LeadWaster

I'd think that would be good for external gunk and grime, but not between tight fitting parts, and most likely not for polymer frames. My wife has a household version of that, and it's good on some things like grout, tile, sinks and such. I think jewelers use it for cleaning rings.... might work better than I think. Still not a good idea on plastics.

I'm thinking some dilution of Simple Green would be good. I keep a tub of the stuff for bicycle parts. You don't want to leave aluminum or zinc parts in for long.

This is just the thread I've been waiting for. I'd like to know what kind of solution folks use in these to clean gun parts.... metal and plastic (I assume different solutions?). My S&W model 41 is starting to misfire, and I suspect if I put the slide in one of these things and cleaned it real good, it might go "pop" every time I pull the trigger, again!

... Glocks with sights on the side of the slide? ;>) I've wondered about the price thing too. Maybe the higher priced guys figure they'll pad the prices some so they have some haggle room? Doesn't work with me. I just keep walking until I find the price i want.

Nice... I'm liking the mouseguns more and more all the time, especially since I got my TCP. Lot's of fun to shoot. So, if these are mouseguns, does that make my Taurus 709 a "rat gun"? HA!

+1 on the ventilation! Maybe +4 or 5! Lead vapors are nasty and bad for you. I cast for a short time back in the 80's. Lots of work. Not sure what lead is running these days, but back then I was getting linotype for cheap... around 25 to 50 cents a pound. Made good hard bullets. I'd guess wheel weights are a good choice these days.

+1 for Berry's plated bullets. I'm loading them in 9mm and .380. They have a 100gr RN that works great in both calibers for me. I'm using Win 231 in both and it burns nice and clean. You don't want to load them as hot as FMJ, but like kb4ns said, somewhere between lead and FMJ. One thing you may want to do is back off your crimp die a bit as the Berry's are about 0.001" larger in diameter than a similar FMJ. Taper crimps are by far the prefered method of crimping. A heavy taper crimp or a more aggressive rolled crimp can cut the plating and leave part of it your barrel. I take a pair of dial calipers to the range with me when developing a load. I'll shoot all but the last round in the mag, pull it out and measure it just to assure it hasn't "grown" any from the bullet backing out. If you have no movement, your crimp is fine. Doesn't take much crimp for plinking loads.

I shot some skeet and a LOT of trap back in the 1980's. Got pretty good at trap, shot decent skeet. I started with a Remington 1100 trap gun. For trap, you really need the trap stock for a higher point of impact, for skeet, a field stock will work fine as the target isn't rising as fast or as much as a trap target. Well, the single shot/over/under bug bit. I had a Browning BT-99, Rotweill combo set, Kreighoff combo, K-80 combo, and a Ljutic. I probably shot the K-80 best, but honestly, if I had stuck to the Rem 1100, I'd probably shot it just as good. Of all of those guns, I only have the 1100's left. To me, the big advantage of the O/U is if you reload, you can save your empties easier. When you are shooting in a match, it's frowned upon to hold up the squad to retrieve your empties. Matter of fact, most clubs don't allow it. More of a courtesy thing for the other shooters. In skeet, you'll shoot doubles at 4 stations if I remember correctly. In trap, using an autoloader, it's not so much an issue until you get into double (and you eventually will!). You can stick a shell catcher on for singles and handicap. Nice thing is, with an 1100, you can get a couple of different barrels, a trap stock and a field stock, and configure your gun for about anything.... without breaking the bank. There are nicer autoloaders on the market these days. Benelli and Beretta in particular, but they can cost a lot more than an 1100. Like others have said, fit is the most important thing. You can spend tons of money on a gun, but if it doesn't fit, you won't be breaking as many targets.

JReedEsq... I fired a KeltEC p-11 today. The trigger on it is a very long pull compared to my TCP. I was surprised just how long it is. I also bought a Taurus 709 and while I haven't fired it, the trigger pull is considerably shorter than the P-11.

Ooops.... that 3.2gr load I gave was for the 95gr JHP. The Berry's 100gr RN was a 2.5gr of Win 231. Just loaded some more. JReedEsq.... I have not fired an LCP, but have pulled the trigger a couple of times. I found the TCP trigger to be much more to my liking. It's considerably lighter pull. Perhaps a bit shorter too, but I won't say for sure without trying them side by side. I did have a KelTec and my TCP side by side. A good friend has the 3PAT, and when he pulled the trigger on my TCP, he was amazed how much lighter it was. I know there is more room in the trigger guard on the TCP, and it doesn't bite my trigger finger when I shoot it.

I just had my Taurus TCP out to shoot some at Gunny's this afternoon. I've got about 180 rounds thru it now. Working like a champ. I did have the slide lock back once today before the magazine was empty, but that was with a very light reload... so light that it just kind of dropped the brass at my feet. Having the brass right there nearby was nice, but probably not as much powder as I should be loading. The TCP usually kicks the brass straight back over my head(factory rounds) . I had some heavier reloads that ejected just like factory ammo. I'm loading Berry's 100 gr RN and about 3.2gr of Win 231 makes a nice shooting load. No FTF or FTE. Will probably put another 100 rounds thru it later in the week.

I was thinking about one of the oak Gerstner style tool boxes. Lots of drawers. Gerstner has a more reasonably priced "international" line mode over seas, but Harbor Freight and Grizzly tools has knock off versions around $150. Knife rolls are a good idea too.

I've seen the blue one. It may have been at the blade show at the Kershaw booth. They weren't selling anything at the show, but AG Russell was. By the time I got to their booth, all they had left was the grey/silver one and the smaller titanium version (more $$$). I think the blue one looks fine. Would have been a tough choice between the two, but I didnt have that choice. The Kershaw catalog and CRKT catalogs are worth having. Both are very nice. For those that don't know, the Blade Show is in Atlanta each June. It's the biggest knife show in the US, by a long shot. It will take all day to go thru it, and you'll still miss things. Me and my boys have been 3 or 4 times. Custom makers from all over the world, as well as the big companies... Gerber, Case, Lone Wolf (now owned by Benchmade), Benchmade, William Henry, Microtech,... you get the idea. It's not a bad drive from east or Middle TN. You won't regret going.

Yeah, I don't put either the OD-1 or the Ripple in the tactical knife catagory. Meat and potatoes is a good description. A friend of mine calls them "gentlemans knives". I had an Emerson CQC-7 with a tanto blade and never really cared for it, mainly due to the blade shape. It's a fine knife, but not a shape that is very usable for me. As my friend put it "you can't peel an apple with it". That was it exactly. Of course, you could peel an apple with it, but it got me thinking. What I like is a thinner blade. Not a thick heavy blade like most tactical knives. Now, I'm carrying a flat ground Benchmade right now, and it's about as thick as I want..... but a great knife.

Oh, I should add.... beside the CRKT Ripple, I've really impressed with the Kershaw OD-1. Really fast action, Sandvik steel, made in USA, and priced around $40 (give or take). I ordered one for my son from Amazon for $33 with free super saver shipping and no tax.

I bought the CRKT Ripple at the Blade Show back in June from AG Russell. I think I paid $75 or so. Great knife. It's extremely thin and while I've seen scale designs I like better, these make it very grip-able. I like it a lot. The ball bearing pivot is amazingly slick and with a moderate flip on the opener, it's open as fast as any assisted opening or automatic knife.....and legal in most places (I know they aren't in Michigan).

drv2fst makes a lot of sense. I would think (and I'm not an attorney) that "imminent danger of death or serious bodily injury" would be justification. I think the opportunity to retreat to safety would be the first course of action, unless you are in your home and your state recognizes "castle doctrine".

When I bought my TCP at a Knoxville gun show about 3 months ago, the best price I found on a KelTec was $239. I found my TCP for $269. I think I saw them last weekend for $259. Considering you get an extra magazine with the TCP and a belt pouch, I think it makes them comparable in price. But, the bottom line is to pick them up, look at the fit/finish, see which feels best in your hand, and make your decision based on that. I don't think you can go wrong with TCP, LCP, or KelTec. (Don't you think if KelTec called it a "KCP" it would have made it easier to discuss... or incredibly confusing?!)

I reloaded for 12 ga shotgun back in the 80's. The main reason was cost savings. At the time, shot was $12 for 25 pounds. The cost of components allowed me to load for $2 a box. Those days are gone! I was shooting trap and going thru 5000+ rounds per season. Now, my 15 year old has gotten interested in shooting and we are loading .38sp, 9mm, .380 acp on a Dillon SD. It's really enjoyable, and I can load lighter rounds (for smaller and lighter weight guns) that are more pleasant to shoot. My dad always reloaded both metallic and shotgun. I guess it runs in the family.

JC57 mentions the Bersa Thunder. I came close to buying one. It's a very nice gun and a great value (saw it in Cookeville for $259), but after comparing it for size with the Taurus 709 9mm, they are almost identical in size. The 709 may be a little thinner. The 709 is more expensive, but with the same 7+1 capacity, the more powerful/cheaper/easier to find 9mm ammo, I've decided to save my pennies a bit longer and get a 709. Still would like a Bersa Thunder some day!

I'll place my vote for the Taurus TCP. 200+ rounds and only one that didn't quite feed all the way. That was the first time I took it out, and hadn't taken it apart and cleaned it before shooting it. After cleaning, no more issues. Just for good measure, I polished the ramp the other day. I like it because it just fits my hand better than the LCP or KelTec. The grip is just a little longer (front to back). Also, I think the trigger is just a bit lighter. However, I'd be happy with the LCP or KelTec, as long as they function as well as the TCP. Oh yes, the TCP has a little more room in the trigger guard.

I think Harbor Freight has them for $59 right now. I've heard that demineralized water is really good for cleaning... much better than distilled. Not sure why.

Went to the gun show in Knoxville yesterday and there were two folks set up sharpening knives. Also one couple near the entry door that had a nice display of knies for sale, and some decent prices. I still want the Lone Wolf Diablo d/a!!!

Lone Wolf knives are impressive. I'd love to have a Diablo or Blackfoot d/a. I hope Benchmade continues to make most of the same models from the LW line. If you buy Benchmade, watch out as some are made overseas. I think if it comes in a red box, it's made overseas. Blue and black box Benchmades are US made. I bought a Benchmade mini Barrage at a recent knife show. Retail is $125. 154CM steel, assisted opening, very well made. You should be able to find someone selling them for under $100.

I've not owned a ceramic blade, but have heard they are somewhat brittle. Kershaw is a very good knife, but I think you'll see a big difference in edge holding ability with a different steel than they commonly use. Look for something with 154CM or ATS34. I bought a new Benchmade at the knife show in Knoxville a couple of months ago. It has a 154CM blade and is holding up great. Other good steels available as well.