Jonnin

you may be able to get a 2-4 bore antique without the DD hoops, but a new manufactured one would need them. There are a number of them in collections around the world, lot in england.

The first thing to do would be pick a gun that does not need spare parts, is simple in design, made of plastic and stainless mostly so it does not rust up, etc. I wouldnt worry about lube. If the end of the world arrives and you cannot find any grease or oil, something nuts happened. Worst case scenario you can pull the plug out of an old car & use the motror oil (dirty, and not optimal, but its usable). With any luck, you can find a bit of usable oil or grease anywhere near a home. So focus on having a few of those rod&reel wipedown cloths (they last forever, a supply of 20 or so would last the lifetime of the gun if you are careful). A cleanng kit is nice, you at least want a bore brush and a rod. Solvent isnt needed, you can just wipe down the gun inside with a rag and get it clean. Spare parts? If your gun is cheap, such as a simple, inexpensive .22 LR, buy the same gun 3 or 4 times and strip off the stocks and barrel from 2 of them to carry as parts, stash the other 2 as intact backups. I would probably have a bolt (lever is same) action bigger caliber gun, and a revolver for a pistol -- the idea is to have a gun that is simple to maintain and operate. Semi autos are just too prone to TLC with the need for springs, ejectors, constant cleaning, mag springs and failures, and more. For long term survival, the semi autos probably need to be reserved for a combat scenario (rioting and looting and chaos phase of a breakdown) and not be expected to be used long term. If you have optics, you want a quality, no battery scope and have your sights on it or with it to replace if it gets damaged.

any web shopping site can malfunction. For whatever reason, such places usually have a crew of programmers that *constantly* fool with the database setup, web site code, etc. They break it sometimes, or something else goes wrong (browser update, etc). Any time something strange like this happens, just stop. If you keep clicking, you will be sorry, just put it down and try it again in an hour (day, week) or two. Its easy to keep clicking and charge yourself $1000 by mistake. Its hard to fix/undo that.

I would say the forms are better. You get 50000 of the same thing, you read it once, see that a bunch of people feel the same way, and make a decision or not and so forth. If each letter were different, it would be hard to muddle thru them to see who was for and who against the guy, etc. Its like a petition with a lot of sigs, in that way. If you only get a few of them, maybe its not important, etc.

Joking aside, they are supposed to be more consistent, so that each primer is the same so that each bullet you make is as close to the others as possible. Of course, that means you are using match grade bullets and a high quality powder measure and other things as well to ensure match grade ammo.... or, if its all you can find, I guess you use them like normal and pay a little more.

I swapped the default ones on my PX4 beretta, its noticably different with each one. Sort of like how a thicker rifle stock pad can move your arm just enough to fit better in the length of pull, its not huge but it helps fit the gun to you.

All I have is a picture, it could be made of anything, and I am no expert on military stuff. My bad. Still, same thing goes, if its to be used and its bad, fix it. If its not bad or not to be used, leave it be.

I would agree with you, and at one time I would have. But several states have had the constitutional carry for some years now and no rash of gun accidents or other chaos has been reported. They dont take a class or anything, just buy a gun and strap it on, and no problems. This guy is ahead of those fine people: he has had a class and may or may not have passed a shooting test, but if he did, I am ok with him and welcome him to the ranks. Not saying I want to be in a 180 degree arc in front of him if he starts shooting at a bad guy, but then again, I dont really want to be in that same arc with any of the rest of you guys either, and wont be offended if you said the same about ME

dumb question time, lol. When do you change the media? I am still on the first 1/2 of the free bag (corn something) that came with my setup (poured 1/2 the bag in on day 1) and it seems to still be just fine. Or does it just slowly "evaporate" and decrease in volume due to becoming dust or spillage or a speck here and there in the primers etc?

Looks like minor cosmetic issues in the pictures, and only to the handle. If that is rotted out wooden handle, and you plan to carry/use it for something, it would not be too hard to make a new handle for it. If its not too bad, or you do not plan to use it, just leave it be. There isnt much point in making a new handle if the damage is just cosmetc, unless you just want to for fun.

They require a holster now? I didnt have to have one back when. You never know. Maybe the buckmark was just for the class and he has a real holster and setup for a .40 cal or something. I dont have any holsters for half my pistols; nothing fits my desert eagle, target 22s, or some of the other oddballs. Seems odd to force folks to buy a holster for the target qualification when they might like to use a target 22 to save ammo costs.... but whatever, the class is mostly a joke anway from what little it actually covers and tests. I do know that if I did it today with my target .22, I would probalby make the gun fit into an inappropriate holster as well. No way I would buy one for those guns, if it was a choice between a holster I don't need and a box of ammo for a more expensive gun, I would just get the ammo at that point. I am glad they showed the guy how to aim and gave him a chance. Thats one more HCP out there, and he may not be any good right now, but if he tries (and he may, you never know) that is one more good guy who may someday save the day. Stranger things have happened.

I have one of those primer pocket cleaners, its a wire brush and handle with 2 sizes for large/small pockets. Probably overkill but it was only a few dollars and it gets the job done. I tumble with the old primers installed, knock them out, brush, and continue from there. Most spent primers have a kernel or so of media stuck in them, but its cleared out when deprimed.

it would stick to a magnet if that were the case... Its cheap, probably a low copper content (more brittle?) but I have yet to see a S&B case that was not usable. I run a magnet over everything anyway, just to be sure. There is a type of silvery case (not S& that does not do well, it expands but does not contract, so the primer pockets are loose, the bullet seating is loose, etc. Most of those seem to be stamped FC but some of the FC is regular brass. I think it may be nickel or an alloy of nickel or aluminum.

make them a lower offer on it? Lot of local shops have high prices because gun buyers always try to bargain, so its expected.

I just got into it but I have used a dozen brands of brass, just whatever I picked up, and it all shoots fine. Keep a very strong magnet to pull out the steel crap, discard anything that does not look like brass, and watch for anything primed off center (2 or 3 off center holes on the inside of the brass, instead of one normal hole in the center). The only reason to stick to one type is if making high quality loads for some special purpose, like pro quality target ammo, and you want each round to weigh exactly the same with exactly the same powder and so forth. Even then, its the bullet weight and powder charge that must be the same, making the brass the same just lets you check your loads more easily.

good luck with it. $15 is high for 9mm, and $25 is outrageous for anything except self defense or exotic ammo. The last 9mm I bought was $8 at academy sports (it was on sale, though!) and the most I have paid for it in a while is $12 or so. You can get a brick of 550 .22 ammo for under $20 if you shop around. Watch out for high priced ammo, its easy to find a rip off and hard to find a deal, the internet is your friend. Good sales are often listed on these forums too.

Oh and most pawn shops are used only as you said. Try them last, a *few* sometimes have new guns, either sold NIB (used but unfired, basically) or they deal in a few new ones on the side (really a gun shop that happens to pawn too).

I edited but try "chattanooga FFL" in google to find some master lists of dealers in our area. Its larger than I thought... but no one admits to being a hi-point dealer or a phoenix arms supplier.

chattanooga is a bit starved for a city of its size, but there are still a lot of places. Unfortunately you may have to call them all; while many carry highpoint or can order it, I havent seen a phoenix 22 in years in a store around here. I havent looked either, so that may just be me not noticing it. I suspect you may be in for a wait as you may have to find someone who will order stuff for you. None of the smaller gun shops here seem to have their actual inventory stuff listed online in any accessible way, its backwards and old school around here, and the phone + google to get the numbers really seems to be the best way. Hint, the quick way to find them is to search for chattanooga FFL holder list which brings up a master list.

How about a red dot sight?

It works if you clean your gun a LOT --- someone who shoots once a week and cleans afterward, for example, will never have the problems. I don't use it, heck I dont even use it for rusty parts (kroil seems to be better), but the guys that use it probably get away with it by keeping a fresh coat down.

the only thing I see that looks off, but its hard to tell with these pics, is the deep gouge in the barrel face on the upper left (if it IS a gouge, it could be a discolor?) and the somewhat excessive scratches on the barrel outside (which look bad but it could be the lighting or image taken). It could be lightly used, sold as new. It could be normal. Its hard to tell from what you gave us. If you think its abnormal, take it back, thats easy enough to do. Or, go to another store, look at the same gun, ask the dealer to take the slide off so you can look inside or if you can do it yourself. Compare them.

Cherry is a little soft and splittish if I remember it right, its been a while since I made anything with it but it may be the hardes to use. I like light wood on a light gun, dark on dark, so if its black/blue maybe the walnut with a dark stain, if its stainless or light try the cherry with a light, even clear, finish. Take a look at the woods online at a place that makes custom grips to see the color combos on other guns to decide, maybe?

I will be critical. Somehow they got my name and email, and I get 5 or so spams from them daily -- they are trying to compete with the NRA for aggravation. Also, the first one or two was interesting so I took their little quiz and it had several at best questionable assertations, if not totally incorrect statements. I forget what they were but it came across as an arrogant "we know everything, pay money". Their first few impressions have left me unwilling to give them a dime ever. The classes could be the best thing ever, I have no comment there, but the attitude makes me unwilling to consider them for anything.

Maybe thats part of the price difference. Mine was tagged $600 and has glowy sights (and rose/choco/whateveritis wood). Mine had a plastic holster too. I guess its a $100 holster, $50 wood grips and $50 glowpaint? Anyway, great gun. If 380 were cheaper I would probably have shot mine to death already, its that much fun. As it is, I work it out now and then and carry it a fair amount.