Jonnin

The R stance on gays is as foolish as the D stance on guns. I am mostly a conservative/R but I stand by the freedoms of this country along with having the government NOT involved in people's lives anymore than is necessary. So, with those 2 nutty ideas, I support gay rights as a freedom and think its none of government's business who marrys/sleeps with who (consenting, of age, etc). That puts me at odds with many R's, but thats ok. I also support the constitution as it stands, which means I am not all that thrilled with certain R folks that want to trash on the 14th (is that right? the born here = citizen one, I get numbers mixed up). Other than those I mostly agree with the R platform, though. Everyone has their little differences with the party system and MOST people dislike the extremists on BOTH sides, unfortunately the loud, small minority at the fringes of both parties has had a lot of influence this past decade.

Certain rugers are quite affordable and very well made, reliable guns. Their .22s for the most part are awesome (10/22, mark's, etc) and affordable. Their cheap 9 family & friends (P85/89 family and so forth) are rugged, reliable, and inexpensive (if a bit less than target-pistol accurate). Certain revolvers are good yet reasonable (others are insanely high priced). I don't think your blanket statement fits their whole product line at all, though they do have plenty of overpriced goods (lcp/lc9) and outright lemons (20 safetys on the LC9? 22 charger that costs MORE than the rifle version and is less accurate than the marks?! ). Im sure the 1911 market will bear another model in the mix. Hopefully they made it a midrange gun, $750ish with ruger quality and hopefully good accuracy. Odds are, though, it won't be a must have item. I am honestly shocked we havent seen this from every maker, trying to cash in on some 100 year action, but so far its been a lot less 100 year stuff than I expected. WTB $200 kel tec p1911...

There is one more thought: Rifle shooters know to let the gun cool between shots, some folks shoot one round in 5 min or so, others shoot 10 and lt it sit, etc. 200 rounds could be making the gun hot which could make your accuracy suffer somewhat. I do not know, never gotten a pistol super hot, but it might be a thought. yet anouther thought: Have you tried a fresh target or a paster? After a while all you have to aim at is a hole, the X is gone and all that... I find I struggle with NRA targets (big black ring with nothing precise to aim at, just zen the middle of the huge target) and when a target is full of holes, I have the same issue. Maybe you need to replace the target or patch it up every 50 shots.

Its still got a fair amount of left in it. I reconstructed the target ring best I could (mirror image, cutout the mirrored ring, put it back in, rough and fast job) to overlay it. A large number of shots are outside that reconstructed ring, maybe 30 or so, so more than 10%? Thats significant --- and the ring on the right side is intact! This target shows the up/down is fine, but L/R needs something.

Thats the important part. If the ATF guy is willing to go there and the case was dismissed, the answer has been given. I am concerned that someone feels it was OK to arrest the guy over a "dangerous weapon" (all the weapons carried on a HCP are dangerous, at least I hope so, should the person ever actually have to use the weapon), or feels that it was OK to arrest because the permit holder's buddies were of questionable character. Neither of these things are acceptable and the DA is flat out wrong here --- its the entire basis of our system that folks are innocent until proven otherwise, yet the DA is making a case for guilty until proven innocent... not a good stance.

The 41 is accepted by the bullseye community, I would go there to read about this gun in detail. I have not had a chance to try one out. I wonder if the upcoming S&W party will have one to try out, they may have some to try out (?). Again, if you want to know *for sure* if the left thingy is trigger squeeze, lock the gun into a rest, aim it (rest and all), then see where the bullet goes when you fire it from the device. If it hits where you aimed, its YOU. If it hits off to the left, fix he sights. ALso, looking at your pic again, are you a touch low as well on the average? I would consider bumping it up one click, the rest-test would tell you that too. When you shoot your drills for defense, what gun do you use? Is *every* gun you shoot off to the left? If so, you have your answer. If its worse with a defensive type gun (DA or DAO or whatever horrid trigger guns), is it worse because the longer trigger pulls are making it worse?! That also would be an answer.

It is not common. Most places designate rifle vs pistol ranges but usually its "OK" to use either weapon on either range. Most of people with powerful rifles don't *want* to shoot at a 20 yard target on the pistol range but a few 223 or 22LR or similar rifles are used on those. Most folks do not shoot long range pistol but pistol hunters and bullseye shooters DO and at most ranges this is welcomed. Bullseye has an alternate set of rules for indoor ranges that use smaller targets. You can use those just fine, though it won't help you sight in your gun for the longer ranges, it will let you practice the discipline of the sport. If you have nowhere else to go. But look around for another outdoor range --- most of them, in my experience, will allow a pistol on rifle ranges. You might also try talking to the range officer or somone in charge about the rule. Explain that the sport requires 50 yards and that pistol hunters need a place to practice so they can remain competent and make clean shots, so long range capable pistols should be allowed for up to 200 yards at the very least.

It appears to be intact enough to get the weight as well (?). I would guess at a 30/30 but if you grab the outer diameter, length, and weight, you can probably get close to the truth. It was fired probably, those look like rifling marks in the pic -- though you never know it could have gotten stuck in the barrel, been bashed out with a cleaning rod to make the "hollow point", and discarded.... I am guessing its modern enough to not have a very interesting history unless you found it near a skeleton.

The AKs might be used by informal militant groups, alongside the regular AKs, some of those guys use whatever they can get. But formal use? Probably not a lot.

Supposedly the expensive ammo is better, read the bullseye shooter's forums on that topic. Mini mags have a pretty consistent bullet. What can vary more is the powder. If you weigh 200 of them and pick them to be the same, it may cut out the flyers at the cost of extreme mental anguish or wasted time. So, either buy the $50 a brick stuff or spend an hour or 2 at the scale... cheap ammo has fliers, for sure. If the trigger is moving you, you may be ready for a high grade trigger or more pricy gun. While the $300 target guns are amazing, you will eventually outgrow them for a hammer or other pricy gun with a better trigger and higher accuracy build. ? I don't know, but it could be time for it. Are you absolutely sure your gun's sights are not off a tiny bit? Can your instructor put them downrange without being slightly off? Have you tried the gun in a rest, no human errors? How much do you know (what can we eliminate?) ?!

Its not worth spending more money. Pick the weaker load to try first. Does it cycle the action, can it knock down the targets? If not, bump it up to the next one. So long as the first load is not too weak and the second is not higher than your max load data for the round, its fine. You have many options, really. -You can dip powder with some sort of dipper, or scale, or something - you can buy a better measure or device or disk, etc - you can use a different powder that gets you closer to your perfect load using the disk thingy - you can just go with what you have, pick one of the 2 possible loadings and roll with it You can also be creative. You could gently open up the smaller hole to get it closer to what you want, with sandpaper or something. Or you could try to fill the larger hole with some glue or something then play with it until its what you need. Of course, this is probably being TOO cheap, but if you only plan to load a couple of calibers, opening up that smaller hole to let just a lil bit more thu it would be very easy to do.

Not sure if this is sound rationale, so please correct me where I'm wrong. Both of my 9mm's cycle WWB flawlessly. I measured several and used their average OAL as my target for the rounds I made. IIRC, the OAL was 1.15. A few of the first were JUST slightly off (1.125-1.175). The ones that didn't cycle were amongst these that varied before I got it "set" like I wanted it. I suspect they were the longer ones. The feed issues and the "duds" were all 4 in my Glock 34. My CZ P-01 had no issues with any of my loads. In fact, the first 5 went in it and the 2nd 5 went in the Glock. I'd have expected the CZ to have the least consistent rounds in it, but it did fine. ------------------------ The important things are 1) how close the butt of the round is to the powder (closer = pressure, too close = bad) and 2) ability to cycle. If your OAL is larger than the value listed for that load in your load data, is not just barely in the case, and cycles cleanly, its fine. I would say keep it under the cartridge max but I doubt you will ever get close to that value. ------------------------ I definitely wanted lower recoil round for the range, but I also want a round that I can rely on to knock down steel in IDPA and meet their minimum power factor. The MPF is 125,000, so for 9mm I can achieve this with 115 gr X 1087 fps, 124 gr X 1009 fps, or 147 gr X 851 fps). I can get there using any of these, but I figured the heavier the bullet, the less recoil. Right/wrong? ------------------------ Wrong? Force is MA, and equal/opposite reaction and stuff. Or momentum, MV, might be more appropriate. But either way, the forces are directly related to BOTH the mass AND the speed, so, basically, its a wash. The same momentum/energy/force is the same no matter how you got there. Use what you like, I was just saying you might can save a buck, its a minor cost difference usually but it adds up over thousands of rounds. The recoil should be about the same regardless. ------------------------ I know this. In fact, I think you even warned me. No excuse other than zeal and lack of good sense. I guess I was over-confident, b/c I got the load data I used from some veteran IDPA guys who reload their own ammo. Any changes/experiments will be smaller batches from now on. ------------------------ Heh, well I did the same, its how I know... ------------------------ The pics of barrells peeled back like bananas, mangled flesh, and exploded polymer frames scared me bad enough. Then I remembered the imprint in a wood beam at my local range from a revolver cylinder when the gun blew up. That's all I could think of when I weighed those first dozen or 2 powder charges to make sure they were right. ------------------------ Yea its scary. But in the end, just be careful & have respect for what you are doing, and all will be well. ------------------------

it depends on what email client (or web based) you are using. The local client stuff (outlook, thunderbird, etc) you can treat them like icons (click and mash the delete key on the keyboard, ctrl or shift clicks can select multiples to delete). Web based clients (you get the email from google in a web page) work as above usually (check box, then choose the delete action from a nearby button or dropdown selection). Note that you should delete emails with large attachments to clear up a LOT of space from one click. Regular email is tiny, and you need a billion of them to run out of space, but just one large attachment of video, images, or files can fill an inbox in a hurry. --------- By the way, I love your work.

The oil in question is designed for wood, tongue oil is one type that can be used, there are several others as well. It will soak in, seal the wood, but does not make the stock "oily" if that was your concern. I think some of these can turn the wood darker over time. Since the gun was stripped, you can really do *anything* at all with the stock now without really hurting the value any more than has already been done. Seal it with a clear wood sealer, paint it, stain it, oil it, any of those will work. There is a type of varnish/stain with wax built in as well if you want a wax type finish; this stuff can be buffed to a very nice shine. It does matter what sort of shape the wood is in now; was it sanded? Chemistry finish remover and scraped? Its it back to natural wood color or still some stain in places? Etc? I am no expert, just a dabbler, but you could choose from a wide variety of products at this point.

Im sorry, but the stock glock 19 is a weak choice for sharpshooting at long range IMHO. The trigger pull alone means constant pulling your gun off target as you squeeze (no bang), squeeze (still no bang) ..... finally, after nearly an inch of travel, bang. On top of this they have short barrels, poorish sights, and high recoil (due to light weight build -- the 19c can help a bit here). The barrels in these guns flop around somewhat, so each shot can be a bit off from the last. Glocks are great short range WEAPONS, not target guns. Heck they won't even cycle on target loads, you have to put in a new set of springs or use stout loads in them. They have their place, but this type of shooting is not what they excel at. You can modify a glock to be decent (de-slop the trigger, target barrel, tighen up the barrel wiggle) but it takes know-how, tools, and money to get it done. Once done, a "target glock" is not safe for chambered carry, its a competition gun only at that point and should never be loaded unless pointed downrange due to the fixed trigger and lack of safety (the long trigger was part of the safety and has been compromised). If you want a 9mm target gun, get a 1911 9mm or one of the single action EAA witness or similar guns. Most DA, DAO, and "safe" action 9mm are very poor choices for high precision shooting. There are almost NO .40 caliber target guns apart from making your own. There are a TON of .45 AP target guns, and you can get a pretty decent one for $750 + a new bushing to get started with the 1911 setups. At the end of the day, you really want a single action gun with a long fixed barrel (or one that returns to exactly the same spot each time, this is why you need a bushing in the 1911s) for target work. A DA or SA revolver is PERFECT for marksmanship and is an inexpensive alternative to having a gunsmith build a target gun out of a semi-auto. Few guns are as accurate as a fixed barrel revolver with a light SA pull for the money spent. A .45 Long Colt revolver is close to a tuned 1911 out of the box, if you choose a good model, for 1/3 or less the price --- and they shoot effectively the same round. The .22 LR guns I mentioned above all have fixed barrels as semi-autos.

It depends on what the break *does*. Flash hiding and recoil compensation are fine. Noise suppression is not legal. I am pretty sure that military grade noise redirection is also illegal (not totally sure about them or if they can even be owned) (these make it sound as if the shot were from another location). Noise redirection in a normal cone that reduces the sound for the shooter only seems to be acceptable (IE its a little quieter for the shooter than it is for the guy to the side of the shooter). That is as best as I understand it from researching the question, and that means its a big fat zero in terms of legal verification.

The one thing I didnt see listed here amongst the advice is equipment. If your gun stinks, you cannot improve, but if you *know* that your gun is good, then you can work on "yourself" to improve. This does not have to cost you thousands of dollars, either. Get a good .22 target pistol (the big 3 are buckmarks, ruger mark's, and S&W 22 A or the other S&W model) with longer barrel setups (6-7 inches usually). Poke a decent cheap red dot site on them is recommended for longer ranges (30+ feet up to 50 yards or so) or a pistol scope (beyond 50 yards). Total cost for a decent setup is well under $500, less for a used pistol. And, learning on a .22 will help you get used to not flinching (easier to not flinch when there is little recoil and noise), costs less (1000 rounds for $30!), etc. Whatever you use, a basic setup only has to meet 3 things: 1) the gun, if mounted in a rest, makes a tight group, 2) the sighting device/sights/whatever can be adjusted to keep it on target and do not drift off each trip to the range and 3) the trigger is good enough that you do not pull the gun off target due to muscle forces on the trigger. Now, thats not the end of it for really good shooting, of course. Once you master your skills with a decent setup as above, you can THEN choose to spend some money on exotic target grips, better guns and sighting devices, trigger jobs, etc. But the above will let you get a long, long way toward your goals.

The OAL can be inside a decent range. Any 9mm can be up to 1.17 long (from memory, I could be off), and however short you can make it without blowing it up or causing feed problems (there may be an offical value, seems to be around 1.10 ish). I generally add some to the OAL on the assumption that the listed value is the min OAL for safety. So, if the load data says seat it to 1.05, I would probably seat it to 1.1 or 1.15 just to relax the pressure a little bit and give myself a margin for error. Also, heavier bullets "usually" cost slightly more. If the goal is a light target load for fun at the range, you might try the 115 grains to save a couple dollars per box (but check the price, usually isnt always). Also, making 50 untried bullets will bite you one day, if they do not cycle the action or do not fire or something. What if all 50 of those had failed to fire like the first few or failed to cycle your action? I recommend only making 5-10 test cases, try them out, and wait to make bulk production of known working loads. I also cringed a bit pulling the trigger the first time on my reloads. Its a bit scary if, during your research, you ran across all the blown up gun pictures! The one thing I do now with reloads is to check the barrel if a round did not cycle the action. After getting one bullet stuck in the barrel, I am extra paranoid about that danger.

The plr is 100% a pistol. Its 9 inch barrel, sold as a handgun, designated as a handgun, and you have to pay fees and do stuff to make it not a handgun. The barrel wrapping forend adds a rail for a laser sight, flashlight, or other things and is NOT a forward grip under any normal defination of that term. It does not require the AOW paperwork, does not make it "no longer a pistol", etc. A true grip attached to this rail WOULD make the gun no longer a pistol, at which time it is no longer acceptable for carry under a HCP. I have tried to get a straight answer on this stuff, the above is as I understad it today. Asking at the baft, they do not really know, and I could not get a straight answer to the question. Techincally, in TN (possibly nationally too) all pistols must be usable one handed (but, it does not say who the user is, could be 140 year old that can barely breathe without help or a bodybuilder that can fire a rifle one handed) so depending on the user, the term pistol may or may not be ok for large pistols.... it makes no sense, if you read all the rules and definations, the stuff is so poorly worded a case can be made every which way.

The frame mostly, its just got a lot of parts that have to be just so to reassemble -- the big trick is order of operations which the online guide really nails. Without it, I probably would have needed a smith's help.

but I dont mind the free lock I get every purchase. Found all sorts of uses for them.

If that head is not designed for AQ usage, it may not be good for the fish -- just tossing any old decoration in there can lead to trouble as some plastics release nastys in water. Or, to put it another way, BHO is toxic in any form...

yes, its pretty bad. I used this link when I did mine: CZ-82 Disassembly and Assembly And, as he said, getting it back together is the hard part, but his pics and order of operations is very well done.

You cannot hurt the outside of the barrel if you don't abuse it, polish away. Here, even if you are a little heavy handed, it will still be ok. Just avoid borking the crown, feed ramp, and chamber areas.

It was here: Which is totally unlike anything I said at all. --------------- And the general sarcasm that destroyed the entire discussion. But if you insist, I can be a jerk too. Apparently, if the TN government made this law, it would be "gun control": All background checks and gun checks (serial number) shall be done for free upon demand, but not required. I conceded right away that mandatory checks would be uncool -- someone corrected me, and I agreed. The idea was twofold: saves all of us money, and if we WANT to we can, as a seller, check the buyer, and we can, as a buyer, verify that the gun is not stolen/flagged. If we do not want to, we can just face to face and skip the checks. No one had a single constructive thing to say about that, not you nor anyone else: the discussion is pointless due to sarcasm and irrational jackassery. Now for real, forget it, I give and am not going to bother with the thread again -- there is no discussion worth having here now.