Jonnin

You have to release the 1911 style safety to use the sig 238. That is all, and it is just a touch of the thumb to do this, so it is not a big deal and you can easily train to have the safety off before the gun is even pointed at your target. The only guns that are "easier" to deploy than a 1911 are no-safety long trigger guns, which are harder to deploy because they have long, and often heavy, triggers. (I consider the glock trigger to be long as well, though 85% of a glock trigger pull does nothing but pull on a do-nothing spring load, the extra travel is there for "safety"). The LCR is a DAO, which means it the trigger lifts the hammer back some certain amount and then it falls to strike the firing pin. Unlike a glock, which is "striker fired" (whatever the heck that means), the trigger must lift that hammer each time far enough to strike with force. It is, therefore, not possible to short reset/rapid fire this type of gun, you must fully release the trigger to "nearly" the position that the trigger stays in when your hand is off of it. The glock, on the other hand, uses the semi auto slide and recoil action to internally do part of the work, so your short trigger just release a pre-cocked spring loaded thingy, it does not have to actually pull the spring, so a small travel distance is possible, which allows for their famous short reset triggers which, once the shooter has memorized it, allows rapid fire.

I think that with the stain job and mismatched parts combined with a decent, but not pristine, condition you are looking at $200-$300 range.

This logic would "justify" shooting anyone in the oncoming lane of traffic, anyone that gets within 10 feet of you at any time, and so on. There has to be more to it than a reaction to proximity or potential danger, as nearly everything within a certain distance can be labeled as an immediate threat. Clearly there is more to it than this, or most of us would be in jail by now.

Hmm. I buy cheap bullets, so I weigh them first and pick out say 60 for a box of 50 that are all the same weight and not dinged up. Then I weigh the cases, here again about 60 of em, deprimed and trimmed already (I will explain soon). Then I move to the press and prime, powder, and weigh again. Because all the cases are the same, tare off one case so weighing of each powder charge is fast. Because my equipment is not high dollar, I weigh things 3 times until I get the same answer 3 times. I often have to re-powder the case 3-4 times each. Then I seat the bullets and crimp carefully. When I am done I weigh and measure the OAL on all the rounds. I discard any that are off, they should all weigh about the same and have the same OAL. The "discards" go in the 3-gun or other plinking ammo boxes. Lastly I label the box so I know it is the good stuff. All that extra weighing is where my time goes. I do not spend much time looking at the finished products.

Sounds overly complicated to me. If mr fatboy is going to hit my boat so hard that i will die, then simple physics says that he is going to die from the impact as well. Therefore it reduces to 2 dead people or 1 dead people. Even if you shot yourself, the fat guy still dies from impact. The best possible scenario then is simply one survivor, instead of none. Therefore shooting the fat guy is the most logical decision. I leave ethics and emotional considerations out of the picture, however, as these feelings or motivations cannot change the 2 outcomes of the situation. The thin man is more interesting, as he may land in the water and live. That makes you question how you KNOW he means to harm you and other questions arise that the ethical problem does not state (by design, probably, to make it open for debate). If you KNOW he is attacking you, then you shoot. If you do not know, you do not shoot. Its like saying "a guy in gangsta clothes runs up toward you at the gas station at 3 am" do you shoot? There is not enough info, he could just be running by. Without knowing the intent, you cannot justify the shot. Shooting him because you "know" he is out to get you --- we have a name for that, it is called "paranoid". The problem does not give you a draw and cover option, where you are ready to shoot if needed.

Well, an hour a box is about 4x longer than it takes me to make "3-gun" ammo. It is all relative, but for many shooters, if it goes bang and hits a pie plate at 10 feet, it is good enough, and there is NO reason on earth to spend an hour a box making ammo that is being used for short range defense practice or similar "sloppy" shooting (well, if you really enjoy it, that is fine, but it is not efficient). This past weekend we easily shot out 100 rounds of 223 and 120 rounds of 9mm in 3 gun, all mass produced (10-15 min per 50). The rapid made 223 was sufficient to make a headshot on those cardboard dummies at 100 yards. The longest pistol shots were about 25 yards and hit center of mass on the same targets. But if I wanted to put all 30 rounds of 223 in a dime from a bench rest at 100 yards, the 10 min ammo can not do that, not at all, and the cheapest walmart ammo is more accurate than my rapid 9mm effort, which makes a 4 inch group at 20 yards instead of one jagged hole (which the walmart stuff can do).

Most people seem to recommend the hand primer over the press, but most (all?) single stage presses will prime the case on the down-stroke from the sizing die. I do not find this to be all that slow, but you need a way to get the primers into the cup on the press efficiently or it would be very slow. I have a dispenser that works great for this job and prefer the press to the hand tool as the hand primer makes my hand cramp after only a short while.

Ah, they are not shooting hornady match ammo! Usually this comment is comparing walmart junk ammo to handloads. But the key is, a handloader can make match grade ammo for far, far less than the stuff costs from a factory, and its slightly better because every gun is different. A load tested and tailored to a specific gun will outperform the factory match grade ammo at 1/4 or so of the cost! However, you hit the nail on the head about quality control. To produce match grade rounds without expensive equipment, I can spend over an hour on a box of 50 and 75% of that time is spent using the scale to check the weight of each powder charge and bullet (and I also weigh the cases, which has no effect on the round but helps quality control as I can weigh all the rounds again at the end and find any that are off). It is also important to have the cases the same length and the bullets seated to the same length, a consistent crimp, and so on. Basically, just slow it down and be very precise and careful with every step to ensure that each round is exactly the same, it is not hard, but it is fairly tedious.

I would avoid the kits, they seem to have a lot of things you do not need and miss some that you will, in general. The smaller kits that just have the press and press accessories are ok, but you want to avoid the kits that claim to have everything you "need" with junky scales and calipers and funnels and such included -- these items are often substandard, and you may soon find yourself buying replacements. I really love my lee turret press. It can be used as a single stage or it can go from used brass to live round without leaving the press depending on what needs doing. I have trouble recommending a single stage after having used this, but it does cost more.

I do not care about the look so much. I like a collapsible stock and can forgive that, as it is ugly (on every gun that has one) but handy. However, the rails are all wrong, it needs exactly 1 rail up top for a scope and nothing else, as a lever gun does not benefit from a bipod and there is nothing else to hang on such a gun that makes any sense at all. Even a forend grip is out of place, since you need a hand on the lever. Lose the forward rail for a smooth black plastic body. Lose the ugly iron sights for a scope mount or at least de-ugly them. Lose the stupid compensator, which is totally out of place. Keep the adjustable stock and black look, fine. And even if they did all that stuff, it would still be unpopular, though I could not tell you why (a plastic classic? More durable in the woods, and less expensive? Seems like a winner to me for a hunting rifle).

Not for your first / only rifle, unless you plan to buy more in the near future. Its a fine caliber and a great shooter, but for your first I would strongly recommend one of the common calibers instead, 30-30, 243, 308, 30-06 come to mind. The farther you get from these, the more difficult it can be to find ammo. The 25-06 is a 30-06 modified, so why not use the original, common caliber? The differences are slight (it has a little more range and a little better trajectory, but are you really shooting at stuff out past 1k yards?) and mostly lost on game in TN or even most of the south.

You would if it were part of the gear needed for your job. Otherwise, no way I would either. Same vein, my PC cost like 3k but that is tied to my job.

Man, that sucks. It depends, really, on dozens of questions that no one can answer: 1) did they leave anything worth taking to come back for? 2) do they know you? 3) are they "dumb crooks"? (For example, meth addicted, or teenagers, or something?) or pros? 4) have they been arrested for some other reason, somewhere else, already? 5) why you or your home? What made it a nice target, expensive vehicles? Big home? Isolated? and more. Without knowing who it was and what they wanted, its impossible to say... could be anything from a pro burglar (would not come back, owner is alert now and may add alarms, dogs, guns and more) to a meth head (may be back, gotta have a fix and it was easy the first time, duh...).

I sort of wanted one of these, and due to kel tec treating me extra well I was determined to buy one of their guns, but the trigger on it just was too much for a target pistol, so I passed on the 22 mag. It feels good in my hand, and seems like a nice piece apart from the heavy and longish pull --- I wanted it as a target gun however. I ended up going for the PLR in 223 and that has been a great deal of fun. The genitron handgun comparison has the pmr30 as one of the few 100% ideal defense weapons, as it has a reasonable physical size, a very very high capacity, low recoil, decent energy levels, and so on. I do not know how I feel about that but it struck me as interesting; most of your glocks and xds and whatnot rank in the 92 or so % by their metrics. So I would say this would be an "interesting" choice for CCW for some people, esp weaker shooters such some of our elderly, if it is reliable. I do not know how reliable the current production runs are, but supposedly the pistol is somewhat picky about what ammo it will accept. Anyway, I would pass if you were thinking (as I was) to use the flatter, faster 22 mag for longer range target shooting, due to the trigger. For regular ranges, plinking, or maybe even ccw, it could be a great pick.

I would try to work something out, but I think you have the right to shoot there. The road is a non issue, so long as you are not shooting down it or across it or something idiotic that would endanger traffic (I assume you are not). The issue is where the horses are (how far away) and what you can do to work with them so everyone is happy. They may be unreasonable, or anti-gun, or who knows what, but you are stuck living next to them for at least the near future so it cannot hurt to try talking.

Its not as easy as it sounds. To make the big money on a game, you have to be one of the top players which means convincing the company to give you an early release of the game (can be easy or hard, depends on who it is). You have to have thousands of $$ in gear, from high def TVs to fancy, programmable controllers, and more; it takes a pretty good rig to record the action in a top notch format as well and man hours to produce the videos. You have to spend untold hours at the game to learn its every secret, exploit, area, and strategy. It can easily be a full time job, and a fun one, but it can also leave you with painfully sore hands, a splitting headache, and after a while an actual hatred of the game you are playing. Sure, its playing a game all day, but so is football, so is being the #1 poker player, and so on. But at the levels where the money is found, only a very few people are good enough to be in that bracket and play at that level, and they work hard to get there and stay there. Its more than a game at that point.

the 22a is very good, almost as good as the ruger. I like it a lot better than the neo. As said, I would rather just have 2 rugers though. The 22a grips are lacking (this may be a bonus if your wife has very small hands, though) and it has a pastic washer inside that needs replaced about every 1000 or so rounds (25 cents each or something). It is very accurate and reliable, however, those are the only 2 real trouble spots.

my wife had the 709 for a few years. It never gave any trouble and is smaller than the others in most dimensions, and it is extra thin. It is a great choice for a smaller gun, however you do tend to sacrifice some things when you are only looking at size. For the 709, it was a little snappier on the recoil than you might like and our example was not very accurate. It was fine for carry, but not much on the range, in other words.

Liberals, being mostly against christianity anyway, often cannot understand what charity even is or how it should be done. Charity is where someone gives to those in need because the giver wants to do it (is not forced), and expects no punishment for not giving nor any reward for giving. Most Liberals however think that charity comes from the government and is funded by taxes. Those who have are forced to give, and if they do not they risk jail. They cannot comprehend a model where people who want to give away their money may, and those who wish to keep what they earned may. They cannot comprehend that paying taxes is not done as a kindness to others, it is done to avoid jail. It is not done out of a sense of responsibility to help fund our wonderful country --- because the money is wasted, by and large. Its hard for people to get a warm fuzzy feeling or feel like they are helping anyone or anything when they see the government wasting at least 75 cents of every dollar they take in taxes. No letter will help him to understand this. His mind, his personality, the things that make Mr. Buffet who he is prevent him from understanding these things, his mind is not able to digest and cope with these sorts of ideas.

I am not a fan of the 223 for hunting, and would recommend looking at a different caliber (which you can find in the AR platform). You can find ARs in a variety of more game-appropriate calibers such as the 243, 308, and so on. You could download those to be more child friendly if you reload, though most kids can handle a 243 bolt action and a semi auto would tame it even more. That said a plain-jane gun can be had for $750 or so easily, such as a S&W M&P. That is what we use, and it has done very well, accurate and reliable. You may even be able to find something cheaper --- the price on an AR is mostly increased by paramilitary accessories such as excessive rails, bipods, extreme lightweight components, and match grade internals. You do not need that stuff, and certainly not top of the line versions of it (for example a $20 bipod may help you if you hunt from a prone blind or something?) but you do not need a $150 bipod made of gold plated titanium with a storage compartment that folds up into a forend grip and can doubles as a coffee maker. Or a cheap forend grip that does nothing except provide a handhold may help hold the gun steady. I would personally avoid a carry handle and consider trying to mount a scope or co-witness scope rings and iron sights.

Ah thats another story, when talking about match grade performance and so on. Someone who is serious about competition shooting may well consider a barrel worn out when most other folks would consider it to be fine. What little competitive shooting I do, I am still not good enough to ever blame the gun instead of the shooter for the results, and so I am more likely to sell the gun and buy a new one than do a barrel change, and that would just be because I wanted a new gun, not because the old one was a problem.

I have found some "factory reloads" or whatever you call them (small companies that have their FFL and such allowing the sale of their ammo) at gun shows, and the cheapest .45 was about $10 a box. I could not point to your local reloaders or anything but if you look hard enough, you will find it. Most of these places do NOT sell it on the web because they cannot meet the demand -- several times I have bough out a vendor in a caliber which means I bought 5 boxes...

Caster has the right of it, when I said corrosive ammo was an issue the real issue is failure to clean up afterwards, not the act of shooting such. Also a good point on the really hot stuff... some calibers are more abusive than others. You can read about WWII machine gun teams that had to replace the barrels very frequently during very heavy fighting, the constant stream of ammo and the excessive heat buildup ruined them quick.

Some of the 1911 9s are double stacked. Actually, probably about 1/2 of them are, since there is not a lot of demand for a bulky 8 shooter in 9mm and they already broke all the purist 1911 rules by making it in another caliber. http://centerfiresystems.com/AC-RI1911-9MM-HCTT.aspx for example.

I would agree to that, you probably want a 1 oz payload at 1300 fps as a rough reference point for what will cycle the majority of these guns. I had mine worked on by a gunsmith to expand the gas hole in the barrel, allowing the weaker ammo to work, so I can get away with under 1200 FPS in mine at the expense of harsh recoil when I use stronger loads.