Jonnin

It depends on the specific guns and ammo used too much to say. My 1911 can put all the shots in under a 1 inch group at 25 yards (Not me, the gun in a rest can do that. I have a ways to go!) with some ammo that it likes. Some 1911s could be throwing out a 2-3 inch group at that range if the barrel is worn or the bushing is loose or whatever. Glocks are more consistent (its a single brand out of the box and all made the same, etc) and I would expect at 25 yards you could make a 2-3 inch group if you are an excellent marksman. My advice is to put the gun in a rest and shoot 10 shots at the different ranges. That is what the *gun* is capable of with the ammo you are using. Once you see that, an excellent group is around 1-2 inches over the gun's group and a good group is 3-4 inches off the gun's group. Remember that the glock is probably going to be more difficult to tighten the groups on, the trigger, grip, sight radius, fixed sights and so forth are not set up for a long range target gun and those issues make a human shooter (as opposed to the rest mounted gun) open up the groups a bit or be off center a bit. I am assuming you shoot slowly for accuracy here. If you are blasting away for defense practice, group size is not really discussed, it becomes "hits" and "misses".

Get it renewed. It will be a constant source of aggravation to you otherwise: any place that needs to see your ID and knows the address is not a match will hassle you about it. I don't know the answer to your original question but you really should just get it updated to prevent any future problems from a variety of sources.

Some of the high end defensive ammo has "low flash" powder for night shooting. I do not know how effective this is in practice though. I have shot a little bit of it during daytime range conditions but not in any caliber that had enough daytime flash to really say anything about it.

Should make a nice gun. However, you handload. And, you seem to have plenty of experience. And, you said you wanted to consolidate calibers. Tell me you cannot, if building the gun from parts, make it a 9mm with stouter parts and just load your 9mm as hot as the sig caliber? I do not know if that is possible, but I think it would be if done carefully --- the so-called +p+ 9mm is very close to the sig round already and is safe to shoot in well made guns. The only thing I am going on here though was your earlier post about reducing down to a few common calibers. If you want this project, it sounds fun and the result would be very nice IMO.

My wife loved her glock until she tried drills with multiple targets. Moving the gun from side to side had the same effect as limp wristing, and does not have the muscle to prevent it in that scenario. We tried everything but it just wouldnt stop jamming under those conditions. If the shooter is not built like a construction worker, glocks may not be the best choice; or any of the light weight plastic guns (its not glock's fault, its just physics vs the shooter's capability). For folks who are not very strong, a heavy gun may be more awkward to carry but will not jam as easily. She cannot jam my 9mms at all, even when trying to do so (I have several but think old model beretta 92 and similar large heavy guns). The plastic pistol problem is even worse when you do a one handed shooting drill, for those with weak arms/wrists. Not only does it cause jams, but the recoil also makes it nearly impossible to keep the gun on target for the same weak shooters. BTW the glock IS the worst about this because it has stouter springs as the gun is designed to fire hot ammo all day long -- the springs can be reduced for target loads/ practice but shooting practice ammo on the range makes the problem worse (+p rated springs on weak ammo so *any* loss of recoil energy can jam it). As with anything, try before you buy can prevent the purchase of a gun that the shooter cannot handle. I am not ashamed to say I cannot handle a glock either -- I don't jam them up but I cannot keep them on target under the recoil, by the third shot I am lucky to still be on paper if trying to shoot rapid defensive style.

The drawbacks can mostly be removed. There are magazine fed shotguns (expensive) if you want rapid reloads, or a gunsmith can install a rapid reloading system where you shove a tube full of shells in and out, reloading the gun in about the time it would take to do a magazine swap on a rifle (not all that expensive). Capacity can be increased to at least 10, easy and inexpensive to do, with a screw on tube extension. The ammo remains heavy and that one cannot be changed; its hard for a 1 ounce (thats about 450 grains, at a guess?) slug to weigh less than a 60 grain 223 or even a 200 grain 308... A typical 3-5 shot bird gun isnt the best weapon in the world but they can be made into a very powerful defensive package, and it can be done for far, far less than the money dumped into semi-auto rifles. All these mods + the gun are still only in the neighborhood of $500, unless you bought the expensive mag fed shotgun. Not saying the shotgun is better, just that the drawbacks you mention can be dealt with by someone who wants their shotgun to be a defensive weapon instead of a bird gun. I would encourage you to watch a video of someone using a fully pimped out shotgun to see some of this stuff in action, it is an eye opener.

They are missing a market, needs to be a semi auto. With the 2 tubes and selector, it would be a beast for 3-gun (there are about 6 types of 3 gun, I mean the one with the semiautomatic rifles). As a pump, its of no use to me.

Mausers are simply some of the best bolt action firearms ever made, period. There is a lot to know about them to determine the price but you can get a good shooter for a lowish price, 200-500 depending on what has been done to it. Mismatched guns (built from parts to be sold to the public) are usually cheap yet still shoot well, while a matched gun or one that has a military history and documents are worth a ton. Some of them are sniper models and are worth more but more accurate. Bubba guns can be had for $100 or so at times, these have been butchered to make them into hunting rifles and vary from chop jobs to pro -- ruined for collector value but also usually good shooters. Some of the chop job guns have had the caliber changed so you have to check that to be sure what the gun actually shoots. If you were closer I would let you try my 1909, its the fore-runner of the k98 and truly a work of art.

wait for a gun show, usually 10 -20 that you can examine in person and in detail. While you wait for the show, brush up on what to look for and so on.

Last story from the press that supposedly wants her guilty was the kid drowned by accident. If that story was ever refuted or changed, I didnt hear about it, but I have not been following it and don't watch TV. I certainly never saw a headline that physical evidence was displayed to give a strong sense of foul play or anything, just a lot of hand waving and not a lot of evidence for the public to know about. Oh -- and not only did 12 agree to not guilty, they did it FAST for this type of case with this much time spent etc. I expected a daily "no verdict yet" report for at least another week.

what range were they @ Dolomite? 9/10 on a man sized target should mean a decent range, 200 yards or so?

In that case, yes get that .40 barrel, for the reasons I gave, 40 is the less expensive and more flexible round and the differences are too small to justify the price increase. If you shoot much, you will quickly come out ahead of the investment. For the record reloading .40 is around $5 a box for me, or $100 per 1000, and though I did not think it was a popular round for range time, I have picked up about 1k rounds of it over the past year without even trying, so its nearly as easy to get as 9mm if you have access to a range where you can loot brass.

I sort of want one for the feel (weight and frame and so on) so that both my 22 and 45 would feel/shoot the same. My mark II 22-45 isnt very much like a 45, to be honest. I was looking forward to the browning version of the 1911-22 (rumor was to replace the buckmark with this?) but have not really had the $$ to buy one so I have not researched it yet. I think eventually I will get one but not this year.

I think the M&P S&W AR can be had in this caliber (not 100% sure). I agree that the 223 is too small and wouldnt use it as my first choice for anything other than range fun, really. Edit- my bad, it was colt, not S&W.

Why not a P-11 or p-40 if you like your kel-tec? Its almost the same as the p-9 but with a double stack mag, in either 9 or 40 caliber (harder to find the 40s but not impossible). I dont understand the 357 sig caliber. If you want a faster .40 caliber, why not just use a lighter bullet? The diameter difference is minor, so what you are really doing is pushing a smaller slug at a higher velocity.... which you can do in the .40 just as easily. According to ballistics by the inch, in a 3 inch barrel, the .40 with a 135 gr corbon is 1200 FPS, the 357 with a 125gr corbon is 1300 FPS. That difference is TINY given the 10 grain weight difference. The 40 caliber gives you the option of using slugs up to nearly 200 grains or very light slugs, either one. The 357 sig has a much smaller range of slug weights, and you can find lightweight slugs that move at a high velocity, but all in all they overlap nicely and you can make the .40 do the exact same thing for less cost. The 357 is probably more difficult to reload with that neck on it, the 40 is simple. While I admire the effort to replicate a 357 mag in an auto, the 9mm already does that with the high performance +p+ loads. The 10mm also can approximate a 357 mag. The reason a 357 mag seems so potent is most of the data on the web is from a long barrel revolver... compare by barrel length and several automatic rounds are very close to it. So, I say stick with the .40 or a quality 9mm that can handle the hot loads, and forget about sig and 10mm (10mm is nice but its pricy and hard to find hot loads for it). I carry a 40 because I couldnt find a 45 pocket pistol that I liked, while many small 9s can be found in .40 too. I like a heavier bullet and that is why I picked the 40 over a 9, no other reason.

Good for you. Honestly, coming from where you did (Hawaii), a major anti-gun state, you have a pretty good attitude toward the issues; it takes a while for that sort of environment to wear off. My gun is just part of my wardrobe, no matter where I am going, same as my pants. I don't get up each day, think about where I may or may not be going, then compute the odds of a terrorist or thug or whatever may be there shooting the place up, then decide if I need the gun or not. Its there, I dont think about it much, but I know its there if I need it. Are the odds in my favor that if I left it at home on days where I go to relatively safe places I would be ok? Yes, apparently so, as I havent had to shoot anyone yet and I don't go to rough areas. Do I like those odds well enough to not carry? Nope.

I was having this issue as well and like another said, cleanup fixed it for me. I ran ccleaner with just about everything checked to delete. The problem has not come back yet.

There are a number of old (and, maybe, new as I have not looked in a few years) NRA lever action guns for various things including some centinnel versions in .22 and 30-30 and possibly other calibers. Search the web and you may find a collectable one from years back or something? They are out there for sure...

The navigate away message usually is a trap from higher than average security settings. If you put IE into the "default" security it shoud not do that any more (not recommended) or you can find the individual setting to change (warn if navigate across domains or something like that).

sig p238 is more pricy but its one of the few non DAO options.

Performance is the key to whether I will hang around on a web site. This one is fine as is, faster is better. The flash/script/etc heavy pages that take more than 1 second to load drive me nuts. As long as the site is not slowed to a crawl you should do whatever you think is best; you are the one who must do the work after all. I am not super web-technical but I don't see why you have to shut down to migrate, though. Seems like the new software should just run as a low priority job in the background for a week, then switch it over once it has copied what it needs from the data store. If you must, shutting down for one day is no big deal, though I would try to not shut down on a weekend as activity seems to kick up for those. Even if shut down for a full week, it wouldnt be that big a deal, I think most users would rather have the best site possible even if it means a little down time once in a while.

Lots of ranges will rent you a gun, and lots of shooters will let you try theirs if you ask nicely. I am not aware of any place that does a specific caliber sampler but you could certainly try out a number of calibers at a number of places. I am not sure how I feel about this, to be honest, as the gun is half the package when it comes to the feel of a caliber. There are 9mms that kick me completely off target and others that do not recoil at all as an obvious example.

IMHO the AR is a fine starting rifle, a little expensive but that would be the only drawback. It has almost no recoil, is accurate, and perfect for starting out. You could start with a 10-22 or something to save a little money (more if she hates it and you never buy the AR), but there is nothing she could learn with a 22 LR that cannot be done with a 223 just as easily. Of course, every gun owner should have a 22 LR anyway, so if you do not, the money and effort will not be wasted.

If whatever you are using works, leave it alone. However, you probably shoot, what, 10 times a year at a deer? The price per slug is not going to matter in those quantities, even if they cost $5 each -- the extra expense is tiny over a deer season unless you bring in a LOT of game each year.

The same sign can be found in many restraunts that serve booze. You can ignore it, but do not drink while carrying a weapon (that is still a crime).