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Everything posted by Patton
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It is hard to ignore the availability of Glock accessories, but I you can get the same Glock trade-in for the same price if you look. http://www.gtdist.com/SearchResults.aspx?SubCat=USED&Category=GUNAM Never mind, I thought you wanted a Glock. The M&P's are fine weapons, but I personally dislike the triggers.
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Lefties are not smart, but maybe they are smart enough to realize terrorist can inflict as much damage with a vehicle.
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I also noticed that I would have to seat bullets deeper to make them work, but it took a factory crimp die to make the rest of it fit. I guess my old(1950's) Lyman dies were to blame.
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I am completely neutral on the G42. I laughed at the 42 when it was released, but one of my friends who bought one urged me to shoot his. My opinion changed a little and I found it to have a purpose; it does shoot better than a LCP and probably carries better than its specifications appear on paper. I still can not get over the fact that a Shield shoots the same.
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I see no need in bobbing hammers; they can be benificial for more than just s/a shooting. My grandfather showed me how to draw from the pocket to where it will never be an issue. If you will tuck the edge of your thumb under the trigger it will never snag pulling from the pocket. All you have to do is practice it a few times. If you ever decide to belt carry the hammer will be helpful for retention with a thumb-strap.
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The s&w 547 does not require them either. Actually, you can't use them on the 547 and the Pitbull. In my opinion you lose one of the best attributes, moonclips.
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The 986 and 929 both received the short cylinder, but I think that it is somewhat unnecessary.
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There really is not a need to take a revolver apart for cleaning unless there is something wrong with it. I do not even remove the crane unless it is one that has been shot thousands of times and very old. I for sure would not do it to a classic piece.
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It is and unless you are talking about a Governor or Judge it isn't much of a concern. At least you don't have to worry as much about flame cutting, or so I would assume. Yes, casings can be pushed out with a pen or cleaning rod if you desire to not use moonclips. I recently heard that you can just pop the rim of another case under the stuck case and pop them out. I have .380 derringer tha I have to do that way and never thought of the 9mm revolvers working the same way.
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You keep neglecting the fact that the 9mm version weighs 17oz. I would be willing to bet that it may recoil the same or less than the lighter 13oz version. I have several small revolvers and I cannot emphasize how much every ounce helps reduce recoil. These may be the most comparable loads out there to one another. And
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Shrouded hammers seem like a great idea but they are not. Stick with the centennials which are also known as the 40/42/642/442/640/340/342/940. Titanium and scandium models hurt no matter what caliber; Airweights are not pleasant to shoot necessarily. A ~20oz model 60 is about my favorite to shoot and carry. I once had the highly demanded 640 no dash which is the best j frame ever made, but sold it to get other things. You should read this article http://www.snubnose.info/docs/m640.htm
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This is my Gould and Goodrich leather rig for a j frame. It is very stiff and rides close to the body.
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Kydex is a little rough on the finish of Airweights, but if you do not care about the finish Kydex is fine. As for the ankle either the Galco($85) or the Gould and Goodrich ($50). Both of them are leather and sheepskin.
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To me the 13.5oz LCR .38 lacks a little in the power department and the .357 at 17oz is still way too much recoil; the 17oz 9mm should be a good compromise. I suspect the 17oz 9mm may have a little less recoil than the 13.5oz 38spl.
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That is interesting; the 9mm's extra 285 fps is more than even I expected. I do know that the NYPD was getting an extra 200fps more out of the 9mm 3" BUGs than the .38spl BUGs. A 135gr 38spl +p and a 124gr 9mm +p.
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I had one that was perfect out of the box, but my second one is very ammo finicky. Even after their breaking instructions it has a very tight chamber. I can not say that the LW are more accurate.
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Very little is lost in the cylinder gap as long as it is still in factory specs. In fact, put a derringer up against an auto, on a chronograph, and you will see that energy is lost in the operation of the slide. All be it very little, it would be the equivalent of a cylinder gap. After studying all the manufacturers data I came to the conclusion that a 38spl has on average a 100fps less velocity than the comparable 9mm. Remember that a revolver is measured from the muzzle to the cylinder gap and the auto is measured to the breech. If you compare Speer Gold dot the 9mm comparison to .38spl is closer to a 200fps difference.
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That extra 2oz of the LCR's really matters. I bet you could shoot circles around your LCR with my 24oz 640 as long as it had Specials. People think I am crazy when I tell them how important weight is to the accuracy of small revolvers. I do wish I still had my original 15oz 642 though; they carry so well.
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I think it was a combination of timing, bad publicity against 9mm, the price, and S&W not marketing it correctly.
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I have never met a person who thinks the LCRK was comfortable with magnums. The 17 oz, 9mm LCR should be comfortable with 9mm and give a slight advantage over 38/38plus p.
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Short stroking the trigger is my biggest complaint on the LCR, and yes I own one.
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You shouldn't need moonclips to shoot but you will need them to eject cartridges without using a foreign object; supposedly you can use the rim of another cartridge to pop them loose. The 9mm also bridges the gap between performance of a 38spl and a .357mag in a comfortable, plentiful, and affordable round.
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I would say that you made the very best choice possible. Are you comfortable with the recoil it has?
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I believe it is limited to the Super Red Hawk and the New Model Black Hawk; they are thicker in the top strap. They kind of inherited this from 45lc and 454 models. True Ruger only loads "officially" apply only to 45lc loads.