DaveTN

Sometimes… but not very often. Then it’s not in demand. But I’m guessing it’s not made by the hands of Bubba in his garage trying to buy the absolute cheapest crap on earth so he can say he saves money by reloading. Seriously… thanks for the link in the other thread, but I couldn’t find out much about that club. I think 1000 yard shooters are amazing. I’m sure they have the best ammo made both from manufacturers and custom loaders that is available. But that’s not exactly what I have in mind when I think of reloading. Are you one of those 50 guys?

I think this has been discussed before, but I can’t find it. Is the 1000 yard range at Arnold ever open to the public? Not for a match, but just for general shooting.

I looked into reloading and I found that I wouldn’t save a dime. I have always been skeptical when I see people saying that the ammo they reload is more accurate than factory. I’m sure they believe this, but I would like to see a test; especially in rifle ammo.

The difference in calibers and bullet weights is the application. If your application is a flat shooting round that punches holes in paper with ease; then a lighter high velocity round (hot 9mm’s) is a good choice. If you application is making a man unwilling or unable to fire his weapon at you, you want a large caliber (surface area) with a lot of mass (bullet weight) with enough velocity that it will expel all of it’s energy in the body, but not so much velocity that it will pass through the body. In 100 years no common handgun round as ever beat the .45ACP 230 grain at that. (The 158 Grain .357mag is close behind.) Then you have the guys that slept through the “surface area” and “mass” part of physics class and all the care about is velocity. They are the 9mm guys that will shoot through their bad guys, leaving them standing on their feet returning fire. Don’t get me wrong; because of the great “wound ballistics” and the high velocity of their ammo, their bad guys will die; they will just die later. And then you have your “shot placement” guys. These are the guys that while experiencing one of the biggest adrenalin rushes of their lives, are going to place a round through the head or the heart. So it really doesn’t matter what caliber or bullet weight they use. Hope this helps. I'll be leaving now.

I won’t use Wolf in my guns. I shoot several guns when I go and that stuff is just too much work to clean off; especially off the cylinder faces of revolvers. For range ammo I have never found (even ordering off the net) anything cheaper than WWB from Wal-Mart and I’ve never had any problems with it. I’ve looked at buying bulk from places like Georgia Arms and it’s still more than what I can go down to Wal-Mart and buy. But if you find a good deal; let us know.

Wood for carry (They don’t hang up on clothes as much), rubber for the range. But as far as looks go; wood hands down.

I have a question. I’m a Toolmaker, I have accesses to many types of prints and models of AR’s and their components (CATIA, AutoCAD, MasterCam), have accesses to full CNC machining including five axis, and have a very large CMM for inspection or reverse engineering. So my question is what is in that model that you can’t buy already made? One-off of anything would cost you a fortune in material and programming. Unless the shop is in the business of manufacturing firearms; I doubt you will have anyone that is capable of producing a quality firearm that would want to accept the liability.

I don’t know anything about Metro, other than they are having a hard time finding people that can qualify; but I am a former cop. One of the reasons I got out of it was because the money wasn’t as much as I could make as a machinist. That is no longer the case. But you should try to have a trade or skill other than being a cop. Don’t waste your time on a criminal justice degree. All departments are different but most are not impressed with a criminal justice degree; they will teach you what you need to know and they will teach you their way. Go right for the job you want. If you want Metro; go for it. Once you have a few years on a large PD you can go anywhere in the country you want. Sounds like you have the education part of it covered, (the written test is a joke on most PD’s) but don’t forget the physical part. Our physical agility test was the hardest part of the process; it got rid of over well over half. Find out what it is and be prepared for it. The oral interviews are tough. You will be asked off the wall crap just to see how you respond. If you have any kind of arrest find out if it is a disqualifier before you waste your time. While most job descriptions will say minor misdemeanors are not disqualifiers; they usually are. If you can find someone on the department where you want to go that will talk to you; that would be a gold mine. They can fill you in on what their department looks for in a candidate. Did I enjoy it? Sure, but it’s like anything else it gets old. Most cops don’t retire. You get tired of fighting both sides. You have seen the cop bashing threads on here… it gets old. That’s why you want something to fall back on. I have two honorable discharges and served my country as a cop. I am every bit as proud of my Police service as my Military service. It is an honor that few get to experience. Anyone that wears that uniform doesn’t have to earn my respect, they already have it; they would have to do something to earn my disrespect.

I don’t know anything about prices anymore, but I bet this still works…. If you have a price in mind make a firm offer and tell them you will drive the car home. If they let you leave your offer is too low.

I’m just curious about this, I’m too old to be a cop anymore… But I was talking to someone the other day that said a friend had been accepted to the Police Academy. I said “Oh really, what department is he going to work for?†They said that he hasn’t been hired by a department but has his criminal justice degree and got accepted. I was a cop in Illinois and there you had to be hired by a Police Department to go to the academy. So what gives? You can just pay (or get a scholarship) and go to the academy? If so what’s it cost? I went in the late 70’s and it was a bunch of money for the department then to send an Officer.

I would check with MTSU and specifically ask if it makes a difference if the weapon is secured (empty mag and cased) and in the trunk. My second choice would be the main hotel safe, if they don’t have one I would leave it in the room. Those room safes are not very secure, but it’s just a gun; your laptop is probably worth more.

No, I have several loaded weapons close by but I have absolutely no reason to carry in my house.

You are correct. I have been reading information written by those that seem to know what they are talking about, and talking to some people. The popular opinion seems to be that a gun safe is to secure weapons; it will not protect them in a fire. I can buy a safe that will protect them (or anything else) but it would cost as much or more than the guns I would be putting in it. Maybe I’ll just add a rider to my insurance policy and call it a day.

I have experience with Rossi’s (not that particular one) and most other revolvers. Your wife wants a gun that may be called upon to save her life, your life or someone else’s life. That is not a Rossi. They are not accurate, they are not dependable, and they won’t hold up. Smith & Wesson, Ruger and Colt are quality revolvers that will do the job you want and not let you down. As far as fit and feel Smith & Wesson has anything you could possibly want. L-frames, K-Frames, J-frames, Steel, Stainless, Titanium, Scanidum, and unknownium. (Well okay, they don’t have unknownium yet…. But they will ) It sounds like your wife is depending on you to make a decision that could save her life; don’t let her down.

Or so green

Thanks for the link. I had to go through and look at every safe they had.

It's in thier email Exclusives.See if this works for you... http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jsp?_DARGS=/cabelas/en/common/catalog/item-link.jsp_A&_DAV=email&id=0059917223843a&navCount=0&podId=0059917&parentId=cat603732&masterpathid=&navAction=push&catalogCode=EBC&rid=&parentType=index&indexId=cat603732&hasJS=true

If you could put a Camo set of grips on your revolver…. You are in luck. Cabela’s has them on sale for $139.88.

Do you sell LC 7.62 NATO?

Nothing if you trust the person that reloaded them with your life. I have had friends want to shoot my weapons and I am more than willing to let them do that. I tell them the only requirement I have is that they use quality factory ammo; no reloads, no Wolf and no South African crap. Sorry… but I’m not having a gun destroyed because someone else is trying to save a buck. And I don’t reload but I doubt I would trust myself to make my own personal defense rounds. Federal has been doing it way longer than anyone here and I haven’t heard of them letting anyone down.

My wife doesn’t sign her cards. She has written “Ask for photo ID” on all of them. Many cashiers look at the back of the card, but some don’t. The ones that look request an ID.

At the time of arrest you are always at the mercy of how the responding Officer interprets the law. I could be wrong but I think the “intent to go armed” is the key. That makes me think that it is one of those laws that require the Prosecutor to prove “state of mind” as one of the elements of the offense. Seems to me that I read somewhere that simple possession of a firearm without a permit is a misdemeanor, but with “intent to go armed” it is a felony. I would guess that means the circumstances under which you are arrested would be a factor. But that just a WAG.

I’ve been thinking about a safe and reading some of the threads here. Most seem to be concerned with security. I have little concerns about security; just fire. So… I’m wondering why I couldn’t use some kind of material to convert a closet (or a big metal box) into a fire safe. Most of these safes under a grand are only good for 20-30 minutes in a fire anyway. As long as my walls didn’t collapse there surely must be some kind of fireproof material that could keep the temp down for that short amount of time. For those of you that bought these 500-1000 lb safes, did you muscle them into your house yourself or did you hire it out? I ordered a large toolbox once and a semi showed up at my house with no way to unload it. Luckily I was able to pull my pickup behind the semi and slide it off. But I don’t have anyway to move a safe.

Anyone into to classic cars needs to check out the Friday night cruise in’s in Murfreesboro. My 78 Corvette Pace Car (I sold last year. ) “Classic†LEO transportation.

As I get closer to retirement I have thought about putting some machines in my garage for doing some part time work. (I’m a Toolmaker) Some of that work could include gunsmithing. The problem with that is shipping firearms back and forth. So I thought I would throw out these questions to see if anyone knew the answers. I hear that they have cracked down on people buying FFL’s for their own personal use and they now require you to be “actively selling†firearms. What about people that don’t want to sell, but want to do custom or repair work? Do they pull your FFL if you don’t sell enough? I have also heard that they now check with your city to see if the city has any special zoning requirements prior to issuing an FFL. Anyone know if that is true or what Murfreesboro’s requirements are? I know I could call them and get the answers, but I’m not to that point yet and just thought I would throw it out for discussion.