Reloaders Unite! Help me make a primer for new reloaders!

[musicman]

Hey Guys,

We seem to have more and more people starting to reload now, which is AWESOME! I get lots of PMs asking how to start out loading and that doesn't bother me, but I know I don't know everything, and that most of you here probably have more experience than I do. Also, we all have our favorite brands of equpiment and styles of reloading. We also all have different goals for ou loads (precision rifle, cheap high-volume practice, etc) so I feel like I may be shorting someone when they only hear my opinion. I also have been busier and busier with work, and can't get back to everyone as quick as I like.

What I'd like to put together is a catch-all, something we can point the new reloader towards to help give them a basic idea of the process, equipment, and time required, as well as the resources they'll need, such as recommended manuals and other reading or training.

I'm asking for your help! Can you all post up everything you'd tell a new loader? Go through everything you think is important, and feel free to post the links you use/have used to other sites that helped you. I'll then compile all of this into one thread and make it a sticky. Sound good?

Thanks!

James

[Ridgerunner665]

I'll start by recommending that a new reloader buy a book called the "ABC's of Modern Reloading".

Later tonight I'll try to add a few hints and tips from my own experience...Right now I'm on my way to pick up my wife's new XD 45 Compact.

[herr.baer]

I'll start by recommending that a new reloader buy a book called the "ABC's of Modern Reloading".

I second this book. It is a must have for new reloaders.

[Westwindmike]

This looks like a decent site:

http://www.breadonthewaters.com/0167_reload_ammo.html

Edited February 17, 2009 by Westwindmike

[Guest bheard]

Best book you can buy. All you need to get started.

BH

[et45]

Buy quality equipment to begin with.Lee makes good dies but their presses are not very durable.At the least start with a RCBS Partner or Rockchucker to learn on and if you can afford it go ahead and get a Dillon because when it comes down to it you get what you pay for and with the Dillon it is the best customer service and technical support in the reloading industry.

[Guest DaG]

One word.......Dillon. Buy once,cry once. I have never read any books. Then again, all of the rds. I load are for USPSA competition and exceed SAAMI specs. Find an expeirenced reloader and pick their brain apart. If you're gonna load pistol, you will be wasting time on a single stage. Buy a progressive, and get it over with because once you start,the single stage will be waaayyy too slow. A Dillon Square Deal B loads pistol only and comes setup with one caliber of your choice. Once you get used to it, you can crank out 400 rds per hr no problem. A 550B will load rifle and pistol, is more expensive, but you have to manually operate the shellplate but also have the option of a case feeder. As far as other goodies, definately get a chronograph. Just because the book says it's a starting or max load, it's still gonna be different in your gun. Start low and work up in load development. Chrono and look for pressure signs. Case gauge. Not neccessary, but beats the hell out of taking the barrel out of your gun to chamber check each rd. Calipers, gotta have'm to measure OAL and "crimp". Now on some forums, "crimp" is a dirty word. You basically on a semi auto are taking the bell out of the case mouth when seating the bullet. Too much "crimp" and you can have higher case pressures, blown out primers and tumbling bullets....ask me how I know . EX.....356 bullet dia. plus case thickness of .12 x2= .24 for a total outside dia. of .380 . My "crimp" is set at .378, just enough to hold the bullet from setback. Enough setback can be bad juju! Also try load as long as the mags will alow. This will assist in feeding and reduce case pressure. Remember, the shorter the OAL, the higher the case pressure. Powder and bullet weights....Fast powders and heavy bullets, be careful. Clays and Montana Gold 147's 9mm's just barely made USPSA minor power factor and the primers looked like volcanos. High pressure signs. Some of the top USPSA pros run Fast and Heavy but they will tell it works in their guns. Fast powders feel good in that the recoil impulse is short and fast compared to a slower powder which gives more of a slow push. It's really shooter subjective in how you want the gun to feel when shooting. A fast powder with light bullets (115 gr) is a snappy, sharper feel. Well, that's about all I can think of for now.

DaG

[jeffmem]

Calipers, gotta have'm to measure OAL and "crimp". Now on some forums, "crimp" is a dirty word. You basically on a semi auto are taking the bell out of the case mouth when seating the bullet. Too much "crimp" and you can have higher case pressures, blown out primers and tumbling bullets....ask me how I know . EX.....356 bullet dia. plus case thickness of .12 x2= .24 for a total outside dia. of .380 . My "crimp" is set at .378, just enough to hold the bullet from setback. Enough setback can be bad juju! Also try load as long as the mags will alow. This will assist in feeding and reduce case pressure. Remember, the shorter the OAL, the higher the case pressure.

DaG

I have started to load .45acp (on a hornady LNL for what its worth) and have noticed that my shells want to stick in the chamber. Hard to extract manually. Do you think that I am not getting enough crimp?

[Ridgerunner665]

Do you think that I am not getting enough crimp?

Have you measured the crimp?

It should be somewhere between .468" - .470"