awdbandito

I have a jig for removing the barrel pin and pressing the rivets. I've never used it but I bought it in preperation for a future build. You're more than welcome to borrow it.

9mm is fun, but .45 is the most fun. Are you looking for something to just purchase off the shelf and shoot as is, or are you looking to build something ?

A 10/22 or a Nylon 66. The Nylon 66 was my first rifle and it still runs strong today.

I just ordered a tactical solutions barrell for mine. Search around on the internet and you'll find them.

When is the next 3-gun match at ORSA? I've never competed but I'd like to get out to the next one. It looks like a lot of fun.

It started off as an LCW Predator but I had it recored by Liberty Suppressors out of GA. It was an all aluminum can with jetted washers and spacers with a small aperture. It was a couple years old and I was having some problems with it so I had it recored to have stainless end caps and a monolithic baffle stack. Integrals are nice for sure. It will be worth the wait. Who made it?

I've been picking up parts to assemble a 10/22 host gun for a while now and finally went out and picked up a 10/22 to use as a base. Here is my new toy. The mag fits awfully tight and won't drop free, but other than that it is working great. If anybody needs a nice walnut stock or the original 18" barrel let me know.

Some folks shoot suppressed 5.56/.223 with no ear protection. If I'm the shooter and am shooting more than a round or two I still like to put plugs in. If you are a bystander, then I think it is hearing safe. The 'crack' occurs far enough down range to not be a real bother, it just takes away some of the cool factor. There are a lot of options for 5.56 cans and several factors to take into account. Weight/length - If this is just on a bench gun, then neither of those matter a whole lot. Usually the larger the can, the better the suppression. More internal volume also decreases the gasses expelled back into the shooters direction. Attachment method - Fast Attach is cool and convenient, but more costly. Once again, if this is just going to go on some guns used at the range, then thread mount will be less expensive. Full Auto capable - A full auto rated can will be more expensive because the materials used are more expensive. Take a look at these few links for good rather affordable options: http://www.advancedarmament.com/ranger_2.asp www.libertycans.net - Great custom work. http://www.yankeehillmachine.com/store/phantom556.html

Any ammunition that is supersonic will emmit a 'CRACK' when it breaks the sound barrier. A silencer does not eliminate this. For just getting rid of concussive pressures perceivable to the shooter you might look at some of the various breaks/compensators on the market. I'm not as up to speed on these products, but it seems like a lot of people like the SureFire models. This will definately be cheaper than a suppressor, but a suppressor will sure do a better job.

You can ring steel out to some good distances with subsonic 5.56, and you can definately penetrate phone books at 50 feet. I do agree that subsonic 5.56 is harder to find if you're not hand loading. I don't recommend a 5.56 can as your first purchase because other options are cheaper, more versatile, and quieter. Suppressed 5.56 definately has its place though.

Not that I would advocate doing this, but you can shoot .22 suppressed indoors at phone books all day long. Just start with a few taped together and after a while you figure out what your penetration depth is.

You should let EVERYBODY shoot it! I take my NFA stuff to ETSU and let their marksmanship program do fund raisers with it. Machineguns and suppressors for the masses, thats my stance.

1187 for me.

The suppressor is definatley worth doing. I shoot a lot at the house so suppression is mandatory I started off using the CAC-9 on the factory M-11 barrel but once I got the Lage upper I swapped to a 3-lug SWR Trident-9. The Trident worked well, but I got a lot of gassing because of the decreased volume. I sent the CAC back to Tom Bowers and he put a new mount on it so I can mount it on the Lage upper with 1/2-36 threads. You are more than welcome to try either out sometime. I shoot a good amount and had to send my Trident back to SWR to be serviced, but hopefuly it should be sent back to me soon. The CAC is a good suppressor for the M-11, but the Trident is a great suppressor all the way around. I swap it between the M-11, an SBR 9mm AR and a Glock 19, all with wonderful results.

I have two recoil springs that I swap out on mine. With the heavier recoil spring it would short stroke with weak ammo and run away. I've also found a few other small problems with feeding. If you have any recurring problems give me a shout and I'll help you work through them. If you do have problems/questions Richard is a nice guy and will help you out. It seems e-mail is the easiest way to catch him.

Just my input. Suppressed .45 pistols are still pretty loud when shot dry. Try to find somebody with one and hear it being shot just so you know what you're getting into. Plus side is that all off the shelf .45 should stay subsonic. For a first time suppressor I would recommend 9mm or .22. Specifically check out an SWR Trident-9. It is a very versatile can that has several mount types. Booster, 3-lug, etc... Down side to 9mm is that most off the shelf ammo is NOT subsonic. There are some manufacturers whose 145 or 147 gr stuff does stay subsonic.

Good pick. The M-11 with Lage upper was my first auto and it is a joy to shoot. Do you have a can for it yet?

Talk to these guys: http://www.tornado-technologies.com/services.html

3 Letters: S B R That is what you need to do. =)

Call David at Liberty Suppressors in Trenton GA. Just down the road from you. http://www.libertycans.net/ Tell him J.D. sent you his direction

Thats really nice, but it looks like a clipped and pinned semi SBR. I may be wrong. Either way it is a beautiful piece.

You would need to fill out an ATF form 5320.20 to transport across state lines.

I know people that have filled out the Form 1 and gotten a signature, actually waited so long that a new CLEO was in office. They sent the forms in once they could afford the build and it went through with no problems.

Just as a heads up, and it will probably never get questioned, but by law, you as the manufacturer are required to mark the lower; Whether you listed the info on the form 1 or not. I made several phone calls and wrote a letter(which still, after a year hasn't been responded to). The answer to "Do I have to mark my SBR lower?" was a uniform "YES" They directed me to the section that states it must be marked, if I dig it up I'll post it.

You mean with the baffle stack out of the tube? No, but I can take some pics next time I tear it down.