Patton

I once thought that too; however, not everyone is honest. The same reason that you can not search a serial number from you home is the same reason police or dealers will not search a serial number unless it is in their hand. I have seen first hand that people want to know if a gun is stolen but they are not willing to surrender it if it is stolen. Some people will resale, hide deep in a sock drawer, or throw it in a lake to avoid being asked questions on a gun they know is stolen. The police and dealers recover a lot more stolen guns through checks than honest people inquiring.

Yes, another scenario I have seen is the gun being reported stolen after the FFL acquires it. Obviously not the case here, but somepeople may take weeks, months or even a year before reporting a gun stolen. We took a report on a stolen handgun one time that took a year for the lady to find the serial number. Another case happened when a guy bought a Sig through a pawnshop and later returned to pawn it. When he went to get it out of pawn it had been reported stolen with a lengthy time gap. It was not in the system when it was sold to the guy the first time.

I have always had very capable vehicles for driving in winter weather, but I chose to stay at home. Unfortunately, I have been at work when it started snowing and had to drive home in the crap. You have to take it slow and try to not come to a complete stop.

Did Cheaper Than Dirt give you that Idea? A cubic yard of soil straight from the ground weighs about a ton. Depending on the size of the rocks or gravel you are looking at about 2700-3200 lbs per cubic yard. Sand will weigh about the same. Gravel and good soil was pretty close to the same price when I was in the buisness. Fill dirt, which should work for building a berm, should be a quarter of the cost. I recommend calling a trucking company rather than a nursery.

If you want to buy soil and have it delivered a good price is about $15-$30 per cubic yard. A good sifted soil is $30 a yard or about $450 for a full tandem load. However it will be fluffy and lose volume once settled. An unsifted soil straight from the field is harder to move but will not settle near as much. You can move sifted soil with a broom but it takes a shuffle to move the unsifted? Field dirt will cost you pretty much the price for delivery. I used to deliver 4.5 cubic yards of fill on a 1 ton Chevrolet dump for $50 within 10 miles of home base. To have sand delivered will cost about $40-50 a yard and they can only legally put about 15cu yards on a tandem. You could get mulch and do it for a lot less, but it may not work as well or last forever. Have you thought about crossties or logs for a flat wall with soil behind it? Many years from now you could burn the logs and reclaim some lead?

If you have a Glock 19/32/38 you can buy one of these: http://m.ebay.com/itm/161442817389?nav=SEARCH During the nibx process the serial numbers were removed; no one will know it is a mix match.

I would not buy a 6.0 L and I have personal experience in dealing with them. I drove several work trucks that we're 6.0L and they never saw anything that a 1/2 ton could not have handled. They regularly needed $2000 worth of repairs and Ford technicians would admit that they were terrible engines. The coolant and the cooling system was an issue on all of them. The high pressure oil pump was the next big issue; one truck had $15,000 worth of repairs before it reached 120k miles. To be honest they don't get that great of mileage and they didn't appear to be as powerful as people claim. I didn't drive it much but the V-10 that was bought at a good deal and by mistake was actually an impressive truck that was actually cheaper to keep on the road. Even though it got 11mpg compared to the 6.0l's 17mpg, it was cheaper to keep on the road.

What a beauty you have. Your old man had great taste.

If my memory serves me correctly, those ones were hard to manipulate.

It shouldn't be an issue for him to have a firearm in the home. In fact, I have known some police officers that have had felons living under their roof with their firearms in the house.

I recommend the Tango Down slide stop. http://tangodown.com/shop/vickers-tactical-slide-stop-for-glock/

Light primer strikes normally occur only with the Taurus revolvers after a bob job has been done, but after the bob I could see a trigger job risking the possibility though.

Truthfully, the insurance company will persue the owner of the cow but it is unlikely that they will put much effort into it. The cost isn't worth the gain for a no injury collision. She will just be out her deductible which is just part of life.

My how soon you guys forget: [ http://www.commercialappeal.com/news/local-news/armed-pizza-delivery-man-shoots-would-be-robber I intend to never give them another dime. Edit: I could have sworn it was released that the driver was fired afterwards. Does anyone know?

Ok, I will play; why does te gen 3 handle them better than the gen 4? I sold my gen 3 20sf in hopes of acquiring a gen 4 that has less recoil and better chamber support. All it took was shooting a gen 4 to make me want to uprgade. In fact the gen 4's are supposed to have better chamber support than aftermarket barrels. This does come with a trade off: some rounds may not feed as reliably.

Primarily I wear a 5.11 Tactical Double Duty or a Gould and Goodrich leather.

I wouldn't be quick to dismiss a M&P just because Atlanta dumped theirs. For every department that dumps their M&Ps their is another department adopting them; pretty much the same with 9mm. The Indiana State Police dumped 9mm recently after using them for over 30 years.

It is hard to ignore the availability of Glock accessories, but I you can get the same Glock trade-in for the same price if you look. http://www.gtdist.com/SearchResults.aspx?SubCat=USED&Category=GUNAM Never mind, I thought you wanted a Glock. The M&P's are fine weapons, but I personally dislike the triggers.

Lefties are not smart, but maybe they are smart enough to realize terrorist can inflict as much damage with a vehicle.

I also noticed that I would have to seat bullets deeper to make them work, but it took a factory crimp die to make the rest of it fit. I guess my old(1950's) Lyman dies were to blame.

I am completely neutral on the G42. I laughed at the 42 when it was released, but one of my friends who bought one urged me to shoot his. My opinion changed a little and I found it to have a purpose; it does shoot better than a LCP and probably carries better than its specifications appear on paper. I still can not get over the fact that a Shield shoots the same.

I see no need in bobbing hammers; they can be benificial for more than just s/a shooting. My grandfather showed me how to draw from the pocket to where it will never be an issue. If you will tuck the edge of your thumb under the trigger it will never snag pulling from the pocket. All you have to do is practice it a few times. If you ever decide to belt carry the hammer will be helpful for retention with a thumb-strap.

The s&w 547 does not require them either. Actually, you can't use them on the 547 and the Pitbull. In my opinion you lose one of the best attributes, moonclips.

Something like a 9mm Federal?