Dave Shooter

Colt still makes runs of bright nickel time to time. Is he set on bright chrome or will bright nickel or polished stainless suffice? Haven't built a spec sheet for a pimp gun.

Just checked Advantage Arms website. They are running a Special on the 1911 Commander version (not Target) for $175. Advantage Arms Secure Online Store: Discounted 1911-C

Bellville makes multiple models of boots for the military: for foot soldiers, steel toe, aircrew approved, winter weight, summer weight, etc. I've been issued black, tan, and green Bellvilles. All solid and held up well but not lightweight. Sorry, haven't tried the ones that are like athletic shoes.

Been drooling over their selection for awhile. couple of us plan road trip when we get back to States <month. Let me know if you want to go.

I've reloaded thousands and thousands of 45 cases with dents. Sizing die takes the dents right out. If it still bothers you, you could have ejection port lowered and flared as well adjust extractor and ejector.

I personally use Syntech 20-50 or whatever I get free at matches.

I believe CLP is intended to lessen the amount of stuff in the logistics chain. I think it's a little light in the lubrication department. I've seen both M-4s and M-9s that started clean and minimally lubed with CLP choke after less than 100 rounds. A few drops of dedicated lube got them running perfectly again.

At CMMG facility near Columbia MO weekend of 20 May. I'll be going, anybody want a ride/room? www.midewest3gun.com main page Was a blast when I shot it two years ago.

Another way to get rid of the .40 "bulge" is to use a Lee "U" sizer die, EGW sells them (or at least they did). These one thousandth smaller than standard and size all the way to the extractor groove. I've loaded glock brass using this die in my 550 and 1050 and the cases will literally chamber backwards in my match barrels. Saves you the trouble of an extra sizing step. Still a carbide die and lube is not required but it does make sizing easier. And no, I didn't open a black hole by screwing a Lee product into a Dillon one.

+1 There are two Kuhnausen books on 1911. A TON of information. Reading 'em won't turn you into a gunsmith but will give you a great appreciation for the design, JMB and the guys who make these things run.

Recommend you do not reassemble it with the combination of parts that caused the problem. ATF may take a dim view of unregistered full-auto, even if unintentional. When you do test fire recommend you do the old 1-2-3 drill. Load only one round, fire, and see if gun is "cocked" properly. Repeat 5 times, if all seems good load only two rounds and repeat the drill then go to three rounds.

One technique (from Brian Enos) is to wrap your very fine (600+) grit around a shell casing and then follow the original contour of the feed ramp, moving back and forth along the feed ramp toward the chamber (not rotary). Not trying to change the angle of the ramp, just eliminate higher areas that bullet nose could catch or slow down on. Work finer and finer as you see results. Good Luck!

How is the interchangeable backstrap on the little Glocks? When baby Glocks came out was excited but found out just did not fit my smallish hand at all. Fullsize is OK for me and G19 is best.

I got spoiled going to OGCA (Ohio Gun Collectors Assoc) yrs ago. Members only, way over 1000 tables, and it would take 3+hrs just to walk the tables without really spending a lot of time at any one. Just about any shooting accessory could be found if you were willing to dig around. Many serious collectors had their collections out working to upgrade them. Even if you weren't going to buy you could get an education. I believe Internet and catalog sales have cut way into accesories at gun shows. Likewise higher end dealers. Why drag expensive stuff around at current gas prices and risk them getting damaged/stolen when you can list them on Gunbroker at a high end fair price and have customers come to you?

HAPPY BIRTHDAY! to one of Mr. Brownings finest inventions. You can put me in the love 'em category.

When using a single stage press I use the "double shuffle". Grab a case from your supply between index finger and thumb, then pull sized case from shell holder with middle and index finger, insert case to be sized, drop sized case in clean box at your feet and grab another case while cycling press handle. Also works when using a hand priming tool.

An airtight ammo can will limit oxygen and thus oxidation. As previous post said avoid extremes of temperature and humidity. We shot an old assortment of military 45 ammo a while back. Headstamps were 1917 and 1928. Had two failures to fire out of 50 w 1928. The 1917 ammo all fired and cycled a 1911. Fired cases looked like swiss cheese. Current non-mercuric, non-corrosive priming ought to last without making cases brittle. The non tox, lead free primers seem to have poor shelf life; had some misfires w factory lead free 38 specials in stock gun. Ammo was only couple years old.

Concur with your assesment of the previous owner's loading methods probably taking some life out of extractor. How'd the rest of the detail strip go? Personally, I love learning how different guns come apart and go together. (Yes, I've launched a few springs.) I consider the stock 1911 one of the easiest to strip, you don't even need tools.

My wife went looking for a Father's Day gift the other year. Guys at gunshop convinced her to get me a 5.7. Surprised the heck out of me!! Definitely high in the different category. 20 round magazines. Shot some groups at 100 yards I could cover with my hand. Little recoil but some blast. About what I think a 22 Hornet would do in a stubby barrel. Thought about bolting a scope mount on via the rail just to see what it really is capable of accuracy wise. Still, I really consider it a well-made, expensive plinker.

DaveShooter, No doubt there are a number of us who look back and wish we'd kept a certain gun. I've traded away several that I now regret. My conversion unit seems to consistantly shoot more acurately than the Ace, but not by much. My sons and I have a great time plinking with them both. We do pretty good with cans but I'm not sure about squirrels! I'm not familier with the Advantage Arms unit but I am looking forward to hearing how it performs for you. Six weeks till I'm back in the states. Lots of shooting to do and so little summer!

If finances prevent another pocket gun you might consider something like a Supertuck holster for your baby Glock. If you go with the velcro option nothing will be visible when in slacks and dress shirt. You might see if you can borrow one to see if it meets your comfort/concealability needs.

Growing up dad had Colt complete .22 1911 but let it get away. Also had the conversion unit--the floating chamber was a bit of a pain to clean but a heck of a lot of fun. The conversion unit on a Series 70 was one of the few handguns my wife enjoyed shooting. Conversion unit was accurate enough to pop a few squirrels. Just ordered another conversion unit from Advantage Arms. They are running a sale, something about units needing internal machining after finishing. $225 factory direct seemed reasonable from what I've heard about them.

From personal experience, trying to stuff large pistol primer into that small pocket can be VERY exciting. A 1050 has lots of leverage...

http://www.saami.org/specifications_and_information/publications/download/205.pdf Very interesting stuff. They do have a +p standard for 9mm luger and 45 ACP, but only in 115 and 185 grain respectively. BTW, I use 2.8 grains Bullseye under a Berry plated bullet for 380 ACP. Had a Dillon powder measure set up that way for 38 Spc w 148 wadcutters. Has been totally reliable in my LCP.

230 FMJ Zero, 1.25 OAL TiteGroup 4.7 grains 780fps chrono'd 5in Colt, 4.6 grains in tight chambered Kart barrel gives same velocity Winchester LP (Fed primers gave 35 fps less velocity)