samson7x

I have many times and his .45 softer bullets work great and are inexpensive.  The only "issue" I've had was when he charged my card like 2 months after I placed the order.  I received the bullets in 2 weeks and thought all was well (didn't notice that he hadn't charged me yet for whatever reason) but I got hit with a charge about 2 months later.  This wasn't that big a deal to me but just seemed odd. 

    Just stubled upon these for you: http://www.kesselrings.com/servlet/-strse-4486/smith-%26-wesson%2Csmith-%26/Detail   Looks like they are in stock.  I don't have any experience with that company but it I'd give them a shot if I were you.

  Thanks, I'll do the same for you.  I need one but I'd buy 2 or 3 if you find that many.

  Unfortunately the panic buyers have put us in a difficult place.

Anyone have a lead on M&P 9mm 17rd magazines?  I need a few for IDPA and every website I've checked is out of stock.  Local dealers are out of stock as well.  I don't feel like paying $100 bucks on gunbroker either.  I have cash or can trade PMAGs if any of you guys want to part with one or two.     

I vote Ruger 10/22.  You can get the base model for around $220.

Pocket carry with CM9 is doable, but I find it a tad heavy and slightly large.  My brother has an SR9c and the cm9 is much smaller with only slightly more noticeable recoil.  For true pocket carry I would look to an LCP.

  +1

I like it.  Great work...

      Same here.  I just bought another lower for a 458 build. 

Spikes tactical also makes one. http://www.spikestactical.com/new/z/lower-parts-pistol-buffer-tube-cover-foam-p-917.html

[quote name='RWF' timestamp='1354846916' post='856209'] sorry i do not remember the brand but the wife and got to shoot one that had all the suppresser body below the standard 1911 sights. looked funny at first but after shooting it loved it. and it was a dry can. [/quote] Sounds like you shot an Osprey...

It took me a while to get a Pro as well...those things are fairly hard to find! Mine had a gritty, nasty trigger at first also. If you have a few gunsmithing tools it isn't hard to improve it quite a bit. All you need is some stones, sandpaper, and a polishing wheel to smooth things up and change the angle slightly on the sear. Look up Burwell trigger job and the work is outlined in PPT format. As stated above, the more expensive option is to go with APEX parts. I installed the competition kit on my first M&P and it has an amazing trigger. However, you can closely mimic the kit following the Burwell trigger ppt. As a side note, the pro also makes a fantastic suppressor host should you be interested in adding one. It has functioned flawlessly with my TiRant suppressor and sounds amazing.

[quote name='Dolomite_supafly' timestamp='1354504186' post='854056'] [indent=1]Prep is everything for a quality end result. I have used Gunkote, not Cerakote, dozens of times and has turned out great. Because just like anything else the work you put in prior to applying the finish will determine how well it comes out.[/indent] [indent=1] If you have a compressor, even a small one, you can buy small hand held media blasters for less than $15 at Harbor Freight or Northern Tool. If not most automotive shops have blast cabinets and would probably let you use it for either a small fee or free if they think what you are doing is interesting. If all else fails then you can use sand paper to roughen the surface. It is not ideal but it will work. Use gloves, respirator (not a particle mask) and safety glasses when working with everything. To keep your skin oils off the parts as well as keep potentially harmful stuff off of you, out of your lungs and out of your eyes. When you start boiling the solution go ahead and preheat the oven to the required temp. I normally run it at 200 degrees when I am using Gunkote. [b]Here is what I do:[/b] Disassemble the parts to be coated as completely as you can Clean and degrease all the parts the best you can using non-chorinated brake cleaner Media blast or sand all the parts to be coated (I used medium aluminum oxide from Northern Tool) Bring a pot of 1/2 gallon distilled water and 1/2 gallon Simple Green to near boil As the bubbles start to form remove from heat, letting it sit for a minute or so to allow the temp to equalize Place the parts to be coated in the Simple Green solution and let it sit for about 15 minutes [color=red][b]***Do not breath the steam***[/b][/color] Stir the parts occasionally to help break any oils loose At the same time start boiling some distilled water and turn your oven on its lowest setting When it starts to boil remove from heat, letting it sit for a minute or so to allow the temp to equalize Remove the parts from the Simple Green solution and place in the distilled water for another 15 minutes [color=red][b]***Do not breath the steam***[/b][/color] Remove the parts from the water and place them in the oven long enough for all the water to evaporate Remove the parts [b]one[/b] at a time, not all at the same time, and coat them according to the instructions*[/indent] *If you remove them all at the same time and the first ones will be warmer than the last ones causing them to look different This is the down and dirty way I have done it for the last few years and works great. I have only done handguns and small parts but I have went thru at least 4 cans of Gunkote so far. If you have any quesitons feel free to ask. The prep is going to be the same regardless of the coating used, be it Cerakote, Gunkote, Durakote or even Krylon. Even spary on paints like Krylon are very durable once the proper prep is done and it is baked on. Dolomite [/quote] Thanks for the detailed reply Dolomite...seems like you have helped me on every question Ive asked here. I owe you a beer or something . What advantage does gunkote offer over cerakote? Or why did you choose it? I've always heard that for durability (in the spray finish category), cerakote was the way to go.

[quote name='Runco' timestamp='1354501555' post='854023'] I used only 120 alum oxide, however I had to do some repeats for some dumb mistakes on my side. Someone suggested using a softer media either walnut or some type of plastic/glass. I found ebay to be the best on pricing for all medias including aluminum oxide. You can adjust the air pressure to tone down the media impact if you are using aluminum oxide. BTW don't worry about the cabinet, do it the red neck way, either use a 5 gallon bucket or used a large cardboard box. The goal is to capture for reuse of media, unless you have money to burn or just don't want to clean up. Do wear the safety stuff, face shield, filter mask, gloves, etc. It was a blast. If you want a laugh or have insomia, read my post from my 1st gun coating experience earlier this year: [url="http://www.tngunowners.com/forums/topic/47369-my-gunkote-tale-a-tale-of-priceless-wisdom-kids-in-the-garage/"]http://www.tngunowne...-in-the-garage/[/url] [/quote] That is a fantastic story...quite the experience you had. I plan on wearing the proper attire and I dont have much money to burn so I'll try the 5 gal bucket trick you suggest. Have you coated anymore guns since then?

I have finished a 1911 build and figured I should just go ahead and apply cerakote to top it off. Why pay someone else to do it when I can say I did it myself, right? I have access to a blaster (no cabinet unfortunately) and will begin gathering materials soon. Can someone talk me through the process? Basically you degrease, blast, degrease, preheat, apply, then bake correct? I was told to use 120 grit aluminum oxide as blast media but brownells sells ex-coarse, coarse, and fine. Which closely mimics the 120 grit? Or do you suggest another source for the media? I will be going with graphite black and want a satin finish. Which ratio of material/hardener should I use? Thanks for the help. Ill update when I finish this project.

I started a thread for sling recommendations and the TGO voice was heard and I ordered the MS3 as suggested by the majority. I am happy with that purchase so here I am again in search of weapon light suggestions. I don't really have any specific requirements, but I would like to keep the price as reasonable as possible and I want a light that is as bright as possible. I generally look at the lumen rating as a good guide but this may not be the best method. Thanks in advance.

My brother shoots a T/C and was having the same problems with pellets @ 150gr. He dropped down to 100 and it is as accurate as can be now.

[quote name='tbone' timestamp='1352769865' post='844583'] Thanks for sharing. I had not considered the Gemtech. However, I am really wanting to keep it dry, and that is kind of steering me away from the Gemtech. I had not considered the Ti-rant. I will give it a look also. Here is the second part of the question. Where is the best place to get sights, (for either the M&P 45 or 1911)? Also, any expierence with the best place to get threaded barrels? I have heard good things about Bar-Sto, what about Storm Lake? Are there other sources that some of you have been satisfied with? Thanks in advance. [/quote] I use Storm Lake and got mine at cheaper than dirt. I got my other SL barrel off a forum because it is pretty difficult to find a Pro size threaded barrel. Not sure about the sights because Im just running factory. You adapt and learn to shoot "through" the suppressor so Im in no rush to buy higher sights.

I personally own and can recommend the TiRant 45. The new model is user serviceable and it offers fantastic suppression on both 45 and 9mm hosts. I run it on an M&P 45 and an M&P pro 9mm.

[quote name='peejman' timestamp='1352378759' post='841710'] What Dolomite said. Chemistry can be a tricky thing. Why not just use a pressure washer? [/quote] I never was very good at chemistry....organic II was almost the death of me. Pressure washer might be difficult. The logistics of that operation might prove to be challenging.

[quote name='drv2fst' timestamp='1352338847' post='841539'] Some manufacture recommended that you clean your suppressor every time you clean the muffler on your car. Still, I'd love to hear any good cleaning suggestions as well. I don't like keeping them dirty. There was some other "dip" recommended on here a long time ago. I think it contained mineral spirits and automatic transmission fluid and something else. I think it was called "Ed's Red" or something like that. [/quote] Seems like I remember seeing "Ed's Red" as well. Anyone used this combination to clean aluminum baffles? How effective was it? [quote name='Dolomite_supafly' timestamp='1352342771' post='841582'] And it releases[b] [/b][u][b]lead acetate[/b][/u], a very dangerous chemicaol that seeps into the groundwater. It also crosses the blood brain barrier and is one of the mst cancer causing agents known to man. As far as cleaning I owuld not worry about it unless you notice a substantial increase in report. Dolomtie [/quote] Yes, I had also read about lead acetate and potential health hazards. I paid so much dang money for this thing it just seems like I should keep it clean, ya know? I suppose since I won't be shooting lead through it, it'll be alright.

It is a 50/50 solution of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide.

Well I've put several hundred rounds through my TiRant 45 now and I broke it down to clean it as best I could but I would like to know how you guys clean aluminum baffles. I know "the dip" will eat aluminum and some people recommend using a soda blast cabinet. Others recommend just cleaning the piston system and leave the baffles alone. I don't have a blast cabinet but I may eventually invest in one if that is the best option, but I would like to hear some alternatives first. Thanks gentlemen.

I've almost finished building my 9mm AR pistol. It functions great, I just want to add a few more things like Magpul angled grip, the RSA for sling attachment and buffer pad. They are almost the same to build, but I used a dedicated CMMG lower and ramped bolt to allow for standard LPK. Mine utilizes a 5" barrel and 7" quad for the recessed suppressor look. I'll post a pic when I get home. I can tell you that it is a blast to shoot and I'm glad I took the time/money to build it. However, I will be applying for my form1 to SBR it in the near future. I built it in this configuration so I could play until my paperwork comes back from ATF.