glockster157

I have to agree with Mike Gideon. I had a Chrony Beta Master(gotta really watch how you say that!) and it had the remote but to me seemed hard to operate and was a bother to set up. I picked up a CE ProChrono and I was amazed how simple and easy it was. I leave it on a spare tripod and just throw it out there to test loads. No real setup required. It is limited to 9 strings and you have to work it manually but I do not find this to be a problem 10 feet from the bench.

I have to admit to hating Glocks up until I opened a indoor pistol range back in 1997. After shooting enough of them they kinda grow on you. Gun "A" has this problem, gun "B" has that problem while the Glocks just roll on. I was 35 also when I discovered how wrong I was about Combat Tupperware.

I think it was Masaad Ayoob that said his idea of a $3000 45 was a Glock 30 in the glove box of a $2500 VW Beetle.

When I carry with a holster I keep a round in the chamber and use a holster that covers the trigger. When I pocket carry or use a belt clip, I keep a round in the chamber and use a trigger block. Saf-T-Blok Safety / Protection saf-t-blok®, left handed, fits all-topglock.com Some don't like them but I have tested mine and it pops out every time I put my finger inside the trigger guard but there is no way that something, shirt, pencil, whatever, can pull the trigger with it in place. I know, most will say that couldn't happen anyways....and you would probably be right. But stranger things have happened. As longs as it doesn't hurt, I am going to use it. On my G27, which would be the one I use in the pocket or with the belt clip, I also use a NY1 trigger. I figure if I ever have to use it, it will be up close and personal so I want to make sure I don't accidentally pull the trigger from the adrenaline rush that will most likely be taking place.

Sometimes Midsouth has some decent prices. They are located at exit 11 on I 24 west on the south side of Clarksville. They are a wholesaler but they will sell to the public but yo have to call it in first. Midsouth Shooters Supply, Reloading, Air Guns, Optics, Muzzleloaders & Shooting Supplies

I use Ed's Red also but since I don't do shotguns and I don't have any wad fouling to deal with I leave out the acetone. Plus, I don't like the strong smell. I used Eds when I want to do a lot of cleaning of gunk and carbon fouling build up. I horse trade quite a bit and some of the guns I have picked up are a real mess. I go after them with Eds and a tooth brush and it cuts all that junk right out of them. I also use Wally world brake cleaner to wash down metal when I want to completely degrease parts. Same thing as Gun Scrubber for half the price. I use Break Free foaming bore cleaner every couple of cleanings, as it appears to really get the copper out of the bore. For daily lubing I still use Break Free CLP. But as stated, for $12 bucks, Eds is a grreat bulk cleaner. BTW, I tried the copper version with Ammonia and Murphys soap....sucks, wouldn't stay mixed and didn't work well, don't waste your time.

When I had a G33 I was shooting Speer Gold Dots. If memory serves, I was getting around 1300ish out of that short barrel. I had a CZ75B in 9mm, longer barrel, and Winchester Ranger +P+ 127 grain(the older black coated ones) and they chronographed at 1225. I did not have a G26 to compare it too and the CZ had about a 1.5" barrel advantage. But all things considered, I still use the Winchester Ranger +P+ in my 9mm's.

I had been thru most Glock models before I picked up my first G34. I gotta say that if I knew how well a G34 would shoot I would have bought one a lot sooner. It has become my favorite shooter/plinker in 9mm. Even the G19 stays in the safe. I think you will like it once you get used to the change.

What bullet weight and powder charge? If you have a light load and really low pressure, some gas and powder will come back at you from the chamber. Are the cases really dirty, carbon fouled at the mouth? If so, up the charge a little at a time, staying within book data(the books have really lowered the max charges over the years though) and use that strong taper crimp. I will usually increase a charge until I get a clean case, slightly flattened primer and close to book listed velocity. I once had to go 1.5 grains over AA's book data with #7 to even get close to their published data. Also, I agree with Leroy on his Unique data. One of my favorite all time loads is 5.2 grains, 158 lead SWC, 38spl case, WW primer. This is a +P load and comes straight from the Lyman 46th edition manual. Now the 48th edition list 4.7 as the +P max load but my chronograph doesn't bare that out. Neither does the round primer, dirty case (from lack of pressure) and low velocity. BTW, I have never shoot this load in anything but 357 revolvers.

Could that be the Rosie O'Donnell of firearms? Nah, no gun is that ugly! I was going to suggest Gun Scrubber(or Walmart Brake Cleaner) but I would be afraid the thing might melt. Hoppes and a tooth brush followed by a good going over with WD40 then oil. He'll think it is brand new.

I wouldn't worry about the barrel as most 22's are soft lead anyways. Get a Yo Dave trigger kit from rimfire central, try some Wolf Match target, Eley, SK Jag, etc and see what shoots best. Most of mine would tack drive at 25 and the Silhouette I have right now will do it at 50 if the wind is calm.

This should tell you date of manufacture Ruger Instruction Manuals & Product History

+1 on the G19...or a G26(you can use G19 mags with extensions). My main reason is utter reliability but there are other good reasons including accessories, cheaper practice ammo, durability. With ammo such as Winchesters Ranger +P+ 127 grain load, it is more than sufficient in power also, even compared with the 40 and 45. The long trigger pull on the Kahr is not as big a problem as the long trigger reset. Whenever I try to shoot one quickly I have a hard time letting the trigger return all the way forward. The Ruger I have no experience with.

Problems I have encountered over the last 30+ years with different 1911's have been bad magazines, rough feed ramps, a lot of poorly fitted or bad parts, along with failures to feed/eject which equals a lot of jams. In comparison, the number of problems of these types I have experienced with Glocks-0, Berettas-0, Sigs-0, SW 3rd Gens-0, HK USP's-0. I have not had has many SA XD's but the few I had have 100% except some with SWC lead bullets, they don't seem to like those. Still, I like 1911's, I like tinkering with 1911's, I just don't excuse 1911's. When I say 100%, I mean 100%, no excuses, no break-in, no bad mags, no bad ammo or ammo style excuses....I want my guns to work. There are more 1911's in my future. Just not sure which ones right now.

I couldn't get the link to work but I can say I have had very few 1911's that I felt were reliable enough to really stake my life on. Most of the more reliable ones were plain jane loose ones with good all hardball. A lot can be blamed on magazines, I have had much better reliability out of quality standard 7 round mags. I know a lot of guys are going to jump in and say I am wrong...or crazy, but I have had dozens of 1911's, including Colts, Kimbers, Springfields, Para's, parts guns, Charles Dalys and Rock Island. I had as good of service out of the Rock Islands as I did the expensive ones. My last Charles Daly loaded would not even feed a round from the factory mag into the chamber when it was new out of the box. The rear sight fell off my last brand new Colt SS Commander, the rivets came out of the spring plunger housing on my new early model new Kimber Lightweight Pro Carry....I could keep going. It is no wonder Why Glocks and Sigs are so popular. At least with me. I also love my SW 4563 Tactical that has never malfunctions once in the 5 years I have had it.

I purchased a Lone Wolf 9mm conversion barrel for my G27 so that I could shoot 9mm lead bullets. It worked fine and I had no trouble. I wound up selling it because I quit using it, just getting lazy in my old age. It is nicer to have 2 different pistols and if you are not shooting lead, I would go that way. But if you are looking to load cheap or buy cheaper lead reloads I think you would be better off with the conversion.

Update: Just read the last couple posts and didn't read the original, at least not recently. I see you have 4 load manuals and are trying to shortcut. I am deleting all the "advice" I posted as it may be taken wrong. Sorry.

Completely unnecessary, with a brush you just don't want to change the direction of the brush inside the barrel. For slotted tips it is proper to push the rod and tip thru, put on a patch, then pull it thru. I see a lot of guys use a slotted tip like a jag or a mop. A jag is best, just push thru one direction and take it off when it comes out the other. I am anal about wiping the rod between passes, not sure that it is really needed but I like to do it. I used to use all coated rods but I am switching to all stainless. I am afraid after all those passes that grit may be embedded in the plastic coating and do more harm than good.

A chalkboard would be handy...anybody have access to a school room or a Sunday class?

I'm still up to teaching a class, We need a place to meet and some people who want to attend. Just to get started we could work directly from reloading manuals. Ya'll just let me know. I am stretched a little for time right now but I can find a evening free other than Wed or Fridays.

Something I have been doing is taking the crimping stem and sleeve out of my Lee Carbide factory sizing die and pushing the 40SW cases completely thru the die with stem from a Lee bullet sizer kit. Sounds complicated but it is really easy. As a matter of interest, I got the idea from Lee as they are promoting a kit that does this. Found a PDF on the kit, it is hard to find on there website. http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/1855.pdf

I would get a Lyman Manual as it is more universal and also covers hard cast bullets as well. It is larger and has clear instructions also. My second choice would be Lee's. As to dies, I like RCBS but Lee is a great value and I cannot argue against them. I use a lot of them myself by I also have RCBS in most calibers. I am not a drinker so I don't recommend alcohol, but buying a set of 327 federal dies and keeping him in ammo for a while might be nice. Not sure what you meant by "not reloadable" but the 327 is quite loadable.

I recommend everyone keep a list of SN's at home and off site also. I keep a spreadsheet and update it regularly. And after I make changes I email it to myself and download it on my work PC. Even if you just email it to yourself regularly, you can leave a copy on the server.

I thought they might be computer created graphic images also so I downloaded a JPEG and zoomed in to it. It was about a 3 meg file and was quite large, I believe 3700x3700 or so. It had really good clarity. I may be wrong but the slide, hammer and screws showed machining marks while the other parts showed casting pits. If it is a CGI, it is a very good one.

The picture posted on the web page may be just a mock up. The frame, trigger, grip safety and frame safety were very pebbled. If they are going to be forged this this may just be a cast prop for promo purposes.