gregintenn

No. I expect he meant me. :hat:

Why?   I know what is in there if I did it. I have no idea what the gunsmith did to it. Not necessarily a 1911 safety, but I've seen some seriously botched jobs come from supposed gunsmiths.

                        http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/powderlist.aspx?page=/reloaders/powderlist.aspx&type=1&powderid=3&cartridge=23 I use Unique powder in my 9mm Luger loads. Berry's plated bullets seem to work about as well as jacketed bullets, but are significantly cheaper.

:shake: I just knew one of us would win!!! :drama:

If the problem was indeed that the primers weren't firmly seated, I expect the firing pin seated them on the first strike, and they should fire if you try them again. If they don't fire the second time, I'd look at the crimp.

I don't think you will go wrong with either choice. It boils down to personal preference really. Do you like the thought of a double action, or does a cowboy looking revolver suit your fancy more?   I would prefer the Vaquero, simply because I think it is a pretty gun, and never cared for the looks of a Redhawk that much.

I've installed a couple, being a southpaw myself. I'm not particularly mechanically inclined, but I found it to be a fairly simple, straightforward process. You will likely need to do a bit of filing and/or stoning. Take a little off at a time, and reassemble and check your progress often. You can always take a bit more off, but adding material back is a bit more involved process.   I feel it is a good exercise, and it will help you understand the operation of your pistol more thoroughly.   By the way, welcome to TGO! :up:

I'm pleased with what I have, and really don't have any use for any more. That being the case, I'm always looking for just one more.

Sounds good.   So, have you tried a polymer upper receiver?

When do you anticipate having your lower parts kits ready for sale?   Also, do you have plans for a matching polymer upper receiver?   Sorry for all the questions. I'm looking for parts. I have two sons, and we plan for each of them to build their own rifle. Tennessee manufactured parts would be a plus in my opinion.

The gun's only value is as a shooter. It has been renickled, chromed, or something, and well worn since then. If it locks up tight, however, it should be very accurate, and great fun to shoot.   The grips, on the other hand, should be worth what the gun is worth if not a bit more.

I don't comprehend what you are saying. :ugh:

I'm an AK.

I'll say something about the Lee perfect Powder Measure. Mine works as well as anyone's with flake and extruded powders. It doesn't do well with ball powders. I usually use a Lee dipper and trickle up to the correct weight when using ball powders.   It sometimes leaks a bit with flake powders, but it isn't a big deal. Just sweep up when you're done. Don't vacuum powder! The little balls of ball powder tend to get into the cone shaped rotor and bind it up. It is awesome with stick powders as long as you keep the reservoir over half full.                                 http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=11147342&utm_source=googleproduct&utm_campaign=11147342&utm_medium=cse&mr:referralID=5ebd5ca6-9bd8-11e3-beb7-001b2166c2c0 Here's the bedding media I was referring to.

The best I've found come from my reloading bench. Why not load your own?

I've often wondered how they get the smell out of a coyote pelt. When deer hunting, it isn't uncommon to smell a coyote before you see him. man, they are rough! :puke:

Wow!!!........you have an indoor pool? :cool:

Wow!!! :stunned: I've left a considerable fortune laying on the ground the last few years. I'm not aware of anyone in our area that still buys furs.       Oh yeah, broox: I think that was Roadrunner. :hiding: :rofl:

The cast iron press is definitely a better press, but the aluminum will make a LOT of quality ammunition.

I've had a Frankford Arsenal tumbler for many years, and it still works just as it did when new.   Corncob pet bedding media with a squirt of Nu Finish car polish is an inexpensive alternative to gun brass specific media. It is larger, however, and tends to get lodged in bottleneck rifle brass. It works well with pistol brass.   With the tumbler, you'll also want to get a sifter/bucket combo to separate the brass and media after cleaning. You might devise some other way to do it, but you'll need something.   Now that I think of it, I don't believe case lube has been mentioned. You'll need it for the rifle brass, but if you get carbide pistol dies, it won't be necessary for them.       http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-50th-Anniversary-Reloading/dp/B00162RM3E Have you considered a kit?

I would suggest you start with the hand primer. It is a small expense, but a big improvement over priming with a press.   I'll sometimes sit on the couch and watch a movie while priming a batch of cases with my hand primer.   Pull an umprimed case from one coffee can, prime it, and pitch it in the other coffee can.

Well, you DO ask some weird questions.

What would you do with it? People generally don't eat coyotes. They are considered a varmint or pest. You can shoot them year round, no limit. What do you do with a mouse when you get it out of a trap?   Competition hunting is a great way to try and control the population of these things. They are devastating to game animals such as quail, rabbits, turkeys, deer, etc., as well as livestock.

Let someone shoot you once with each caliber, then you can see which one hurts the worst.   I'm going to forgo the test and say they are all deadly.   I'm like the sheriff when the lady at the dinner remarked about his sidearm. She looked at it and nervously asked "Are you expecting trouble?"   He replied "No ma'am. If I were expecting trouble, I would have brought my rifle."

Instead of a lock ring with a set screw, or a screw that locks the lock ring into position, the Lee lock rings have a rubber o ring, or bushing, that holds the ring in adjustment. If you turn the die in and out of the press with the die body, and not the lock ring, it could be moved. With a bit of care, you can keep the lock ring in position on the Lee dies, but they are not as secure as other brands. To me it isn't a big deal, Other people think it is. I like the fact that I don't have to dig out an allen wrench anytime I want to adjust the die. All and all, Lee dies are my favorite brand, regardless of price.   You can adjust the bullet seating die to crimp cases as desired, thus negating the need for a crimp die. I've never had any problem with this. Other people prefer to crimp in a separate operation. To use the seating die for crimping, however, your cases will need to be a uniform length. Not so with the Lee factory crimp die. I trim all my cases. A lot of people don't.   I do not use the powder through feature on the expander die. A funnel works just as well. I like to charge one case at a time, and then immediately seat the bullet. This keeps you from knocking cases over and spilling powder. On a single stage press, you'll have one die at a time in the press. If you pour the powder into the case through the expander die, then you'll have a bunch of charged cases sitting on your bench until you replace the expander die with the bullet seating die. That would be when I would knock them over.   I like to tumble, size, trim and chamfer, clean the primer pocket, flare the case mouth (on pistol brass), and reprime a bunch of cases in batches. I do this in my spare time in the winter to help fight boredom. Then, they are ready to load whenever I want. Once your brass has been processed like this, you can load as many or as few as you want in very little time.   I store my processed brass, divided into caliber, in the big plastic Folger's coffee cans.   I'm not telling you all this is the best way to do it, I'm just giving an example of one way it can be done.