re-melt a bunch of this and alloy it up with some 50/50 bar solder and linotype, pour it into 1lb bars and get enough to have a repeatable alloy. I will save some for heat treating and leave some as-is for light loads.

K4 Weaver...should be able to find a clean used one for $75 - $100

Been a while since I read that thread there, must be slipping in my old age. Can't imagine how I remembered that wrong.

Took a couple of hours yesterday to melt down a 5 gallon bucket of wheel weights. I have a turkey fryer and a large cast iron pot, 2 cast iron muffin pans, a couple of large ladles. I wanted to get a big batch of WW lead ready to use as a base when I start casting this fall. I fluxed a couple of times each pot. The 5 gallon bucket was nearly full. I got right at 110 lbs of lead out of that bucket. I have quite a bit of 50/50 bar solder and linotype so I can blend or heat treat. I was expecting about 140 lbs from what I had read at cast boolits but I didn't get that much.

I have heard really good things about TAC but I have never tried it. I am kind of old school. I use a lot of WW748, H335, IMR 4198. Love these 3 in the 223/5.56. I tried AA 2520 with 77 grain bullets with very good results. Need more time with that one.

Too slow of a powder, might work with heavy bullets but you probably will not get good velocities, plus accurate does not list any loads for 4064 for the 223.

I have been playing with the some round ball loads in my lever guns. I have a box of .375 and .457 round balls. I double coated them with LLA cut 50/50 with mineral spirits. I am currently using 8 grains of Unique with the 375 Winchester and 10 grains in the Marlin 45-70. These are a lot of fun. I just shove the ball into the case mouth and load them singularly. I chrono-ed the 375 load at 1200 fps. I didn't chrono the 45-70 yet. They are not perfect but they are cheap and easy and surprisingly accurate. I was hitting my steel plates at 50 easy and sometimes at a 100. I have to get a box of .310 round balls and play with the 308, 30-30 and 30-06.

I have had or still have the Marlin 1894CS, 1894 44Mag, 1895 Cowboy, 1895 Rifle, Winchester 94, Winchester XTR Big Bore and the Marlin 357 Cowboy. I have to say I am loving the levers more and more, but mainly because I am getting into cast bullets for rifles. As to the rifles, I like the size of the Marlin carbines better than the Cowboys but I had to get rid of them because of the micro-groove rifling. If I were only interested in jacketed bullets and I wanted a scope, then the Marlin is the only way to go. I like the 2 M94's I have but I to put a scout scope setup on one and a receiver sight on the other. I hope down the road to trade into some of the newer Marlin Carbines with the Ballard rifling.

You guys may disagree but I have had good success just using a cold blue to touch up small spots. I have never tried it on anything other than a nick or scratch and even then, mainly on black manganese phosphate type finishes. Mainly if you have scratched or nicked the finish thru to the metal to where silver is showing, the dark bluing just hides it somewhat.

Yes, seems to be working thru gmail...thanks.

Generally, there is no real performance difference in the 06 and the 308 up to 150-165 range. Above that, the 06 will outperform the 308 with 180's or heavier. Also there is a much broader range of factory ammo available for the 06 than any other factory round. It has not survived a 107 years for no reason. If you ever take up reloading you can outperform the 308 with any bullet weight across the board. If ammo gets in short supply again, your best chance to find some is going to be 06 or 270. The 270 is a very good deer and varmint cartridge as well. A little flatter shooting than the 06 and 308, but not as versatile. But again, very popular and ammo is always available. I have to hit the bed but let me end this thread by saying that in a hunting rifle, anything that can be done with a 308 can be done by a 06 even better. IMHO.

I do not have any experience with the 270 WSM round but I have quite a bit with the 270 Winchester and most of standard rounds. I do not see how IMR 4350 would be the best powder though it may be good powder. One rifle may like it better than another. I would recommend two others right off the bat. My standard load for the 270 Winchester the Nosler 130 grain Ballistic tip is either 58 grains of IMR 4831 or 60 grains of H4831. Though now that Hodgon owns IMR I may have to off and work back up on the H4831. I have never had much luck out of IMR 4350 in the 270 Win. I had load that shot plenty good enough to hunt with but the slower 4831 loads shot better and gave a little more velocity. With the increased case capacity I might even try IMR 7828. Normally a 7 Mag powder but maybe. Some questions. 1. Are you getting any pressure signs? Really flattened primers, brass flow, hard extraction 2. How far off of the rifling are you seating the bullets? The closer the better 3. What kind of primers are you using? I have had better more consistent groups out of standard primers and good crimp(preferably a Lee type collet crimp) than using magnum primers. I don't know why.

Mainly recoil, a 140 grain 7mm mag feels to me about like a 165 grain 30-06. Going to a 300 you are getting a more recoil, blast and higher ammo cost with not that much return, especially if we are talking deer. I still recommend the 30-06 or the 270 for this neck of the woods. Lots of ammo to choose from for those two and they will kill anything east of the Mississippi and most things west of it.

Make sure the spring is going all the way into the grip. Sounds like too much spring tension when the grip is installed. Something is causing the spring to over compress. Make you it is not bent or crushed down inside the grip. Can't think of anything else.

I also lucked into a like new H&R 999 in absolutely perfect condition. It is a lot of fun to shoot. I have no plans to part with mine anytime soon. Watch that rear sight and make sure both screws stay tight. They are bad about coming loose and loosing the blade sight. mine fell out on me the first time I took it out shooting but I was able to find it.