molonlabetn

If a more well-known shop isn't worth the drive, then ordering from Buds may be a good option, since there isn't a market around there to help you out. Just one of those things, I guess.

Was this the pawn-shop you went to?

Ah yes, I forgot about the RPG... ...truly the ultimate CQB weapon.

You want a gun which will feel comfortable in her hands, is both easy and safe to operate, and has low recoil... I'd recommend a fullsize XD 9mm, partially for the grip-safety feature (she won't have to remember a manual safety, but the action is disabled until she grips it). Honestly, it's either that, or a midsize .357/.38 revolver (Ruger GP-100 maybe). Next best option is a shotgun with low-recoil buckshot.

Can't really vote... When I carry it's rarely with an additional BUG, but I do carry a knife.

But there is an (arguably significant) difference in the individual attention given to each firearm... and that is what one pays for. Not saying that price is equivalent to the value-added (see my previous posts), but it does produce a measurable improvement in precision.

The key, here, is to not live in an area which might produce a large number of zombies... folks in urban areas are just screwed, I don't care what you're armed with, you won't have enough ammo or be able to fire it fast enough. The idea is to remove as much tissue from the attacker as possible. Screw hitting the CNS with a .224" bullet... I want to destroy a knee or hip so they can't run after me, or I want to nearly remove the whole head, because who cares if they're still flopping if they have nothing to see or bite with... Fire rate? Get a semi-auto. Capacity? You're choosing your battles poorly... avoid contact and get out of the blast zone (since the contaminated zone is sure-as-hell getting nuked). Me? The last shell I can manage onto the carrier is sending its load through my cerebellum anyways. Screw it. ...then again, who knows, maybe it'd be fun to eat brains... hmmmm... Naw, just do me a favor if that happens. No need to bother saying to me 'I told you so'.

Guns which are built from a bin of interchangeable parts have their advantages, but they simply won't have the precision of properly fitted, matched parts. Both have their proper applications... since it wouldn't make much sense to arm every LEO or soldier with a Wilson/Ed Brown/etc unless they could shoot them well enough in their application to take full advantage of them, when cheaper pistols will send lead downrange just as reliably (perhaps in some conditions, moreso), and you'll never notice the extra couple inches in group-size at 25yd, since they are firing under stress, anyways.

I won't be getting married again... not because I regret it (entirely the opposite), but because I know that it would be a billion-to-one to get that lucky again, and I just don't have the stomach to try. Best wishes.

The Remington 870 is the most popular. The Ithaca 37 is probably the more 'classic'.

Alot can be solved by simply being cordial and respectful... doesn't mean we have to bend over backwards or compromise, but patience and calmness while engaging the situation are a must.

Glad I didn't plant a garden this year, I'd have been forever watering it... The only tree of mine that is hurting is the willow, probably going to have to do surgery on it soon, and maybe install a soaker hose around it.

Maybe offer it to a trusted friend, and split the meat? Other option might be using a realtor... they might be an excellent go-between for managing a lease. I know that some agencies do this, for rental properties and the like... (though I have no knowledge of any specifically for hunting).

Zing!

The problem is, if you're just going around price-shopping, the guy behind the counter isn't going to gut the value of their wares just so you can go down the road and shop around. I've never paid anywhere even close to 20% more than Bud's for a gun which I made it clear I was committed to buying. I suspect that just walking into a shop and asking what the 'bottom doller' is on a gun, or looking at the tag, is sending the signal to the dealer that you aren't a serious buyer yet. Like I said, figure out what you want, first... then go talk to a dealer about working with you, with the intent to purchase the gun. They will recognize that, and will do whatever they can to sell it. Can't blame them for listing the gun for about what the manufacturer recommended as the MSRP... want a deal? Make an offer.

Actually, they can be beat... maybe not often by PRICE, but in every other aspect of serving their customers, there's alot they can't do from across the country. There's always somebody who is willing to sell something cheaper. And BGS does have good prices, for sure... but at some point the extra few bucks I'd spend locally would be remembered next time I need help or service which a volume retailer couldn't provide, and remember we're talking about a difference in cost along the lines of one meal at a resturaunt... The important part is finding which gun works best for you, and find a source which can put your hands on some of the choices and can answer some of these questions you've been asking. You're not going to get both (or either one) of those from a volume retailer/distributor over a thousand miles away. I'll forgo eating out once or twice every so often, gladly, to offset the cost of personal service for a larger purchase. Just something to think about... but, by all means, if you know for sure what you want. Can't really argue with saving some money, if that's the priority.

If you want them, go for it... but at the ranges a laser might be effective, on a pistol, one would get far more benefit from practice. A mounted light would be a little more useful.

If it won't pass thru the average house-cat, how could it possibly be effective on a human?

Glad to have ya'!

...but he didn't say which summer he was talking about...

That's not even 50rd of .50 BMG... nowhere near enough!

They make 15rd 'esstended' single-stack 'clips' too, those are narrow Stick a couple of those in a back pocket, and carry the gun with an 8-rounder in it (or just carry with a horizontal shoulder holster, to keep the long mag concealed)

That should be the action lock hammer spring: http://www.e-gunparts.com/product.asp?chrProductSKU=54850A But if it's getting weak, might was well put in a disconnecter spring too: http://www.e-gunparts.com/product.asp?chrProductSKU=54880A Might be worth polishing the front surface of the lock bar, as well, and perhaps where it contacts the rear of the bolt-carrier too, just to make sure it's not simply sticking engaged due to a rough surface. Also, check it for straightness.

RIA makes a double-stack 1911... 13+1, about the same price as one of their standard models.

The best sign would be: "Leave your loaded weapon holstered, and I will too."