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Snaveba

P365XL Difficultly Racking Slide Discussion

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Posted (edited)

I love my P365XL. The only issue I have, and I have seen this discussed other places, is the difficulty there can be when racking the slide. Specifically getting the slide to start moving back. It is not terrible, but not as easy as my M&Ps. Any other P365XL (or P365) owners have this issue? 

I have watched a couple YouTube vids where they have complained about this  then shot several hundred rounds to try and “loosen it up”.  (An example)


After trouble shooting mine, I have determined the “why”.  It is the disconnector making the slide hard to rack.25AC2E2D-23F8-4A36-96DA-D7D62CCC7DB0.thumb.jpeg.995ef3cf40ac0af8535b9e01ad40f14b.jpeg

This is spring loaded and when depressed by the slide, disconnects the trigger from the sear. When the slide is at battery, the disconnector sits in this notch on the slide allowing the trigger to connect with the seat.16C40C65-A4B9-471B-979D-D9E6B3905A92.thumb.jpeg.7249d92b48977a44f9e6917f4109f15e.jpeg

When the slide moves back, the disconnector is depressed as it exits the notch, disconnecting the trigger from the sear.

I have determined that between the poor angles either side of the notch, the angles of either side of the disconnector, and well and some possible binding in the mechanism, this makes racking the slide difficult as it tries to depress the disconnector. 54846A17-2EA5-4A87-9F40-7DE23CCD5F55.thumb.jpeg.6d4986b7295f4415741270cdf1a0d06c.jpeg

I tested my theory by removing the disconnector. Without it in place, the pistol racks like butter.

My two questions for the wisdom of the TGO are:

1- is the disconnector really that important? I don’t see many situations where I might pull the trigger when the slide is not at battery, but is close enough that the firing pin could strike the primer with enough force to ignite.

2- Apart from removing the disconnector,  what do you think I could do to make the parts work together more smoothly? 

 

Edited by Snaveba

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I have noticed the difficulty in racking the slide as well. and Im interested in possible solutions.

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7 hours ago, Snaveba said:

My two questions for the wisdom of the TGO are:

1- is the disconnector really that important? I don’t see many situations where I might pull the trigger when the slide is not at battery, but is close enough that the firing pin could strike the primer with enough force to ignite.

2- Apart from removing the disconnector,  what do you think I could do to make the parts work together more smoothly? 

 

Short of checking each round how would you know if you were fully in battery?

I don’t know what would happen if you took the disconnector out. But scroll down to “Pulling the trigger” in this animation. It says without the disconnector the gun would jam.

Since you have determined there is a problem with either the fit or the thickness of the disconnector; I would send it back to Sig for repair.

https://animagraffs.com/how-a-handgun-works-1911-45/

 

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I did find a post on a Sig site where they were told to let the disconnector “break in”. I have asked Sig as well and described my observations (including the ease of racking with the disconnector removed) to them. I will post their response. 

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1 minute ago, DaveTN said:

I don’t know what would happen if you took the disconnector out. But scroll down to “Pulling the trigger” in this animation. It says without the disconnector the gun would jam

https://animagraffs.com/how-a-handgun-works-1911-45/

 

I think, but am not certain, that the disconnector in an striker fired pistol works differently than in a hammer fired pistol. 

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1 hour ago, DaveTN said:

Since you have determined there is a problem with either the fit or the thickness of the disconnector; I would send it back to Sig for repair

 

If I have to I will. Unfortunately I am the second owner so I don’t have the warranty. 

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1 hour ago, DaveTN said:

Short of checking each round how would you know if you were fully in battery?

Well, it is my understanding that the reason for the disconnector is to prevent the trigger from releasing the firing pin before the slide is fully seated. If you push the side back far enough (putting it in an out of battery condition) the trigger will not engage the sear.  My question is how often does this really happen such that you might try to fire the pistol with the slide not seated. And secondly, if the slide was not seated, would the pin still be able to strike the primer correctly. I am basically questioning the real life need for the disconnector. 

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7 minutes ago, Snaveba said:

My question is how often does this really happen such that you might try to fire the pistol with the slide not seated. And secondly, if the slide was not seated, would the pin still be able to strike the primer correctly. I am basically questioning the real life need for the disconnector. 

I don't know, but if the pistol fired out of battery it would only need to happen once to destroy it and possibly hurt whoever was shooting it.

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Makes sense. I was not advocating removing the disconnector, just more of a question I was pondering. Safety features are there for a reason. 😀. I just want the disconnector on the my Sig to interfere less with the action of racking the pistol. 

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Re-reading my original post, it might come across that I wanted to remove the disconnector. I probably should not post at 0130 when I’m tired.

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Could you re-shape the disconnector and/or the notch to make it move over a greater length of travel?  Could you install a lighter spring so it's easier to move?

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I was wondering about re-shaping the leading edge of the disconnector, specifically the right side (as you look at it) since this is the edge that the slide contacts when racking. Making the angle more shallow may make it easier. The biggest issue here may be that changing the dimensions of disconnector  may effect when it engages or disengaged the trigger.

The spring that controls the up/down tension on the disconnector is also part of the trigger return. 

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4 hours ago, Snaveba said:

I was wondering about re-shaping the leading edge of the disconnector, specifically the right side (as you look at it) since this is the edge that the slide contacts when racking. Making the angle more shallow may make it easier. The biggest issue here may be that changing the dimensions of disconnector  may effect when it engages or disengaged the trigger.

The spring that controls the up/down tension on the disconnector is also part of the trigger return. 

Does the slide move any distance rearward before contacting the disconnector, or does it lock into place just as the slide closes?

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4 hours ago, peejman said:

Does the slide move any distance rearward before contacting the disconnector, or does it lock into place just as the slide closes?

About a mm of travel back before the slide contacts the disconnector.

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9 hours ago, Snaveba said:

About a mm of travel back before the slide contacts the disconnector.

That's not much room to work.

How far does the disconnector have to move before it disconnects?

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So, the slide moves back about 1/16 inch (1.5mm) before it contacts the disconnector. The disconnector needs to depress about 1/16 inch (1.5mm) before the trigger disconnects from actuating the sear. Finally, the distance along the slide (the ~45 deg. sloped portion of the notch) from where the slide contacts the disconnector and the disconnector is depressed the maximum (3/32 inch) it will be depressed is 3/32 inch. 

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2 hours ago, Snaveba said:

So, the slide moves back about 1/16 inch (1.5mm) before it contacts the disconnector. The disconnector needs to depress about 1/16 inch (1.5mm) before the trigger disconnects from actuating the sear. Finally, the distance along the slide (the ~45 deg. sloped portion of the notch) from where the slide contacts the disconnector and the disconnector is depressed the maximum (3/32 inch) it will be depressed is 3/32 inch. 

I doubt you'll be able to do much by modifying the disconnector or notch without compromising its function.  Changing springs might be a better solution.  You might look carefully and see if polishing any of the mating surfaces might make it run a little smoother. 

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On 3/5/2020 at 9:11 AM, Snaveba said:

I have asked Sig as well and described my observations (including the ease of racking with the disconnector removed) to them. I will post their response. 

What did SIG say?

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Thank you for contacting Sig Sauer

 The pistols are made very tightly and there is a 250-300 round break in period where it may become a little easier.  We can certainly bring in the firearm for inspection to see if everything is within specs.”

I did order a new disconnector from Sig ($9). They do not have a separate Small Parts Shopper page for the P365XL so I ordered the one for the P365.

Comparing the two, the leading edge of the one I ordered of definitely a shallower angle than the one that was installed on my P365XL.

43B1CE4F-69C5-4B76-9149-70CB07759DCF.thumb.jpeg.e6ee4a8cedcaa1ba084f7d789f0d6901.jpeg
 

The P365XL is on the left, new on the right. I did do a small amount of fine sanding on the one on the left, so originally the angle was slightly steeper. (I wish I had waited until the new one can in).

It does feel easier to rack with the new piece installed.

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4 hours ago, Snaveba said:

Thank you for contacting Sig Sauer

 The pistols are made very tightly and there is a 250-300 round break in period where it may become a little easier.  We can certainly bring in the firearm for inspection to see if everything is within specs.”

I did order a new disconnector from Sig ($9). They do not have a separate Small Parts Shopper page for the P365XL so I ordered the one for the P365.

Comparing the two, the leading edge of the one I ordered of definitely a shallower angle than the one that was installed on my P365XL.

43B1CE4F-69C5-4B76-9149-70CB07759DCF.thumb.jpeg.e6ee4a8cedcaa1ba084f7d789f0d6901.jpeg
 

The P365XL is on the left, new on the right. I did do a small amount of fine sanding on the one on the left, so originally the angle was slightly steeper. (I wish I had waited until the new one can in).

It does feel easier to rack with the new piece installed.

One of the first things I do when I get a new pistol is clean it and use only a tiny bit of lube. Then I sit on the couch and cycle the slide a couple hundred times.  Then I look for witness marks where it's rubbing or burrs and perhaps polish those areas a little. 

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I have been to the range since I sanded and polished the disconnector to soften the angle a small amount. I have not Made it to the range since swapping the disconnectors. I feel pretty confident that all should be safe. It does not make sense that the disconnector would change (for the worse) between the P365 and the P365XL. They are basically the same frame and chassis. Everything is swappable. You can run a P365XL slide and barrel on a P365 and vise versa. You can put the chassis of a P365 in a P365XL frame with either slide.  The trigger is slightly different.

Think I have anything to worry about with the swapped disconnector?

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