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Cleaning Question


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Guest K7Sparky

I normally use a general automotive solvent.  Depends what I am trying to remove.  Look at what you are removing and choose your bath.

 

For me and gun parts automotive solvent, as peegeman says simple green, grease lightin', Sams club degreaser, Castrol degreaser.

 

Unless the modern ones have solved the problem, DO NOT turn it on EMPTY.  Spose low power ones might not blow the transducers.

 

Keep your fingers out of it, Use a scoop.  Maybe not a problem with low power ones.

 

If it is a heated unit that helps

 

The Ultrasonic transducers will heat the solution in time.

 

I clean everything from brass to the wife's wedding rings in mine.

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I used my Hornady ultrasonic cleaner on the bolt and magazine for my Savage 114 (.30-06) using "gun parts cleaner" also from Hornady, and it stripped the bluing off of my magazine. Granted the parts where very clean, but be mindful of how your parts are finished and what type of solution you are using.

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I have reverted back to good old elbow grease and a toothbrush for my cleaning purposes, not to say I have never attached a cleaning rod to a power drill to clean a really bad AK bore. . . I actually find I enjoy the bit of extra work these days. As for the cleaner, it is strictly for brass these days.

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Do you ever just field strip a pistol and drop the complete gun in?? Asking for my hard chrome pistols?

 

 

It probably wouldn't hurt hard chrome, but its the other parts in there that aren't so hard you have to worry about. 

 

It depends on the power of the ultrasonic agitator and what the gun is made of and any coatings.  The typical table-top cleaners you can find at harbor freight are fairly low power and won't do much harm unless you leave stuff in it for hours and/or add some sort of chemical.  More powerful industrial ultrasonic cleaners can erode softer metals (aluminum) away quite rapidly if you're not careful. 

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Given that it heats the water (and hence the parts) to about 150 F, the parts will flash dry pretty quickly.  A little compressed air to get the bulk water off and they'll be dry before they're cool.  A shot of contact (circuit board) cleaner drives the water out of tight spaces quite readily. 

 

If using a toaster oven, I wouldn't go any higher than 150 F on painted parts.  Bare metal can go much higher... 400 F, though they'll be dry before they ever get that hot.  If you've got fancy coatings (cerakote, duracoat, etc.) look up the properties of the coating to find the max temp. 

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