LeadWaster

I've got a TCP and 709. Both are fun to shoot and very reliable. I reload both calibers and have no issue with bulged brass. I did a little filing on the TCP extractor per the suggestions over on the TaurusArmed forum. The nose of the extractor was kind of long and was leaving some gouges on the brass. That's no longer an issue. No problem putting 100 rounds thru either one while at the range. Surprisingly, I found the recoil of the 709 to be much less than a similar KelTec 9mm.

Thanks OhShoot. I don't really buy the "easier to conceal" either. I've got spring assist opening knives that open faster and easier than a lot of switchblades! I think the laws aren't based on any real issues, but more on perceptions than anything. "Switchblade" has a negative connotation to most of the population. Maybe we'll get some laws changed in the future, but I'm not holding my breath.

I suspect it's because a switchblade is easier to conceal. But, how is a concealed switchblade more of a problem than a concealed handgun (provided you have a HCP)? Aren't there regulations prohibiting the carry of double edge blades as well?

You would think that those of us with HCP would be able to carry about whatever knife we want, but common sense isn't in great abundance in our government. As I understand, it's against the law for me to even OWN a switchblade? Not talking about carrying, just owning? Also, if I were to sell one, I couldn't ship it to them? I go to knife shows and see all kinds of automatics, police officers walking around (looking at the goodies just like me), and nothing is ever said about the automatics. Seems to not be an issue. I take it this isn't enforced unless you are in some other type of trouble, or doing something illegal with an automatic.

You never know when one of those packages will "go postal" on you!

Got my son a Kershaw OD-1.... about $35 (give or take) on Amazon. US made, Sandvik steel, very fast opening, lightweight, plain edge. I'm impressed. I carry/own Kershaws, CRKT, Benchmade, Microtechs, and a custom made. Even with all of those, I still like the OD-1. Maybe one of the best values out there. The screw that holds it together loosened a bit (he sits and flips it open and closed a lot). So, removed the screw, put a drop of blue LocTite on it, no more problems. Other than that, no complaints. I also bought a CRKT Ripple at the Blade Show last year. It's a great knife too, but for less money, the OD-1 may be the winner! The Ripple has a ball bearing pivot and is very smooth. These new flippers that don't use any kind of spring are really nice.

In this economy, everyones crystal ball is a bit fuzzy! But, I doubt seriously, given reasonable care, that they will do anything but go up in value. I wish I'd purchased more than one S&W model 41 back in the early '80's! Just glad I've got one.

Dents can often be steamed out, but with finish on top of the dent, it becomes much more difficult. If the wood fibers are torn and not just "crushed", then steam won't pull it out all of the way. The furniture guys are good at filling and making the grain match. Complete refinishing is a good idea (in my opinion) if the finish on the stock has gotten really bad. It's not a good idea if it's a collectible gun. For a ding/scratch or two, I'd be inclined to go with the spot repair. You might always know it's there, but if you don't point it out to anyone, they'll probably never notice it. Most of the repair guys are independent contractors, I suspect, so you might get a better price if you don't have to deal thru the furniture company. The guy that worked on our entertainment center spent no more than 45 minutes here.

Some of the best touch-up and spot refinishing I've seen is by the folks that do work for furniture companies. We bought an entertainment center a few years ago and it was delivered with a couple of big dings on the edge of the door. The furniture company sent a guy over and he worked magic on it! He filled, touched up, and sprayed some finish on it. You really can't see it any more at all. I build instruments for a living and am accustom to really fine finishing.... this guy was good! Most of these stocks are finished with what we'd call "modern" finishes... catalyzed, poly finishes, what have you. They aren't easy to repair like good 'ol nitrocellulose lacquer or shellac. Touch up coats don't "burn in" to previous finish. The furniture guys know how to handle this. Call a good furniture company near you and see if they have a guy that does this... get his phone number and see if he'll tackle it.

I don't know how you'd close a regular lockback knife without putting a finger "in harms way" either. I've owned both for many years, and find the liner lock easier.. at least for me, to close one handed. Both designs work great (in a good quality knife)... just a matter of preference!

Thanks Lester. The one I'm trading for appears to have all stainless parts.... I'll check out the guide rod. Even the magazines appear to be stainless. I've wanted one of these since back in the '80's, but after a fellow let me shoot his at Frontier back in December, it's moved way up on the list of guns I'm trying to get. Hopefully this Sat will be the day!

I'm planning on a trade for a 92FS stainless this weekend. Always wanted one. Just curious, are the stainless models called "Inox" or is there a special "Inox" model? Thanks.

Unfortunately, I keep pouring money into my machine, but no money comes out!

I bought a used one off the classifieds here back in Dec. (Remember, Taurus warranty extends to future owners as well!) It's a joy to shoot. Easy on recoil, and after putting 300 to 400 rounds thru it, I can't complain. Had a couple of failures because I hit the mag release button with my big meathooks, my fault. I think I've had the slide lock back with one round left in the mag twice. That's it. It does shoot a little low, but I took the front sight off and whittled a bit off the bottom. Haven't been back to the range yet, but I suspect it will help. Even my 15 year old loves shooting it!

I bought an NC Star reflex type on Amazon for $30 (and free shipping). I put it on my model 41 and have had it to the range once. Worked great. It has a lifetime warranty.... if it ever goes tango uniform, send it and $10 and get a new/refurbished one! I figured I couldn't loose with that deal. Only time will tell if it lasts.

I saw one back in Dec. at Frontier Firearms. Very lightweight.... almost felt like an airsoft gun. Not exactly what I was expecting. However, I think it would be great fun!!! Just think, you could put as much lead down range as the A Team (who never seemed to need to reload!). I'd just hope your aim is better!

It's biting the brass because the nose of the extractor is too long. Check the Taurus Armed forum. There's a good explanation of this in either the 700 series or gunsmithing section. I filed my extractor down and it now allows the case head to sit completely against the bolt face without digging into the brass. Reworking the extractor didn't stop mine from dumping the brass on my head! It is supposed to improve reliability though.

Having loaded on single stage and progressives for years, I was always of the opinion that you should start with a single stage. Well, I think I've changed my mind. With my Dillon Square Deal, I can load one round at a time, cycling it thru all of the stations before putting another empty brass in the fist station. If you are new to the game, go one round at a time until you have a good feel for what is happening at each station. Build some confidence, then go "progressive" with it. Dillon presses are great. If you are doing a lot of rifle cartridges, single stage may still be a good idea, but for higher volume pistol production, nothing beats a progressive.

I'll second the Taurusarmed.net web site. Good information in the gunsmithing section. My TCP has functioned great all along, but it was digging a divot in the brass where the extractor was grabbing it. I followed the information about removing some of the "nose" off of the extractor with a file, and polished it, and no more divot! IT still ejects on top of my head though. But, the extractor tends to hold the brass off of the face of the slide, so when it slams into battery, the extractor digs into the brass. Apparently, this is one of the "fixes" done at Taurus when they are sent back with issues. Mine is an "A" as well. I also bought a used 709 (from a fellow forum member) and it's a joy to shoot. The TCP can be a little snappy with heavy loads, but I'm loading my own and can tame it down a bit.

Yes, and that is one of the reasons I traded it. Plus, it was a CQC-7 tanto, and the blade was just too thick for me. I prefer a thinner knife blade. So, I traded it to a gentleman at a show for a handmade liner lock that I do carry and use every day! I still like the D/A and may own another someday, but right now, I've got too many knives that are worth too much to carry, or are blatantly illegal to carry! I've got a Microtech Makora (double edge, out the front design) that there's now way I'd ever carry. Just can't see myself sitting on a bench out in public playing with that one! Never carried it. Should sell it and turn it into something I'll use.

If you were to carry an automatic, I think the dual action knives (D/A) would be of great interest, although just as illegal as a regular automatic. They are typically "scale release", a design I believe was perfected by Butch Vallotton. He does a lot of conversions of existing knives. I had an Emerson D/A for a while (never carried it though). A number of companies offer these. One of my favorites was Lone Wolf, who has been bought out by Benchmade. THe neat thing about D/A knives is there is no apparent opening device, other than a thumb stud or such. You can flick it open like any other folder. Usually a liner lock. Closes normally too. But push down on the scale (usually hinged in the middle of the knife) and it comes open automatically. When you close it, you'll feel some resistance as it cocks the internal spring for the next auto deployment. A very cool design.

I wonder if he's the guy that usually sets up at the Knoxville shows? I hope he's back at future shows. A month or so ago I bought 5000 from Graf and Son.... about $150 with a $10 hazmat fee (special deal). These were Federal primers. Should last me a while. I've seen some gun shops charging as much as $47.50/1000. Getting a little steep!

I plan on going. THis will make about the 4th or 5th Blade show for me and my boys. Take plenty of money! Some of the big knife companies won't be selling there, some will. The ones that don't usually have a dealer on site (A-G-Russell) were you can buy their knives. However, you can buy from individual makers and prices start aroun d $75 for really nice fixed blade all the way up to, well, the sky is the limit!

If you want to see everything (and I mean EVERYTHING) under one roof, go to the Blade Show in Atlanta in June..... custom made knives too, but all the big companies are there as well. Blade Magazine - BLADE Show June 10-12. There is a tactical gear show at the same time this year (same location). You should go at least once.

There is a hardware store in Cookeville, Highland, I think. They have a separate building for knives. I didn't stop in, but will next time I'm in the area. Looked like a pretty good size knife shop. Nothing like SMKW, but better than most any other place you'll find. I looked it up, Highland Hardware, 219 E. Spring St. Cookeville.