Luke E.

   I saw a site running a deal on Frontier poly lowers and they had them for $89 with LPK installed! All it needed to be a complete lower was stock, buffer tube, buffer and spring. You'd have to stay up all night to beat that. I'll look back tomorrow and try to find the site but it has been a few months back

   I would personally steer clear of a 2 stage trigger regardless of price especially for an AR unless you are building a precision rifle or just plan to shoot from a bench all the time with it. That's just my opinion and while i'm handing it out for free i'll go ahead and say that I personally wouldn't even by a 2 stage for a precision rifle build. For an AR with a normal life ahead of it a fairly light (3.5-4.5lb) pull with a clean and crisp break will serve you best. Take a look at JP's offerings, you and get their spring set to replace the springs in a mil-spec pack and have a decent trigger or for not much more you can buy their whole set up minus the speed hammer which you don't have to run, and have a great trigger in my opinion! I would like to eventually switch all of mine over.

   Just found it on sale for $749. Seems way cheaper than anywhere else i've seen for the same scope. Are there different versions of this scope out there by chance?   EDIT- Never mind, I just answered my own question. Just realized that they offer FFP and SFP variants.

   Search it on Amazon. There will be several offerings and some will have Gadsden on one side and a US Flag or 300blk, 5.56 or whatever caliber on the other. Some will be much cheaper than others but watch out for the shipping.

       I think Robert was meaning that if you are going to sell something that you should pay the $35 benefactor fee and post any items for sale in the classifieds section.

 Money is just money and this man is owed A LOT of it from several different SOB's and and hospital and PD but what he really is owed is the chance to absolutely RUIN the lives of everyone involved! Hopefully this man will make enough suing insurance companies that he can allot a goodly sum towards making sure that everyone of the SOB's struggle to make enough to eat and are looked at like dogs by everyone that they pass by for the rest of their lives! Simply losing a medical license or badge is not even close to enough. If this were me and they had some how not met their demise before this happened I would make it my life's mission to make sure that no matter where these people moved trying to get a "fresh Start" I would be there to ruin it and let any future employers know every detail and if necessary, pay them to not hire them.   I'm gonna go ahead and cut this off now before I decide to head straight to this man to help him do all these things. Absolutely despicable!

Gotcha.

   Oh okay....... :ugh:

  http://www.surplusammo.com/complete-uppers/?sort=priceasc   I get a specials email from them every couple weeks and I'm almost certain I saw a complete upper for $375 in one of them but here's their regular prices. PSA usually has some pretty good deals on things like this as well.

   I saw about four 8lb jugs of Unique at Outpost on Saturday afternoon.     Sorry I just noticed someone had already mentioned this.

   Do you know who all cuts chambers to Sammi specs? Or I guess more importantly have you figured out whose barrels to steer clear of? 

Looks like a good start. You're gonna have all the parts before you get the receivers!

   I think you're right, I have looked around and kept my eye out for a "low profile" forward assist and haven't seen anything yet. It shouldn't be a big deal to take your standard forward assist to someone with a lathe and have them turn the shoulder and contact surface lines off of it. Do that and slap a coat of paint of your choice of color and call it good.

Ammo cans weren't the only items that underwent a price change but that's another topic. One thing that I have been thinking of doing with my ammo cans is to sandblast and paint them. I keep everything from prepped and unprepped brass to primers to projectiles etc.,. I've put labels on the tops but the way I have them stacked and stored, I end up having to dig out a bunch that I didn't need because I can't always see the label. So my idea has been to paint primer cans FDE and projectile cans foliage green or what have you just to separate one from the other. Of course those project isn't at the top of my project list so we'll see how long this takes.

I haven't seen anything about these barrels but maybe Mike has?

The last 4 gun shows I've been to I've seen used ones for $15 and I don't recall seeing any cheaper than that. There are a couple guys in the mid state area that were pricining them at $15 on Saturday and $10 on Saturday. Outpost Armory in Murfreesboro went INSANE on their ammo cans after Sandy Hook! They used to have them priced at $7-$8 for 30-50cal cans and last time I looked the 30cal were $15 or so and the 50cal were like $20. These are used cans btw. As much as it pains me to give $15 each for them, anything else comparable will be the same or more. Just check the gaskets when selecting used cans. If the metal is fairly straight and the gasket is good it really doesn't matter to me whether it's new or used because with a quick light sanding and a couple thin coats of spray paint all are pretty much equal. I was fortunate to notice a friend had quite a few empty ones in his shop that had been sitting untouched for a really long time and he just gave me almost all of them.

  Exactly. I'm not gonna lie though, I've been looking at the Nickel Boron coated carriers for this build just because that little extra slickness (if there is any) could make a difference once the bullets gets some distance between the rifle and itself bolt i'm still not sure that it's worth the money.

   If I were a betting man i'd say that BCM's practice of installing and test firing has just as much if not more to do with cutting down on returns due to "faulty" BCG's and the costs involved as it does anything else and I definitely have nothing wrong with that and even think it's a great idea. There are several reasons for a rifle that an individual builds, not to cycle but for the 1st time builder the BCG will be the likely suspect to them a very high percentage of the time at which time they will call BCM and cry about their "faulty" BCG and send it back as well as expect a new one to arrive in the mail only to install it and the gun still not cycle. My theory could be completely wrong but i'd say with them being a smart and successful company they like test firing each one that way they have a leg to stand on when they explain to the customer that the problem must be somewhere else because we test fired yours and it is good to go. It doesn't hurt that by making sure they don't let a dud slip through by test firing them 1st gives nets them a strong name. I completely agree with you though, if they are paying a man to install each one, fire it, uninstall and clean it up as well as the ammo cost, they aren't going to let that money come out of their end, they are going to pass it on to the consumer with the end result being as Mike said... Higher price.      Again, I don't know for a fact nor have I done enough research to even suspect that PSA's BCG is any less quality than BCM's. What I do know from experience with contracting out parts manufacturing is that just because multiple companies contract the same manufacturer to make the "same" product for them does NOT mean that you are going to get the exact same quality from each company. PSA may be selling the identical part that BCM is and If their prices are pretty well in line then i'd say there is a good chance that is so but if BCM is charging $200 for theirs and PSA is charging $100 then there is a really good chance they are not all created equal. I have no idea what either of them charges so I just pulled those number out of my backside.  But to answer your question, All BCG's should be built to the same dimensions since they all have to work in the same upper receivers but if one company were to go with a cheaper treating process or cheaper coating or coating process, there is no way you could tell by holding them and looking them over much less looking at a website's stock photos. The rule I play by personally is, if the difference in processes is potentially a deal breaker for me buying the cheaper of two items then I go with the one from the company I am sure about.  But like Mike said, we are all running semi auto rifles and are not in situations that require us to run through thousands of rounds between cleanings so I wouldn't think the corners that could possibly be cut on a BCG we be anything that we as civilians should be all that worried about. The cyclic rates on semi autos being more dependent on the speed of our trigger fingers than the heat or coating on the bolt carrier I'd say go with the cheaper quality part. If there is a large price difference, ask yourself why that could be and if you think you can live with the worst of those reasons then go with the cheaper but if it is unacceptable then go with the pricier.

I sort of figured a post like this would pop up. And I'd say what you read about the issue is more accurate than the op.

   I've got that rail on my 300AAC and have been pleased with it so far. I'm not a big quad rail fan but at the sale price I found I figured I could deal with it and have had zero issues with it.

Are you drumming up people to sign a petition? make calls on your behalf? I'm not at all saying that your side isn't the whole story but is there anywhere to get more info?    P.S. an introduction goes a long ways here.

   Well not to be the bearer of bad news but they really don't break down into manual pieces. Also some of those machines don't have real good parts availability so one would have to know a fair bit machining skills to make the parts themselves.   This was told to me and I will pass it along, machines are like gun safes, buy twice what you think you need. Point being, if you buy one to machine lowers on you will soon want to do something twice the size of an AR lower. There is a point of no return though and that could very easily be the point at which you can't move it into your shop. I've always been pretty good about getting things into places that they shouldn't fit so if you need a hand just let me know.

   I guess i'm just envisioning a huge unwieldy rifle with a 24" barrel. I'm having to really keep reminding myself that this one is not going to be for slinging around and dragging through dirt and the such so I guess a lil' extra barrel and weight won't be a crime. 

To be completely honest, I'd have to dig out my manuals or go out to my shop on the family's land to look and see what size they are. I bought them 2yrs ago and they've been in storage every since. They are pretty heavy though, 4 guys could carry the lathe but the mill would be the tough one. It is a fairly large bench top mill but the bench had sure better be heavy duty. As far as moving it with man power goes, I'm not sure how that would work. I don't think there is enough places to grab to get enough men involved to get the job done. I've got one of the extending forklifts so I just eased them off of the trailer and poked them through the door and the I used a heavy duty engine hoist to move them into place. Even with the forklift it was a lot of "fun". I probably would have gone with older American made machines but these were presented to me at a cheap price and they maybe had 15-20hrs use split between the two of them so it was hard to pass up. They came with quite a bit of extras to so that just helped the deal along. One thing I will pass on to you is this, when I started looking, I went and chatted with a friend of mine that runs a fairly large machine shop about what I wanted. At the time I was stuck on old American made unit because like you said, they can be found reasonable up north. He told me that most any of them that a company, even if they are out of business, would be trying to sell for cheap are probably very worn or else someone much closer to them would have bought them. Some of the nicer more well kept machines I looked at with him were the most worn. Not worn from abuse but just normal heavy use. This was one reason I decide to go with new or almost new import machines that way I at least knew what I was getting. I've haven't had the chance to use them yet so I can't comment on whether that was the right decision or not but that's where I ended up.

How much does it fall off if you drop to an 18" or 19"?