Ruger SR 9 upgrades?

[Guest cdsusong]

Does anyone know of any upgrades or aftermarket items for the Ruger SR 9? Mostly I am interested in trigger, guide rod and spring. Any Kydex other than the Fobus available? Prefer Blackhawk Serpa. Thanks

[Smith]

When I was choosing between the SR9 and the M&P I discovered there wasn't much out there in the way of aftermarket upgrades/accessories for the SR9. The trigger also needed some work and I couldn't find much on it. That's why i went with the M&P. I'm sure there will be some but like any new gun it will take a year or two or more for those kinda things to get to the market. You can also try a search here. http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/

[Guest CK1]

right now it's limited... but from what i've heard from a few companies, not for long, people are starting to buy up the pistols, and the recall fiasco is in the rear-view.

i just got a fiber-optic front sight from hiviz for mine and it's great. it's the newer over-molded style which is way stronger/tougher, but not quite as bright in low light as their older style... it'll most likely kick ass for TN a.m. IDPA shoots though...

i learned a fantastic way to fix up/lighten the trigger through a gunsmith on the rugerforum that has mine clicking sweet around 4.5lbs.

when you go through the 30 second process of taking out the striker assembly to remove the magazine disconnect safety (which most will do... and should do if you plan on doing IDPA shoots, dry-firing w/o a mag until you remove the disconnect will ruin the striker/pistol), you can clip a coil or 2 off the striker spring w/o any adverse effects (the striker spring is over-built and even a few coils down, has more than enough punch to ignite primers reliably). i took off a 1/2 a coil at a time until i ended up with a 4.5lb pull, and hundreds of rounds later, no problems, now the trigger is sweet. i'm going to order a replacement spring from ruger for just in case, then find out how much i can take it down while remaining reliable... one of the benefits of the thumb safety is that a really light trigger won't become a safety liability.

it's funny, the only thing i don't like about the SR9 is that it's "some disassembly required"!

i've got a fobus hk1 that fits perfect 100%, it was originally listed for an H&K Compact, so... i would try a Serpa for an H&K Compact and see if it fits.

Edited December 31, 2008 by CK1

[Steelharp]

Comp-Tac makes kydex for the SR9, I'm waiting for one to show up now. Great pistol!

[Guest cdsusong]

Hey CK1, sounds like that is exactly what I need to do to the trigger. I would like to use the SR9 in IDPA in the spring so now would be the time to "tweak". I don't have a clue on the tear down of the inner works and I seriously doubt any of the shops around here have ever tore one down either. If you could send me some serious detailed instructions I would try it myself. Thanks and hope to hear from you.

[Guest CK1]

if you search "sr9 magazine disconnect removal" over at rugerforum.com there is an excellent thread w/ pics on how to do it, once you do it once it'll take you 30 seconds to put the mag DC in or out....

i also posted the trigger lightening process in detail over there ("SR9 Trigger Lightening Magic").... it's easy as pie if you have a pair of needle nose wire cutters and just a pinch harder if you don't and have to take apart the striker assembly.... trust me, i'm no gunsmith, it's easy....

hey, on a side note, for IDPA you might want to rethink the Serpa holster... many tactics schools and LE academies are banning them, seems putting downward/inward pressure on your trigger finger while drawing under stress is leading to more AD/ND's than normal... personally, i like the original fobus, but a lot of guys dig the comp-tac's or bladetech's...

Edited January 1, 2009 by CK1

[Guest cdsusong]

Hey CK1,Thanks for the info on the trigger as well as the holster. Great info to have. Thanks again.

[Steelharp]

if you search "sr9 magazine disconnect removal" over at rugerforum.com there is an excellent thread w/ pics on how to do it

Can you be more specific with a link? That search yields 77 pages...

[Guest CK1]

http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=17201&highlight=sr9

[Steelharp]

How many hands does this take? I can't figure this out. It looks like I have to push down the striker blocker, press somewhere at the metal tab near the striker, stick a paper clip in the back, and push down on the back plate all at the same time! It ain't working for me...

[Guest CK1]

first push down the striker blocker (round metal thing) and make sure you've pushed the striker assembly as far forward as you can with the tab that's sticking up from the striker channel, if you don't do this you'll never get it, then pushing in the pin w/ a paper clip or whatever and sliding off the back plate should be pretty easy.

[Steelharp]

The tab only moves backward toward the plate, not forward...

[Guest CK1]

when it's in the forward position you should able to get the back plate off if you push the pin (inside the little hole in the backplate) in all the way with your implement.

[Guest bheard]

right now it's limited... but from what i've heard from a few companies, not for long, people are starting to buy up the pistols, and the recall fiasco is in the rear-view.

i just got a fiber-optic front sight from hiviz for mine and it's great. it's the newer over-molded style which is way stronger/tougher, but not quite as bright in low light as their older style... it'll most likely kick ass for TN a.m. IDPA shoots though...

i learned a fantastic way to fix up/lighten the trigger through a gunsmith on the rugerforum that has mine clicking sweet around 4.5lbs.

when you go through the 30 second process of taking out the striker assembly to remove the magazine disconnect safety (which most will do... and should do if you plan on doing IDPA shoots, dry-firing w/o a mag until you remove the disconnect will ruin the striker/pistol), you can clip a coil or 2 off the striker spring w/o any adverse effects (the striker spring is over-built and even a few coils down, has more than enough punch to ignite primers reliably). i took off a 1/2 a coil at a time until i ended up with a 4.5lb pull, and hundreds of rounds later, no problems, now the trigger is sweet. i'm going to order a replacement spring from ruger for just in case, then find out how much i can take it down while remaining reliable... one of the benefits of the thumb safety is that a really light trigger won't become a safety liability.

it's funny, the only thing i don't like about the SR9 is that it's "some disassembly required"!

i've got a fobus hk1 that fits perfect 100%, it was originally listed for an H&K Compact, so... i would try a Serpa for an H&K Compact and see if it fits.

I would like to disconnect the mag safety on mine. How do you do it?

Bh

[Steelharp]

ck... I just noticed we're both in Gallatin! Wanna meet somewhere?

[Guest CK1]

sure, a bit later (around noon or so), PM me your number. if the indoor shooting academy is open or maybe guns & leather i'm going to go shooting later...

[Guest CK1]

I would like to disconnect the mag safety on mine. How do you do it?

Bh

http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/view...&highlight=sr9

[Guest cdsusong]

just got mine out! took a little thinking and tinkering but I got it. you are right, press the round large pin near the chamber down, then slide the striker forward, then press in the pin at the plate and slide the plate off. Pull the mag block out, repeat the process to get the plate back on. Now what about trimming the spring on the striker to lighten the trigger pull?

[Guest CK1]

just got mine out! took a little thinking and tinkering but I got it. you are right, press the round large pin near the chamber down, then slide the striker forward, then press in the pin at the plate and slide the plate off. Pull the mag block out, repeat the process to get the plate back on. Now what about trimming the spring on the striker to lighten the trigger pull?

http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=43695

!!! remember you need to get the coil or coils off without ruining the spring or making it "out of round" so it will slide in and out of the assembly as normal... if you can't get it done cleanly while attached you'll have to take the spring off then clip it (i'm mentioning this because in the other thread it already sounds like someone found that out the hard way...).

[Guest cdsusong]

yeah I took a photo of the spring on the striker and where I believe it should be cut, but I don't know how to get the photo on this reply. Any help there? I see what you say about small needle nose to cut the spring. It is tight in there.

[Guest CK1]

use phototbucket.com to turn the pic into code

[Guest cdsusong]

well i tried the photobucket and for some reason there is an issue. anyway, take 2 coils off the plunger side or the striker pin side? I believe the plunger (back) side would be correct?

[Guest CK1]

well i tried the photobucket and for some reason there is an issue. anyway, take 2 coils off the plunger side or the striker pin side? I believe the plunger (back) side would be correct?

plunger side. start w/ only 1 coil... then decide if you want to go further. IMPORTANT not all springs are created equal, so before you take off too much reassemble the gun and dry fire it a few times to feel the change and to feel out that the striker is still snapping w/ enough force to ignite a primer... if yours is like mine you'll have no problem taking out more, but feel it out so it will function properly before you go too far.

[Guest cdsusong]

Ok. I need to run to lowes and get me some snips and then I should be good to go. Thanks again and you are correct, 10 seconds or less and you can have the striker out once you know what to do. Looks like some trigger time today!

[Guest CK1]

cool. having the right tools makes most jobs easier (if only i remembered that every time i started a project!)... let us know how it works out. cheers.