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About ken_mays

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  1. Good score! They are a hoot to shoot. The triggers on my MPXs are pretty bad, worse than most AR milspec triggers. Fortunately it looks like Timney finally released a more reasonably priced trigger than the Geissele. $200 is still rather pricey but it beats $350. As for optics, I think I have an Eotech 512 on the carbine and a Vortex Sparc with a riser on the pistol.
  2. Nice one! I had a nickeled one that I traded away a few years ago. I was loading hard cast lead at about 900 FPS, which were pretty pleasant to shoot.
  3. Sure, but they tend to be unreliable.
  4. If you still have the optic, I'm interested.
  5. The great thing about revolvers in auto calibers, in a word, is moon clips. Less bulk and trouble than speedloaders.
  6. There are 3 screws that hold the frames together: 2 where the top grip screw would be on a 1911, and one smaller one on the front part of the trigger guard.
  7. All of the above. Also, the Ruger American rimfire is a handy little .22 as well.
  8. Well, yes and no. They are 100% a 1911 except for magazine, magazine release, trigger, and a couple of other parts... but you could certainly take a 1911 and put most all the parts on a 2011 frame. The main difference between a one-piece doublestack frame like the Para Ordnance and the 2-piece 2011 is that the grip frame bolts onto the railed metal part of the frame and the trigger is sandwiched between them. The first 2011s used a molded polymer grip frame but STI was the only one with the mold. They had an agreement to sell their frames to Infinity for years, and when that expired, Infinity began cutting their grip frames out of metal. Now there are at least half a dozen companies doing the same.
  9. My first SS press was a Lee Challenger. Like many Lee products, it was slightly better than no press at all. Years later I ran across an estate sale of gear and bought it as a lot. Included was a RCII press and I’ve used it since, after selling the Lee. In fact I just loaded some 30-30 today with it.
  10. Personally I’m an Infinity fanboy. Sandy Strayer, the founder, was one of the co-inventors of the 2011 in 1994 along with Virgil and Fred Tripp, and Chip McCormick was mixed in as well. Infinity makes every gun to order and they have several innovations they have patented that they incorporate into their guns. They also make all their parts in-house from pins to barrels and spare no expense doing it. STI makes a good version too. STI has changed hands several times since Strayer and Tripp started it, but they are still turning out good stuff. What they make is basically a high priced production model and not something I would put at true semi custom level. Everything other than Infinity or STI is a clone, as far as I’m concerned... but there are some good ones being built.
  11. I'm not a big fan of any 22 that I own, but I'd say the nicest one I have is a Browning A-bolt that I swapped an Argentine High Power for about 20 years ago. It's built far nicer than I can see a reason for, with a beautiful high polish blue and that typical 80s glossy finish stock. Quite accurate too, as you might expect.
  12. Well, my G45 is more accurate than any other Glock I've owned. The addition of front slide serrations is very helpful on the slick finish they use now. The frontstrap is finally flat all the way to the bottom, with no finger grooves or irritating scallop with sharp edges. And of course the texture is a great improvement over the Gen 2 and Gen 3, which were slippery. I've always hated the G19 because there were either finger grooves or a scallop that made the grip uncomfortable, and I couldn't quite get all my fingers on the grip.
  13. The handguard should be retained by the front pivot pin that holds the receivers together. Take off the upper and the handguard should slide right off. As to flash hider removal, it looks like you can put the receiver into a vise where the barrel meets the trunnion. It's flat there and nothing really protrudes. I would pad it with leather and be gentle on the vise handle. Put the receiver in the vise upside down to prevent crushing the port cover tube. There will probably be a flat on the tube somewhere you can get a crescent wrench on. If not, grab more leather (old belts are handy) wrap around the tube near the receiver end, and use a pair of slip joint pliers to work the tube off. If it isn't budging, hit it with a propane torch for 30 seconds or so and try again.

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