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"Stripping" the slide?


Guest NoBling

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Guest NoBling

As I mentioned in my other post, the P226 I just got has some holster wear. That's fine with me because I like the 2 tone better anyways. The question I have is: A guy I work with (a Marine) said there is a product at Wally World made specifically for stripping off the blueing. Other places I have read mention bead blasting but don't say anything about the oil? Will this work or do I need to stay away? I plan on looking for this tommorrow.

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There are bluing removers available. I don't know if Wal-Mart has them.

But bluing is not there to make the firearm look pretty. It is there for protection against rusting.

If you strip it off, it needs to be replaced by something to prevent rust and corrosion.

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Guest gcrookston

Not certain what product your friend is referring to. Soaking in Vinegar will remove bluing.

I don't believe the 226 is blued. All the examples I've seen over the years were either K-Kote or a type of parkerizing / phosphate finish. The K-Kote is similiar to a ceramic/enamel.

I suggest you hall it over to the folks at On Target and let their smith strip it for you either by bead blasting or wire wheel. They can also apply duracoat in a rainbow of colors.

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Leave it alone. SIG stainless isn't so stainless. I've had to keep all of my bi-tone SIGs coated with a thin coat of oil just to keep the slide from pitting. Granted the pitting was very small and hardly noticeable, but it does happen. Their steel just has too much iron content in it to be significantly rust resistant.

Their Nitron finish is a really good one. I'd leave it or send the slide back to SIG for re-finishing if you're worried about looks.

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Guest NoBling

I probably wasn't clear enough. He said I would have to oil the whole thing. And re-oil it on a regular basis if I did this. I know leaving bare metal by itself can rust if you just touch it from my experience with cars.

Thanks David, I'll look into that. About how much does it cost to get refinished?

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I probably wasn't clear enough. He said I would have to oil the whole thing. And re-oil it on a regular basis if I did this. I know leaving bare metal by itself can rust if you just touch it from my experience with cars.

Thanks David, I'll look into that. About how much does it cost to get refinished?

David, in my experience. the slide should be re-coated.

That means blasting and re-coating.

It cost me $40 on an DX blast and re-coat.

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Guest Verbal Kint
It looks like Robar charges over $250 to coat with NP3.

Not sure if that's the going price or not, but it's well worth the money to get the NP3 finish. Sexy look, self-lubricating properties, and very durable.

Tungsten had his XD coated with the NP3. Photos/link here and here.

They have a 15% Off special going through March 31st so it worked out to under $150 to have the slide, barrel and all metal parts NP3'd.

Are you doing it just because you like the NP3 finish better? That XD45C has the newer Melonite finish on it and shouldn't need to be refinished unless you've used it as a hammer since you bought it from me. :lol:

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Funny this should come up now.

Some SIG slides are stainless and some aren't. Blackening stainless steel produces a lousy result in that the finishes are not durable at all. They will begin to wear with even minimal holster time.

So a friend of mine was unhappy with the wearing on his new P220 and asked me. My suggestion, following the suggestion of my gunsmith friend, was to strip it out. So we bead blasted the slide and then polished the sides. I applied a coat of G23 to the slide and the small control parts. I like the result.

DSCN0516.jpg

DSCN0515.jpg

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