Jonnin

Ive got a kindle, it had a free blackjack game that I play now and then. They are quite capable of playing card games and other turn based games, but do not allow for animated/real-time/arcade games due to the slow screen refresh. Some games cost money, some are free.

Officer Oppey might have your butt in a sling if you stuck a bipod/forend grip on it and cant show the paperwork for it. Make sure its legal, theres a thread on it in here and a bunch of back and forth about the topic.

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They were passing one around at shooter's depo in chattanooga, I played with it cause it was there. Its about what I expected, you pull the trigger, and pull, and pull, and pull some more, did it shoot yet? Nope, keep going .... bang (actually click, we didnt have ammo in it)! The size is awesome: if someone makes this in a micro 1911 (like the p238) It will be in my pocket like yesterday. As it is, I am stuck with the 380 for my mousegun.

It sure has a lot to say for something that cannot think or reason. By its own words, the rest of it must therefore be illogical, since it cannot reason.... Other than that part, its pretty cool...

I have the subcompact px4 in 40 caliber. Its a great shooter, and very compact in length and height. Its exceptionally wide, and the safetys stick out like bunny ears, I cut them down (I dont use the safety anyway, its DA trigger pull is plenty of safety) to size. Apart from the width and the silly safetys, its an awesome gun. Heavy, it has very low recoil for its size and caliber, I can shoot it well one-handed, something I cannot do with many lightweight 9mm, much less a 40. Its quite accurate. Its a beast to load, the mag springs are a wee bit stout, it comes with a tool for that (and, its still new, this may break in). I can get it into jeans/dress pants pocket with a bit of work but its not going to fast draw from there. It had zero break in period, just lubed it and shot it. No failures of any kind to date. My opinion is pretty high. Its a great combo gun (good enough for target practice / fun shooting / plinking but its not a 50 yard target pistol) and good enough for self defense. Rare to find a gun this small that is fun to shoot on the range. The drawbacks are the extreme weight (its very heavy loaded) and the width (difficult to conceal, a little funny to hold). A plus, you can adjust the grip size to small, medium, or large in about 10 seconds. Note its one of very few subcompacts with a true DA setup (exposed hammer), which I really like (I prefer the option to pull the hammer back with my thumb). This was a huge selling point to me. The runner up for me was a CZ rami in .40 -- the XDs are internal hammer and I did not look at them. Mine doesnt squeak

Try a different store. They are popular, but here in chattanooga, Ive seen them (2 or more at a time, with possibly more "in the back room") in stock in a half dozen shops. I can't think they would be hard to find if you wanted one, but finding a deal on one, thats another story

my 92 is from before clinton, original 15 rounder, and it just does not care what you put into it. Feel confident that any ammo you get will do just fine, though common sense says to try 1 box of any pricy stuff before buying a bajillion rounds of it ...

Thanks for sharing this. Not only are guns often artwork, but even a basic one can be a tribute to engineering, or a simple looking gun can be a masterpiece of accuracy for competetive shooters. The designs of J Browning were so good that we celebrate this year his model 1911, still popular for competetive shooting, defense, and many of those are works of art or of historical significance. You dance around it, but its what the pro-gun folks have said (mostly to deaf ears) for decades: its not the gun, its the person behind it that can create probems. Same as a car, a sword, a baseball bat, or anything else. Put anything into the hands of a criminal, and dont be shocked if the item in question is used for a crime. In the right hands, firearms are things of great history, beauty, and craftmanship, used daily to save lives, protect freedom, or just for the joy found in the many related sports.

45 ACP uses regular "large pistol" primers. Magnums are for... magnums, 357, 44, etc. Magnum powder burns at a different rate than regular and there is more of it in a cartridge, so the mag primers are different. It shouldnt hurt anything, but its not really the correct thing to use. I don't crimp my 45 autos for target loads, its just that much more wear on the brass, IMHO. My target loads are also very weak, and no crimp works fine for them. I would swap to the LP primers anyway, just to do it "right", but I dont think it is "dangerous" in an underpowered target load. If you use them in a HOT load for defense or hunting or something, the extra power of the primer could create a problem -- I am not sure, but I would not do it. Please do not do this again: shoot something you are not sure of before asking. Ask first, shoot second, you only have 2 hands, 2 eyes, etc and blowing them up is a bad idea.

I have one, and its functioned fine on just cheap target ammo. I have not shot a LOT of defense ammo thru it but it functioned on the couple of magazines I tried. The gun is reliable enough to carry IMHO, but you want to be aware of limp-wrist problems (same as any plastic 9mm, really). I would recommend this gun, however the lightweight/small frame make for obnoxious (for a 9mm) recoil (its about double the felt recoil of a full sized heavy 9mm) and its low capacity make it little better than a revolver. The trigger is glockish, longish pull but low weight. It will kick less than what she is used to in that .40 caliber, but try one out before you buy it, is my advice.

it looks a lot like the kel tec p3at, with a few minor mods, including the laser sight.

ruger bisley 44 mag SA blackhawk revolver, still have it, still shoot it. Wanted a .44 because of the old eastwood movies.

It makes a point but its stupid as well -- who waits until they have no home, $1000 total to start looking for work? You start looking before you get that low, or you *will* be messed up. It assumes you have no degree/skills, but doenst offer you a school option. dumb.

I just got a used P-85 cheap, and its amazing. I had low expectations, was looking for a beater to try out 3-gun, but it turned out to be awesome. If the 95 is the same (they look the same), you will really enjoy this gun. Price does not matter, plenty of pricy guns are unreliable, all that matters is workmanship and the one I got has plenty of that.

I voted yes, because anything that flies over my head that I see and do not know what is counts.... birds, aircraft, frisbees, anything that I cannot get a good look at. I doubt that was the question, but its the answer that I have.

I don't care for the walther. Its reliable with cheap ammo (thats a huge bonus, as many .22 are not), but its not terribly accurate (seems to throw rounds out at longer ranges, though I only have access to the 1 specific gun) and is extremely hard to clean, gives the ruger a run for its money on disassembly, and it just feels cheap to me, cant quantify that but it feels wrong in my hand. Like most walther designs, its design is way too complex. I have not held the sig mosquito, but every sig I have ever tried (a variety in many calibers) has been a good gun. My personal favorite "cheap" .22s are browning buckmarks and ruger marks. But I want to try one of the 1911 .22 brownings when they have been out for a bit...

$10 for 5 min is excessive. If you want to do that, then do it, but that implies that the guy makes over $100 an hour in tips at your rate. Half that is over $50 an hour. $1 tip is still over $10 an hour in tips. So 1-2 bucks is more than enough for a 5 min effort of manual labor. I am not cheap, but I will be darned if I will contribute more per hour than I personally make on top of their wages by giving out huge tips. If it had taken him 1/2 an hour, and he did an outstanding job, $10 is in order. More than $5 (1-2 for doing it, and a bonus for doing it fast, doing it right, and being friendly) in your example, I cannot see going there, and only that much under exceptional service.

Your logic is fine: aimed should make a tighter group almost up to the point where the gun touches the target. If this is not the case, there could be a dozen reasons for it, including: 1) your gun is no good. It makes 10 inch groups with the sights, and you happen to do a little better with pointing. 2) You are really, really good at point shooting, OR you are really, really bad at aiming. Or both. 3) Your sights are way off, so pointing works better. 4) You do something when aiming that you do not do when pointing such as anticipating recoil, or pulling off with the trigger, or messing up your stance, or something. 5) The point-targets seem better, but are not. For example, you could mistake the concepts of accuracy vs precision. Accuracy is hitting what you aimed at. Precision is doing it the same way all the time, for example, if you are precise, and your sights are off 3 feet to the left, you have a 2 inch group 3 feet to the left, terrible accuracy but great shooting (here, the gun is at fault). 6) fancy sights (red dot, laser pointer, scope, etc). These can fail at various ranges as they often sit too high on the gun, making a high/low error as you get closer/farther from the target. Iron sights are less prone to this but they also do it if you get really, really close (again, if you touch the barrel to the target, it shoots below the point of aim by a good inch or so....) 7)Shooting too fast when "aiming". The first shot goes where you aim, your hand moves during recoil, and the next shots go all over the place... double tap practice and aiming are mutually exclusive, for example, and can lead to some pretty strange looking groups. and so forth. Its worth your time to figure this out, there has to be a reason for it. Unfortunately, without seeing you in action and being able to take the gun in hand, the cause is not easy for another reader to identify.

Well, if I were selling guns from my home on the internet via gunbroker, I would not want you to just walk into my home... seems like the most likely scenario is a basement business.

What are you shooting at? A man sized target at 20 feet you can point and shoot, heck you can close your eyes and hit it. A 2 inch target at 100 yards is a bit more difficult to hit with point and shoot. At some point, you need the sights, while under defensive situations, point & pray is good enough, even preferred. I close 1 eye when I shoot, and its good enough for me right now. I have tried keeping both eyes open and it does not work for me, for some reason. At so-called defensive ranges, I can hit the target without even looking at it, for real, if its one of those silly man targets. Aiming at that range is not challenging, I can put all the shots in one hole, and its not good practice, as you want to be able to point-shoot when that close. Practice aiming at 50 feet or more, practice point shooting when close up, you will want to hone both sets of skills.

THey use such things to make up for the money not taken in by income tax. I prefer it this way, as we pay for what we use rather than paying a huge chunk of our money for things we do NOT use. If I do not buy a gun, I don't pay this tax/fee. That is how all services should work, IMHO.

College is why I got a makarov. These days maks are more expensive than when I was in school but same idea applies: for $200 or so you can get a cz-82 and the ammo is still inexpensive if you shop around, hovers around $9-12 a box of 50 for the cheap stuff. Its slightly more power than a 380. Hard to beat this in a semi-auto platform. If you have closer to $500 to spend, you have a lot of options, any caliber up to 9mm, even some .40 and 45s (not many), in nearly any style, size, etc. A lot of good revolvers in there too, if you prefer. Whatever you pick, do a price check for ammo online: a cheap gun may shoot $20 a box ammo (or more!) and end up costing you more long term.

From the manual: Functioning When the P-3AT's trigger is pulled, the trigger axis is rotated forward together with the trigger bar which engages the hammer and then the hammer block. After about 85 degrees rotation, the trigger bar disengages, holding the hammer block forward of the hammer, which then rotates forward to strike the firing pin. Anything other than that is just not right. If the LCP is doing the same thing, I dont get it, but it is an exact copy of kel tec so they should behave the same way. You should not have to mess with the slide or hammer to operate the gun.

their service is very good. Its a DAO gun. Pulling the trigger should lift the hammer back then release it to fire. Anything else is a malfunction, the gun has no safety features apart from the long heavy trigger pull. There is no "cocking" of the hammer, apart from it being lifted by the trigger (it does not stay there if you release the trigger nor does racking the slide affect the hammer). Its possible it needs service, but you want to check it out yourself if you can. Review any related issues and fixes on the KTOG website first. It costs too much to ship an inexpensive gun unless it really needs it.