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Reloading 410


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I'm not sure how much you can actually save handloading these.

 

I handload a lot of handgun rounds and a fair amount of rifle rounds. The greatest savings for me is that we cast our handgun bullets and bulk purchase the rifle bullets.

 

I purchased a shotgun loading set up several years ago, but due to being able to purchase shells as inexpensively as I can, which is less of a cost than purchasing the components at the time, I never moved forward on it. It's there if I need it or start shooting a bunch of shotgun rounds...

 

I do realize .410 rounds/shells are pretty expensive right now, but if you plan to shoot a lot of them, it might be worth looking into purchasing the setup and learning how to load them.

 

Bulk/volume purchase is an option...if you can locate a supply.

 

Good luck with whatever your choice is.

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Handloading is like a lot of other ventures.  The start-up costs can bite, but after that the routine expenses can be very profitable.  My experience with 410 ammo involves a single shot toy with a 2 1/2" chamber.  I use 444 Marlin brass, specifically selected shot cups, over-shot cards, and get perfectly satisfactory loads for this small shotgun.  Makes one think about the solid brass black powder shotshell cases from many years ago.  Cases last forever due to the low pressure of the loads, but buying brass cases is not easy.  They are not cheap at all, if one can find them.  I happened to already have several to feed my lever rifle.  Lee used to sell their "hammer it together" kit for the 410, but now it is discontinued and expensive when found.  There are many options and possibilities, just explore the options.

 

Stumpy

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Stumpy points out something. A .444 sizer will size the head of the hull. You can buy a roll crimper from Ballistic products. Everything can be done by hand and in a drill press afterwards. I load .410 on occasion and do just that. Deprime with a pin and hammer on a peice of wood with a hole drilled in it. Resize. Prime on a solid piece of wood with a larger pin and hammer. Powder, wad, shot, over card and then roll crimp in a drill press.


By the way, you can buy PRIMED .410 hulls from Ballistic Products with no hazmat for cheap. They were on sale last month for less than $10 per hundred. They're usually almost twice that so keep a watch out. I bought 100 primed hulls, 250 stump wads and 500 over shot cards along with my roll crimper for like $60 and half that was the stupid roll crimping tool which will last forever.
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I too use the .444 Marlin cases for my 410. Works well and the cases never seem to wear out. Just a little more labor involved. I don't roll crimp mine. I just glue an over shot wad(cut out of a foam, disposable plate) with Elmers glue.



I wouldn't roll crimp a brass case either. That's 99% of the wear on the case and will lead to splits.

The roll crimper I mentioned is for plastic and paper hulls.
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On the topic of over-shot cards, if you will need only a few you can easily make your own.  Obtain a few 44 Special or 44 Magnum empty cases and chamfer the case mouth both inside and outside.  Get it as sharp as possible.  Find a piece of a 2X4 board, set it on your work bench, place your shot card material on the board and hammer the case mouth into the material.  Push one side of the card until it moves in the case, remove it with tweezers or a similar tool.  Not much to it.  Also, I use the Elmer's glue method that Westwindmike spoke about.  Works like a champ.

 

Stumpy

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Loading .410 can be very cost effective.  You should be able to load some standard-velocity type 1/2 ounce shells for $5/box or so.  If you find someone selling reclaimed shot or cast your own shot, it will be even cheaper.  Also, shotgun presses can be found for less.  I picked up a used MEC 600 Jr for $65.

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All this chatter about loading for the 410 has started me scratching my head and saying "what if"....  Factory 410 shells carry either 1/2 ounce or 7/16 ounce shot loads.  The 2 1/2 inch cases measure the same diameter and length as 444 Marlin brass.  The only difference between the Marlin case and 44 Magnum  (and 44 Special) brass is their length.  What If:  I had Speer shot cups for the 44 Mag / Spl cases, a small supply of revolver brass, and shot to load into the capsules.  Hmmmmmm.    I searched my components bin but did not feel like opening every container looking for shot capsules.  I did, however, find the next closest thing - a box of Speer shot capsules for 45 Colt.  I took one of these, loaded it with #9 shot and weighed the total, then deducted for the weight of the capsule and plug.  Turns out the shot charge is 3/8 ounce.  This is a modest load weight, but for tree rats it should get the job done.  If the shooter happens to load either of the revolver loads, and can get shot capsules, it's a doable project.  This is the lesson I bring to new, aspiring handloaders - versatility, economy, convenience, etc. etc.  All this reminds me of an old time saying:

 

Make it work.

Wear it out.

Make it do, or

Do without.

 

Enjoy your project.

 

Stumpy

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I'm not sure how much you can actually save handloading these.

 

I handload a lot of handgun rounds and a fair amount of rifle rounds. The greatest savings for me is that we cast our handgun bullets and bulk purchase the rifle bullets.

 

I purchased a shotgun loading set up several years ago, but due to being able to purchase shells as inexpensively as I can, which is less of a cost than purchasing the components at the time, I never moved forward on it. It's there if I need it or start shooting a bunch of shotgun rounds...

 

I do realize .410 rounds/shells are pretty expensive right now, but if you plan to shoot a lot of them, it might be worth looking into purchasing the setup and learning how to load them.

 

Bulk/volume purchase is an option...if you can locate a supply.

 

Good luck with whatever your choice is.

 

I figured that out when I started shooting 3 gun.  In 1999 we got 12 gauge for like a buck a box during dove season. Fast Forward to a few years ago and shot shells are as high as hangun ammo!

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