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PAULSHOOT

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About PAULSHOOT

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    TGO Member

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    Male
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    Sevierville, TN
  • Occupation
    Retired

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    Yes
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  1. It appears to be FIXED --- shot 60 rounds today (5 different AMMOs) and no FTE. I had 2 FTL and one of those happened at the same time the MAG dropped down. Not sure what caused the MAG to drop, but it happened twice and i think with the same MAG (have them numbered 1 thru 5) Thanks especially to Garufa for setting me straight on what an Ejector is VS an Extractor.
  2. Took a look at it and I THINK it is fixed, will not know until I shoot it. I think a good way yo do the "Bent the Ejector)" is as I did. Maybe easier to not go to the trouble removing the Barrel, Frame, Slide that I did, but I liked seeing what I was working on and bending just enough to make good contact with the case VS reaching in with long nose pliers and guessing. 1) I took barrel, frame, and slideoff the grip (used the take down screw). 2) I turned the barrel, frame, and slide upside down. You can then see the Extractor, Ejector, and a spent case as you pull the slide back toward the ejector. NOTE: I used an Allen wrench to hold the case in the extractor as I slid the slide back. Used Allen size smaller than 1/8 inch and stick the small side of the Allen into the case and go in from the side to set the case in the Extractor. (Wish I could put pictures in VS trying to describe things). 3) I then noted as I pushed the slide back, I could go past the Ejector with the case (have a picture that shows that). The Ejector did make some contact with the case sometime (kind of like sometimes the gun ran a few rounds before a FTE). 4) I started prying the Ejector over toward the center of the gun with a screw driver against the frame. I guess you call the Bending It, but not like putting a sharp bend in it. You just push it over a bit and it springs back. Then checked where it was visually (can see it with barrel and frame removed from the grip and laid upside down on a bench). 5) Basically, keep doing Step 4 until it appears the Ejector was seated better and then a final check with the Case installed again. You can't push the slide past the Ejector when the Ejector is tight. (BTW, have to hold the case in place with the Allen wrench as you slide it back to make contact with the ejector). I HOPE The Gun WORKS now -- pretty sure it will as never had a case where the Extractor did not pull the case out of the Chamber (it just wouldn't eject out of the gun). THANKS to Everyone -- I will let you know final outcome. And, I hope this helps anyone having a SW Victory FTE problem.
  3. PAULSHOOT

    Law of Self Defense

    I din't know about any conflicts about Andrew and the FORUM. I was just posting my thoughts on the 'Carry' talk and what is lacking by many, maybe most, of us. That is the Laws of Se;f Defense. I am not connected to Andrew in anyway other than it is the source I stumbled onto regarding the serious issues of Carry and the Laws of Self Defense (that if not followed can leave you in a mess for life). I believe he puts out good information and pretty easy to understand. And, I do get tired of the advertising and promotion involved with his every presentation. DANG, the guy has to make a living. I expect he does well on that, but I would not pay the price for the material other than the book (it's reasonable as low as $7.95).
  4. I REALLY REALLY Appreciate your (Garufa) effort to send a Post and even the reply number that resulted in correcting my ignorance about the process of ejecting a round. As I now understand things -- the EXTRACTOR grabs the spent case and pulls it out of the chamber, then the EJECTOR tips the case out of the gun as the slide brings it back to the Ejector. I always wondered what that little pointed "THINGY" was on various guns. Now, I know it's the Ejector and can see how you could bend it. Also, thanks for the other replies, good folks on here. I will take a close look at the alignment of the Ejector (maybe one can slowly pull the slide back and see if the Ejector is going to contact the spent case). PS: I betcha that is the problem as I have never seen a spent case left in the Chamber. So, the Extractor is pulling them out, but they are not being Ejected out of the gun. PSS; Also, appreciate the comment about being careful, don't break it as it is welded and would have to send it in to S & W to get it fixed. (I saw a comment on a U-Tube about that "Thingy" being welded on and that guy may have called it the Ejector and talked about bending it -- I did not pick up on that at the time). I ain't a Gun Smith. LOL PSSS: Would think S & W would have heard or seen this FIX and suggested it to me when I called and talked to a TECHIE about the issue with this gun.
  5. Do some serious study on the Laws of Self Defense (Andrew Blanca's book is a start). You need at least a basic knowledge of the 5 ELEMENTS required for you to have a legal case of Self Defense if you ever get prosecuted. Likely, you need that knowledge before you ever think about carrying a Deadly Force weapon (as to when you can brandish or use it -- Laws of Self Defense 5 elements shed some light on that). Personally, I think it should be a law to know a lot more than the present methods provide that allow us to Carry a weapon of Deadly Force. It makes me nervous just thinking about the mentality of some folks that carry. Take Carry Open as an example - I think one of the dumbest things a person can do (not just me saying that, nearly every instructor, law officer will say that). There are obvious reasons not to carry open.
  6. PAULSHOOT

    Law of Self Defense

    I became interested in LAWS of SELF DEFENSE some months ago after I became interested in shooting pistols. My first pistol bought was a 22 RUGER SR22 for plinking targets, bought DEC 2015. Sort of migrated to other pistols and a 9MM. Sort of migrated to a Carry Permit mainly so I could transport guns to where ever (to ranges mostly) without worrying about taking it off the transport vehicle (MC or Car). Sort of migrated into Carry from having a Carry Permit. FINALLY, Sort of migrated into Laws of Self Defense. Laws of Self Defense should have come before any CARRY PERMIT or CARRY thoughts. I know that now that I have some knowledge of Laws of Self Defense gained from a study (not just a quick read) of Andrew's book "Laws of Self Defense". And, other info from Andrew, USCCA, CCWSafe, and 7 DVDs from Concealed Carry university (studied those also). By The Way -- I am not an expert on the laws, it's very complicated and made worse by all these states. MY OPINION NOW --- No one should be given a Carry Permit until some sort of Laws of Self Defense course is completed: That be training for defense techniques and use of weapon of deadly force and weapons not deadly force (mace, etc.) and a study of the Laws of Self Defense. WHY? Because you can get in a lot of legal trouble for brandishing or using a weapon of deadly force. It ain't as simple as the 'Redneck' Attitude and Comments you hear. Like "shoot first and ask questions later", 'shoot them and drag them back in the house" -- likely you have heard them all. How many Carry Folks even know the 5 critical elements of Self Defense? By the way, any one of which if not met can put you in prison for a very long time. I should name the 5, but let you look them up (maybe learn something). Not to mention the cost of a legal defense which is many 100s of thousand dollars. To start with is Bond Money and Retainer FEE for a Lawyer, total there maybe $100K or more.
  7. PAULSHOOT

    The ALIENS are coming!

    Very interesting -- like how the slide works (top of gun stay) and breakdown is SO EASY. Where does it come from? And price?
  8. Another long post (copy of a correspondence with S & W). I submitted a contact on the form on S & W web site and they responded within an hour (I was AMAZED). Also, in the reply, they immediately sent a shipping label for me to send the gun back FREE. I will if the new ejector assembly does not fix it. Purpose of my contact was to find out when this gun was manufactured. That turned out to 12/22/2016 (so I think that would be a later model and it would be a couple months short of 2 years old -- I don't know when it was originally sold). This correspondence gets LONG cause I gave them the history and some comments as well as asking the question about when it was Mfg'ed. ------------------- Their Reply to My MSG which is Below --------------- Dear Paul, We would like to thank you for your e-mail and contacting Smith & Wesson / Thompson Center. Your firearm was produced 12/22/2016. You should receive an email shortly from a “Do Not Reply” Address detailing how to return your firearm for service. Print out the label in the email and attach it to the outside of a sturdy box. Send only the firearm. Do not send in magazines or any other accessories that may have come with the firearm. Please Include a note inside the box detailing the problems you are having with your firearm and we will evaluate it once it has been processed in the repair area. If your return is deemed to be a non-warranty repair an estimate of charges will be generated and mailed to you. Your RMA reference number is _______. Average turnaround time for warranty repairs at this time is approximately 2-4 weeks for most repairs. If you have any other questions please feel free to contact us Thank you and have Great Day! Smith&Wesson values its customers and we are happy to have served you today. Please do not hesitate to contact us should you require further assistance. Regards, Steve For a limited time only, we are offering our official S&W M&P Black Performance Ear Muff for a new low price of $15.99 each plus shipping while supplies last. This is almost 20% off the regular price of $19.95. Please use the link below to view the ear muffs on our website. ---------------Original Message That I Sent Them--------------- From: Paul Subject: no subject Background - I just registered a SW22 Victory (used gun I bought at BUD'S in Sevierville) - S/N_______ Also called and talked to a Tech at S&W about FTE (Fail to Eject) when I took it to shoot day after I bought it (bought on 10-09-2018 and shot it on 10-10-2018. MY MISTAKE was not shooting before I bought it cause it fails so much (3 to 5 times on a 10 RD MAG that using various brands of AMMO. GROAN That was after cleaning and lubing per the book the night before I shot it. Other than that the gun shoots (no misfires) every time one gets in the chamber - shot about 100 rounds that day. The slide seems normal comapred to anew gun at BUD's and the fact it fires good indicates those mechanisims are OK. And I like the sight picture and it's accurate (as my shooting is). I took the extractor, plunger, spring out THU morning and cleaned those as well as the gun, and lubed again. I stretched the spring a bit (parts look OK to me and the hook seems to cover the rim). Took it to the range and BUD's Manager let me try a MAG FREE (BTW, he thought extractor and slide spring tension was good) NO HELP, it FTE after every one or two rounds at the most on the first MAG of CCI MINI MAGS (so, I quit shooting). That is the history, except to say very disappointed in my purchase and BUD'S for selling such, and me not shooting it before I bought it. Then finding out S & W does not have a warranty that follows the gun. My cheap Hi-Point 380 and TAURUS 9MM does. Buy American? Anyway, I ordered the Extractor Assy when talking to the TECH and will install it (HOPE FOR A FIX). The TECH said I could send in with a FREE Shipping Label and would be a FEE to FIX. So I will do that if the new Extractor does not fix. I would want an estimate on the fix FEE before ordering it fixed. ONE MORE THING -- curious to know if this is a very old model or a newer model, CAN YOU ANSWER THAT with S/N ______
  9. 1) I agree (At Least I HOPE) that is is an ejector problem. I did check the ejector, I had the whole assembly (ejector, plunger, spring) out of the gun. The hook looks good (to me - I am not a gunsmith) and as I said above there is no way to bend the ejector (maybe with a sophisticated machine designed for that) as it is only about 3/8 inch long, 3/16 wide and very hard metal. I did not mention above post that I did try to file the "U" (I call it a U) of the ejector which would allow it to close on the rim more (sort of like bending it if you could bend it). Not sure I really manged to file much off as it is hard metal, I did change the surface from black to shinny. Anyway, that filing attempt along with a slight stretch on the ejector spring did NOT HELP the problem. I Had 4 FTE on the next MAG of CCI MINI MAX 10 rounds when tested at BUD'S range with the manager. 2) Suggestion to check what an empty case does as slowly draw the slide back might reveal something (I will try it with a live round as don't have a spent round available at home and no place to fire the gun here). However, not sure what it would reveal as slide does not slowly go back when a round is fired (while different situation). I DID after I worked on the ejector and spring put two live rounds in a MAG and feed them by hand (did not fire the gun - just pointed it at the ground in case it fired) and they ejected nicely (pulling the slide back by hand). I also laid a live round in the bolt (slide) where a round would set against the firing pin area when I had the bolt, slide, out of the gun. It appears the ejector hook is covering the rim (as my naked eye with out magnification could see). As Is aid, the hook on the ejector, plunger, and spring look OK to me (not a gunsmith). THAT SAID -- It may be there is enough wear on the ejector, plunger, and spring that it is still the problem (I HOPE cause then a new ejector assembly might fix it). I have an ejector assembly ordered from S & W for $6 (reasonable). We shall see. The plunger is a plastic like material and the spring pushes it against the backside of the ejector to force it against over the rim of the case. It could be worn in such away as to not keep a good pressure on the case. Thanks for your time to reply. Good folks on this site.
  10. Cleaned gun with HOPPEs, and used gun oil (drop as shown in book TUE, then shot it WED about 100 rounds (the FTE's) THU AM, cleaned again and used 5W 20 Full Synthetic Motor Oil (light coat on rails, etc.), before shooting it today. ONE MAG and several FTE's. The slide is very smooth to move.
  11. Thanks for the replies -- try to answer both here. IT GETS LONG, sorry. Answer --Type FTE are all above: Stovepipes, Hang up that don't even make it out of the breach (not sure I am using the right term there), Wedged into the area to left of the ramp (had to take a screwdriver on my knife to pry those out). And while that is going on, sometimes it has partially loaded the next round. That is projectile of the next round has started into the chamber and bullet is at an angle (usually results in a damaged case or loosened projectile). In other words - It Is A Mess. Question --- On the bend extractor procedure (I am sorry, been calling extractor the ejector). There is no way in this world to bend the extractor in my opinion? I took the Extractor Assy (Extractor, Plunger, and Spring) out today to see if I could figure out what the "BEND FIX" is or how to do it. Not trying to start an argument, but in my opinion there is no way to bend the extractor unless with a lot of special machine equipment (it is small and a very hard metal). So, I don't know what folks are talking about. You can't push it IN because it rests against metal on the slide, bolt, next to where the end of the cartridge case sets. The hook on the extractor looks OK to this untrained eye, and it extends out over the rim of the cartridge. Seems to cover the rim OK. STATUS -- What I did do, was clean the extractor assembly (extractor, plunger, and spring) and the area where it is inserted. I also stretched the spring a bit to give it more tension. I also tried to file the "U" (call it the "U") of the extractor to maybe let it cover the rim of the cartridge case a bit better (doubt I filed anything off as it is hard metal and actually it looks like the hook covers the rim now). ALL THAT was NO HELP. I found out by taking it to BUD's and asking the manager to allow me to shoot a couple MAGS on the range FREE. That to check if I had helped the situation. He did and even gave me some rounds to shoot (I had left AMMO in the car). The first MAG had at least 4 FTE before I gave up and quit (CCI MINI MAGS). He said, when you get the new extractor assembly installed - come back and try it again. I had told him I ordered one from S&W today. The manager also looked at the gun and thought all was functioning OK (slide tension, extractor tension). I also compared it to a new SW22 Victory as far as slide friction and spring tension(just by feel of pulling it back). They both felt the same to me. You get a tightening at the same point about 1/2 inch from all the way back as I remember. I think normal spring tension. Just saying -- it';s not a friction on the slide that prevents the case from clearing the breach (that word again). One More THING -- I called S & W Techie (customer service). Explained it was a used gun I bought and registered on their web site, was surprised I could register if previous owner registered it. He said good to register whether new or used in case of recalls or if lost or stolen. I explained what was going on and started to discuss the "Bend Fix" (see if he knew about such). He interrupted and said send it in, to get it fixed. They provide FREE shipping label, but there would be a FEE for repair (apparently not under warranty for new owner). I asked about cost of repair if extractor and he said he did not know (another department). I found out an extractor is $3 and the assembly (includes extractor, plunger, and spring) is $6. I ordered the assembly ( be here in a week or so0. If that does not fix it, guess I will send it in and see what the FEE will be? Might be too much to make it worth while (who knows, new slide, bolt, or what). Shoot it as it is? GROAN. DANG would think S & W Warranty would transfer with gun and be lifetime (heck many cheaper guns are (Ones I own - TAURUS, HERITAGE, and I think the GSG). Buy American. If nothing else - I hope all this is at least INFO for someone and really HOPE someone has a fix (not likely unless a gunsmith that had the gun in hand). That said, THANKS for any INFO. PS: I would send pictures if not such a procedure to do so.
  12. I am frustrated with a new (new to me - it is used) SW22 Victory I bought TUE at BUD's in Sevierville. Good deal price wise at $249 with 5 Mags (all have the TANDEMKROSS extension), and a "T" Trigger, and a "T" Halo , don't know about the Hammer (if it is or isn't a "T"). Guess about $260 in extras by previous owner. I broke it down TUE and cleaned it up and lubricated it. It looked to be in good shape, not a lot of wear indications. I shot it WED or TRIED TO SHOOT it with all the Failures to Eject (say from 3 to 5 per MAG, did get some MAGS to run 7 and one actually did 10). Many, many, many FTE with all types of AMMO (CCI MINI MAG, CCI Blazer Brass, Aquilla High Velocity, Remington Golden). Found out about all the ejection problems and THE FIX (one fix is to bend the ejector). Seems to work for many folks WHAT I CAN'T find is How To Bend The Ejector. And, whether to bend it IN to center of gun or bend it OUT away from center. I think IN or OUT might be a choice depending on how the ejector fits in the gun. Some said it was not gripping the cartridge Rim (bend it IN) -- Some said it was rubbing as bent in too far (bend it OUT). STILL -- How to efect the Bend??? ALSO, see TANDEMKROSS has after market ejector and a .PDF procedure on how to change it. I would surely appreciate a more detailed discussion on the Bend Method (exactly how to bend the ejector). PS: Other than the eject problems (I kept clearing and shooting for nearly an hour). I like the trigger pull, the accuracy including the sight picture. BTW, Sight picture is always a bit of a problem for me (Bifocals). Probably be nice to have some special shooting prescription glasses to make sight picture better.
  13. I returned the PH22 to my son (he is registered owner) and he shot it some (70 rounds or so) at an indoor range on the FREE hour he got for buying it Bulls Eye Marksman in Cumming, GA. Just wanted to say -- I was in BUD's at Sevierville yesterday and saw a used one (all black like ours) with both barrels (3 and 5 inch) and an extra MAG for $149. Don't know if it included the locking case and cleaning supplies and MAG Lock. That would be about $173 out the door (tax and background check). Looked like it had not been used much. My first thought was - I should buy that and have one of my own. It's not a bad deal and maybe they would take less. However, the Kit we bought (case, lock, cleaning supplies, two barrels, and extra MAG) for $188 new was OK. It ended up like $200 with tax and apparently they did not charge him a background check. JUST SAYING in case anyone might be interested. I really don't need it as can shoot his some and have three 22s now. Still like having another even if it does not make sense.
  14. PAULSHOOT

    Painting Pistol Grips

    I just got back on the site since my original post. I had all ready painted the grips using Krylon. Thank everyone for their inputs. I also painted the grips on a Phoenix PH22 pistol that my son and I own together (it is registered as his, we are $$ partners on it). I showed him pictures of the Hi-Point and asked if he would go along with trying it on the PH22. Things worked out OK. I am a bit impatient about doing things and attempted to put grips back on the Hi-Point a bit early (should just wait until the next day, say 24 hours). I ended up creating a smudge in the paint on one grip (GROAN). Repaired it OK (OK for me). I do like the look. The only other negative comment I have is that the grips now show dirt (hand dirt) more. Reckon, can repaint. One other point --- I would consider not putting paint on the backside of the grip other than what little over spray ends up there when spraying the edge. I have had some flakes show up (don't think interfere with the springs, etc. in the handle). As far as the Hi-Point as a gun (sort off subject of painting), mine is a 380 and I get Keyholing. I called Hi-Point and got the impression that it is not a common problem but it happens. They said send it in, likely need a new barrel. I have not sent it in because not sure I want to spend the money (did check BUD'S dealer where I bought it about shipping - they said $25). Hi-Point gives your another MAG for your problems, but I have 3 and don't need another. . I am cheap (one reason I bought a $129 gun) and not sure it is worth $25 to me for a 'maybe fix'. I don't shoot it much cause AMMO cost and only shoot target with it. It's too heavy and big to carry. It would work for a bedside, or home gun, or in a vehicle. I would rather spend money on 22LR and 9MM, and rather have the 9MM for defense and carry. I just don't see the use for a 380, a personal opinion, and wish I would have not bought it. It was a whim to look for a 380 to carry and didn't see anything I wanted for that, saw the $129 Hi-Point and figured buy it to shoot some. Had AMMO for $8.99 a box of 50 at the time, that kind of helped me make a decision to buy (now that is $12.99 - think dealer had it marked wrong). I can usually buy 9MM at that $8.99 price for practice, and would rather shoot it.
  15. PAULSHOOT

    GSG (German Sport Gun) 1911 22LR Bought / Shot Today

    My guess is AMMO (Federal 50 round box, 1230FPS, lead nosed) used TUE at Bubbling Spring Range led to Failures. Shot about 50 rounds in each 22 (SR22 and GSG 1911). Some at 21 feet and some at 30 feet (both guns) and a good number of rounds from 25 yards using the GSG 1911. I had not messed with 25 yard shots before (at least not enough to be proficient) with this gun. Guess I will not be proficient at 25 yards based on the results. LOL Anyway, this is not about the shooting, but about the failures. Everything ran good until near the end and then had a couple fails in the SR22 and the GSG 1911. The last couple MAGS with the GSG 1911, saw more failures and in particular the last MAG with the GSG 1911 had like 6 of 10 failures. They were a couple fail to eject and a number fail to load. Off hand I don't know if it was 36 or 40 grain AMMO. I was on my way to the range and realized I had not put any 22LR in the bag, so stopped at a WALMART and picked up two Federal ($2.47 plus tax for 50 round boxes). Funny to me it worked fine for a couple MAGS before having trouble. See what happens next time I go out using what I have been using Blazzing Brass (CCI). I get the impression from U-Tube, that the gun works better with high velocity and better quality AMMO (like CCI). However, I like shooting a bit cheaper AMMO, The Blazer Brass CCI has performed satisfactorily (a friend and I shared a buy of 2500 rounds of that for $0.04 a round).

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