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Everything posted by LeadWaster
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Is he moving to Farragut or just opening an additional location?
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While not nearly as fun as a handgun, have you guys seen the electronic bug swatters that Harbor Freight sells? They are a blast, and you can hear the bugs sizzle when you hit them! They really work! http://www.harborfreight.com/lawn-garden/pest-control/electronic-fly-swatter-40122.htm Just resist the temptation to try it out on your spouse/kids/dog. <G>
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45-70 would make a dandy bee load!
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I owned a couple of MKII's in the 80's. Traded and ended up with a S&W 41. Great gun. Recently bought a couple of MKII's. I put a VQ trigger/hammer/sear/ext. bolt release and a Clark hammer bushing (big improvement with the bushing!) in one of them and I shoot it better than my S&W41! The 41 is very easy to strip, but once you get the hang of the MKII assembly procedure, it's almost as easy.... but I still pinch a finger putting the MKII together on occasion! Love the MKII's.... one of the best guns of all time, im my opinion.
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They certainly change the balance of a gun, which may not be as much of an issue with a rifle than with a shotgun. Seems most rifle shots are at somewhat stationary targets, not requiring you to swing the gun to make the shot. I don't have any experience with them in rifles. On a shotgun, I can't imagine hanging one in front of the forend.
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I had one of these back in the 1980's in my Browning BT-99 trap gun. They were pretty popular at the time. General consensus at the time was that the same weight of lead shot (in a plastic bad with a little epoxy poured in) placed in the bolt hold did pretty much the same thing. The mercury reducer has some baffles in it to help reduce recoil as the mercury tries to go thru it, but about 90% of the effect seems to come from the weight, at least in my experience.
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6.8 Ar, with all due respect, I'm not trying to tell you what to do. All I can say is how I would handle it. Nothing more, nothing less. I totally agree there is a lot to be desired with the way the laws are written. It's one country, so why do we even have to handle interstate handgun sales the way we do? I don't know. But, I can certainly see a situation where a "loaned" gun is stolen or used to defend yourself/family could wind up in court with some prosecuting attorney (or hired attorney in a civil case) twisting a "loan" into an illegal transfer, which is a felony. If you are convicted of a felony, then all of your rights to own handguns are seriously in jeopardy. For me, it's just not worth the risk for a few dollars. Would a "loan" ever be "found out"? Probably not. I'm not an attorney... don't want to be either... nor do I want one grilling me in court!
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Think of the worst case scenario... the gun is stolen from your home and used in a crime, or maybe worse, you have to use it to defend your home/family. It sure would look better in the police report/court if you went thru an FFL. Call your dealer before going. Some will only accept a handgun if shipped to them from another FFL. I found one to do an out of state transfer for me where both parties could walk in and do the transfer. Cost me $30 including the background check. Some cost more, some less. Money well spent.
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Well, his fee is $10, but you add the $10 background check fee and it's $20 total, but still the best deal around! Archie is great to work with.
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Not sure I'd want to do that either, but it seems to work for him. I'm just glad to find a good guy to do transfers, and the $10 transfer fee is just icing on the cake! Were it not for Archie, I'd do them at Bill's Outpost.I tried to use Benton's Shooters Supply for a FTF transfer a few weeks back (the other party was from out of state), and they won't accept a handgun except shipped to them from an FFL, and they wanted $55 for the transfer plus any shipping charges! I read that as "we don't want to mess with transfers".
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Archie does transfers out of his home. He's in a neighborhood about 2 miles out Montvale Road. His phone is 865-233-0294, but call evenings 6:00 - 10:00. Last night he didn't get in from work until 8:00. Best thing is to e-mail him at sr20de2@charter.net. He'll get back with you.
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Bill's Outpost is great, but I just did a transfer with Archie Baker (Foothills Armory). Really nice guy and $10 transfers! He works a regular day job so is on;y around in the evenings, but can't beat the price. A friend used Bill's for a transfer and had a good experience.
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Haven't tried this yet, but this looks promising for ultrasonic cleaning. UltraSonic Case Cleaning I use walnut media from a pet store, with some Dillon rapid polish or Mequiars Diamond Cut 2.0 added and get really nice looking brass. I don't deprime before cleaning, so the pocket doesn't get clean. I'd think finer media would help if you deprime before cleaning. You can get walnut hull in all different sizes.
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I've got a TCP and 709. Both are fun to shoot and very reliable. I reload both calibers and have no issue with bulged brass. I did a little filing on the TCP extractor per the suggestions over on the TaurusArmed forum. The nose of the extractor was kind of long and was leaving some gouges on the brass. That's no longer an issue. No problem putting 100 rounds thru either one while at the range. Surprisingly, I found the recoil of the 709 to be much less than a similar KelTec 9mm.
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Thanks OhShoot. I don't really buy the "easier to conceal" either. I've got spring assist opening knives that open faster and easier than a lot of switchblades! I think the laws aren't based on any real issues, but more on perceptions than anything. "Switchblade" has a negative connotation to most of the population. Maybe we'll get some laws changed in the future, but I'm not holding my breath.
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I suspect it's because a switchblade is easier to conceal. But, how is a concealed switchblade more of a problem than a concealed handgun (provided you have a HCP)? Aren't there regulations prohibiting the carry of double edge blades as well?
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You would think that those of us with HCP would be able to carry about whatever knife we want, but common sense isn't in great abundance in our government. As I understand, it's against the law for me to even OWN a switchblade? Not talking about carrying, just owning? Also, if I were to sell one, I couldn't ship it to them? I go to knife shows and see all kinds of automatics, police officers walking around (looking at the goodies just like me), and nothing is ever said about the automatics. Seems to not be an issue. I take it this isn't enforced unless you are in some other type of trouble, or doing something illegal with an automatic.
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You never know when one of those packages will "go postal" on you!
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Got my son a Kershaw OD-1.... about $35 (give or take) on Amazon. US made, Sandvik steel, very fast opening, lightweight, plain edge. I'm impressed. I carry/own Kershaws, CRKT, Benchmade, Microtechs, and a custom made. Even with all of those, I still like the OD-1. Maybe one of the best values out there. The screw that holds it together loosened a bit (he sits and flips it open and closed a lot). So, removed the screw, put a drop of blue LocTite on it, no more problems. Other than that, no complaints. I also bought a CRKT Ripple at the Blade Show last year. It's a great knife too, but for less money, the OD-1 may be the winner! The Ripple has a ball bearing pivot and is very smooth. These new flippers that don't use any kind of spring are really nice.
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Professional Wood Repair and Refinishing ?
LeadWaster replied to RobertNashville's topic in Gunsmithing & Troubleshooting
In this economy, everyones crystal ball is a bit fuzzy! But, I doubt seriously, given reasonable care, that they will do anything but go up in value. I wish I'd purchased more than one S&W model 41 back in the early '80's! Just glad I've got one. -
Professional Wood Repair and Refinishing ?
LeadWaster replied to RobertNashville's topic in Gunsmithing & Troubleshooting
Dents can often be steamed out, but with finish on top of the dent, it becomes much more difficult. If the wood fibers are torn and not just "crushed", then steam won't pull it out all of the way. The furniture guys are good at filling and making the grain match. Complete refinishing is a good idea (in my opinion) if the finish on the stock has gotten really bad. It's not a good idea if it's a collectible gun. For a ding/scratch or two, I'd be inclined to go with the spot repair. You might always know it's there, but if you don't point it out to anyone, they'll probably never notice it. Most of the repair guys are independent contractors, I suspect, so you might get a better price if you don't have to deal thru the furniture company. The guy that worked on our entertainment center spent no more than 45 minutes here. -
Professional Wood Repair and Refinishing ?
LeadWaster replied to RobertNashville's topic in Gunsmithing & Troubleshooting
Some of the best touch-up and spot refinishing I've seen is by the folks that do work for furniture companies. We bought an entertainment center a few years ago and it was delivered with a couple of big dings on the edge of the door. The furniture company sent a guy over and he worked magic on it! He filled, touched up, and sprayed some finish on it. You really can't see it any more at all. I build instruments for a living and am accustom to really fine finishing.... this guy was good! Most of these stocks are finished with what we'd call "modern" finishes... catalyzed, poly finishes, what have you. They aren't easy to repair like good 'ol nitrocellulose lacquer or shellac. Touch up coats don't "burn in" to previous finish. The furniture guys know how to handle this. Call a good furniture company near you and see if they have a guy that does this... get his phone number and see if he'll tackle it. -
I don't know how you'd close a regular lockback knife without putting a finger "in harms way" either. I've owned both for many years, and find the liner lock easier.. at least for me, to close one handed. Both designs work great (in a good quality knife)... just a matter of preference!
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Thanks Lester. The one I'm trading for appears to have all stainless parts.... I'll check out the guide rod. Even the magazines appear to be stainless. I've wanted one of these since back in the '80's, but after a fellow let me shoot his at Frontier back in December, it's moved way up on the list of guns I'm trying to get. Hopefully this Sat will be the day!
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I'm planning on a trade for a 92FS stainless this weekend. Always wanted one. Just curious, are the stainless models called "Inox" or is there a special "Inox" model? Thanks.