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.357 Sig reloading advice & suggestion


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I am seriously looking into finally reloading for .357 sig.

It's just too expensive to buy commercial now and I really love the round.

In reading about it on the web and I am hearing basically two methods.

2-die and 3-Die solutions. Also I am reading that some people are using a glue

or sealant as an added measure to bullet set back.

My current setup is an old RCBS Rock Chucker.

(In the past I have reloaded: 38/357, 45acp, .223, and .308)

I'm only looking at reloading practice ammo. FMJ's with the flat head.

(Or basically what ever I can find on sale. :P )

So basically I am just wondering how everyone else is loading theirs.

Anything special I should look out for, how long is the brass lasting or tricks you have picked up you

can pass along, etc. - Thanks!

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It is, by all practical reasons, the same as reloading a bottleneck rifle cartridge....Brass life and all other peculiarities apply.

Good thing is that 357 sig brass is cheap and easy to come by.

That being said I would be interested to see what type of glue they are using...one would think that neck tension would be enough, but how would one test a sealant that would prevent bullet setback without creating dangerous overpressures? I know the factory does, but do we really know what they are using?

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It is, by all practical reasons, the same as reloading a bottleneck rifle cartridge....Brass life and all other peculiarities apply.
That is pretty much what I was thinking.

I read on one site a guy recommended using a separate crimping die.

Good thing is that 357 sig brass is cheap and easy to come by.

I lucked up and got a 1k once fired nickle speer brass from a buddy. :P

(Gotta' love good friends!)

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Montana Gold is what I use. No setback issues here but I've only loaded about 500 so far. I'm having a slight sizing issue that I hope to get resolved soon...

I guess I wasn't looking in the right places as I found brass hard to come by and expensive. I have a good stash now though...

Mark

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Thanks guys... just looked up Montana Gold's Website. Prices look pretty good.

125 gr. - FMJ - 1000 = $114.00 (with shipping included to a business address)

125 gr. - HP -1000 = $123.00 (with shipping included to a business address)

Think I will go with Hollow points since they are not that much more expensive.

What powders are you guys using?

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My understanding is that 357 Sig bullets have a longer bearing surface than standard 9mm bullets. Montana Gold specifically lists a bullet for 357 Sig.

Good Luck!

You may already know this, but when I was researching it I found out that you can not use .40 S&W cases or 9mm bullets. You need to use .357 SIG specific bullets and .357 SIG cases.

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You may already know this, but when I was researching it I found out that you can not use .40 S&W cases or 9mm bullets. You need to use .357 SIG specific bullets and .357 SIG cases.

I haven't seen that yet. I could understand a difference in brass... but why the bullets?

Only a grain difference (124 vs. 125) and as long as you used a hollow point or flat nose how would it hurt?

Not trying to doubt you... just understand. What am I missing? The make up of the bullet it's self?

***Edit: Never mind... .355 vs .356 forgot about that. Duh!

Edited by creeky
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I haven't seen that yet. I could understand a difference in brass... but why the bullets?

Only a grain difference (124 vs. 125) and as long as you used a hollow point or flat nose how would it hurt?

Not trying to doubt you... just understand. What am I missing? The make up of the bullet it's self?

***Edit: Never mind... .355 vs .356 forgot about that. Duh!

That but the bigger issue is that most 9mm bullets have long taper bearing surface and will "slip" out of place. 357 Sig bullets have a flatter bearing surface to mate better with the small seating area of the .357 SIG brass. Some 9mm bullets will work, but I'm told it it better to just use .357 sig specific bullets.

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