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8mm 1950s Bulgarian Surp – Save For Reloading or Sell?


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Several years ago I picked up a 2,400 rds of 8mm Bulgy milsurp.  Unfortunately, as warned, it’s pretty much all click-bang, hang-fire due to poor primers.  The insides of the cases is pretty much clean and for the most part all fire.

I spoke to a buddy that reloads and as a cost analysis for 2,400 rounds:  New Siera Matchking FMJ bullets @ .52/ea will run $1,248 and if he figures 1lb of powder will fill 150rds @ $52/lb = $832.  So bullets and powder for 2,400rd will approximate $2,080.  Sounds spendy.  Does that sound right?

 

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No and No

Those FMJ Ball projectiles are worth pulling but they don't compare to anything Sierra sells. The powder is a crap shoot as well. You might get an extra power firing pin spring and have better luck firing it

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5 hours ago, Sunfish said:

No and No

Those FMJ Ball projectiles are worth pulling but they don't compare to anything Sierra sells. The powder is a crap shoot as well. You might get an extra power firing pin spring and have better luck firing it

It's still click-bang through an M48 that already has a 24lb Wolfe spring.

Probably a bit more background indicated ......

I don't reload now but have a brand new 550 (still in box) and a bunch that goes with it including a crap-ton of accessories, tools, primers, powder, NATO and some other bullets.

I know the primers are spent, which is why I bring this up.  I've been saving my calibers of reloadable brass, including 8mm, for years. 

I figure, maybe when I retire, I might start reloading as a new hobby and maybe get more into precision shooting, etc.  

Obviously, there are no specs on the powder, so best transferring over into other 8mm brass, I'd think.   With all that in mind, assuming that powder still burns, I guess I'm wondering if it's all worth keeping in the Ammo Fort as a couple $grand$ in reusable components?

Or,  for example, are Bulgy bullets known to be crap and saving/reusing that old powder a moronic idea?  Back in the day I used to read how some reloaders would break down the 1950s 8mm Yugo for bullets & powder and reload into other boxer brass.  I have a lot of that stuff, too, and happen to think it's some of the most accurate 8mm milsurp I have.  Typically, only one hang-fire in 40 or 50 rds wi HiPower Wolfe bolt spring.

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A fellow on a forum is saying it's absolutely bad powder and not primers. If pulling bullets and reseating with fresh powder is all that needs to happen, then perhaps, an exercise worth doing. That is, after I burn through my lifetime supply of other 8 mm, LOL

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The 8mm 178 SMK style bullets to me are preferred over the heavy Ball 196 sS. They shoot more to the point of aim. Pull a few and weigh them. Finding components that you can use is always good but usually more work than people want   

Edited by Sunfish
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There was no pulling the bullet with pliers and a vice. So unable to fire the primer . Cut the head off. Dry stick powder. The inside of the case and the bottom of the boat tail bullet is immaculate

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I broke down some '55 Yugo 8x57mm and reloaded the bullet and a slightly reduced and consistent powder charge into commercial cases with commercial primers because I had one of the '55 Yugo cases split from primer pocket to about half way up the case.  I read about it happening to others and it finally happened to me.  I got noncorrosive primers as well in my "reloads".

The only bad primers I have personal experience with were in Pakistani .303 Brit. (POF headstamp) and some other wartime .303 loaded in the UK.  I took the bullet and cordite from some of the hangfire ammo and loaded it into commercial cases with commercial primers and it fired normally.  When I fired the primers some of them made a fizzing sound instead of a pop.  It's easy enough to determine whether it's primers or powder causing problems. 

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