ken_mays

In my experience, adjustable sights are more necessary on 9mm 1911s than .45s. Regulating point of impact for a 9mm is often not ideal out of the box on fixed sight 1911s and you will more often than not have it shooting low or high.

That's the old Range 8 facility on Lamar. I haven't been in there in 20 years. I figured it was no longer a public range, and I think they close up around dark (not a bad idea, in that part of town).

Oh, I absolutely agree. But on the 442s, they are such a dull matte blue that they might as well be painted. I did recently come into an older S&W Airweight that I think would be a sin to paint, though.

The PCC is far more reliable out of the box than most 9mm ARs, especially the parts / budget versions. I remember reaming about 7 or 8 short-chambered barrels for owners of PSA AR-9s after the owners saw crumpled loaded cartridges coming out of the chamber. Then there's the issue of finding a buffer system that you can live with that won't beat your trigger to death. One fellow I shoot with has been through about 3 broken Hiperfire triggers with his AR-9. The PCC can also handle very light 9mm loads, which is useful if you're doing steel matches with it. I got down to about 2.4 grains of Titegroup behind a 115 gr bullet before it wouldn't cycle reliably. It isn't often I get really enthused about a new rifle but Ruger did so many things right with this gun that I am a huge fan of them. Now the Mini-14 is still an expensive, inaccurate turd when you put it against a $400 AR.

You might want to consider a 5" 9mm 1911 with an aluminum frame. The lighter frame counteracts the added weight from the full length slide, while the long slide carries better (for me, at least) than the Commander size and the sight radius makes it easier to make accurate shots.

Wilson just announced a longer slide version of the EDC X9. https://www.wilsoncombat.com/edc-x9l/ That's what I was waiting for, since I didn't have much use for a carry-sized version. I'd prefer something I could compete with.

I have a 442 with a blued barrel and cylinder and I would rather have a cheesy coat of paint, honestly. It's a fair amount of work to keep rust off the blued parts on the 442 when I carry it.

There are several companies I trust to introduce a new design. Glock, HK, Beretta, for instance. Kimber is definitely not one of them. I adopt an ironclad "let's wait a few years and see" policy with them.

With the TWRA range and Point Blank squeezing them on both sides, it was just a matter of time. I know a group of folks who quit going to RUSA when they refused to maintain / upgrade their ventilation system. These folks were showing up at the doctor with their blood lead levels well above safe limits and they spent a lot of time shooting there. On the weekends, there was a big waiting list to use the range because they always seemed to have one side or the other "out of service". I would go into RUSA from time to time to browse their consignment sales, but those started petering off a couple years ago. I've bought some guns out of their consignment cases in the past but they were never competitive enough on new gun sales. I'm sure Point Blank put an end to that part of their business. Point Blank is a very respectable gun shop in addition to being a clean, modern indoor range with excellent ventilation. A downside is that they won't allow work from a holster. I will miss the RUSA cafe, though.

Generally I perform the Burwell DIY sear modification on my M&Ps. Usually, that's all that's necessary to get the trigger to a point I can live with. www.burwellguns.com/M&Ptriggerjob1.htm

ATF won't issue a license unless you are in compliance with local zoning codes and such. If you can't get a business license where you are, you probably can't get an FFL either (C&R 03 FFL excluded).

True, but knowing is half the battle. I'd rather know it's happening immediately rather than 8 hours later. And you can also buy a remote control water valve too, I believe.

You can buy water alarms that are wireless enabled and can send you an email or text if they detect water. I'm looking into that for my own water heater.

I received my gauge and my bolt checked out OK. S&W will send you a bolt gauge for free, but you can make one out of a piece of metal .035" thick or use a small feeler gauge. If the gauge sits flush to the bolt face, you're good. If it sits proud of the bolt face, it needs to go back.

Did you mean Double Action Only on the PX4?