Lumber_Jack

I would have to believe he mentioned the gun, how else would they know he had one? Plus the director saying "we have little kids here this is no place for guns" is just bull####. They kind of rhetoric just makes me sick EDIT:post #4 makes much more sense, now. if he brandished a gun, during an argument, then he should be fined, and lose his permit.

Oh and Quarrels losing his arm was pretty cool too!

They were building the whole "Arlo favors Boyd over Raylan" for a while now. I loved this season and the ending, looking forward to next season.

I would buy the Lyman first, as well as The ABCs of Reloading. Very helpful. I have the Hornady manual as I have a bunch of Hornady bullets to load. If you plan to load a lot of one particular brand of bullet I would buy that manual. In the end you will probably have them all.

She was an employee of the Football department. He gave her the job over 159 other applicants as well as $20,000 of university funds

I'm having a problem with the classifieds and the mobile skin. I can't seem to find any option to contact the seller. Also it doesn't display the sellers screen name.

It has crossed my mind but I haven't really looked into pricing that stuff.

Do it, I'm really pleased with the way it turned out. The only thing I would do different is the rectangle frame I built to support the extra end is only as wide as the cabinet, not the width of the plywood top. I should have made it the whole width (2') and that would have set the legs farther apart and made it a little mode stable. But even then may still have had to anchor it to the wall

I have a RCBS rock chucker single stage. I will definitely have to anchor the bench. It's sturdy but if you press hard down and away from the wall it wobbles some. I will just do as stated above and use some L brackets and screw into wall studs.

That's what I used. The more I read about finishing the more confused I am. Some hate BLO but like Tung Oil, some say buy a blend. But most suggest a wax as Caster did. This helps things like glue or paint to not stick.

Thanks for the tips Lester. I'm gonna go to Lowes this week and look at what they have. Even if I run off the light switch I want to make certain I get the power-in and not the switched leg.

The other side is a closet/ stairwell. This is the basement and that's the only drywalled area. The rest is cinder block. There are two outlets on the opposite wall from the picture but they are wired in conduit.

So I guess there is differing opinions on finish. I just feel that white birch plywood will look bad in short order

Well there is a good reason for that.....I hadn't thought of that . Should I split it in the switch box, or at the top of the wall where the line drops down the wall? I am assuming I should run the wire up to the ceiling and back down, mid wall, to avoid ripping out drywall. Essentially I'm looking for the easiest way to get at least one outlet on that wall. And if I could kick the builders ass for not putting them in to begin with I would.

Would y'all finish the wood top? Either stain or clear, or just leave the plain wood?

Ah, good advice. I think coming from the basement I should be fine. But once I determine the breaker the line is on, I'll double check that it's not switched.

That's the next step. I have the other half of that sheet of plywood. I just need to rip it down and build some shelves.

Well I finally got around to fixing my new reloading bench. I used an old craftsman tool cabinet my FIL gave me and removed the fiberboard top and replaced with 3/4 hardwood plywood. I used the whole 8 foot section and made a separate workspace to the side. I also painted the cabinet and draws as they were kinda rusty. The only drawback is I made the legs a little narrow, I just used the cabinet width to build my frame. I should have spread the legs farther apart and it would be a little more stable. But once I load it down it should be fine, and if all else fails I'll just anchor it to the wall.

Ive seen videos of up close power washing and it didn't come off. As long as it doesn't get scoured it won't peel off.

That is correct. You still have to pay the state for the application. Most classes cost $60-90, this one just happens to be free. Just give them a call and get a spot ahead of time.

I love plasti-dip. It's fool proof. If you don't like the results, just peel it off. It's very popular on the FJ Cruiser forum for turning silver trim pieces black. Search on YouTube there are some cool videos of people using that stuff

Haha, I like knife vendors. I was gonna stop and say hey, but you were surrounded by like 5 people. Next time I'll stop in and get a sharpening.

Thanks for the help. If you can see in the pic there is some slack in one of the lines, so I think I can get the junction in there. I appreciate the tips, I'll pick up both testers before venturing into the job.

I was jut reading this in the ABCs of reloading today. The deeper the bullet is seated the higher the pressure. So if you go max load and seat too deal your pressure could be higher than recommended. If you seat the bullet way out and add more powder you just have to be sure your under the max load an not over max OAL

It would take almost 35' of cable to reach the nearest outlet. That's following the wall up and across the joists. I know cause I already measured. I just saw the 12/2 there, staring me in the face and started thinking. I've never done this before so I was just asking to see if that's my best option. If running it off another outlet is better, I can do that. Thoughts?